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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Like everyone else I hate greasing the u joints. I only do it like once a year. Several members, crna for one, has done the u joint replacement, but none have written it up for the rest of us on the forum. Since it was time to grease the u joints, i decided just to change them out. Four auto parts stores here didn't have a one, so I had to order some in.

u joints:
Napa #: UJ410 The ones I finally got.
Others I found while doing research. I can't confirm they will work
Moog 410
Kubota # 37410-13722
IMGP1715.JPG

Must have Tools:
10, 12, 13, 21 mm sockets
4-6 inch c clamps
5 mm allen wrench
1/8, 3/16 pin punches
Snap ring pliers: I got a channellock 927 for the job. came with several tips and can go external or internal. Could have used longer grips on them my only complaint. Stupid hole way to small.

IMGP1726.JPG

1. Dissemble the plastic cover on the steering wheel console like you were going to grease the u joint. If you are this far just a little more and you'll be at the drive shaft.

2. Unhook the cruise control and parking brake levers. @# cotter pins were wrapped around the bolt and were a pain to get out. When I reassembled these I used a hair pin clip.

IMGP1724.JPG

3. Unplugged the 3 wiring harnesses.
4. Lift and remove lower steering plastic cover
5. Unbolt six 12 mm floor bolts
6. Remove brakes, fwd, and reverse pedals. TIP: Don't use your Milwuakee m18 driver on the 5mm allen wrench bolt head. One came out fine the other stripped. Had to go and get an ez out
IMGP1717.JPG
7. gently pry up deck height adjustment knob
8. Remove the knob under seat
9. Lift up and remove floor. TIP: Use a paint pen to write on shafts and mark the yoke ends so you can reassemble them correctly
IMGP1716.JPG
Spray shafts, and pins with penetrating liquid. Why did JD have to attach shaft to the front u joint. The rear one would have been just as good and quite easy to work on. But no, JD engineers are sadists. Let make these suckers work in a tiny 3 in opening.
https://greenfarmparts.com/parts-diagram/#/John_Deere/2320_Compact_Utility_Tractor_-PC9499/DRIVE_SHAFT%3a_POWER_TRAIN/94990002/9499D471C0405000006
see parts diagram on bottom of page

10. Use the snap ring pliers with 90 degree tips. Use every cuss word in the book and vow to track down the jd engineers are do grievous bodily harm to them.
12. Spray pins and spindles with penetrating liquid
13. use 1/8 punch to tap out small pin. I added a ratchet extension to the punch to give it more reach. Swear to invent time machine and go back in time and kill jd engineer's father to prevent birth.
IMGP1718.JPG
14. use 3/16 punch for larger pin with ratchet extension
15. try to remove shaft by sliding back and forth. Fail miserably, still needs 1/4 inch to come off. Go have a beer and have lunch. Curse jd engineer's mother for giving birth to the SOB.
16. Pull snap rings of rear u joint yokes.
17. Use hammer and 13 mm socket to tap caps off rear u joint yoke on one side. Rear u joint now free.
18. Slide off both front and rear yokes
19. Remove remaining snap rings and remove old u joints from shaft. I used hammer 13, 21 mm sockets and 4-6 inch c clamps to do this.
IMGP1719.JPG
20 Clean up old grease from yokes.
21 install new u joint in the front. I removed the grease zerk while doing this. TIP: Also, check the grease zerk shaft make sure it isn't too long and will bottom out on joint pin. I used 13mm socket and c clamps
IMGP1720.JPG
IMGP1721.JPG
22. Install new u joint in rear yoke like with front one, but only do one side. I did the short one.
23. Side shaft with new front u joint back on fly wheel
24. Tap pins back in hole. TIP: I used my ratchet extension and smallest socket I had to get them started in the hole. Decide jd engineers must be the devil incarnate here on earth. This is definetely next level torture trying to working in this small hole
25 Now put the PITA snap ring back on. Again curse, swear vengeance, make mental note to buy lots JD stock so I do a hostile take over of JD and fire the engineers.
26 Slide small rear yoke on transmission spindle
27 Assemble rear u joint with 13 mm socket and c clamp
IMGP1722.JPG
28 grease zerks to make sure they work. YEAH BABY!!!
IMGP1723.JPG
29 reassmble tractor. TIP: Make sure the parking brake shaft is on top of floor.
IMGP1725.JPG

Like I said working on the front u joint in that tiny hole is a major PITA. Took 5-6 hours with a couple of trips to hardware store. Old u joint caps could have used more frequent greasing they were a little dry.
 

