Green Tractor Talk banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First time Deere owner here. Just ordered a 2011 2520 last week and took advantage of their 2500.00 off the machine with 2x implements. I took the 200CX FEL w/ balast box and 62D MMM. I upgraded the mechanical lift to the independendant lift, upgraded the 53 inch material bucket to a 61 inch and also added a block heater. The only thing I couldn't get them to throw in to sweeten the deal was the iMatch hitch - that will have to come later. I stopped by my dealer this afternoon and the CUT was sitting out front while they wait for for the hydraulic lift. While I was there I went over the machine with a fine tooth comb and took notice of the Serial # on the CUT. Does anyone know how to decipher JD serial #s? I know it may sound petty, but I'm a complete DETAIL freak. My purchase order is for a 2011 2520 and I want to ensure I'm getting what I ordered and not some left-over 2009-2010 model. I know it's new, as it has 5 tenths of an hour on the hour meter. I'd likely take it, but if I know it's not a 2011 model from the serial # I might have an extra bargaining chip to get them to add the iMatch.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
311 Posts
PM your serial number and I'll run it through.

sent from the road
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
21,271 Posts
:gtt:

Tully. Kevin will take care of you...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,698 Posts
Welcome to DT Tully. MAN, are you a shrewd deal maker. :laugh: We will want delivery pics when you get it. :good2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
311 Posts
First time Deere owner here. Just ordered a 2011 2520 last week and took advantage of their 2500.00 off the machine with 2x implements. I took the 200CX FEL w/ balast box and 62D MMM. I upgraded the mechanical lift to the independendant lift, upgraded the 53 inch material bucket to a 61 inch and also added a block heater. The only thing I couldn't get them to throw in to sweeten the deal was the iMatch hitch - that will have to come later. I stopped by my dealer this afternoon and the CUT was sitting out front while they wait for for the hydraulic lift. While I was there I went over the machine with a fine tooth comb and took notice of the Serial # on the CUT. Does anyone know how to decipher JD serial #s? I know it may sound petty, but I'm a complete DETAIL freak. My purchase order is for a 2011 2520 and I want to ensure I'm getting what I ordered and not some left-over 2009-2010 model. I know it's new, as it has 5 tenths of an hour on the hour meter. I'd likely take it, but if I know it's not a 2011 model from the serial # I might have an extra bargaining chip to get them to add the iMatch.
Dan, I sent your tractor info in a PM. Let me know if you need anything else. For the rest of the gang, Dan's serial number is in a 17 digit format similar to the auto industry. This is new for 2011. The format has been a 13 digit number for the last 10 or 15 years.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
21,271 Posts
Dan's serial number is in a 17 digit format similar to the auto industry. This is new for 2011. The format has been a 13 digit number for the last 10 or 15 years.
Good info, thanks for the update. Is there any "key" to it that you could share?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
311 Posts
Good info, thanks for the update. Is there any "key" to it that you could share?
I am not aware of a Key to decipher the VIN or PIN (as Deere calls it). The 2 letters preceding the model number denote place of manufacture, (Moline, Manhiem, India, etc..). The model number is obvious. The last 6 digits are the serial number. I have not figured out a code to the remaining letters. I'll do a DTAC search and get back to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello Tully and welcome. What was your rationale for getting the independent lift over the mechanical? Consider getting the hydraulic diverter valve for the FEL if getting the indpendent lift.
Chris-
My rationale for the independant lift was that I had two competitive quotes for the same machine and they included the IL over the mechanical lift. When it came to negotiating my purchase price, I got my dealer to upgrade from their original quote. Some of the information I've read here on DT has indicated that the mechanical arms are subject to bending if left on the tractor if you don't remove them completely. The only negatives I've read on the IL is the hyraulic bleed-down which sounds like their's a fix for. I'll likely invest in the diverter long-term if it becomes a hassle. I intend to do my mowing with the FEL removed, so losing the tilt on the bucket while the IL is being used isn't a show-stopper for me. The other negative on the IL lift is if I had the backhoe implement. I guess if I had one, I'd have to remove the IL to make room for the backhoe subframe, but that too is well down the road for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,041 Posts
WELCOME TO GREENTRACTORTALK TULLY.:good2:
Wonder if there are any subtle differences between a 2009 and a 2011.

Greg
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top