2210 Drive Shaft Lubrication Easy Way

20400 Views 17 Replies 10 Participants Last post by dakota jack, Jul 18, 2020

gotdeeres

Discussion Starter · Sep 22, 2011

I read RandyM's thread on the lubrication of the 2305 drive shaft. Since I have a 2210, I thought mine may also have this problem. I read the owner's manual and there was no mention of the need to lubricate the driveshaft. I read the technical manual and could not even find any information on the transmission driveshaft?

I had an electrical problem and had to remove the cowl to get to the relays. I noticed a rubber cap (M807480) on the left side of the cowl. I wondered what it was for?? Well it was raining today and I thought I would attempt the DRIVE SHAFT LUBRICATION operation. :banghead: From what I have read, this may require some devine intervention.

ray:

I popped the cap off and with a flash light I actually saw the grease fitting on the engine universal. View attachment 4255 This is also on the 2305.

I bought a Lincoln needle injector and attached to a small grease gun I had. View attachment 4254 The grease fitting was in the perfect position for me to easily grease.
I be happy!! :lol: This took less than 5 minutes.

Then I removed the rubber cap on the footdeck to grease the rear universal. WELL THIS WILL BE THE NEXT TIME!! View attachment 4256

I spent a lot of time trying to find a way to access the rear universal grease fitting. Finally I removed the ROPS, fender deck, levers, footrest, and a partridge in a pear tree. This was not very difficult but was just a lot of stuff to remove. I had to turn the grease fitting about 15 degrees with a screwdriver to be able to line up the needle injector. Luckily this was in the loosen direction. After I removed the foot deck, I cut an access hole that is covered by a M807480. Next time will be easy.

I checked the MFWD drive shaft and there were no grease fittings. AT least removing it will be easier that the transmission driveshaft.

GotDeeres

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1 - 18 of 18 Posts

North Country

· #2 · Sep 23, 2011

Let me see if I got this right - picture #3 is a picture of your access cap that you installed? Did I get that right? Do you have a few other pics of the whole deal?

gotdeeres

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 23, 2011

Picture 3 is the access cap. I do have some other pictures. After I put it all back together I will post more.

GotDeeres

RandyM

· #4 · Sep 24, 2011

Yeah, I am a little confused also. Do you mean you can not access the fittings from the bottom like on the 2305? :unknown: It sounding like the two models are really quite different. :think:

megotadeere

· #5 · Sep 25, 2011

THAT'S CHEATIN! :lol:
Boggles my mind why Deere didn;t put that access plug in the floor!:unknown:

gotdeeres

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 25, 2011

Randy,

I thought a 2210 and 2305 were almost clones. The more I work on the 2210 I find differences. My SIL has a 2305 that I will be greasing soon.

This a view of the underside of the frame near the flywheel. You cannot even see the driveshaft.

View attachment 4291

This is the underside of the frame near the rear universal. You cannot see it either.
View attachment 4292

This is the top view of the rear universal. The cross support for the deck adjustment mechanism pretty well blocks any access to it from below.
View attachment 4293

A new driveshaft is $675 and requires the tractor to be split. So I hear. Big bucks. I plan to grease the universals regularly. A tube of grease is only a few bucks.

I do not like the fact that I chopped a hole in the foot deck, but it should have been done in the factory. I can now easily grease the two universals from the top.

Just lazy, not stupid,

GotDeeres

eepete

· #7 · Sep 26, 2011

gotdeeres said:
Just lazy, not stupid,

Now those are words to live by. I'll do whatever it takes so I can be lazy. A fine and functional solution.

Pete

Mike_1969_cb450

· #8 · Sep 26, 2011

Quick review for me, Thanks.

I've got a new to me 2210 and I've been following along, but I want to make sure I've got this straight.

Front U-joint is already assessable if I remove the already existing M807480, not sure where this is, if you could provide a bit of detail here it would be great.

Then, I purchase a second M807480 and cut a hole into the rear cowl. Can I cut this without removing the floor panel? Is this just plastic or is there steel behind that surface?

Thanks, Mike

RandyM

· #9 · Sep 26, 2011

gotdeeres said:
Randy,

I thought a 2210 and 2305 were almost clones.
GotDeeres

GD, I guess we are both learning. :thumbup1gif: I figured there should be differences but was not under the impression that they were significant.:unknown:

gotdeeres

Discussion Starter · #10 · Sep 26, 2011

EEPete,
The northern version of this phrase is "Work smarter, not harder." :lol:

Randy,
You would think that the frame would be the same. :think:

Mike,
I will post a picture of the access cap.