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Nice work, pruav. If I get the u-joints and a large amount of beer, you can do mine any time. The original setup is an assinine way to drive the hydrostat. Because I don't like Japanese cars, I prefer to blame the design on the same people who brought us Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Subaru and the rest of them. Having said that, are the 1025R and new 2025R made the same way? If so, we need to go back to cursing the JD engineers for not learning from their first mistake.

Thanks for the detailed explanation, tool list and pictures.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Like everyone else I hate greasing the u joints. I only do it like once a year. Several members, crna for one, has done the u joint replacement, but none have written it up for the rest of us on the forum. Since it was time to grease the u joints, i decided just to change them out. Four auto parts stores here didn't have a one, so I had to order some in.

u joints:
Napa #: UJ410 The ones I finally got.
Others I found while doing research. I can't confirm they will work
Moog 410
Kubota # 37410-13722
View attachment 686676

Must have Tools:
10, 12, 13, 21 mm sockets
4-6 inch c clamps
5 mm allen wrench
1/8, 3/16 pin punches
Snap ring pliers: I got a channellock 927 for the job. came with several tips and can go external or internal. Could have used longer grips on them my only complaint. Stupid hole way to small.

View attachment 686678

1. Dissemble the plastic cover on the steering wheel console like you were going to grease the u joint. If you are this far just a little more and you'll be at the drive shaft.

2. Unhook the cruise control and parking brake levers. @# cotter pins were wrapped around the bolt and were a pain to get out. When I reassembled these I used a hair pin clip.

View attachment 686680

3. Unplugged the 3 wiring harnesses.
4. Lift and remove lower steering plastic cover
5. Unbolt six 12 mm floor bolts
6. Remove brakes, fwd, and reverse pedals. TIP: Don't use your Milwuakee m18 driver on the 5mm allen wrench bolt head. One came out fine the other stripped. Had to go and get an ez out
View attachment 686682
7. gently pry up deck height adjustment knob
8. Remove the knob under seat
9. Lift up and remove floor. TIP: Use a paint pen to write on shafts and mark the yoke ends so you can reassemble them correctly
View attachment 686690
Spray shafts, and pins with penetrating liquid. Why did JD have to attach shaft to the front u joint. The rear one would have been just as good and quite easy to work on. But no, JD engineers are sadists. Let make these suckers work in a tiny 3 in opening.
https://greenfarmparts.com/parts-diagram/#/John_Deere/2320_Compact_Utility_Tractor_-PC9499/DRIVE_SHAFT%3a_POWER_TRAIN/94990002/9499D471C0405000006
see parts diagram on bottom of page

