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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Been running around the property with my 2155 tractor, with the 146 FEL and "ICV" control joystick.
I have some questions and my apologies for the basic stuff.

The ICV has a float mode. Is the joystick supposed to stay in the all the way forward position, "lock in" and you need to pull it back to take it out of float?

The ICV has a regen mode (joystick all the way to the right), that seems to do nothing for me but maybe I don't have enough load in the bucket to make it heavy enough??

Hydraulic oil seemed low when I got it, but dip stick at back to the left of filler hole also doesn't match the one shown in the operator manual (to left and below filler, mine is down low behind pto guard) so I am a bit confused. I just added whatever hydraulic oil I had kicking around ...... yikes.....

Just confirming that if I remove the return hydraulic oil filter on the bottom of the transmission on the left where the ICV return line is connected to that all the hydraulic oil will come out and I will need to replace it?

I am not sure how the hydraulic brakes work, Is there "pads" that wear out? I have a operator manual and shop manual and parts catalog but its a bit unclear still. The brakes work sorta. I think I need to adjust the parking brake as the lever comes up very easy and I have driven away with it on....why look at the dash for warning lights....

Now if you made it this far...how much noise is expected from transmission while driving. Seems like quite a bit of noise to me, I can't say that it is a grinding sound or anything, just seems loud, like a guy has straight cut gears kind of meshing noise. Depending what range and gear you select it gets worse but probably gears are spinning faster I think Range I speed 4 sounds a lot worse then Range II speed 1.

That's it for now.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Float has detent to allow bucket to raise/lower freely to follow contour of ground. Regenerative valve is designed to help supply depleted hyd oil when bucket is curled forward with a heavy load & cylinder pistons travel faster forward than hyd pump can supply oil. Hyd oil dipstick should be on RH side when standing behind tractor,

758390
 

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The joystick will stay in float until pulled back. Normal.
It sounds like you found the transmission dipstick. Was the level low? You should use JD HyGard.
When you drop the transmission oil filter you will not lose the complete transmission fill. I'll guess about 1 gallon or less.
I am not sure how long the brakes last, (My JD 2030 has 4500 hours and original brakes) there is a lining or a disc. Water is the enemy of the brakes. Torn shift boots are the usual entry point. It (water) destroys the lining, it breaks the lining up. it and ends up at the transmission sump screen. That requires a complete drain to pull and inspect.
My 2030 is so loud (exhaust), I have no idea what the transmission sounds like. :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My joystick does not stay all the way forward, I have to hold it all the way forward for float to work.

I don't have the dip stick like shown on that picture. Perhaps a different year.

Tractor came with some spare filters, I replaced most of them with new ones as there was little history although the air filter had sharpie on it that was about 200 hours ago.

This has an "aftermarket" muffler coming out the hood with a piece of square tubing welded making an offset.

I haven't decided if I should drain the hydraulic oil or not. I see it was AW 46 that I put in. I will have to pull it into the shop some time.
 

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Detent on float or lack of detent is determined by spring loaded mechanism on spool valve. I located another style hyd oil dipstick that I was unaware was available. Rear brakes can last a very long time if there's no moisture contamination in hyd reservoir. My JD 4255 is approaching 12,000 hrs on original brake linings & Perma-clutch
758538
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758537
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks like the dip stick I have, mine is just missing the parts above #5 so its just a tiny head on the top of a tube.

The detent spring is in the box on the right side where the hydraulic valves that control fel is ?

Im thinking i will drain the oil and replace filters.

From what I understand the hydraulic steering wears out after a while. I have to turn the wheel quite a bit to go from turning left to right. Like a big dead band area in the centre. I do a fair amount of trying to place things with fel. That a big job to fix or not worth it ?
 

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On subject of slack in steering I suggest to check for failed brgs under front end. Also remove rear inspection plug on clutch housing & check to be sure bolt(key 12) is tight.
 

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Spring was designed to apply pressure to retainer(key 4) to hold hyd filter against trans case so hyd oil travels through filter not around filter. Brake linings operate in oil & may possibly require bleeding to operate correctly. With engine operating so trans pump can replenish oil in brake valve reservoir open each bleeder on the top of each final drive housing while depressing each brake pedal to expel any air in brake system if it's present. Did you sort put the """hyd oil level discrepancy"""?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There were quite a few oil leaks, the L/D control shaft was leaking pretty bad, and the brake line a fair amount. I bought a new brake line but I duno if its right, wasnt expecting so many bends in the pipe.

I didnt recall the L/D control shaft leaking so bad when I got it but as soon as I put a ballast box on 3 point it started.

There are multiple hardline adapted to hose with gear clamp style fittings (must be hydraulic returns) so thats not super either for leaks.
 

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I had to replace the left brake line on my 2030. I was surprised it came prebent. It fit perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks, I was very skeptical but looks like the brake line fits pretty good. Bleeding brakes is similar process as automotive so no issues for me there.

I had seen somewhere about how to replace the L/D shaft seals, I was expecting them to be 3 inches inboard and I would have to try reach in there but being closer to the outside of the bushing, not a big deal.

I was looking to adjust the parking brake but looks like you need to pull the wheel off to get access to some of the adjusters and its likely just worn out anyway so I think i will just leave it.

Thank you guys!
So much help!
 

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I thought parking brake adjustment bolt was accessible by removing hex plug on LH rear top corner of trans case
 
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