2240 Cooling and Power issues

2125 Views 20 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Tx Jim, Sep 18, 2021

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · Sep 13, 2021

Hey All,

I bought a 1977 2240 recently and I am having a few issues.

Cooling Issue:
After doing some brush hogging this weekend, I noticed my temperature gauge getting really close to red. Since this tractor is new to me, I'm not sure where operating temp should be on the gauge, but I would guess around midway. Looking at the side of the motor, I can see some of the newer paint burning off, pic attached for reference. The coolant level is correct, and looks to have been replaced recently. The radiator doesn't have any debris blocking airflow and the fan is working. I'm thinking its possible there's an issue with the water pump or thermostat, but I couldn't say for sure and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot those.

Power Issue:
The tractor sometimes will stall when running the brush hog and moving in forward gear. It has happened regardless of cutting brush and will stall when going over already mowed land. When I first start the tractor, I can hear a whine from the fuel pump that goes away after 30 seconds or so. I'm wondering if this is related to the stalling and could indicate a fuel delivery issue. For starters I am going to replace the fuel filter since the last owner didn't and I don't know what condition it's in.

Load Shaft Seals:
I will be replacing these next weekend. If anyone has any tips I would appreciate it. One side is constantly dripping. I may have bent it hooking up the brush hog, hard to say.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

Tx Jim

· #2 · Sep 13, 2021 (Edited)

Check for good fuel flow from tank to transfer pump. It's possible fuel transfer pump is failing. Try operating engine with shop towel covering fuel tank neck. If engine operates better without fuel cap the fuel cap is creating a vacuum in fuel tank while engine is operating.

On subject of engine operating temp remove radiator cap & after engine reaches operating temp look to determine iif coolant is circulating. Does back of fan belt extend out past belt pulley's?

See less See more

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 13, 2021

Tx Jim said:
Check for good fuel flow from tank to transfer pump. It's possible fuel transfer pump is failing. Try operating engine with shop towel covering fuel tank neck. If engine operates better without fuel cap the fuel cap is creating a vacuum in fuel tank while engine is operating.

On subject of engine operating temp remove radiator cap & after engine reaches operating temp look to determine iif coolant is circulating. Does back of fan belt extend out past belt pulley's?

Jim - I tried the coolant technique but I don't think I waited until the thermostat opened because coolant wasn't moving. I will check this. For the fueling issue, I will check the breather tube on the fuel tank. I'll probably pick up a new transfer pump anyway. They aren't expensive and it's good insurance so the injection pump doesn't starve and burn out prematurely.

See less See more

Tx Jim

· #4 · Sep 13, 2021

Some water pumps had plastic impellers that have a history of failing.

Reactions: 1

Zebrafive

· #5 · Sep 14, 2021

Temp gauge on my 2030 runs about the width of the pointer to left of straight up. This is brush hogging on hot day. It never gets any hotter on the gauge than that.

You can do the loader shaft seals by sliding the load shaft in just far enough to expose the seals.
When you slide the load shaft in, check the side that is out more (opposite side) for burrs/roughness that could take out the new seals. So check both sides of your load shaft first.
When you buy the seals, also buy shims. You want to put shims on both sides so the shaft can not move side to side.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 15, 2021

Zebrafive said:
Temp gauge on my 2030 runs about the width of the pointer to left of straight up. This is brush hogging on hot day. It never gets any hotter on the gauge than that.

You can do the loader shaft seals by sliding the load shaft in just far enough to expose the seals.
When you slide the load shaft in, check the side that is out more (opposite side) for burrs/roughness that could take out the new seals. So check both sides of your load shaft first.
When you buy the seals, also buy shims. You want to put shims on both sides so the shaft can not move side to side.

That's kind of what I was afraid of. From the looks of the paint on the block, I am guessing it's a stuck thermostat. I will run it to operating temp without the cap on to see if I can see movement as a first step.

See less See more

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #7 · Sep 17, 2021

Tx Jim said:
Some water pumps had plastic impellers that have a history of failing.

Hey Jim, I made it back to the tractor today. I fired her up and let it run about 10-15 minutes until it warmed up. The temperature gauge was about 1/3rd into the green and didn't budge. I had the coolant cap off and I could see the coolant moving. Also the belt is fully on the water pump pulley. I'm a bit stumped..

Also the fuel pump didn't make that sound today either. That would at least be in line with the pump failing.