10. Use the snap ring pliers with 90 degree tips. Use every cuss word in the book and vow to track down the jd engineers are do grievous bodily harm to them.
12. Spray pins and spindles with penetrating liquid
13. use 1/8 punch to tap out small pin. I added a ratchet extension to the punch to give it more reach. Swear to invent time machine and go back in time and kill jd engineer's father to prevent birth.
View attachment 686686
14. use 3/16 punch for larger pin with ratchet extension
15. try to remove shaft by sliding back and forth. Fail miserably, still needs 1/4 inch to come off. Go have a beer and have lunch. Curse jd engineer's mother for giving birth to the SOB.
16. Pull snap rings of rear u joint yokes.
17. Use hammer and 13 mm socket to tap caps off rear u joint yoke on one side. Rear u joint now free.
18. Slide off both front and rear yokes
19. Remove remaining snap rings and remove old u joints from shaft. I used hammer 13, 21 mm sockets and 4-6 inch c clamps to do this.
View attachment 686688
20 Clean up old grease from yokes.
21 install new u joint in the front. I removed the grease zerk while doing this. TIP: Also, check the grease zerk shaft make sure it isn't too long and will bottom out on joint pin. I used 13mm socket and c clamps
View attachment 686692
View attachment 686702
22. Install new u joint in rear yoke like with front one, but only do one side. I did the short one.
23. Side shaft with new front u joint back on fly wheel
24. Tap pins back in hole. TIP: I used my ratchet extension and smallest socket I had to get them started in the hole. Decide jd engineers must be the devil incarnate here on earth. This is definetely next level torture trying to working in this small hole
25 Now put the PITA snap ring back on. Again curse, swear vengeance, make mental note to buy lots JD stock so I do a hostile take over of JD and fire the engineers.
26 Slide small rear yoke on transmission spindle
27 Assemble rear u joint with 13 mm socket and c clamp
View attachment 686696
28 grease zerks to make sure they work. YEAH BABY!!!
View attachment 686698
29 reassmble tractor. TIP: Make sure the parking brake shaft is on top of floor.
View attachment 686700

Like I said working on the front u joint in that tiny hole is a major PITA. Took 5-6 hours with a couple of trips to hardware store. Old u joint caps could have used more frequent greasing they were a little dry.
Great write up, this is one of my winter projects for next year, so it’s definitely appreciated. I’m going to do a bunch of other projects at the same time so as not to “waste” all the disassembly time.

PS...love the extension and socket trick, as an old tech I can appreciate that type of ingenuity.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Nice work, pruav. If I get the u-joints and a large amount of beer, you can do mine any time. The original setup is an assinine way to drive the hydrostat. Because I don't like Japanese cars, I prefer to blame the design on the same people who brought us Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Subaru and the rest of them. Having said that, are the 1025R and new 2025R made the same way? If so, we need to go back to cursing the JD engineers for not learning from their first mistake.

Thanks for the detailed explanation, tool list and pictures.:thumbup1gif:

I only want to do is this one time. Hopefully now I'll never have to touch them again
 

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Very good documentation, and photos, thanks for sharing with us.
 

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Like everyone else I hate greasing the u joints. I only do it like once a year. Several members, crna for one, has done the u joint replacement, but none have written it up for the rest of us on the forum. Since it was time to grease the u joints, i decided just to change them out. Four auto parts stores here didn't have a one, so I had to order some in.

u joints:
Napa #: UJ410 The ones I finally got.
Others I found while doing research. I can't confirm they will work
Moog 410
Kubota # 37410-13722
View attachment 686676

Must have Tools:
10, 12, 13, 21 mm sockets
4-6 inch c clamps
5 mm allen wrench
1/8, 3/16 pin punches
Snap ring pliers: I got a channellock 927 for the job. came with several tips and can go external or internal. Could have used longer grips on them my only complaint. Stupid hole way to small.

View attachment 686678

1. Dissemble the plastic cover on the steering wheel console like you were going to grease the u joint. If you are this far just a little more and you'll be at the drive shaft.

2. Unhook the cruise control and parking brake levers. @# cotter pins were wrapped around the bolt and were a pain to get out. When I reassembled these I used a hair pin clip.

View attachment 686680

3. Unplugged the 3 wiring harnesses.
4. Lift and remove lower steering plastic cover
5. Unbolt six 12 mm floor bolts
6. Remove brakes, fwd, and reverse pedals. TIP: Don't use your Milwuakee m18 driver on the 5mm allen wrench bolt head. One came out fine the other stripped. Had to go and get an ez out
View attachment 686682
7. gently pry up deck height adjustment knob
8. Remove the knob under seat
9. Lift up and remove floor. TIP: Use a paint pen to write on shafts and mark the yoke ends so you can reassemble them correctly
View attachment 686690
Spray shafts, and pins with penetrating liquid. Why did JD have to attach shaft to the front u joint. The rear one would have been just as good and quite easy to work on. But no, JD engineers are sadists. Let make these suckers work in a tiny 3 in opening.
https://greenfarmparts.com/parts-diagram/#/John_Deere/2320_Compact_Utility_Tractor_-PC9499/DRIVE_SHAFT%3a_POWER_TRAIN/94990002/9499D471C0405000006
see parts diagram on bottom of page

