[fishnjim]

Unsuccessful with dealer and/or Deere since they replaced the actuator I broke while under warranty. Worked flawless up until then. They did not calibrate the actuator, since they didnt; have the deck but didn't ask for it either. It's been out of calibration the whole time.
After that, it started not working right, throwing codes as it searched for it's postion, kinda like a drunk walking. I've had it in a few times and nothing resolved. They put some sort of JD tech service inquiry but nothing reported won't even respond since last Aug '22. It's off warranty now. I've been dealing with it like that. Sat. I was finishing up the grass and I noticed not much clippings coming out - third cutting this year. Just thought the grass was short back there. When I quit and raised the mower - nothing. The indicator said "0". The selector was still on set point. I measured the blades, 5.5" vs 2.5" set point.
Sunday/Monday I started diagnosing. All the side panel connectors checked out. Not dial or the joystick. I have a tech manual but it's not worth $30, let alone the $300 I ponied up. There's insufficent guidance or troubleshooting for it. I've reduced it down to either one of the 3 relays that turn on the system/motor or the actuator. But can't even get my hand in there to undo the connector to test, let alone take it apart/off.
There should be a crank or some manual way to lower the deck but apparently was not anticipated. Anyone know how to get out of this mess? I have to get the deck off to access the actuator/ repair it. It only comes off if it's down all the way!
I found out how to do the calibration from the tech manual and what the codes are for. The code HOC517160.03 is an overvoltage on the lower side. Clearly out of calibration or shorted. I you get a code, hit the top center button on the key pad, it should go away until it sense again.
I think another design problem is there's not much "float" in the deck and if you hit something, the deck doesn't float and all the force it transmitted to the actuator. The front skid plate is wearing away, I'm going to hard surface it soon as I get some weld rod. The deck bent on me going on the trailer at the dealers, I had to straighten to even get it to move. There's a small "shoe" inside the front of the discharge, that caught the space between the deck and the ramps. I added a rebar under the grass shoot to connect the two ends so it can't snag and bent the end upward so it can't snag.
I'm going to redesign those four rollers too. They should not be sticking out like that. I bent handle and pin several times already.
I'll get this tractor working, perfectly, it's a good machine just a poor company selling poorly designed junk... I got a suspension seat on it, they relented, after not paying, about the warranty. But had to take the replacement, why I don't know? Good door stop for the garage I guess. Grrrrr...

 

[fishnjim]

No interest. I guess I'll have to get the flame wrench out and clear the deck!

 

[fishnjim]

Today, I managed to get the 72" deck off from the up position. Start by taking the front yoke off, remove two mower attaching bolts on the forks. Take yoke off, put guide wheels in the remove deck position(pull the lever out level)then pry up the locking cams, and pull the mower forward and it'll slide down and go to the ground. Not easy but I figured it out. You may have more trouble. Then you can drive over. From there I was able to disconnect the actuator connector, but was not able to power the motor through the connector. After I disconnected, the HOC code changed, from 160.03 to .04 which I didn't understand. Not sure if my power supply provided enough amps, motor's fried, or it still thinks it's down all the way but extended. You can not take the actuator off in the up position. The pin by the motor end won't clear the right bar. You can take off the other end pin, without removing the wheel, but there's a coilover shock that pivots the mechanism, so it's under pressure. It's fully extended, so I tried to jack that up to retract but actuator's locked in enough it raised the tire off the ground. So it's a bit dangerous until I can get it in down position
Played phone tag with the JD factory guy for 5 days. Being a cesk jockey, no tech help. He called the dealer, they were supposed to do something, but no call from them. I'm pretty much on my own now. They'll slow me down.
I'm checking the 3 relays now, had to stop to eat and watch Kansas lose.
I think I've got it almost figured out, but not a well conceived device. If I can safely get the actuator out I can bench it and figure it out. Hunch, it may need the 5VDC reference voltage supplied to work. But no diagrams for the actuator in the tech manual.
Unknown how this actually happened, as it should not be possible if it was working correctly. The "down" signal was the one that code said was bad, but the up apparently went or something. I'm getting a reading on the down ECU position 14 which is high enough it should not send the low alarm. So the calibration being off is in play, but you can not calibrate with a HOC code showing. Just acknowledging it on the key pad won't remove just removes from display. Need a ECU programmer to do that.
They don't tell you in the tech manual procedure, but you have to put the e-brake on to get into the computer modes from the key pad. It's interlocked.
All that then I found a seeping fuel leak from the tank drain plug, so have to fix that now too.

 

[Harold Barnes]

I hope I never have this problem. What is the e-brake?