See less See more

MattL

· #8 · Sep 17, 2021

OldGreenMachine said:
Hey Jim, I made it back to the tractor today. I fired her up and let it run about 10-15 minutes until it warmed up. The temperature gauge was about 1/3rd into the green and didn't budge. I had the coolant cap off and I could see the coolant moving. Also the belt is fully on the water pump pulley. I'm a bit stumped..

Also the fuel pump didn't make that sound today either. That would at least be in line with the pump failing.

Was the radiator clear while mowing? Next time the temp is going beyond vertical check the radiator for blockage.

See less See more

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 17, 2021

MattL said:
Was the radiator clear while mowing? Next time the temp is going beyond vertical check the radiator for blockage.

There was a surprising lack of debris on the radiator, literally none. Same with the side panels. My tach is broken, is it possible I was running at too high of an rpm?

MattL

· #10 · Sep 17, 2021

OldGreenMachine said:
There was a surprising lack of debris on the radiator, literally none. Same with the side panels. My tach is broken, is it possible I was running at too high of an rpm?

I'm not familiar with that specific tractor, so couldn't speak to that RPM concern. Is it possible that once shutdown, the lack of the rad fan suction allowed the debris to fall?

See less See more

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 17, 2021

MattL said:
I'm not familiar with that specific tractor, so couldn't speak to that RPM concern. Is it possible that once shutdown, the lack of the rad fan suction allowed the debris to fall?

Could be, but it's unlikely since I mowed the whole day in reverse. I have some very steep hills and had to back down them since the lower half is currently a swamp.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

theduke

· #12 · Sep 17, 2021

Dumb Question but here goes.

What are these Load seals and shims refered to above by you and Zebra5.....??

Reactions: 1

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #13 · Sep 17, 2021

theduke said:
Dumb Question but here goes.

What are these Load seals and shims refered to above by you and Zebra5.....??

See where the hydro fluid is leaking here? It's the bar that lifts the 3pt.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

theduke

· #14 · Sep 17, 2021

Well

Thats different. ......My task of learning something New today is more than complete.
Now I'm on a mission to learn more about this particular system.
From what I'm seeing this lift mechanism is down low...Or I'm looking at this pic wrong.
I'll get to the bottom or top of it as my curiosity is happening.

Thanks for the pic and time Sir.

See less See more

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #15 · Sep 17, 2021

I’m not real sure how it works either, maybe zebra will chime in.

Reactions: 1

Tx Jim

· #16 · Sep 17, 2021 (Edited)

I'm not Zebrafive but I think I can answer your questions about load & depth control shaft seals. JD engineers thought lower link 3 pt sensing was better than top link sensing therefor lower shaft flexes(bends) under load to activate L/D linkage to cause control valves to raise 3 pt when hard ground is encountered while plowing. When L/D seals fail one needs to drain hyd oil to R&R seals & check shaft for wear. Also JD tractor tech manuals have a lists of adjustment procedures that need to be performed in order for L/D mechanism to operate as designed. The L/D system performs very well when adjusted correctly

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59573/referrer/navigation/pgId/248743

See less See more

Reactions: 1

Zebrafive

· #17 · Sep 17, 2021

The shims prevent the shaft from moving side to side.
The shaft is what the lower 3pt links pivot on.

Reactions: 1

OldGreenMachine

Discussion Starter · #18 · Sep 18, 2021

Zebrafive said:
The shims prevent the shaft from moving side to side.
The shaft is what the lower 3pt links pivot on.

Are these that fragile? I didn't hit anything or do anything crazy, I don't understand how mine is leaking as bad as it is. It lost about 1/2 gallon over the past week while parked. I bought parts key #14,15,16,17 and 18. Hopefully between that and whats on there now I should have enough spacers. I went ahead and bought a new load shaft anyway because I didn't want to have it all apart and find out I needed a new one, then wait another 2 weeks for parts.

See less See more

Tx Jim

· #19 · Sep 18, 2021

When L/D seals begin to fail it seems they rapidly deteriorate. I would not classify these seals as fragile because I've witnessed some of these type seals lasting many yrs & hours of use.

Zebrafive

· #20 · Sep 18, 2021

My guess is you will find wear/damage on the seal area of the load shaft.
I've never replaced the shaft. I defer to Tx Jim for replacement tips/advice.
My 2030 leaks too, but no where near that bad. I will shim mine next seal replacement. Last time, I bought shims, but the dealer sold me the wrong ones, too small ID hole. I don't recall if parts catalog listed the wrong P/N or I was sold the wrong ones, maybe two different Load shaft diameters over the years?

See less See more

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.