10. Use the snap ring pliers with 90 degree tips. Use every cuss word in the book and vow to track down the jd engineers are do grievous bodily harm to them.
12. Spray pins and spindles with penetrating liquid
13. use 1/8 punch to tap out small pin. I added a ratchet extension to the punch to give it more reach. Swear to invent time machine and go back in time and kill jd engineer's father to prevent birth.
View attachment 686686
14. use 3/16 punch for larger pin with ratchet extension
15. try to remove shaft by sliding back and forth. Fail miserably, still needs 1/4 inch to come off. Go have a beer and have lunch. Curse jd engineer's mother for giving birth to the SOB.
16. Pull snap rings of rear u joint yokes.
17. Use hammer and 13 mm socket to tap caps off rear u joint yoke on one side. Rear u joint now free.
18. Slide off both front and rear yokes
19. Remove remaining snap rings and remove old u joints from shaft. I used hammer 13, 21 mm sockets and 4-6 inch c clamps to do this.
View attachment 686688
20 Clean up old grease from yokes.
21 install new u joint in the front. I removed the grease zerk while doing this. TIP: Also, check the grease zerk shaft make sure it isn't too long and will bottom out on joint pin. I used 13mm socket and c clamps
View attachment 686692
View attachment 686702
22. Install new u joint in rear yoke like with front one, but only do one side. I did the short one.
23. Side shaft with new front u joint back on fly wheel
24. Tap pins back in hole. TIP: I used my ratchet extension and smallest socket I had to get them started in the hole. Decide jd engineers must be the devil incarnate here on earth. This is definetely next level torture trying to working in this small hole
25 Now put the PITA snap ring back on. Again curse, swear vengeance, make mental note to buy lots JD stock so I do a hostile take over of JD and fire the engineers.
26 Slide small rear yoke on transmission spindle
27 Assemble rear u joint with 13 mm socket and c clamp
View attachment 686696
28 grease zerks to make sure they work. YEAH BABY!!!
View attachment 686698
29 reassmble tractor. TIP: Make sure the parking brake shaft is on top of floor.
View attachment 686700

Like I said working on the front u joint in that tiny hole is a major PITA. Took 5-6 hours with a couple of trips to hardware store. Old u joint caps could have used more frequent greasing they were a little dry.
I don't think it was JD engineers, it was Yanmar's who designed this. Instead of the roll pin and snap ring nightmare I used a small bolt and nut through the hole on my 2210 which has the same design. Nice write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Instead of the roll pin and snap ring nightmare I used a small bolt and nut through the hole on my 2210 which has the same design. Nice write up.
I didn't even think about adding a bolt. That would have saved me 30 minutes of cursing.
 

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Since this is a common enough issue, I've made this a sticky thread.

Also, please remember that we can reply without quoting please, that way we don't have to scroll through the pictures multiple times!!!!
 

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I can confirm that the Moog 410 U-joint works.
I have one of each NAPA and Moog in mine, as that's what they had in stock... :dunno:
 

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Would it have been possible to remove the three cap screws, key 5, from the flywheel then take the complete drive shaft out?
Then not have to take apart circlip, key 12, or remove pins, key 13 & 14. Maybe not have to pull the u-joint at the rear apart in place to get the drive shaft out?

