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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, new user here. Maybe someone out there can help me. My 2010 2520 that I bought new and has been regularly serviced, (has 130 hrs now), is having problems. Started about a week ago when i started it up and it stalled before i could even move it. Was fine for a few days after that. Did it again and was getting worse and was stalling more and more as i was driving it. (just moving trailers around the drive). I checked fill cap by loosening it and it still would stall. Drained fuel tank and water separator(disconnected hose from separator and fuel pours out of tank so it's not plugged), changed fuel filter, water separator element/filter(which were all like new), put in new fuel, put on new outer and inner air filters, and checked lines and replaced with new rubber hose and hose clamps instead of the spring clamps(thought maybe air was getting in at ends or from a pinhole in a hose). After all this I am still having problems. The part that has me confused is that it will run fine for a while sometimes. I mowed yesterday and only had it start to die or stall a handful of times (4 acres). Now today it keeps stalling so i checked battery voltage, fuel solenoid voltage, which were around 14ish, Now it'shardly running. Each time it stalls I have to crank and crank and crank to get it started again(like 4 or 5 times at 5 seconds each plus). It blows grayish smoke when it stalls. Then it started and was fine for 10 minutes. Drove it all over at different speeds and rpms. Thought it was fixed. Then it stalled again and will start and i'll get a couple feet and it'll stall again. The solenoid ticks when I turn the key over but do not start it, not sure how to tell if its doing something different while tractor is actually running. Tested voltage to fuel gauge and it was about 5, not sure if thats a problem or not but I'm trying to be very detailed in order for anyone to shed some light on this situation. Not sure if I have injector problems which seems strange that it will run good for a little bit sometimes and then stall and stall and stall. Or if its the pump or some sensor. I am at a loss. I am getting a service manual to try and figure some more out with the wiring and sensors and the schematics. Thanks in advance to anyone who took the time read this novel. lol
 

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Sure sounds like a fuel problem, is the fuel sediment bowl full or empty when it stalls
 
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Foreign object in the tank?
 

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Take a flashlight and look inside the tank. In very similiar posts, we've seen floaters inside the tank that would lodge in the output sporadically and do what you describe.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Take a flashlight and look inside the tank. In very similiar posts, we've seen floaters inside the tank that would lodge in the output sporadically and do what you describe.
I will do that as soon as I get home from work. Thanks for the feedback
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Intermittent safety switch?


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Considering that, I know there's a seat & pto safety and it has to be in neutral to start and get off the seat. It will stall moving or ideling in neutral though, then be fine for a little while.
 

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Considering that, I know there's a seat & pto safety and it has to be in neutral to start and get off the seat. It will stall moving or ideling in neutral though, then be fine for a little while.
The seat switch would be the easiest to test. All you should need it an ohm meter. Short of that it might be a good time to get a copy of the tech manual so you can run through all of the safety switch testing procedures.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry, I'm learning as I go. I found some parts diagrams online and I've tested the fuel pump, not the solenoide. So that leaves the fuel shutoff solenoid as an option still.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: tested fuel solenoid, it is not retracting when the key is turned. If I turn the key and push the plunger in, it will stay in until I turn off key. Checked voltage to the solenoid. With a lead in the odd port(black If I remeber) and one in one of the side by side ports(red or white I believe) I will get a reading of 12.55 one one side and .02 on the other. Not sure if voltage is a problem of its a bad solenoid.
 

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Update: tested fuel solenoid, it is not retracting when the key is turned. If I turn the key and push the plunger in, it will stay in until I turn off key. Checked voltage to the solenoid. With a lead in the odd port(black If I remeber) and one in one of the side by side ports(red or white I believe) I will get a reading of 12.55 one one side and .02 on the other. Not sure if voltage is a problem of its a bad solenoid.
Sounds like the initial coil in the solenoid is not working but the hold open coil is. Hope fully someone will be able to tell what the resistance of each of the coils should be so you can figure if it is the solenoid or what is suppose to fire it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I tested the solenoid by wiring it to the battery and it works fine that way. Plunger pulls back and stays in position. Must be a relay or something before it that's bad. I will know more when the service manual I ordered comes in.
 
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