[Hotfeet]

Snagged a root with the hydraulic line (part #LVA802862) coming of the outside of my filter. It pulled out of its bracket and into my u-joint which promptly wore a hole into it. Got the replacement pipe in from my local dealer and started digging into the tractor to remove offending part but I think the green engineers designed the whole tractor around this one pipe. So far I’ve taken out the seat and the plate directly underneath it, loosening the bracket that holds the scv and lever ( because the pipe terminated directly below it). So the pipe is disconnected but it won’t snake out of there. Off comes the left rear wheel - no luck, off with the right rear wheel, negative, taking off the floor board which means also the brake pedals, lower and upper dash boards. Now the right rear fender which means the Rops has got to go in the morning. When does it end? Wish I had just had a flexible hose made up on day one and just cut that pipe out. Wish John Deere made a repair manual available to customers. Any insights would be very much appreciated. PS This is a field repair. Wish it weren’t so but too late. Learning the hard way on my first tractor. lol

 

[Kennyd]

John Deere does make a technical manual for your machine, it's TM2388. You can look JD Techpubs or at other places like Green Farm Parts.

https://techpubs.deere.com/Products/ProductSearch.aspx

https://greenfarmparts.com/?s=TM2388

 

[Jester_2320]

I have the tech manual at home. I’ll take a look to see if I can find anything helpful


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[Jester_2320]

I was not able to find anything specific in the tech manual for that specific line replacement. To remove the pump its attached to, the right fender, seat, floor boards all have to be removed. The same schematic posted is also listed in the file but thats all there is. sorry.

 

[Hotfeet]

View attachment 682758

I was not able to find anything specific in the tech manual for that specific line replacement. To remove the pump its attached to, the right fender, seat, floor boards all have to be removed. The same schematic posted is also listed in the file but thats all there is. sorry.

Hey, Thanks for looking. Got the fender and floor board off and the pipe would still not snake out. Decided enough is enough and and just cut both banjo ends off. Got a flexible hose being made up with the banjos from the original pipe and rerouting over the top and away from the drive shaft. This is my first attempt at mechanics other than doing the 50 hour service. Hope I can get it all back together. lol.

I did notice little white paint dashes next to multiple bolts as I was disassembling this thing. Do those indicate something like maybe loctite was used. Maybe some markings left by previous mechanic or factory? I could write a book on what I don’t know about tractors. lol. Will try to post photo. Put the wrong one up on this reply and don’t know how to take it down. Thanks again for looking. What a mess for one little piece of twisted pipe.

 

[Hotfeet]

John Deere does make a technical manual for your machine, it's TM2388. You can look JD Techpubs or at other places like Green Farm Parts.

https://techpubs.deere.com/Products/ProductSearch.aspx

https://greenfarmparts.com/?s=TM2388

Thanks, I knew they had a tech manual but I think the full blown repair manual is only available to dealers. If so it would seem they really want our business in a not so good way. Thanks for the info anyways. Will probably have to buy one soon as it seems to be a necessary item. Saving my pennies.:gizmo:

 

[Jester_2320]

The white paint are torque marks from the factor showing they have been checked. Good luck with the reassembly. I’m sure you learned a few things along the way abs perhaps a few choice words.




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[Hotfeet]

The white paint are torque marks from the factor showing they have been checked. Good luck with the reassembly. I’m sure you learned a few things along the way abs perhaps a few choice words.




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I’m saving the choice words for reassembly. I have learned that I have no fondness in my heart for certain JD engineers. lol I actually bought this tractor from one. He was a nice guy, I think. So far I’ve ridden it for 40 hours and worked on about the same. Going into negative pleasure to work ratio tomorrow. Trying to look at it as an educational moment. Looks like it has been blowing hydraulic fluid on the right side. Hoping a little tightening down on the banjo bolts will remedy this. Don’t have torque specs. Heck didn’t even know what a torque wrench was until a week ago. lol. Yup, learning a lot the hard way. Got to admit it’s a little fun and challenging too. Respect for true mechanics from a former college ceramics Professor. Still slinging mud, just off tractor tires now.

 

[Kennyd]

Thanks, I knew they had a tech manual but I think the full blown repair manual is only available to dealers.

I'm pretty sure its the same manuals that the dealers use, but I could be wrong. The ones I have are pretty extensive.

 

[69project]

I’m saving the choice words for reassembly. I have learned that I have no fondness in my heart for certain JD engineers. lol I actually bought this tractor from one. He was a nice guy, I think. So far I’ve ridden it for 40 hours and worked on about the same. Going into negative pleasure to work ratio tomorrow. Trying to look at it as an educational moment. Looks like it has been blowing hydraulic fluid on the right side. Hoping a little tightening down on the banjo bolts will remedy this. Don’t have torque specs. Heck didn’t even know what a torque wrench was until a week ago. lol. Yup, learning a lot the hard way. Got to admit it’s a little fun and challenging too. Respect for true mechanics from a former college ceramics Professor. Still slinging mud, just off tractor tires now.

Since you have it tore down, you might as well get some grease to the drive shaft U joints. That might save you some grief later. This sucks to have to do this in the field but keep grinding it will work out. :bigthumb:

 

[geoffrey brisson]

I would suggest a full inspection on the drive shaft u-joints, and if there is any cause for concern I would replace them now!!!!
You didn't say how many hours are on your 2320, but if the previous owner didn't have them greased and you weren't aware of service needed to them, it's best you read the very first discussion at the top of MCUT (service notice 2320).
All the best to you my friend.