"They don't tell you in the tech manual procedure, but you have to put the e-brake on to get into the computer modes from the key pad. It's interlocked. "

 

[Kennyd]

What is the e-brake

Emergency (parking) brake.

 

[fishnjim]

JD is using Metri-Pack 150, 280, and 480 connectors on the 2038R.
Just to make it easy to ring out the controls, I wanted to make up a test pigtail for the HOC circuit to make sure the problem is in the actuator. I found the actuator connector(Y24) shell type 101 but not assembled pigtail(so far). It has 150 and 480 pins.
I bench checked 2 of 3 HOC relays and they were OK, but they are in a difficult access place under seat and with short tethers broke the retainers off unplugging, and had to replace. I was reluctant at $20 a pop on Sunday to continue. I can get for <$6 on-line. A $30 part. I'll check in with the JD folks Mon. and see if any progress on their part - I think I know the answer, same as always. The CCMS case is marked "resolved" already and nothing's been done. They do this every time one submits an action item. Must be some performance criteria for the agents.
They're also doing away with MyJDaccount and you have to retype all your mechine info into the new system, no carry over. Craz-zee! Migration is common, but apparently not there.

 

[fishnjim]

Progress today.
Sad showing by the dealer and Turf folks. They "closed" my case without anything being done - again. They did this last time too. Whatta joke customer service dept. No help forthcoming, I'm on my own. If they knew what they were doing, this would've been fixed last Aug.
How many times do you take our tractor back to sit in the yard for weeks and nothing being done, or they tell you they can't reproduce the problem, and when you get it, it still not working, same a swhen you took it in? Then they want to blame me? Special place for that type behavior. Intolerable.
To get the actuator out, when it's fully extended, one can drop the lift arms, by removing the two front pivot bolts. No tension on that end. Allows access for the front pin removal for the gear drive end. Then take the far most pin off and raise the shaft over the rocker arm. The nearest brake linkage rod is in the way, so you have to disconnect it. Then it'll come over. The most problematic chore was to get the cotter pin off, with bifocals on, the brake linkage without taking the tire off. Not much room to maneuver. But without help, lifting filled tires is not possible alone.
The motor won't turn attached to the shaft, so something inside is amiss or motor is shot. According to the actuator manufacturer. check the ohms and that was good, 1.5 ohm. But no target value was given. I'm in contact with the actuator manufacturer. Lots more info on their website than JD presents in the tech manual.
I still have to figure out why this happened, and may need the dealer to check the computer and controls with the programmer before I spend for an actuator. I'm going to test those signals. The connector wire is very short and not good access from below, so I'll have to take the floor up on that side to get to it from above. If I had a pigtail I could check in place, but unless the motor is toast, I'm not compromising the one on the actuator(yet). Depends what I find tomorrow.
Not as bad as I first figured, four bolts all that was needed to be removed.
One just has to think about it, and sometimes work backward to figure things out when the info and help is lacking.
These actuators sell for around $400 retail, so the mark up is 4X. And it doesn't last to boot! They make a heavy duty model.

 

[fishnjim]

I also fixed the fuel leak today. I put a nylon washer (1" w/ .406" hole) on the plug. It didn't have any, metal to metal seal and it stopped, so far. I thought maybe the plastic was hit, but looks OK. One giant pain to change that tank.

 

[fishnjim]

Interesting developments.
They show a new part number for the actuator TA-17327(third replacement) but so far I don't see any pix. When I plug that into the Wagner Linear/Thomson search, it takes me to the Electratrak series, which is heavy duty, load snubbered, motor encased, and a "MANUAL OVERRIDE" Gee, I'm jealous!
No mention of this by the JD rep or local service. I guess they want me to buy one for $1617 rather than admit they put an obsolete part on mine during warranty.
I asked Thomson is they could get me a K2X version and they balked. Also, their part number does not match what was on my tractor. They show ending in "3", mine ends in "6". So getting the run around and all accounts. Sad, this used to not happen in America. We've been globalized out of our previous sanity.
When I inspected the non-working part, the only fault I could find was the motor. I mus have tested wrong before. But battery power - nothing. The extension screw and gears work perfectly manually with the motor off, but does not move with motor on. I have a replacement motor ordered, and it's back ordered. They said they were out of stock on actuators too. So if/when it comes, I can reinstall and test and see if anything else is kaput.
It ain't over til it's over, I'll see if I can get the electrak unit/fit up if I have to, or at least a pix of the TA to compare. Unless someone has one?
My opinion of JD gets lower with every turn of the actuator screw!