Also is key 13 & 14, a roll pin inside a roll pin? I am surprised the JD engineers did not spec a special "JD only" pin for 10x the cost of key 13 &14 :gizmo:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Would it have been possible to remove the three cap screws, key 5, from the flywheel then take the complete drive shaft out?
Also is key 13 & 14, a roll pin inside a roll pin? I am surprised the JD engineers did not spec a special "JD only" pin for 10x the cost of key 13 &14 :gizmo:
I think there would be a lot more problems you would have to over come working in that small space. That still wouldn't give you enough clearance to get out drive shaft with extra length of the flywheel spindle still attached to the u joint. There is like 1-1.5 inches you can slide the driveshaft rearward until you hit the transmission case.

Yes! Dual pins.


 

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Really nice description of how to do it.

Just too bad it cannot be replaced with a tire-like flexible disc like was on our 1983 240D Benz through its 26th year and still doing fine. Don't think there's enough flex required there to require a U joint, in my opinion.

Ralph
 

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Like everyone else I hate greasing the u joints. I only do it like once a year. Several members, crna for one, has done the u joint replacement, but none have written it up for the rest of us on the forum. Since it was time to grease the u joints, i decided just to change them
out. Four auto parts stores here didn't have a one, so I had to order some in.

u joints:
Napa #: UJ410 The ones I finally got.
Others I found while doing research. I can't confirm they will work
Moog 410
Kubota # 37410-13722
View attachment 686676

Must have Tools:
10, 12, 13, 21 mm sockets
4-6 inch c clamps
5 mm allen wrench
1/8, 3/16 pin punches
Snap ring pliers: I got a channellock 927 for the job. came with several tips and can go external or internal. Could have used longer grips on them my only complaint. Stupid hole way to small.

View attachment 686678

1. Dissemble the plastic cover on the steering wheel console like you were going to grease the u joint. If you are this far just a little more and you'll be at the drive shaft.

2. Unhook the cruise control and parking brake levers. @# cotter pins were wrapped around the bolt and were a pain to get out. When I reassembled these I used a hair pin clip.

View attachment 686680

3. Unplugged the 3 wiring harnesses.
4. Lift and remove lower steering plastic cover
5. Unbolt six 12 mm floor bolts
6. Remove brakes, fwd, and reverse pedals. TIP: Don't use your Milwuakee m18 driver on the 5mm allen wrench bolt head. One came out fine the other stripped. Had to go and get an ez out
View attachment 686682
7. gently pry up deck height adjustment knob
8. Remove the knob under seat
9. Lift up and remove floor. TIP: Use a paint pen to write on shafts and mark the yoke ends so you can reassemble them correctly
View attachment 686690
Spray shafts, and pins with penetrating liquid. Why did JD have to attach shaft to the front u joint. The rear one would have been just as good and quite easy to work on. But no, JD engineers are sadists. Let make these suckers work in a tiny 3 in opening.
https://greenfarmparts.com/parts-diagram/#/John_Deere/2320_Compact_Utility_Tractor_-PC9499/DRIVE_SHAFT:_POWER_TRAIN/94990002/9499D471C0405000006
see parts diagram on bottom of page

10. Use the snap ring pliers with 90 degree tips. Use every cuss word in the book and vow to track down the jd engineers are do grievous bodily harm to them.
12. Spray pins and spindles with penetrating liquid
13. use 1/8 punch to tap out small pin. I added a ratchet extension to the punch to give it more reach. Swear to invent time machine and go back in time and kill jd engineer's father to prevent birth.
View attachment 686686
14. use 3/16 punch for larger pin with ratchet extension
15. try to remove shaft by sliding back and forth. Fail miserably, still needs 1/4 inch to come off. Go have a beer and have lunch. Curse jd engineer's mother for giving birth to the SOB.
16. Pull snap rings of rear u joint yokes.
17. Use hammer and 13 mm socket to tap caps off rear u joint yoke on one side. Rear u joint now free.
18. Slide off both front and rear yokes
19. Remove remaining snap rings and remove old u joints from shaft. I used hammer 13, 21 mm sockets and 4-6 inch c clamps to do this.
View attachment 686688
20 Clean up old grease from yokes.
21 install new u joint in the front. I removed the grease zerk while doing this. TIP: Also, check the grease zerk shaft make sure it isn't too long and will bottom out on joint pin. I used 13mm socket and c clamps
View attachment 686692
View attachment 686702
22. Install new u joint in rear yoke like with front one, but only do one side. I did the short one.
23. Side shaft with new front u joint back on fly wheel
24. Tap pins back in hole. TIP: I used my ratchet extension and smallest socket I had to get them started in the hole. Decide jd engineers must be the devil incarnate here on earth. This is definetely next level torture trying to working in this small hole
25 Now put the PITA snap ring back on. Again curse, swear vengeance, make mental note to buy lots JD stock so I do a hostile take over of JD and fire the engineers.
26 Slide small rear yoke on transmission spindle
27 Assemble rear u joint with 13 mm socket and c clamp
View attachment 686696
28 grease zerks to make sure they work. YEAH BABY!!!
View attachment 686698
29 reassmble tractor. TIP: Make sure the parking brake shaft is on top of floor.
View attachment 686700

