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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My 2520 has reached the 50 hour point.
I did not want to stop digging with my backhoe as I have a huge hole in the driveway while trying to remove a stump. Yes I will get some photos I just didn't think anybody wanted to see a "moon" crater in my driveway just yet, otherwise I will get one posted later today.
In addition my dealer is 30+ miles away and I would need to pay for transportation.

I E-mailed my dealer and today he responded that many owners do their 50 hour service without putting their warranty in jeapordy (which was my biggest concern)

So I decided to buy my filters and fluids at the dealer (they are a great dealer and I want to support them)

Reading my owners manual (I understand it's not unusual to have errors and ommissions in the manuals) I see three items I need to complete.

Change engine oil and filter. I can do that.
Change transmission oil and filter. Looks easy enough.

Clean transmission suction filter. I see basically three parts a suction screen, an "O" ring and magnets. Do these magnets sit in some kind of slot inside the suction screen? Are there any hints about the magnets and "O" ring reinstall.
Also need to get some solvent to clean these parts any suggestions.

So it's off to the dealer to get:
3 quarts of oil and filter for engine.
4 gallons of transmission oil.
Some kind of solvent dealer or otherwise suggested
 

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Smalltown,

Not sure if yours is exactly like mine, but here is what I found. The only O-ring involved in the suction screen cleaning is located within a recess machined into the cover plate you will be removing to access the screen.

Once you get the cover plate off, you will see the screen, which is a tube of a thin fabric in an aluminum frame of similar materials to a typical automatic transmission filter. The magnets are located inside the "tube" screen. The tube is stepped at each end and, if I remember correctly, it is symmetrical, so I don't believe it matters which end goes in first. You just need to push it in and get the stepped portion into the receiving portion in the trans. This is fairly foolproof because the cover plate won't go back on if you don't have it in far enough.

Couple of items to note: First, be sure that you also drain the hydro oil out of the final drives by means of the plugs on the bottom of them. This means you may need three or four drain pans, depending on how long you want to let each plug drain.

Also, you might want to check the air and fuel filters and replace as necessary.

Mine took exactly four gallons of hydro oil for a complete fill with filter change.

Good luck.
 

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Incidentally, mine also takes exactly FOUR quarts of engine oil for refill with filter change.

Also, I use Shell Rotella T 10w-30 diesel oil and have since the 50 hour change. My research at the time determined that break-in oil was not necessary after 50 hours. You may find different information, but that was the conclusion I came to.

One more thing:

Regarding your solvent question, due to the fabric material the screen is made of, I was reluctant to use anything stronger than diesel fuel as a cleaning solvent. Seems to work OK for me.
 

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Clean transmission suction filter. I see basically three parts a suction screen, an "O" ring and magnets. Do these magnets sit in some kind of slot inside the suction screen? Are there any hints about the magnets and "O" ring reinstall.
Also need to get some solvent to clean these parts any suggestions.
There is nothing special about the magnets. It will all become very obvious once you dissassemble. The magenets just lay in the bottom of the screen. Just clean them off real well. As far as a solvent, I have not used it but have heard of others just using clean diesel fuel or a clean parts cleaner solution you can purchase from a parts store.

Also, my dealer recommended to replace the o-ring for the suction screen as these are easily damaged. I got several just to keep on hand. Someone else just recently posted about this seal leaking, I think it was Lost In Wisconsin.

Here is the link. http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?2289-2720-small-hydraulic-leak-at-rear-axle.

So it's off to the dealer to get:
3 quarts of oil and filter for engine.
4 gallons of transmission oil.
Some kind of solvent dealer or otherwise suggested
I would get 4qts of engine oil. I am pretty sure it will take a gallon. It did for my 2520.
 

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Very easy to do. For the lower back axle drain plugs, I cut a 5 gallon bucket down to about 12" tall with a sawzall for a drainpan. And the manual is a misprint as it does take 4 qts. of engine oil.I found this out the hard way. The dealer looked up the specs,gave me 3 qts,evidently their info is misprinted too.
 

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Does your 2520 have zerks on the driveshaft to the front axle ? My 2720 does not.
My 2007 2520 does not have zerks on the front drive shaft either.
 

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x2 on the FOUR quarts! Almost did the same thing!

Tranny wasn't that big of a deal. I bought the 5-gallon bucket of hydro oil (same price as 4 1-gallon jugs), I'll save the last gallon for the next maintenance. I used a kerosene transfer hand pump ($5 at hardware store) to transfer it into the tractor, worked great.

Oil change is straight up (assuming you've one or two in your lifetime).

Also changed the front axle lube while I was at it. It took just under 4 quarts to fill. It did fill very slowly though, had to recheck and top it off a number of times until it stopped going down.

Too late now for you, but I bought the filter pack from JD. It has all of the required filters for maintenance, as well as an extra oil filter.

The only spooky parts were how tight to make the screen cover upon re-install and getting the hydro fluid level set. Overfilled it at first, but drained some back out until it was in the mid- window.

Have fun with it!

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
t613 I have heard about those specials for filters etc. How do you get on the mailing list or E-mail list? Does JD send them out or is it a local dealer thing?

When I travel to the dealer for supplies I will try to remember to ask about torque specifictions for the suction screen cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
KennyD the LVA # do I find that in JD parts?
 

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KennyD the LVA # do I find that in JD parts?
Nope. You can call your local dealer to order it, or do a Google on it as there are lots of dealers selling them online.


Sent from my iPad2 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not sure if anybody else might need similar information so I will post what I found.

LVA14401
Filter Pak, 4010 Tractors
LVA14422
Filter Pak, 4010 and 4110 Tractors
LVA14415
Filter Pak, 4115 Tractors
LVA14423
Filter Pak, 4200, 4300 and 4400 Tractors
LVA14416
Filter Pak, 4210, 4310 and 4410 Tractors
LVA14426
Filter Pak, 4500, 4600 and 4700 Tractors
LVA14420
Filter Pak, 4510, 4610 and 4710 Tractors
LVA15776
Filter Pak, 2320 Tractors
LVA14894
Filter Pak, 2520 Tractors
LVA14895
Filter Pak, 3120, 3320, 3520 and 3720 Tractors
LVA14896
Filter Pak, 4120, 4320, 4520 and 4720 Tractors
 

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Final drives, front axle and transmission fluid? Geeez, I might not have bought the thing if I knew it took that kind of attention at 50 hours. I will change the oil in mine and grease everything, some of this sounds a little over the top for pmi.

We will put 2000 hours on a big one without doing any of these things, this thing ought to go longer than 50.
 

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We will put 2000 hours on a big one without doing any of these things, this thing ought to go longer than 50.
Technically, it does go longer, it is just the first change that has a shorter duration. It is just like a car, the first change is on a shorter cycle.
 

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They want to get the shavings and such out from the manufacturing process. However, I have to say, I was surprised to find approximately the same amount of shavings on the screen during the 200 hour change....
 

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I was surprised to find approximately the same amount of shavings on the screen during the 200 hour change....
I am pretty sure that mine wasn't as bad at the 200hr change as compared to the 50hr change. I know my 50hr change looked just as you pictured, but the 200hr was probably 50% better. The magnets looked the same between the oil changes though. I would think your shavings are going to improve over time.
 

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Hey smalltown did you get the torque specs? I'm about to change mine in the next few days.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
klash2 Sorry not just yet I am on injured reserve list list, but considered day to day.
I feel like Vince Wilfork tackeled me :flag_of_truce:
 

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Sorry to hear that, get well soon.

Thanks
 
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