 

[Hotfeet]

I would suggest a full inspection on the drive shaft u-joints, and if there is any cause for concern I would replace them now!!!!
You didn't say how many hours are on your 2320, but if the previous owner didn't have them greased and you weren't aware of service needed to them, it's best you read the very first discussion at the top of MCUT (service notice 2320).
All the best to you my friend.

I have 124 hrs on my 2009 2320. Bought it at 84 and read that post at 112. The tractor had been garage kept but never serviced to my knowledge at 50 hours. Serviced it myself and greased those zerks but couldn’t tell if the grease came out of all four caps. You can put money on me giving them another squirt while it’s torn down. Thanks for looking out for me. I did notice it seems they now sell a shaft that slides in on itself (shortens) for installation. Hopefully it also has better u-joints too. Any tricks to making sure all 4 caps get grease especially when they are almost completely out of sight. Is doing it with them warm preferable to charging them cold? Could a person just warm them up by just running the tractor and letting them spin. Seems like warm grease should be a little more fluid and easier to push through. Idk. Probably a stupid question but I am a total newbie to tractors and this kind of mechanics. A light torching would probably be out of the question as I believe there might be some plastic in the bearings.

I will tell you when I removed the hydro suction filter I used an extendable magnet on a stick to get all the small filing out of the interior of the screen and also out of the tractor cylinder. Picked up all the tiny filings great.

Raining here today and tractor is sitting in a clay field so I won’t be able to reassemble for days. Going to learn how to use blue loctite soon. Do you know if it gets used on the banjo bolts? Seems like that could be a no no. Trying hard not to kill the patient.lol

 

[Ducky]

No loctite on banjo bolts. New seals are preferred but not absolutely needed if the old ones aren’t damaged.

 

[Hotfeet]

No loctite on banjo bolts. New seals are preferred but not absolutely needed if the old ones aren’t damaged.

Thanks, Any idea on amount of torque? My JD tech manual is ordered but won’t be here for 7-10 days. Ordered the paper version for easier field repair.

 

[Hotfeet]

I'm pretty sure its the same manuals that the dealers use, but I could be wrong. The ones I have are pretty extensive.

Ordered paper version from JD yesterday.

 

[Hotfeet]

Since you have it tore down, you might as well get some grease to the drive shaft U joints. That might save you some grief later. This sucks to have to do this in the field but keep grinding it will work out. :bigthumb:

Just greased them 10 hours ago but will hit them again for good measure. Harbor Freight is making a killing off of this tractor. My tool box groweth. lol

 

[ThumperACC]

Thanks, Any idea on amount of torque? My JD tech manual is ordered but won’t be here for 7-10 days. Ordered the paper version for easier field repair.

First of all, someone did some nice brazing. :bigthumb:



Assuming this is the pipe in question...

I looked at the install part here ... but there was no torque spec provided. :banghead:

But I did find this section with torque specs for the various banjo bolts.
It should give you some idea.

Best of luck, hope this helps.
Thumper

 

[Hotfeet]

First of all, someone did some nice brazing. :bigthumb:



Assuming this is the pipe in question...

View attachment 683028



I looked at the install part here ... but there was no torque spec provided. :banghead:

View attachment 683030


But I did find this section with torque specs for the various banjo bolts.
It should give you some idea.

View attachment 683032


Best of luck, hope this helps.
Thumper

Thumper, Thank you for all of your help. I am floored by the generosity of your time in posting the pics and info. Yes, I do believe that is the offending H-line. I’m kinda glad I stopped where I did because I already feel like I’m in over my head and not sure that I could’ve managed the transaxle removal as I am no longer young or healthy. Hopefully the reroute with the hose will hold. I’m sure I couldn’t afford the shop hours at $105 per.

That pipe connection is seriously buried. I think they built the entire tractor around that one part. I’ll holler back at you if I manage to get her up and running. Will post photos of the reroute soon. Maybe it will save someone else this ordeal later.

BTW the banjo bolt head was centered directly under the scv bracket. No way of getting to it without removal. The pins or clips running through the three small bolts were all turned to the inside making them nearly impossible to remove. I’ll be turning that crap around to face the outside on reassembly. Will ask dealer for clarification on torque since I just shelled out 160 bucks for their unclear instructions.

Thanks again.

 

[Hotfeet]

Back to the drawing board.

Thumper, Thank you for all of your help. I am floored by the generosity of your time in posting the pics and info. Yes, I do believe that is the offending H-line. I’m kinda glad I stopped where I did because I already feel like I’m in over my head and not sure that I could’ve managed the transaxle removal as I am no longer young or healthy. Hopefully the reroute with the hose will hold. I’m sure I couldn’t afford the shop hours at $105 per.

That pipe connection is seriously buried. I think they built the entire tractor around that one part. I’ll holler back at you if I manage to get her up and running. Will post photos of the reroute soon. Maybe it will save someone else this ordeal later.

BTW the banjo bolt head was centered directly under the scv bracket. No way of getting to it without removal. The pins or clips running through the three small bolts were all turned to the inside making them nearly impossible to remove. I’ll be turning that crap around to face the outside on reassembly. Will ask dealer for clarification on torque since I just shelled out 160 bucks for their unclear instructions.

Thanks again.

Retooled line did not work. Hose Dr. is coming out to the tractor next week to hopefully make up one that will work on site. Pray for me. How hard is it to drop a transaxle and drive shaft in the field? Already returned the JD pipe to the dealer. Boy am I going to look crazy if I have to reorder it a second time. :flag_of_truce::lolol::banghead:

 

[balrog006]

Retooled line did not work.

How? Why not? What didn’t work?