Like I said working on the front u joint in that tiny hole is a major PITA. Took 5-6 hours with a couple of trips to hardware store. Old u joint caps could have used more frequent greasing they were a little dry.
Thanks for the write up. I took pictures when I did mine, but never got around to doing a write up. Yours is much more colorful than mine would have been. I find it interesting how similarly we did the same job without directions-including the Channel Lock brand retainer ring pliers. The only things I did differently were that 1) I found a roll pin punching enough to work on the front double pin. 2) I used a ball joint press kit to install the last two caps on the rear.

For anyone still on the fence, this post in conjunction with the popular YouTube video are both correct and this is the proper way to do the job. Thanks again for sharing-wish that I would have had this when I did mine.
 

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u-joint

Currently plan to replace the u-joints on the shaft this off season. I have taken apart the tractor to grease the infamous joint and could not get to the zerk.
Tried the needle (pffft) that didn't work, and i couldn't get a fitting on it because of the position. Has anyone used a lifetime joint or sealed joint?
Love my 2320 and already have the "upgraded" front bearings installed. I need a fix for the u-joint maintenance and I should be set. Thanks to all who have contributed detail!
 

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Really nice description of how to do it.

Just too bad it cannot be replaced with a tire-like flexible disc like was on our 1983 240D Benz through its 26th year and still doing fine. Don't think there's enough flex required there to require a U joint, in my opinion.

Ralph
My Gen 1 2025R has that disc in addition to the u joints on the shaft.
 

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Currently plan to replace the u-joints on the shaft this off season. I have taken apart the tractor to grease the infamous joint and could not get to the zerk.
Tried the needle (pffft) that didn't work, and i couldn't get a fitting on it because of the position. Has anyone used a lifetime joint or sealed joint?
Love my 2320 and already have the "upgraded" front bearings installed. I need a fix for the u-joint maintenance and I should be set. Thanks to all who have contributed detail!
You are exactly where I was two years ago. Got tired of all of the disassembly every 50 hours.

Replace with the Moog. Takes me two minutes to grease from underneath now.
 

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pruav, you did an excellent job with the instructions and pictures. I changed mine today; it's all back together and running. I made a couple trips from the garage to the house to check on a couple of the steps. I followed your instructions, except for the roll pins and snap ring. I wish I would have thought to use a bolt and lock nut, but I used the large roll pin. The snap ring is a doozie. After getting it off, I decided I wasn't dealing with it again. I don't understand the reason for the double roll pins and snap ring. The yoke can't come off even without the roll pin, plus the load is centrifical not longitudinal.

Thanks again for your efforts in making the job much easier.:)
 

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Don ,, I wondered about the snap ring , when I had to replace the hyd fan bracket on either the 2210 or 2305. I did both, the roll pins and snap ring, well the shop foreman stopped with correct snap ring tool. Took him maybe 2 mins from the time he walked into the shed ,crawled under the tractor and then standing up all finished.

Glad to hear yours went without any issues.. well yes you had issues but it is now good to go..
(y)(y)
 

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I always have issues of some type, Gene. :)
 
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