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2210 vs. 2305 vx 1023E/1026

18086 Views 11 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  GreenWannabe
Hi Everybody..

First, I want to thank everyone in advance who may be able to help and offer suggestions to current dilemna.

I currently own a JD 2210 (w/ FEL, 54C MMM and Front Blade attachments) with only 560 hours, but these were some hard hours as my 4 acres are hilly with 30+ degree 50-200' slopes, example: 5 very long and narrow (5-10' wide x 200' long) turfed terraces at the rear of the house which graduate with the highest being 5' higher than the ridgeline of my 2 story colonial. Front of the house is turfed and stands 50' back from the road and the elevation 35-40' high! About 1 acre of woods, brush, rough terrain.

On some of the slopes (about 50% of the property) I cant mow until the dew burns off! And I run the 2210 almost all of the time in low gear 4wd.

And until yesterday I was extremely happy with the 2210 - as it did everything I needed it to do and more - and did it easily. I have sold more JD scut's just by using the equipment on the property with people driving by asking me the make/model, and I know the local dealership uses the property as a "referral" when people are asking what a JD scut can do.

Anyhow, when I was mowing and backing up a 35 degree slope in front of the house it seems that the transmission crashed - reverse got locked up, gears grinding, wheels wouldn't move forward or backward.

Took it out of low gear into neutral, put it back into low gear and when I changed pedals to go forward (down the slope) the machine freewheeled about 50' straight down (brakes didnt grip), into a drainage ditch, across a road, and down into the opposite ditch and onto my neighbors lawn. BTW gentlemen, the JD 2210 w/ foam filled tires CAN do wheelies when given enough speed and upward ramp mobility!!

Kept the wheels straight, lifted the masts so they wouldnt dig into the bottom of the slope at that speed, and luckilly no cars, trucks, people were crossing my path. Needless to say the pucker factor was high for about 3 seconds - but I was strapped in as always and just held on while ensuring a straight downward, though very fast run.

The 2210 goes forward, but no reverse - just locks up when trying - sometimes I hear metal grinding though in the rear.

The 54C MMM works perfectly so at least I know the PTO works and no shafts got broken.

I am able to lift the FELs mast arms with no problem so I know that the hydraulics are working.

Dealer said, obviously, the Hydromatic Trans crashed and could not provide an estimate in how much it could cost - $2k to $8k was his figure. And it would possibly be more cost-effective just to get a new JD 1023E and he would give me some trade-in for the 2210

My residential property is hilly with various terrain angles and slopes, some very steep - which the dealer said was the ultimate cause of the transmission failure and that all 4 wheels were foam filled at time of purchase so as to provide, a) lower center of gravity on the slopes, b) more weight for the tires to grab the fine turf and terrain, and c) alot of sharp builder debris and nails strewn over the property which resulted in the tires becoming a magnet.

So my friends I am trying to
1) determine whether I should take the risk and get the 2210 repaired, or
2) find a late model low hour 2305 so I can use all of my 2210 attachments and then sell the 2210 as is, or
3) get a 1023/1026 w/ H120 FEL, 54" MMM, and an adapter to use my Front Blade plus I was offered $4500. as a trade-in for the 2210 w/ FEL and MMM.
4) Go Orange, Yellow or other Non-Green Machine..

Now my JD dealer says I should not expect much more than 600 hours because my property is putting alot of strain on the machine - and he said that he was surprised I got the hours that I did on the 2210.. and that the weight of the foam filled tires plus the terrain were contributing factors to the blown tranny.. but 560 hours?

The Orange dealer who knows my property said he is VERY reluctant to even sell me a tractor because of the 30 degree and greater slopes.. His suggestion was to weed whack! Not very helpful....

I demo'd the 1023/1026 and the MMMs were a show stopper as after 4 different machines and as many MM's the dealer just could not get them to mount/dismount properly, and the tolerances between MM and Tractor seem to be very very tight with even the slightest misalignment would at best not allow for a non-frustrastiong proper mount/dismount, and at worst would cause serious damage to PTO and holding clips.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.. including going to a different color tractor..

