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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Felt ambitious today. Read all the threads I could find on the subject. So off I go...
My 2305 just turned 400hrs. Don't believe the U-joints were ever lubed. Attempted to do so recently but had my doubts concerning the grease penetration.

Tools needed for removal and install-
Circlip pliers with 6" or longer handle and 90 degree bent nose.
Flat round punch about 8" long but 6" can be held with pliers
Hammer
Lights
Screw driver to rotate driveshaft

Tools needed for U-joint assembly-
Small circlip pliers, straight nose.
Small screw driver
Hammer
Press or hammer/punches/sockets etc.
Grease gun
Emory paper to clean up races
Large channel locks to remove joint caps.
Cleaner

Parts needed-
New circlips for u-joints and front driveshaft. I was able to reuse the old ones. Best to have a spare.
U-joint kits from JD (2)


Figured it would be easier to get it up on my car lift...

Pic of underside.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next step was to orient the driveshaft in anticipation of removing the front circlip. Then knocking out the roll-pin which resides under the clip.

To remove the circlip a circlip plier about 6" long with 90degree bent nose is needed.

Open the circlip and push forward toward engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rotate the drive shaft to expose the roll pin. The pin is about 3/16 diameter.

The JD exploded parts manual shows a small pin within the roll pin. Mine did not have one. Anyways they both get knocked out together.

Using a punch (needs to be about 8" long) knock the pin up and out.

Now the Driveshaft is free. There is nothing holding the rear of the shaft onto the Trans spline (no circlip or roll-pins).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Now the drizeshaft can be pushed rearward until it bottoms out against the fan.

The front of the driveshaft will be clear of the Engine splines.

Push the front of the driveshaft upward to clear the engine splines then push forward.

Now the rear of the driveshaft will drop down and the shaft can be extracted by moving rearward.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now time to change out the u-joints. I used a cheap hydraulic press. Best to watch a youtube video on how to remove and install u-joints. Or take to a driveshaft shop.

JD sells the u-joint kit. Circlips are not included!

The circlips on the u-joints are the external type. You will need a small circlip plier to compress them and remove.
 

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Good job and nice write up :bigthumb: about what I remember seeing when BIL and myself removed driveshaft to change bracket holding the fan. What a PIA getting the final clip on after putting the driveshaft back in place. Shop foreman ( good friend) stopped with longer needle nose pliers had in back on within 10-15secs. I had tried guessing close to 2 1/2-3 hrs..:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
After installing the u-joints I greased them. They come preloaded with grease. The grease is clear almost like vaseline.

The caps on the old u-joints had dots of grease where I had attempted to grease them, but no grease made it into the needle bearings.

Make sure you mark all the orientations of front, rear, and note proper orientation of grease fittings etc.

Now the driveshaft can be installed in reverse order.

From rear- up and forward with shaft.

Over the top of the engine shaft

Then push the shaft rearward onto the trans shaft.

Then orient the roll pin hole and move the shaft forward onto the engine shaft. (this was the toughest part of install. Hard to see and get the splines to match up)

Then drive in the roll-pin

Squeeze the Circlip and slide rearward into the driveshaft groove.

Total time was about 4 hrs.

Removal was quick.
Changing the u-joints out was a pita
Installation was quick with exception of getting the front splines to match up
 

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A) great write up
B) nice guards, I see you know enventive on eBay.....I have same guards.
C) will ship my tractor to you shortly seeing as you have it down.:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good job and nice write up :bigthumb: about what I remember seeing when BIL and myself removed driveshaft to change bracket holding the fan. What a PIA getting the final clip on after putting the driveshaft back in place. Shop foreman ( good friend) stopped with longer needle nose pliers had in back on within 10-15secs. I had tried guessing close to 2 1/2-3 hrs..:banghead::banghead::banghead:
Gene- Think the secret is to open the circlip just enough to move it forward out of the groove. Then just let it hang on the engine shaft.
If you try to squeeze it and push it over the driveshaft it certainly will be difficult.

And really that roll pin is in there pretty darn good, doubt it is ever going to just "fly out"....makes you wonder why (as many have asked) there is not a bolt and nut?
 

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This is awesome thank you for sharing.

Big thing now is to convince the spousal unit that I need a car lift since that look like it made the process much easier. My plan os to put up on jack stands and and use a creeper. Also all my blades are intact on my fan but I would assume it gets brittle over time like all plastics so is it best to replace since the shaft is pulled?
 

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Very nice write up with pictures. You know how we all like pictures! I have a 2305 with about same amount of hours and the same guards. I lube my u-joints at least 2 or 3 times a year in hoping that I will not have to repair my drive shaft like others have had to do.

Doug
 

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Very informative post. I should in a couple weeks when I remove the snow blower check and lube the fittings. The drive shaft ones are the worst to get at. I can see how guys can over look the drive shaft fittings. There has been some good discussion on gaining access to them. I remove the floor and lower plastic column cover to gain access from the top. I put all stainless screws so everything disassembles and goes back together easy. Also use never seize. This old body is not happy under side on the garage floor.

I have not got into checking it out but I'm assuming the one series is pretty much the same driveshaft as two series arrangement with the retaining clips and pins......... yes ,no?

Drive shaft u joints on 1 and 2 series the same size?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So after doing this procedure, several things to offer.

First- it's like the fear of the unknown but once done it is remarkable how simple to remove this driveshaft.

Second- I honestly think I can remove this shaft in less than ten minutes. And the fan in another 5 (looks like 4 bolts to remove).

Third- I was shocked at how tiny these ujoints are :gaah:

Lastly- Probably the easiest way to lube the u-joints. With the shaft off a standard grease fitting snaps right on.




