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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I pulled the tractor out of the barn yesterday to do some loader work since it was so nice outside yesterday. I pulled up to the house and was working on cleaning out the garage. I kept hearing this chirping noise by the dash of the tractor. With all the birds that are out I didn’t think much about it for the first couple times. Then I was on the other side of the tractor and the noise was t behind me, it was in the tractor. So here comes the disassembly, I started with popping the hood, and the side panels. Nothing there so I kept going. I did discover how easy the piece comes off from around the dash which was a nice surprise, but then I found the source of the noise I was hearing, a mouse nest. I removed the nest and found one set of wires chewed up pretty bad (I did not notice anything not operating as it should on the dash). I’ll attach a picture of the harness they destroyed. What do you guys recommend for fixing it?
 

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Looks like they just about chewed enough to break some wires.

Mice are a constant battle around here. I’ve had nests in my tractor but no damage...yet....

My wife’s VW - they chewed a vent line on top of the fuel tank - leaks if you fill the tank which I always do. It’s a major job to drop the tank to repair as the rear axle beam has to be dropped also....
 

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I really hate those little suckers! My first thought is to replace the whole harness, except for the fact that it’s a main harness and probably runs from front to back of the tractor and I’m sure it’s pretty expensive from Deere.
 

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It appears that none of the wires are actually compromised. I’d check each one to make sure, then wrap each one in electrical tape and replace the wire loom.

The key to not having mouse nests is never to let the machine sit for too long. I run mine every few days. Mice know when something hasn’t moved in a week or more and they consider it safe to nest in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you have any experience with the liquid electrical tape? Would I be able to “paint” that stuff on and put new loom over it?
 
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It appears that none of the wires are actually compromised. I’d check each one to make sure, then wrap each one in electrical tape and replace the wire loom.

The key to not having mouse nests is never to let the machine sit for too long. I run mine every few days. Mice know when something hasn’t moved in a week or more and they consider it safe to nest in.
Electrical tape won’t be enough to seal out moisture. Any moisture will cause corrosion. Just being humid can get the process started.

Be better to spice with waterproof splice or as someone stated earlier replace the harness. As much as it would suck to have to spend that kind of cash, that is what I would do if that was my 2038r.
 

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Heatshrink tubing makes a clean repair. Black tape turns into gooey mess with time. You will have to to cut the wire to slide the heat shrink over it or release the contact from the plug shell to do so.

I guess that is a plus for living in MN. We don't have too many issues like that with equipment. I guess the cold temps and high taxes keep the mice away.....
 

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Looks like 4 wires damaged, 2 single wires and a yellow and green twisted pair. I would cut the convoluted tubing off at the base of where the mice chewed, removing the entire damaged section. Then I would de- pin those 4 wires from the connector, you might need a special tool for that specific connector. You will need to find the connector part number on the body of the connector to figure out which tool you will need, or have a go at it with mechanics picks if you can see how the contacts are retained. Get yourself the correct size marine heat shrink. Marine is important as it has a silicon inside that creates a waterproof seal once it is shrunk. Untwist the twisted pair and use a separate piece of heat shrink on each wire, so 4 pieces total. Retwist the twisted pair once they are sealed, you might need zip ties to hold the repaired section together. Re-pin the connector and replace the convoluted tubing that was removed with new, using electrical tape to bond it to the existing tubing.
 

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DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NOW!!!

I think I would try the liquid electrical tape for sure.

Here is a short video of it after a 5 minute cure. I wonder how flexible it is after full cure but you probably don't need a lot of flex in that area.



I hate them meeces to pieces! Had one that kept chewing through my fuel return line on my backhoe. Little buggar got the same hose two times in a week. I had to put some rat poison on the manifold to stop it. I recently had a squirrel take up residence in my diesel generator. I drug it out yesterday to clean it out and rodent proof it. No damage I have found so I might have got lucky.
 
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Did you finance your tractor through John Deere Financial and get their insurance? I think it's through Sentry.
If so, they will cover rodent damage.
We've replaced a few harnesses covered under their insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you finance your tractor through John Deere Financial and get their insurance? I think it's through Sentry.
If so, they will cover rodent damage.
We've replaced a few harnesses covered under their insurance.
I did finance it through Deere, I’ll have to look into that tomorrow and see what they have to say
 
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People accuse me of cruelty when dealing with mice, but they're also not paying the bills on the expensive machines in my garage.

The floor along all my walls are lined with glue traps. They're the only thing I've had luck with. After having to rewire my Polaris Rzr, I decided enough was enough.

That being said, I blasted a ton of expanding foam into the corners that saw all the activity a few months ago and I haven't caught one since.

Is it cruel if they suffer on a glue trap? Maybe, but I'll not shed a tear for rodents that reproduce non stop.
 

