Hey Ron
What kind (brand) of gauge did you use?
Greg
What kind (brand) of gauge did you use?
Greg
2520 temp guage
Finally got around to installing a temperature guage in the 2520. Not hard to do but a little time consuming. Trickiest part was figuring out the correct wiring. Turned out that I tapped into the hot wire leading to the PTO for the sending unit and used one of the wires in the light switch for the little bulb for the guage. Guage lights up whenever the rest of the guages are lit. All in all very satisfying.
In the last half hour that I worked I installed my Artillian forks. These are definitely good kit. Highly recommended. Randy........are you listening? :mocking:
Tomorrow I am putting tail lights in the X540.
Ahhhhhhh ........... Spring!!
In the last half hour that I worked I installed my Artillian forks. These are definitely good kit. Highly recommended. Randy........are you listening? :mocking:
Tomorrow I am putting tail lights in the X540.
Ahhhhhhh ........... Spring!!
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Ron...where did you end up mounting it ?
see here now....all these questions wouldnt be necessary if you had followed the no pic...,didnt happen rule.:mocking:
see here now....all these questions wouldnt be necessary if you had followed the no pic...,didnt happen rule.:mocking:
That looks great! :good2:
I want to do that as well as I hate relying on idiot lights
.....there just aint enough time in a day:thumbsdown:
I want to do that as well as I hate relying on idiot lights
.....there just aint enough time in a day:thumbsdown:
Thanks for the kind words. I will post a couple more pictures to show where I routed the wire. Not that the way it was shown is wrong it is just that I wanted the wire to be a bit less obvious. A couple of other learnings:
1) the drain valve for the rad is on the bottom left of the rad (facing it). About a quart is fine.
2) don't reinstall the copper washer when installing the sending unit (mine leaked when I did this)
3) use a multimeter to find the hot wire in the light switch cluster (I believe that it was red with a white stripe and at a corner in the cluster when the switch was in the second position). To find the hot wire in the pto cluster, the switch needs to be on
4) when removing the wiring harnesses remember to squeeze the tabs in
5) a little silicone goes a long way (don't ask how I found this out) :laugh:
1) the drain valve for the rad is on the bottom left of the rad (facing it). About a quart is fine.
2) don't reinstall the copper washer when installing the sending unit (mine leaked when I did this)
3) use a multimeter to find the hot wire in the light switch cluster (I believe that it was red with a white stripe and at a corner in the cluster when the switch was in the second position). To find the hot wire in the pto cluster, the switch needs to be on
4) when removing the wiring harnesses remember to squeeze the tabs in
5) a little silicone goes a long way (don't ask how I found this out) :laugh:
Ron,
Did you install your temp sensor unit in the same spot as GotDeeres did in this thread?
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compacts/2315-temperature-guage-2520-a.html
Did you install your temp sensor unit in the same spot as GotDeeres did in this thread?
http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compacts/2315-temperature-guage-2520-a.html
That is EXACTLY what I needed to know! I WILL be doing this mod! My 2520 has never overheated, but it just bothers me that there is no proper temp gauge on it.
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