GotDeeres

gotdeeres

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 3, 2011

Mike,

Sorry for the delay. The first picture shows the location of the cap in the pedestal cowling. You will need to rotate the driveshaft until it is visable. To rotate the driveshaft, you can access it from under the tractor. It is just in front of the plate for the deck height adjustment. I used a pair of VG pliers.

View attachment 4388

I made an outline with blue tape showing the approximate location of the new cap. It needs to be moved down and rotated to a vertical position. My original location works but it is difficult to use. I was trying to stay out of the curved area in the footrest. The grease fitting in my driveshaft had to be rotated a little. The only way I could do it was to remove footrest.:banghead:

View attachment 4389

GotDeeres

Mike_1969_cb450

· #12 · Oct 4, 2011

Thanks for the pictures.

Dang, it appears the U joint is positioned just below the point where the cowl meets the floorboard. In looking at your pictures on previous post showing deck adjusting shaft and fan, it looks like the U joint is midpoint between the shaft and fan. So the ideal position for the access hole is on the curved section where the cowl meets the floorboard.

I thought of removing the deck elevation system to gain access from the bottom, but your picture shows some lines that are bolted from the top so that just won't work.

Ouch, darn, this is a situation indeed, someday I will dive into this, for now I must prepare for winter.

Thanks for your insight into this, a good conversation indeed.

Mike

gotdeeres

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 5, 2011

Mike,

My first thought was to remove the deck adjustment plate. Two of the bolts looked pretty easy and the other two looked almost impossible. Another thought was to drill/cut a hole in the plate to get to the u-joint. You need to be able to see and try to hit the grease fitting at the same time. The hole would have to be fairly large. This would probably be more difficult than a blind man threading a needle. :banghead:

The cap is made of a rubber type material so it will be possible to form it to the curved form of the footrest, maybe. You could try a different type of cap maybe round. Let me know when you start this project. I may have some new ideas after doing my SIL's 2305.

GotDeeres

dougdm

· #14 · Mar 6, 2013

Does anyone know where I could find the photos to this thread. I have purchased a 2210 in 4/2012 and it has 860 hrs on it. I am sure it has never been greased. After reading this post I fee confident I could do the work, I would rather not remove the entire floor pan to access the grease certs. Any help would be great!!!

Thank you
Doug

dougdm

· #15 · Mar 6, 2013

I have contacted the administrator and was told the website, who uploaded the images has removed them. bummer

rivermc197

· #16 · Apr 23, 2013

Needle Tip Grease Gun

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tips on the access holes and the needle tip grease guns to lube the 2210 drive shaft u-joints. I already went through replacing mine at a dealer an it was obviously pricey, so I'd like to keep up on the maintenance now.

With that needle tip grease gun attachment, do you just push the tip up against the center ball on the grease zerks, then pump in the grease? Or is there a different method to doing it? How do you know when there is enough in there?

Also, can you do the rear joint from underneath the tractor? Thanks!

Firewood Bandit

· #17 · May 5, 2019

rivermc197 said:
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tips on the access holes and the needle tip grease guns to lube the 2210 drive shaft u-joints. I already went through replacing mine at a dealer an it was obviously pricey, so I'd like to keep up on the maintenance now.

With that needle tip grease gun attachment, do you just push the tip up against the center ball on the grease zerks, then pump in the grease? Or is there a different method to doing it? How do you know when there is enough in there?

Also, can you do the rear joint from underneath the tractor? Thanks!

Can't see the pics either.:banghead:

I have a needle grease gun fitting too. It is not easy but you need to get the needle squarely on the zerk. You can feel this after you have a sufficient amount of dirt fall in your dirt and eyes. :laugh: Get good light. A good TIP though is knowing you can rotate the drive shaft easily by hand if you just grab the fly wheel and rotate to where it needs to be.

Hoping it stops in the right spot will not work. Trust me.

Reactions: etcallhome

dakota jack

· #18 · Jul 18, 2020

this information has been invaluable. i am astounded that john deere a. did not mention the need to grease these fittings and b. make provision for it.
following gotdeeres advice i cut a 4 x5" hole in the foot rest, a little bigger than the hole at the bottom of the console, but the larger hole allows me good access. i am able to turn the shaft w a wrench to line up the fittings this way. underneath is instant vertigo for me. the angles are not perfect but i am hoping the grease needle will be a little forgiving.
i cut some leather to cover the hole. attached w sheet metal screws it is easy to flip out of the way
500 + hours on the machine i was probably cruising for trouble.
thanks for the ideas

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