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One thing that can not be overlooked is the engineering Deere has done to make mounting and removing attachments on their tractors. Having the need to mount my 72 inch mower deck I thought I would explain the simplicity to attaching it to my 2520 tractor. I highly recommend a smooth flat surface for this as it really makes the job so much easier. I should also point out that this set up uses the rockshaft for mower lift and cutting control height.

The very first thing I need to do is install the mounting brackets. I have to remove them to be able to mount the snow blower. The clearance is needed to use the mid PTO and front drive shaft on the blower. At this point, start the tractor and raise the mounting brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The 72 inch deck is a beast in size and weight and needs to be rolled under the tractor from the right. Also, the front gauge wheels are tall and can not clear the tractor without help. Deere designed the left front gauge wheel to be easily removed with pull pins. Since this is their procedure I am showing it that way. I myself, just jack the front of the tractor up enough to clear the deck. Just roll the deck into position, lower the mounting brackets, and attach the rear mounting pins. Now connect the drive shaft. Here is a tip, before connecting the PTO shaft make sure the PTO selector lever is in the rear PTO only position. This will allow the mid PTO to turn freely as you connect the driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now connect the front deck mounting brackets, start tractor and raise the deck, then reattach the left front gauge wheel. Connect the front gauge wheel tracking springs, and turn the rear gauge wheels to track forward. Don't forget to shift the PTO selector to the mid only position. I find that on a good day I can have the deck mounted in 10 to 15 minutes. Happy mowing.
 

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That's too easy. I have the 62" drive over and have to use a hammer to beat the front connector into the bracket to rotate and lock in, then pull the rear of the deck back and wrestle each side to lock those into place. Then I'm wore out. I do not have a manual for the deck to show instillation procedure but sometimes it is easy and some times well......

Bob
 

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Kenny you are the man! My dealer was no help on this as I bought my 2520 used some where else (another state) WITH ONLY 13 HRS ON HER. I figured because of the wheels tearing up the yard. The dealer was not much help with that fix either. I have replaced the wheels and added grease zerks and what a difference.
Now thanks to you I have a manual!!!!!! Thanks for the help.
 

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Kenny you are the man! My dealer was no help on this as I bought my 2520 used some where else (another state) WITH ONLY 13 HRS ON HER. I figured because of the wheels tearing up the yard. The dealer was not much help with that fix either. I have replaced the wheels and added grease zerks and what a difference.
Now thanks to you I have a manual!!!!!! Thanks for the help.
Your welcome Bob. It's very sad that your dealer could not/would not order the manual for you:thumbsdown:

BTW, here is the link so you can find any of them yourself: http://www.deere.com/en_US/ProductC...view.servlets.PublicationsSearchServlet?tM=GC
 
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Your welcome Bob. It's very sad that your dealer could not/would not order the manual for you:thumbsdown:

BTW, here is the link so you can find any of them yourself: http://www.deere.com/en_US/ProductC...view.servlets.PublicationsSearchServlet?tM=GC
He would sell one, and it was expensive, and we looked online at the desk but he did not find the installation part to show or share. He is better now that I have bought some attachments from him and parts ect. I was getting ready to try to bend the front a little after mounting it this year for the first time. I'll wait on that. Thanks again.
Bob:laugh:
 

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That's too easy. I have the 62" drive over and have to use a hammer to beat the front connector into the bracket to rotate and lock in, then pull the rear of the deck back and wrestle each side to lock those into place. Then I'm wore out. I do not have a manual for the deck to show instillation procedure but sometimes it is easy and some times well......

Bob
Hey Bob,
Something is very "out of wack" with your deck.
If it is adjusted properly,no wrestling or hammer is needed.
Seems to me you may need to check your adjustments.
Are you raising the deck off the ground when you try to put the J pins in the back and install the front bracket??? That may be your problem.
Leave the deck on the ground to engage the pins and front bracket.
If you do it this way and it still gives you trouble,you really need to check your adjustments.
When I engage the pins and install the front bracket,it is effortless,and has always been that way. Things will only get worse if you are using a hammer and forcing things.

Greg
 

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Follow-up question from newbie tractor owner

I recognize this is a fairly dated post but I recently purchased a gently used 2720 tractor with a 62D belly mower. I would like to remove the belly mower from the tractor and am questioning how the drive shaft is removed. Can someone give me any insight onto how to remove the drive shaft? Any wisdom will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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All you need to do is pull the driveshaft collar forward on the transmission end. It should slide right off. :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I recognize this is a fairly dated post but I recently purchased a gently used 2720 tractor with a 62D belly mower. I would like to remove the belly mower from the tractor and am questioning how the drive shaft is removed. Can someone give me any insight onto how to remove the drive shaft? Any wisdom will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Here is some light reading for ya. All you wanted to know about PTO shafts.
 
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