Part Numbers for 2305 Tractor

JD Spider kit (need 2) - LVA 803335
Spider Joint Internal Snap Ring (need 8)- CH14607
External shaft Snap-Ring- 40M4624
Roll Pin (inner) - CH10891
Roll Pin (outer) - CH12304
 

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What a great post. Thanks for it. what is this fan everybody talks about?? Does my 1025R have one?? Back on topic thanks for the time posting this, its very informative even to us non mechanics:good2:
 

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It's not clear to me what you did and why you did it.

A U-joint that is meant to be periodically lubricated will have a zerk fitting in the trunnion - the cross shaped piece that ties the two halves of the joint together. The trunnion will be hollow and the grease will be forced out the ends of it and into the bearing cups. You know when you've lubed it enough when grease oozes out around the dust seals of the cups. I didn't see any zerk fittings in the photos.

Many U joints are sealed and do not require lubrication during their life. You replace 'em when they wear out. Disassembly can lead to losing needles from the bearing cups or the introduction of dirt that will accelerate wear.

Nice documentation, BTW. I like it when folks take the time to photograph the steps of their work. Wish I could be as disciplined.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
It's not clear to me what you did and why you did it.

A U-joint that is meant to be periodically lubricated will have a zerk fitting in the trunnion - the cross shaped piece that ties the two halves of the joint together. The trunnion will be hollow and the grease will be forced out the ends of it and into the bearing cups. You know when you've lubed it enough when grease oozes out around the dust seals of the cups. I didn't see any zerk fittings in the photos.

Many U joints are sealed and do not require lubrication during their life. You replace 'em when they wear out. Disassembly can lead to losing needles from the bearing cups or the introduction of dirt that will accelerate wear.

Nice documentation, BTW. I like it when folks take the time to photograph the steps of their work. Wish I could be as disciplined.

Al
What I did- refer to the thread title- Removed Driveshaft, replaced U-joints.
Why-
On the 2305 there are zerks in these u-joints. I just didn't picture them.
The reason I pulled the shaft was - I am the second owner and have put about 40 hrs on the tractor. Tractor has 400hrs.
My service records do not indicate these u-joints were ever greased.
The location of the zerks precipitates using a needle fitting, or semi round fitting to service on the machine. You rally cannot manipulate the gun/zerks to snap on a normal fitting. When using both I really could not tell how much grease I was able to pump into the joint. The grease did not squeeze out of the caps.
From what I have read, when these joints seize/fail they could possibly cause the driveshaft yoke to break and collateral damage from the shaft flailing around including transmission case destruction. Yikes!
Replacement driveshaft is $$$ 800-1000$
Therefore I decided to pull the shaft and change the joints.
Glad I did as the grease in the needle bearings was all dried.

For additional info, here is the thread concerning lubricating driveshaft ujoints on the 2305 http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/1682-2305-john-deere-drive-shaft-lubrication.html

Pic of the old u-joint showing zerk. Cut off a quadrant and the grease in the trunion was rock hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What a great post. Thanks for it. what is this fan everybody talks about?? Does my 1025R have one?? Back on topic thanks for the time posting this, its very informative even to us non mechanics:good2:
Not an expert on all the models. The 2305 has a transmission cooling fan mounted on the driveshaft. The plastic fan (and trans filter) are exposed to any branches or debris which can cause damage. Aftermarket shields are available. You can see the fan in this picture.
Second picture shows the fan guard and filter guard.

I believe the 1025 uses a transmission oil cooler.
 

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I am in same boat as you bought last year at 400hrs now has 450. I think I will pull and grease well and check for slop in bearings while I have off. I need a long punch and needle nose and I will be all set. Should be fun. Based on other posts, Damage if the rear fails is in the thosusands if it breaks the housing so an once of prevention is worth it.

I was responsible for a drive shaft plant for a few years automotive. We friction welded parts to the tubes and then assembled and staked the bearings. They were permenant only fix was a new shaft.
 

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What I did- refer to the thread title- Removed Driveshaft, replaced U-joints.
Why-
On the 2305 there are zerks in these u-joints. I just didn't picture them.

{snip}

Pic of the old u-joint showing zerk. Cut off a quadrant and the grease in the trunion was rock hard.
OK, for some reason I was thinking you removed the driveshaft to lubricate the U joints which was like whaaaat?

And yes, a tractor develops a LOT of torque so something will break if they seize, though I would think the joint would make plenty of noise before it got to that point!

Al
 

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It's not clear to me what you did and why you did it.

A U-joint that is meant to be periodically lubricated will have a zerk fitting in the trunnion - the cross shaped piece that ties the two halves of the joint together. The trunnion will be hollow and the grease will be forced out the ends of it and into the bearing cups. You know when you've lubed it enough when grease oozes out around the dust seals of the cups. I didn't see any zerk fittings in the photos.

Many U joints are sealed and do not require lubrication during their life. You replace 'em when they wear out. Disassembly can lead to losing needles from the bearing cups or the introduction of dirt that will accelerate wear.

Nice documentation, BTW. I like it when folks take the time to photograph the steps of their work. Wish I could be as disciplined.

Al
You will lube the drive shaft of the 2210 and 2305 or in about 800 hours the drive shaft will explode on you. Ask me how I know. Mine made it 950 or so. There are zerk fitting there, or least mine has some.

The OP has a nice write up. I wish my 2210 was that easy to service but there is a plate underneath where the U joint hooks onto the engine so....it is a PIA to remove the driveshaft. That 4 post lift looks like it is the bomb too! Great write up.
 
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