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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,

I have recently purchased a 1980 JD 2440 with single rear remotes. From what I can tell the iso hydraulic connection on my brush hog doesn't fit this tractor, so i bought a JD to ISO converter for it. For some reason when i get the connection seated, and then the lever turned it will not hold the connection. You can pull the hose out of the tractor and the little lever provides no resistance. Likewise if it start the tractor it just shoots the hose out. Any ideas? Is the SCV just needing rebuilt or is there a way to get that lever to lock in place and retain the connection?

THanks!

Zac
 

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IIRC you slide the socket outlet, key 6, reward, insert your hose end, then push both forward to lock the hose end in.
Then turn the lever, key 23, from pointing straight back, to 90°
Viewed from above left side lever will be a 9 o'clock, right side lever 3 o'clock,
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I push hose in I can get the lever to almost 9 o'clock, and if I hold the lever I can't pull out hose. If I don't hold lever and tug on hose it easily pulls out... Maybe something messed up internally?
 

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Breakaway coupler is designed for the hoses to pull out. So if attachment comes off hoses are not damaged.
Have you considered trying the old style male tips on your hoses? In place of the ISO conversion?
 
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Add item #11A or 11B. This will help hold the Laver(10) at a 90°.


781611




To avoid the headaches, convert the JD couplers to ISO. JD part number, RE206778.
Click here.
781614


The video below will show you how to convert it.

 

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I was thinking the lever only "opened" the ball or poppet of both sides of the remote (to allow flow) and did not retain the male coupler. :unsure:
That it is the 8 little balls and the position of the socket outlet (forward balls hold the male coupler tip, rearward they do not) that holds the male coupler tip in.
I have had a hose pull out, the lever stay at 90°, and oil spray when the SCV was used. (Not knowing a hose had pulled out) until no action from the SCV (other than an oily mess) 🤬o_O
 
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I agree that lever when turned 90° depresses balls on both male & female parts but if tab under the bottom contacts lever sufficiently that helps hold male tip in female receptacle. Barrel moving forward which causes the balls to be in a smaller circumference is what was designed to hold male coupler tip. If male tip pulls out with lever remaining at 90° then I think balls in breakaway & male tip are worn out.
 

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The spring #14 on top of the lever may be collapsed as well. The spring keeps upward pressure on lever to hold into detent and against the latch plate #11b. Also new orings on spools helps put extra drag on spool to keep them from pulling out as easily. If you get a seal kit for the coupler, it will have lip seals that can be installed, or the orings and back up rings. Use the orings and back up rings. They seal better and last longer.
 

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jd110
X2 on possibility of collapsed spring/worn barrel o-rings allowing easy movement of oil control lever. I still remember how much "FUN" installing the spring & E-clip was especially when utilizing tools other than the special E-clip installation tool
 

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The spring #14 on top of the lever may be collapsed as well. The spring keeps upward pressure on lever to hold into detent and against the latch plate #11b. Also new orings on spools helps put extra drag on spool to keep them from pulling out as easily. If you get a seal kit for the coupler, it will have lip seals that can be installed, or the orings and back up rings. Use the orings and back up rings. They seal better and last longer.
I wonder if new springs would help with the leaks on lever. I've replaced the O-rings 3 or 4 times and still get leaks.
jd110
X2 on possibility of collapsed spring/worn barrel o-rings allowing easy movement of oil control lever. I still remember how much "FUN" installing the spring & E-clip was especially when utilizing tools other than the special E-clip installation tool
Don't forget the 8 tiny balls, I have lost several in the barn that never surfaced.
I also dislike the the metal one time use plug above the E-clip. I think the last time I replaced O-rings it was over $1 for one.
 
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