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Discussion Starter #1
looking for some advice about to purchase my first tractor. I have a good used 2012 2520 with very low hours. Going to be using for landscaping and woods work. Was comparing to a new 2025r which was great as well but can save about 5k and the 2520 feels a bit more stable side to side and the FEL seems to be a bit more capable? Looking for some input from someone with more experience if this would be smart way to go or buy new with warranty? Thanks for the help

Matt
 

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I bought one of the first 2520 models in 2006, still have it and it has been a good tractor. Mine is pretty much optioned out and properly ballasted. Only problem I had (and many other owners too) was a leaking front hub but it was finally repaired under warranty. My 2520 is considered an old tractor now by most people but I can show you old tractors, a barn full if you want. Get it with an engine and transmission heater if you live in an area where it gets cold, makes them start much easier.

762467
 

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Bought this tractor so my wife would have something to use for landscaping and gardening. She handles it very well.

762472
 

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IMO, go with the 2520.
Welcome to GTT (y)
 
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yeah i have a 2006 2520 too. got almost 1,200 hrs on it. been a good tractor except for the front hub leak. i replaced both front hubs, so now i got me a 2720's front axle-or a frankenstein tractor, but no more leaks..
 
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Another 2520 owner here - bought mine new in 2007.

It has been pretty much bullet proof - has never been back to the dealer for anything. Just regular maintenance items and a pair of front tires in 13 years.

I have the rear tires filled and find it very stable on our hills. I use it for mowing, snow removal, and tree removal/cleanup. With a set of forks it does everything I need around the homestead.
 

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I also own a 2520! Bought mine new in 2009! I'm thinking it has the updated front hubs, but not sure! I haven't had any issues with it to date! It's one great tractor for sure!(y):)
 

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Mine is also 2012 that I bought in 2018 with 760 hours on it; I've got 1100 hours now. I was fortunate to have gotten one that was owned by the dealership's owners family. So I know it got what it needed when it needed it. I do have occasional leaking from the front left hub but after watching a Youtube video have put concerted effort into keeping pressure released from the front axle and don't have a real problem any more. I also added the heaters like was mentioned above.

The tractors been all I could have asked for and then some. I have no regret and would do it again in a flash. Good luck.
 

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I have a 2010 2520.... the fastest year. Lol. I have around 700 hours and haven’t had any issues... except the seat rusted pretty quick and the upholstery tore easily. I think this was a bad batch of seats... or could be from setting records on the bonneville salt flats. Great tractors!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Mine is also 2012 that I bought in 2018 with 760 hours on it; I've got 1100 hours now. I was fortunate to have gotten one that was owned by the dealership's owners family. So I know it got what it needed when it needed it. I do have occasional leaking from the front left hub but after watching a Youtube video have put concerted effort into keeping pressure released from the front axle and don't have a real problem any more. I also added the heaters like was mentioned above.

The tractors been all I could have asked for and then some. I have no regret and would do it again in a flash. Good luck.
Thanks for all the responses appreciate the advice looking forward to picking this thing up. Didn’t see any leaking at hubs but didn’t know to look for that will check it out. Dealer is supposed to go through the tractor next week
 

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Bought mine used in 15 with 158hrs it now has 340 and with the exception of the battery and the famous “ hey look at me I want attention NOW” I have only done regular maintenance. Moves snow, dirt, rock, has a backhoe just all around a excellent machine. Just one word of advice when doing the front axle service, be patient when refilling. It takes some time for all the oil to get to where it needs to be.
 

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There also was a situation of the fuel tanks "sagging" due to bent brackets. You'll know because the fuel cap will be out of center in the hole on the hood. BUT, its a simple fix.
 
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There also was a situation of the fuel tanks "sagging" due to bent brackets. You'll know because the fuel cap will be out of center in the hole on the hood. BUT, its a simple fix.
Below is how the dealer fixed the problem on my 2720, which has the same tank mounting issue as the 2520. This is the right side of the tank.

762773
 

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Below is how the dealer fixed the problem on my 2720, which has the same tank mounting issue as the 2520. This is the right side of the tank.

View attachment 762773
I followed what you showed here some years ago and mine has been fine ever since.

Thanks again!
 

