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The tachometer on the 2320 is integral to the instrument panel and is mechanically driven by a cable going to the engine. I'm not quite sure exactly where it goes on the engine but the book says on the timing gear cover.

The tachometer is very similar to those used on the 2520, 2720 and Gen-1 2032R. I have read where there is a little gear on the rear of the instrument panel that can strip out. Despite being a tiny gear held on with a screw JD does not sell the gear separately.

You should be able to disconnect the cable from the instrument panel and verify that it spins when the engine is running.

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The tachometer on the 2320 is integral to the instrument panel and is mechanically driven by a cable going to the engine. I'm not quite sure exactly where it goes on the engine but it should be easy to trace out.

The tachometer is very similar to those used on the 2520, 2720 and Gen-1 2032R. I have read where there is a little gear on the rear of the instrument panel that can strip out. Despite being a tiny gear held on with a screw JD does not sell the gear separately.

You should be able to disconnect the cable from the instrument panel and verify that it spins when the engine is running.

View attachment 781814
The engines are different between the 2320 and 2520, but my 2520's tach drive is on the front of the block just above the water pump. As Jay said, it's no big problem to trace the cable. The end of the cable that fits into the tachometer drive has a pin with a slot; that slot fits over a blade on the tachometer drive gear, and a threaded collar screws to the drive housing. That is one point of failure, if that pin has broken off the flexible inner cable that turns when the engine runs.

What exactly did your tachometer do when it quit working? Did the needle bounce around like crazy, then quit? If so, the cable may have broken, or the gear inside the tach stripped. The tach on my 2520 broke last Fall, so I took the cable off, and sure enough it was broken as I described above. However, something had to bind the cable for it to break like that. The inside of the cable was very well lubricated and turned freely, so it had to be something inside the tach itself. To remove the cluster, you first remove the steering wheel, then there are a couple of 10mm bolts where the steering column passes through beneath the cluster. There are a couple more on each side at the edge of the bodywork where the hood adjoins. Once those panels are removed (takes about 5 minutes), the cluster is accessible and there are 4 bolts that hold it to the frame. I posted a repair thread somewhere in the Medium frame compact forum, I'll try to find it and link it for you. You may get lucky and the tachometer itself is okay, but needs a lube job, which is what was wrong with mine. The whole cluster is several hundred dollars, the cable is about $45.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
The engines are different between the 2320 and 2520, but my 2520's tach drive is on the front of the block just above the water pump. As Jay said, it's no big problem to trace the cable. The end of the cable that fits into the tachometer drive has a pin with a slot; that slot fits over a blade on the tachometer drive gear, and a threaded collar screws to the drive housing. That is one point of failure, if that pin has broken off the flexible inner cable that turns when the engine runs.

What exactly did your tachometer do when it quit working? Did the needle bounce around like crazy, then quit? If so, the cable may have broken, or the gear inside the tach stripped. The tach on my 2520 broke last Fall, so I took the cable off, and sure enough it was broken as I described above. However, something had to bind the cable for it to break like that. The inside of the cable was very well lubricated and turned freely, so it had to be something inside the tach itself. To remove the cluster, you first remove the steering wheel, then there are a couple of 10mm bolts where the steering column passes through beneath the cluster. There are a couple more on each side at the edge of the bodywork where the hood adjoins. Once those panels are removed (takes about 5 minutes), the cluster is accessible and there are 4 bolts that hold it to the frame. I posted a repair thread somewhere in the Medium frame compact forum, I'll try to find it and link it for you. You may get lucky and the tachometer itself is okay, but needs a lube job, which is what was wrong with mine. The whole cluster is several hundred dollars, the cable is about $45.
Thanks for the info, Geo.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My tach is not working. Any ideas why? thanks Geo,
So I got into it today. Lucky me. it seems that the cable that goes into the piece by the water pump had come out. ( pics of the area) All I had to do was loosen up the retainer ( zip tie) and re position it pushing the cable end back into the unit coming off the pump. It now works. Thanks for all the advice offered. Geo.
 

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You got lucky!

Thanks for letting us know your results. So many people don’t bother.....
 

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You got lucky!

Thanks for letting us know your results. So many people don’t bother.....
^^^^^ This!! Go get yourself a lottery ticket! :)
 

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So I got into it today. Lucky me. it seems that the cable that goes into the piece by the water pump had come out. ( pics of the area) All I had to do was loosen up the retainer ( zip tie) and re position it pushing the cable end back into the unit coming off the pump. It now works. Thanks for all the advice offered. Geo.
Glad it wasn't worse (expensive).
 
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