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John Deere 1026R
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so I have read a bunch of the threads on why these seem to have charging issues. I have checked the alternator for proper voltage output, not amps though. Did the diode, safety relay, voltage regulator swap out just to see. Even replaced the light bulb for the indicator light on the dash... all for naught. All my testing thus far with a volt meter hasn't revealed an issue, except that I don't get anything above battery voltage at the battery, and of course the battery light on the dash never lights up.

So I printed off a wiring diagram, which I will admit isn't my strong suit. It does appear that somewhere in the wiring, I believe its the heavy white wire, that there is some sort of inline fuse, but I haven't tried to trace that down. With my luck it will be hidden and in a top secret place.

Has anyone tried all this, only to find some sort of different issue?
 

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What led you to investigate a charging issue? Was it a problem with your machine or just what you were reading online?
 

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What is the 2305 charging Mystery? Please describe the specific problem or conditions and the replies will be much more useful........Is your battery not maintaining an adequate charge? Are you having starting problems with the 2305?

The battery / charging dash light isn't illuminating, or so it sounds, despite the light bulb being replaced. Tell us why you think it should be illuminating and each thing you have done attempting to solve the problem.

What is the output of your tractor's alternator? Is the charging circuit producing the proper output when the tractor is running? A very easy way to check is with one of these low cost tools. For under $25 you will know the batteries strength under load, which is the only way to test a battery. It will also show you the voltage of the system not under load as well as the charging systems output, which is very helpful.


779888
 

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John Deere 1026R
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The battery doesn't charge. I discovered it when I had to replace a battery cable connection. When you turn on the tractor, there is no light on the battery at the dash. My understanding is there should be.

I have checked voltage coming out of the alternator. It increases as engine speed increases. I don't have enough of a meter to check the Amp output.

I replaced the diode, nothing. I swapped diodes around to see if something else didn't work. Nothing. I replaced the voltage regulator. Nothing. I replaced the safety relay. Nothing. Checked the fuses, nothing.

The only fuse I haven't checked is according to the wiring diagram, there is one that is inline on the white wire, I believe that comes off the back of the alternator and runs around to the starter and then perhaps goes into the voltage regulator.
 

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If it's an automotive style alternator you can take it off and take it to a shop and have it tested. Chain auto parts stores usually have this ability. But, I would try to find the hidden fuse first. If you can't find it but know what wire it is in you can do a continuity test.
 

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A few more questions to understand the whole problem.

1. Do you have to use an auxiliary charger to charge the tractor battery after using the tractor?

2. Besides the dash light not illuminating, what else indicates to you that your battery isn't charging?

3. How old is the tractor battery?

4. How long have you had this machine?

5. Do the tractors headlights (all lights, actually) increase and decrease in brightness with the tractor's engine speed?

6. What led you to replace the battery cable connection? And what exactly did you replace, the end of the cable at the battery or the entire battery cable or something else?

7. Do you have a Infrared Temp Gun to measure contact temps like the one shown below? If so, have you checked the temp of the length of the battery cables, starting with the one you repaired / replaced looking for internal cable corrosion or damage / resistance?

779981
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't have to charge the battery every time I use it, I could probably use it many times before I need to charge it, unless I am constantly on and off it, and have to keep cranking it, which I try to avoid. The very end of the battery cable was split, so it wouldn't stay tight on the battery post is why I replaced it. It seems to hold a good charge and my charger has an indicator to tell me if the battery is bad. I have no idea on its age.

Anyway when I replaced the terminal, then the tractor wouldn't crank. The lights work fine, I haven't noticed any dimming, but I rarely use them. I have also put a volt meter on the battery itself, while the tractor is running, even with higher engine speeds it only indicates about 12.5 volts. It has higher voltage coming off back of the alternator as engine speed increases.

I have had tractor about a year. No temp gun.

I looked at the wiring harness diagram last night, the thing I was thinking was a fuse is a fusible link. I don't think it would turn over if that was blown. Right?
 

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Post up your schematic and we'll take a look. But if you have "higher voltage" (higher by how much?) coming out of the alternator than what you read at the battery, then assuming you're referencing these voltage readings to the same exact point (the place your black meter lead is touching) you have an open or high resistance circuit between the alternator output and the battery bus/splice/wherever your alternator ties into your electrical system.
 

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Usually, when the alternators fail on these tractors, they go completely dead or they have a bearing failure and it sounds like a blender running or they are smoking the belt.

Even with the various issues mentioned, my money is on a failing battery...............I have to be honest, I am not a fan of replacing the battery terminals on battery cables. In a pinch, it can keep you going, but usually if the terminal is bad, its best to replace the cable with a new one. Cables can internally corrode under the cable coating. I would make putting a new, correct battery cable on the tractor a priority. It's also important to make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.

I can tell you that blown fusible links are actually EXTREMELY rare. They are often mentioned as a potential source of a problem, but I can't recall the last time it was actually the cause of the problem. Fusible links are often the last resort to prevent a dead short from burning down the machine. If the fusible link was bad, the circuit is usually broken and likely, the machine would be dead.

I would bet If the battery was load tested, it would likely be marginal in the test. It wouldn't be "failed" but I would bet it would show as weak. The diesel engines are hard on batteries. The vibration alone is a huge cause of failure in the batteries. Some last many years, many last a couple of years or less.

Being a 2305, its already on a replacement battery. If the replacement battery wasn't designed to handle the vibration, the battery could have a cracked plate or a broken plate. Unless the battery charger can properly load test the battery, the only test it is likely performing is whether it's not refusing to accept the incoming voltage from the charger. When it can't accept a charge from the charger it likely says "BAD" just as when the battery is fully charged, the charger likely displays "Charged" in the same location.

When starting issues and charging issues occur with these machines, BY FAR the most common source of the problem turns out to be the battery. I would bet the problem is the battery in 85% or more of the threads on the subject. Second most common is with the battery cables. That's also consistent with my personal experience repairing these units. Unless the battery has been properly load tested and confirmed to be 100%, it has to be carefully looked at and shouldn't be ruled out.
 
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