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Well there I did it, I jinxed myself. Positive battery cable terminal almost ate thru completely. Not sure why it happens so fast. I usually check connections in spring and fall and it was good. Ordered new cable and just got it put in. Not user friendly. Could of had a better design on that one. Had to loosen the radiator to get wire under it. I think the battery cable engineer guy slept with the frame design engineer guys wife. And now we have to pay for it
 

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Well there I did it, I jinxed myself. Positive battery cable terminal almost ate thru completely. Not sure why it happens so fast. I usually check connections in spring and fall and it was good. Ordered new cable and just got it put in. Not user friendly. Could of had a better design on that one. Had to loosen the radiator to get wire under it. I think the battery cable engineer guy slept with the frame design engineer guys wife. And now we have to pay for it
I’ve been wanting to replace my battery cables for some time but haven’t since the positive cable looks almost impossible to replace unless you could crimp your own end on the new one.
 

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Another 2520 owner/lover here. I bought my 2009 model a year and a couple of months ago, have put 225 hours on it since purchase, and it only had 380 hours when I got it. Mine came with loader and 62D2 mower deck, plus the optional independent mower lift, which transfers raising and lowering the mower deck to the joystick for the loader, instead of using the rear lift control. I primarily mow with mine, but it gets a good bit of use doing landscape work, aerating and spreading fertilizer and spraying lawns and moving mulch. I also have a PTO driven wood chipper, a plow and 50" tiller for gardening.

When I picked mine up (bought it from a JD dealer who had taken it on trade), I test drove a 2025R to compare them; there is no comparison, IMO. The 2520 is more tractor (it does have about 3 more horsepower), but it just seems a more solid machine, less comfort googaws, and the sound alone beats the 2025. Mine did have the sagging fuel tank, but I fixed it in about 20 minutes using the method outlined above. Access to the engine is easier than the 2025, the whole hood raises instead of just the top portion, and there's still some steel in the hood and fenders.
 

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I’ve been wanting to replace my battery cables for some time but haven’t since the positive cable looks almost impossible to replace unless you could crimp your own end on the new one.
It’s not as bad as it looks to be honest. I removed fan shroud bolts and then if you take the top brackets from top of radiator to tranny cooler the radiator becomes free enough to move. I also removed two bolts that held the tranny cooler. Just trying to give everything as much room to move as possible. I put the handle end of a plied under radiator and then was able to slide cable under from the front to the starter. I had to remove a a bolt that held a small plate in front of the hydraulic pump. All in all it only took about 1 hour and that includes all the investigation on what to take apart.
 

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It’s not as bad as it looks to be honest. I removed fan shroud bolts and then if you take the top brackets from top of radiator to tranny cooler the radiator becomes free enough to move. I also removed two bolts that held the tranny cooler. Just trying to give everything as much room to move as possible. I put the handle end of a plied under radiator and then was able to slide cable under from the front to the starter. I had to remove a a bolt that held a small plate in front of the hydraulic pump. All in all it only took about 1 hour and that includes all the investigation on what to take apart.
Thanks for that! I feel more confident now.

I should replace my battery - whenever I do both cables will be replaced. Some years ago I had the sudden battery death with the original battery and could only find a NAPA battery that would fit - and still had to wait 24 hours for it to come in.

Ever since I’ve had corrosion problems. I’ve learned that the battery must have had a slight crack in the case somewhere allowing caustic fumes to release. Been fighting with corroded battery terminals ever since.

I should just go ahead and change everything but am trying to get my moneys worth out of the battery. The one I had to get was less CCA than the original and can really tell when it’s cold out.

I’ll have to get @jgayman ’s attention as I forget if I want a dry charged or wet charged battery. He’s discussed this a few times but I forget. Am going with the Deere battery this time but may have to have it ordered in and make a 3 hour round trip to get it.
 

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I’ll have to get @jgayman ’s attention as I forget if I want a dry charged or wet charged battery. He’s discussed this a few times but I forget. Am going with the Deere battery this time but may have to have it ordered in and make a 3 hour round trip to get it.
The wet charged battery is the least expensive option. That's what I have always asked for.

There should be around a $18 core credit on the old battery.

763086
 
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