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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2305 John Deere year 2010 compact tractor and like many others on here when I turn the key to start it it fires off then dies. It began as I would have to wiggle my hi/lo selector to get it to run this went on for quite some time now it finally quit although it still runs if I hold the key on. I’ve done a few things that were suggested like take off the rear tire to get to some wires and did what I was supposed to do(forgot what that was) it would start after that just not run UNLESS I held the key on. I also replaced the solenoid and one diode still have the same problem. It will turn over and run if I hold the key on but that’s it. Oh it appears the lights on the dash don’t work when you turn that first click of the key I believe that does something else too? Glow plugs and Or fuel pump? I’ve checked the fuses all good. I’m going crazy. Please any one have some suggestions?
 

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Sounds like lack of fuel. A couple of things come to mind. Restricted fuel tank outlet? Is the fuel bowl full? If not remove the feed line and fuel cap and lightly blow some compressed air back into the tank to dislodge debris.

Another possibility is the diode that powers the fuel control solenoid is bad. It's buried in the wiring harness and is only a ~$7.00 part. The hardest oart of this repair is finding it.

Here's some homework for you: https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/gtsearch.php?q=2305%20starts%20but%20won%27t%20run

:good2:
 

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I'd bet it's the diode like Frank mentioned.

Welcome to GTT.
 

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i thought in his first post he said he replaced a diode-:unknown:it sure sounds like a bad diode--acts just like how my 2520 did--lack of fuel. mine would run on a small bit of crack---i cracked my injector lines-but i couldn't get no fuel out of em. i loaded it up and took it to the dealer---turned out it was a diode:banghead: i don't think they was 7 bucks back then, but it has been several yrs now-and things are going up in price.:nunu:
 

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i thought in his first post he said he replaced a diode-:unknown:it sure sounds like a bad diode--acts just like how my 2520 did--lack of fuel. mine would run on a small bit of crack---i cracked my injector lines-but i couldn't get no fuel out of em. i loaded it up and took it to the dealer---turned out it was a diode:banghead: i don't think they was 7 bucks back then, but it has been several yrs now-and things are going up in price.:nunu:
But aren’t there multiple diodes? Maybe the OP changed one that wasn’t the one that went bad?
 

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I haven't checked but thinking 4 diodes might only be 3.:dunno:
 

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Might be too simple

This might be too simple but I'd check the switch. Possibly the starting position is good and running juice to the fuel system but the run position is not.

It's a thought anyway and it should be possible to bypass the switch with a jumper on the right pins.

Treefarmer
 

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But aren’t there multiple diodes? Maybe the OP changed one that wasn’t the one that went bad?
yeah that's possible i suppose--but IIRC---the jd tech showed me my old one -and u could see it was burnt out--so i just figured if he said he changed one then it was bad.

maybe he has a couple bad ones:dunno:

i'm thinking the 2520's has 6 diodes:dunno:would have to look that up to be sure... very frustrating to have ur tractor not run -to only find out one of them little buggers burned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks

Thanks guys and yes I changed the diode I will try the switch and see if that might be the problem. It’s not lack of fuel because if I hold the key in the start position it will stay running,as soon as I let off it dies. I’m headed out to look at the key switch.
Thanks again.
 

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Thanks guys and yes I changed the diode I will try the switch and see if that might be the problem. It’s not lack of fuel because if I hold the key in the start position it will stay running,as soon as I let off it dies. I’m headed out to look at the key switch.
Thanks again.
I am curious why holding the ignition switch doesn't keep the starter engaged and grind the ring gear? Unless I am missing something, it doesn't sound like the switch is functioning correctly.......

Is there a spring tension to the switch when you let off of it where it just goes to the "run" position from the "start" position?
 

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This might be too simple but I'd check the switch. Possibly the starting position is good and running juice to the fuel system but the run position is not.

It's a thought anyway and it should be possible to bypass the switch with a jumper on the right pins.

Treefarmer
I think you are on to something here.....I have seen the switches "separate" over time and somewhat "turn within themselves? or at least they are loose to the ignition bezel. But having to hold the key on would indicate to me the switch is defective.....

To the OP, the key's are not unique to your machine, most keys interchange, the main thing is making sure the switch properly plugs into the wiring harness in the dash of the tractor.....

Also, carefully check the harness as sometimes, the pins in the plugs get pulled back out of the plug with vibration or someone putting pressure on the wires and it pulls the pin back just enough to cause it not to work correctly or at all. In some cases, its simply a matter of cleaning the plug and checking the switch and plug for any corrosion or the wires not fully seated which impacts the pins in the plug. Look it over carefully.

Also, count the number of wires on the back of the plug and make sure there are the same number of corresponding pins and attachment points on the switch so everything is making contact. Spray the plug and the switch with die electric grease once you have cleaned it to make sure the connection is solid.....

Please make sure to tell us what you find or don't find as you work through this so this thread and your experiences may help an0ther some day.

Thanks.....SB
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes it goes back to run

I am curious why holding the ignition switch doesn't keep the starter engaged and grind the ring gear? Unless I am missing something, it doesn't sound like the switch is functioning correctly.......

Is there a spring tension to the switch when you let off of it where it just goes to the "run" position from the "start" position?
Ya it goes back to run. I changed the diodes and no matter where I put the new one it still didn’t make a difference. I guess I’m going to try replacing the switch.
 

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Jumper across the contacts

Ya it goes back to run. I changed the diodes and no matter where I put the new one it still didn’t make a difference. I guess I’m going to try replacing the switch.
You should be able to put in a temporary jumper across the wires on the run position or just test the switch with an ohm meter rather than replacing it.

Switches normally aren't very expensive but no point in buying parts you don't need and electrical components usually aren't returnable.

Treefarmer
 
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