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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen:
Thank you for adding me. This site and a couple of others have been invaluable to me in deciding to move up to a 2006 JD 2305 from using a Model 96 Electric since 1988 and that combined with a 210 since I've been mowing and snow removing on two properties for that past 10 years. After assessing my present and anticipated future needs, I settled on pursuing a 2210, but found the newer 2305 at a really good price and sitting at 493 hours. My initial assessment was that it basically looked and functioned as new, but with a rather extreme amount of dust in the engine compartment and caked-on farm dirt around the transmission that a "walk-around" pressure wash would not touch. Once cleaned up, the machine looked like new.
I hope I am posting this correctly:
Before getting into my current problem I'll mention that besides the cleaning I immediately did all fluid changes, lube, filters, alternator belt, etc. so that I'd have a known starting point. With a February purchase however, this was done in conjunction with an immediate repair requiring getting into the pedestal area as the battery currently in the tractor was the wrong size, and after getting one start out of it once home, it fried itself -- literally. It was actually hissing and oozing. However, with the new battery and after a half a day's use doing mulch once the weather was better, the charge indicator light quit coming on, and the battery drained down after probably 40 stops and starts. On that issue, your postings were invaluable in diagnosing and fixing the problem, as I suspect that the old battery had triggered the reverse-polarity protection circuit. After replacing two diodes and the voltage regulator (purchased from an E-Bay vendor obviously tired of paying $280 at Deere) I was good to go, and thankful for the opportunity to clean LOTS more dust from around all of the densely-packed electrical connections. I ended up getting very familiar with the electrical system.
All of that involved removing the steering wheel, which I did with a gear puller as recommended in the shop and service manual, which brings me to my head-scratcher of a problem. I use a steering knob, so I had gotten one for this tractor. But even before the disassembly, the knob often did not return to exactly the same place as its "center." In the 15 hours I've used the tractor, it seemed to stay within 180 degrees one way or the other, seeming to go back and forth. However, the tractor's other drawback that I have discovered is several small punctures in the otherwise new-looking front tires. But since the previous owner obviously used "green goo" I've never had them go down all the way, and certainly never in one day. I've followed advice seen here to keep them closer to 30 psi when using the loader, and when driving between properties last night the right front tire started going down more quickly than ever before. As a result, constant, slight steering pressure to the left was needed, and I was ASTOUNDED that by the time I got home, I counted that the steering wheel had turned counter-clockwise 4 1/2 times!
Quickly getting into the shop and service manual, everything checks out. It will go stop to stop, but at each stop, if I continue to exert pressure, the steering wheel itself slowly continues to turn. The manual says at p. 323 under #8 for "steering wheel spins freely" that there are three possible causes. The nut was torqued so it isn't that being loose, and the control unit is certainly not loose. Absolutely nothing is leaking, either. Therefore, I'm down to "Steering wheel and/or shaft splines worn or stripped."
Looking at the exploded view on p. 319, it appears to show a "female" end in the "Steering Control Unit" to received such splines, but there are no splines showing on the steering shaft itself. Before trying to do a teardown, I'm just wondering if anyone else has run into this problem, and if so, what part had gone bad, and does opening it up to the point of pulling that shaft mean opening up the entire hydraulic system itself? Unless there was something wrong with the metal used, it seems impossible to think that a splined shaft always held within a "female" receiving end could wear to the point that things would be slipping like that. Thanks in advance for any input! :usa
 
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Hydraulic steering systems will NEVER maintain a "center" there is always fluid leaking around something in the system, especially lock to lock. How far of a drive was it that you noticed this? I highly doubt that the splines are stripped in the steering shaft. If you have any problem it would be seals in the steering motor or in the steering cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. It is just over a mile and a half on mostly perfect blacktop. So there could be something leaking past the seals internally that never shows outside of the mechanism due to the return of fluid flow as described in the manual? If that is the problem, then what is the consequence of continuing to use the tractor like that -- what could it damage?
 

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most scout tractors will do that. You have no direct connection between the tires and the steering wheel
 

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As others mentioned, that is completely normal for hydrostatic steering systems.

Welcome to GTT:good2:
 

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:wgtt: congrats on upgraded :greentractorride:

Please look on ebay, fan and hydro filter guards as they are still available, if your machine does not have them and you think you might need them.
They are custom made for the tractor and work well....
 

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Yep, there is no real stop to stop for the steering. You will feel a stop but it's not like you car. Your steering knob will always be at a different place every time you use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so much to all of you for helping me to learn more and to breathe easier! I guess I was figuring that out from looking at the design, and yet just couldn't quite believe that there wasn't a mechanical "center" in there somehow after all of the years of NOT having any power steering. Thanks also for the heads up on the trans filter guard and fan guards. That reminded me to check again on Ebay, as I had looked at those after buying the tractor and the last one had sold out the day before I decided to go ahead and get it after spending time changing that filter and having it really brought up just how exposed it is there. Does someone on this forum make those? Finally, thanks also for the welcome! I have a family history with John Deere, and beyond their quality and being loyal to an Iowa and Illinois company, there is just so much additional good ol' American ingenuity in what I am reading here that it reminds me of why I am proud to be an American.
:usa:bigthumb::clapping:
 
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The guy on ebay that makes the guards is "enventive" think you can send him a message and he will let you know when he is going to make the next lot...He is a good guy to work with, but I would guess the call for these items is slowing down.
Good luck and enjoy that 2305....I am going on 6 years with mine and love it:good2:


PS he also makes a guard for the fan, in case you did not know.....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again, fdmars, on the mention of "enventive" on Ebay. And yes, I have been looking for both. It's really amazing how close the 62C MMM comes to the trans filter when lifted. I haven't tried it but one wonders of jarring the deck back while trying to drive over a hump could be enough to hit the filter!

On another question (perhaps I should start a new thread...as I don't know the etiquette quite yet) what is the deal on Model 47 Snowblowers fitting between different kinds of machines? The very helpful website at sponsor Mutton Power (see Used John Deere 47" & 54" Snow Blower Buying Guide) indicates that cross matching may be difficult. On the other hand, I have seen used blowers advertised as coming off of a 2720, for instance, and the seller says it will fit on a 2305. "It will fit" doesn't really clearly say whether he means "without further parts of modification." Any input would be helpful as that's the one thing I need to complete my setup, and there aren't many used ones out there..... :banghead:
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Update: FDMARS I was finally able to acquire the filter and fan guards from Enventive. Talk about well-made and precisely-designed! Not much room for error there at all, but everything was bent and welded perfectly to fit. Thanks again!
 
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When I put the spinner on my 2305 steering wheel I learned that there was no center position - after I adjusted it a few times till I realized it wasn't me.
 
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