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Looks like 4 wires damaged, 2 single wires and a yellow and green twisted pair. I would cut the convoluted tubing off at the base of where the mice chewed, removing the entire damaged section. Then I would de- pin those 4 wires from the connector, you might need a special tool for that specific connector. You will need to find the connector part number on the body of the connector to figure out which tool you will need, or have a go at it with mechanics picks if you can see how the contacts are retained. Get yourself the correct size marine heat shrink. Marine is important as it has a silicon inside that creates a waterproof seal once it is shrunk. Untwist the twisted pair and use a separate piece of heat shrink on each wire, so 4 pieces total. Retwist the twisted pair once they are sealed, you might need zip ties to hold the repaired section together. Re-pin the connector and replace the convoluted tubing that was removed with new, using electrical tape to bond it to the existing tubing.
This is what I would do as well. The place below can supply the tool for removing the pins which will push out easy using it. Then slide the heat shrink over it and repair it. Just make sure to take a photo and make sure you put the wires back where they below. Hopefully you can do them one at a time.

I went out and popped the cowl off my 38 but did not see those connectors or I would have seen if this tool was the proper one. There is no markings on the tool but I showed the number for a connector it works with. I suspect many use the same size tool which is basically a tube but id and od’s could change.

This is the one for a lot of the Delphi watertight connectors they use on it.

TheElectricalDepot.com!, Electrical Connectors and Much More!
 

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People accuse me of cruelty when dealing with mice, but they're also not paying the bills on the expensive machines in my garage.

The floor along all my walls are lined with glue traps. They're the only thing I've had luck with. After having to rewire my Polaris Rzr, I decided enough was enough.

That being said, I blasted a ton of expanding foam into the corners that saw all the activity a few months ago and I haven't caught one since.

Is it cruel if they suffer on a glue trap? Maybe, but I'll not shed a tear for rodents that reproduce non stop.
Don’t feel bad. Just imagine what I do with red squirrels - they are more of a problem around here than mice.

No holes barred when it comes to them. I am on a mission every year - it’s a constant battle. Destructive rodent vermin....
 

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I've posted a few times about those little POS! Keep the hood open! I've done this for years and they don't bother my tractor anymore!:thumbup1gif: They would nest on top of the tranny, and on top of the fuel tank. I can't say it would work for everyone but it should.
 

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I've posted a few times about those little POS! Keep the hood open! I've done this for years and they don't bother my tractor anymore!:thumbup1gif: They would nest on top of the tranny, and on top of the fuel tank. I can't say it would work for everyone but it should.
I finally followed this advise this past winter when I keep my tractor in the barn - no mice so far.

However I park it in my pavilion in the warm months - the pavilion has become my equipment shed more or less. I get a nest somewhere above the transmission then - they come running out from underneath when I start it. But I just can’t bring myself to leave the hood open in my plain view all the time.

Kind of funny - Jake - my Border Collie - loves to play with and dispatch mice. Each time I head down to get the tractor he gets all excited. He waits on his front haunches for me to start it. When the mice dash out it’s on. Took him a few tries but he ended up getting all 3 eventually.

Good dog!
 

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I've had good luck with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5TBW42/

I know it works because they used to go into my car's trunk, and after I put that in there, they stopped.

I think they just find it unpleasant, and while it probably won't stop them if you leave food bits in your tractor (like....don't?? :) ), it should keep them out otherwise.

As for the electrical tape and moisture and corrosion, that's true. Though it can stop it if you do a good job, at least for the most part. I'm just of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" school of thought. These tractors are very sensitive to "faults." The thing threw a fault code and wouldn't reliably shut down (as in it kept running after I shut it down with the key) after I replaced the rops light bulbs with LEDs. I had to put back the regular bulbs (or I could have added a resistor) to get it to stop doing that. So if it works 100%, there is nothing wrong.

So I'd still use the tape. If it ever caused problems years later, then I'd replace the harness. Although if insurance will cover it, then obviously that's the way to go. Isn't there a deductible though? These harnesses can't cost THAT much, can they?
 

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You know, leaving the hood up on the newer models might not work as well as the older ones. The side panels on the newer ones might offer them seclusion!:nunu:
 

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The deductible is 500 dollars I believe, and yes, wiring harnesses can be incredibly expensive
So I'd still use the tape. If it ever caused problems years later, then I'd replace the harness. Although if insurance will cover it, then obviously that's the way to go. Isn't there a deductible though? These harnesses can't cost THAT much, can they?
It's hard to tell exactly which wiring harness this would be but it appears to be the main chassis wiring harness which is $2504. The part cost is only a portion of the issue. The way that main harness is snaked through the tractor it looks like you would almost need to strip the machine down to the frame to remove/install the harness. The labor involved could be astronomical.
 
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