Also, I need a SCUT because of the terrain.. the JD 2320 (2230?) is too big for the property/terrain.

Any help would be appreciated..

Regards,

Mike
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I dont have an answer at all for you. But if your terrain will destroy a top of the line CUT and continue to do so in 600 hours, I would do something different. Like plant wild flowers/grass or landscape the terraces and just mow the flat parts. Because anything that will tear up a tractor that fast.. I wouldnt mow.

A picture might help.

As far as new CUTS if you are concerned about the MMM connection method, then dont opt for the autoconect. Go with traditional technology. You dont have to buy the autoconnect on the new 1 series.

Whatever you do, you might consider putting a temp guage on the hydro and maybe some additional cooling if required. Heat is the big killer in a lot of cases.

Wish I could help, but not sure I have much to offer.
How much do you need a loader?

I'd look at the X7xx series lawn/garden tractors. They will have a lower COG and be a better all around mowing machine. My next choice would be a 1026r - they are really nice.

I should add... how much will the repair cost you? If it's not to expensive, then just repairing it would be the best idea. You should not need to run in 4x4 all the time, nor should it hurt the tractor, though. If the 4x4 damaged the tractor something is wrong. You would be better off going up the hills with the turning capability of 2x4, though.
my opinion is just that.

i would go old school. find a nice old gear driven tractor. i know they aren't as flashy, cumfy, or shiny. but they were built like tanks. also parts are available for some if parts do happen to go south.

it is unfortunate that things only lasted that long. even with hills i would expect a lot longer life span.

as suggested maybe it is the heat that kills it. I woulder if you do go hydro if you could get an adapter for behind the filter to mount a remote oil cooler. I know when i was playing with old air cooled vw they had a temperature actavated switch that coul be used with the remote oil cooler. of course I have no idea where you could stuff a cooler at. the hood under my 2305 looked pretty cramped as is!

-Aaron
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Welcome to GTT!

The Auto-connect on the 1 series mower is just for the MMM PTO shaft. The deck is the same. It's still a drive-over setup regardless of which mower PTO shaft you have. If the dealer sets up the deck before delivery, it shouldn't be an issue. Most problems can be associated with dealers just assembling the machine and not properly adjusting it.

I would get a better estimate for repairs for your 2210. The $2k-8K is too big a range. Can you do any repairs yourself? We can help you with it on the forum.:hi:
The 2210's and early 2305's had a deficient aluminum hydrostatic transmission housing. It was eventually beefed up to prevent internal damage that allowed a shaft to breakout an internal boss. This was fairly common especially when using rear PTO mounted attachments.

I'd say if you like the machine and everything else is up to snuff, get it repaired. It's probably a relatively minor internal problem that can be easily repaired. Even if it costs a few thousand dollars to repair you'll still be way ahead. If you buy new you're still going to have to foam fill the tires and that's going to add another $800-$1000 to your net purchase. On the other hand new iron is pretty exciting stuff!!

Good luck!

Frank
I believe we'll be hearing from the OP that his problem is somewhat resolved. He posted on another forum that the issue is being caused by a failure in the front axle. Tranny may be just fine.
I just got my deere today but I do know about mowing on hill's. If your mowing on a hill I would look into a Ventrac. You can get a loader or just about any attachment that you need. Golf courses use these a lot. Just my two cents.
I just got my deere today but I do know about mowing on hill's. If your mowing on a hill I would look into a Ventrac. You can get a loader or just about any attachment that you need. Golf courses use these a lot. Just my two cents.
The ventrac's are cool. It's amazing the slopes those things will stick to. Zillions of attachments for them too.
Ventracs = huge $$$$$$$
Ventrac or Steiner. Would have gotten one myself, but no dealers near me.
Welcome to Green Tractor Talk! I'm glad to see you found your way over here, that my reply to you didn't just confuse things.

For issues pertaining to the 1 series MMMs, you might look at this thread and those referenced in it, especially in post #4: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?3711-connecting-AutoConnect-on-concrete.

HTH
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