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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There are a few threads and posts about dolly builds for the 260 backhoe. There's obviously room for interpretation about how to put one together but I was hoping to find some clear direction about what might be best. I didn't find that, so I set out to build and document my attempt so that others would know how to duplicate and improve upon my work.

backhoe-dolly-1.jpg backhoe-dolly-11.jpg

First up: the casters. I wanted big and fat ones so that the backhoe would roll easily on the concrete of the garage and maybe be manageable on the hard-packed dirt driveway. 5" casters seemed the biggest I could go, however most of the 5" options used only 1" - 1-1/4" wide tires. I eventually found that Harbor Freight has some 5" x 2"-wide casters. These are some big and weighty casters! They don't have locks, but otherwise fit the bill. I bought four of them, all swivel. My family helped me take advantage of 25%-off coupons so the total cost was just over $50 for them.

The casters have big mounting plates so I got 3/8" lag bolts to mount them. In each caster plate I used two 2-1/2" lag bolts to go through two pieces of 2x4, and two 1-1/2" lag bolts to mount the other side that only goes through one 2x4. Washers on all of them, of course.

And a couple 2x4s, of course. The dolly measures 40" long and 18" wide. There are three 18" wide support members. The gap between the first and second member (where the bucket sits) is 7". I ripped another piece of 2x4 to 2" wide, and this is against the support member where the backhoe frame sits. This 2" wide piece is important because it brings the height of the backhoe frame closer to the dolly at the point where the backhoe will pivot off of the subframe on the tractor. A handful of deck screws holds it all together. I set the casters 1-1/2" in from the edge of the dolly frame, just because I thought it looked nice spaced like that.

Total cost was under $60.

The dolly is low enough to roll under the backhoe. It angles between the left-right swivel for the boom and the stabilizer. There's less than 1/2" of clearance between the top of the dolly and bottom of the backhoe so there's not a lot of room, but it fits in easily.

backhoe-dolly-4.jpg

Line up the dolly below the backhoe. The dolly is just long enough to get the backhoe off. The bucket needs to be lowered into a somewhat-level position and the dipper stick needs to be as close to the tractor as it'll get. Under the backhoe, the dolly will bump the left-right swivel pivot for the boom. Lower the boom to the dolly enough to take pressure off of the backhoe subframe so that the pins can be released from the top of the subframe, then raise the boom to lift the backhoe off of the backhoe subframe. Stabilizers don't need to be lowered.

backhoe-dolly-5.jpg backhoe-dolly-6.jpg

That extra piece of 2" wide 2x4 allows the backhoe to pivot off of the subframe and easily clear it. Here the boom arm is all the way "up," tilted back onto the dolly and the backhoe pulls away!

backhoe-dolly-7.jpg backhoe-dolly-8.jpg backhoe-dolly-9.jpg

Woot, it works!

It's not perfect, or, Version 2.0:

  • Most obviously, the dolly could be two inches shorter, negating the need for the extra 2" wide 2x4.
  • I should have used 2x6s for the long pieces. The caster plates are big, slightly wider than the 2x4 (so, probably about 3-3/4" wide). I hope there's enough material left on the 2x4 around the screw holes to support the weight of the backhoe. Using 2x6s would have provided that extra width.
  • Caster selection is a big consideration. Harbor Freight has 6" x 2" casters that I looked at using, but I'm fairly certain they are too big, even if the caster is mounted to the 18" horizontal supports on the dolly, preventing the dolly from rolling under the backhoe. These are some big casters, though. Most of the other (narrower-wheel) casters are not quite as tall. I think that means 6" casters might fit if mounted to the horizontal supports on the dolly. Other 5" casters would be shorter, but I think they would still be big enough for the backhoe to go "up" and lift off of the subframe without use of the stabilizers. The reason I'd consider other casters is to get something with locks. I have nightmares of the backhoe rolling over and smashing my beautiful fiberglass kayak!
 

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Great write up on your dolly. I'm going to make one this week when I start my stay cation. I do have a few questions though for those of us with different sized casters.

How tall is your dolly from the ground to the top of the upper supports?

Would you recommend shortening it to 38" from the 40" now?

I will also post my pics when complete. I am also building my own dolly to stand up my MMM in the winter.

Cheers,

Fred
 

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Caster Criteria

I've built quite a few dollies for implements. It's important that the caster material not take a set (develop a flat spot) when heavy weight is on it for an extended time. I gave up trying to figure out which plastic casters were suitable and have only used steel casters recently. They're a little more noisy when rolling and they can get a little rusty if they get wet, but they don't ever develop a flat spot. I haven't seen 5" steel casters, but I'll have to look around.
 

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@Dan: Good and simple. :good2:

@Keane: Check McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com for all sorts of casters. They aren't cheap; but they have stuff you won't ever find at the Big Box stores.
 
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Backhoe Dolly

I looked at different optons and made this one. Similar to yours. Trick is to keep it low enough that is will slide under the backhoe at the bottom. This one just fits. It has 2.5" casters and then 2x2 steel 3 layers high. If I made it again, I would use 1x2 on the top - layed down, for more clearance.
IMAG4018.jpg

IMAG4022.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How tall is your dolly from the ground to the top of the upper supports?
I measure it at 9-5/8".

Would you recommend shortening it to 38" from the 40" now?
If building out of 2x4s, yes shorten it to 38". There's no advantage to making it longer, and you can't make it but a fraction of an inch shorter.

I am also building my own dolly to stand up my MMM in the winter.
I would be interested in seeing your build of that!
 

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sincerest form of flattery ...

I finally put together my own copy of your dolly. Picked up the castors (5"x2") at Lowe's (2 straight, 2 swivel) just because they were nearest ($12.50 for the straight style, $14.50 for the swivel style). Used your dimensions, with 38" for the length. Used 2x6 long way, 2x4 on the cross members.

backhoe-dolly-1.jpg

With the Bro-Tek thumb, the bucket sits a little different when I got it to the point it would lift off the sub-frame, but it still works fine. Thanks for the design!

Nick
 

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Guys you are great, built this in 20 min today. I followed the original instructions with a 40" length but used a 2x6 for the header rather then ripping a separate piece. Works perfect and cost me $22 from Lowes with a gift card I had laying around.

Backhoe is new to this tractor. Bought the machine last year and wanted to test how it worked over the winter before buying too many accessories. Needless to say I've ordered about everything you can for it. The machine/snowblower combo was nothing short of amazing during last years New England winter.

IMG_5231.jpg
 

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mods to my copy

Thought I'd resurrect this thread for an update on my copy of the 260 backhoe dolly.

After using it for a bit, I had noticed areas that looked like they would get significant wear over time. I decided to "armor" those locations & used what was at hand. Most areas were given an angle iron sheath (metal salvaged from a bed frame queen -> king add-on). At the very front, I used a couple of door striker plates (with the tongue flattened out) for where the backhoe frame hooks areas make contact.





The protected edge at the very back is there because that is where the bucket hangs (by the ledge behind the teeth) when the thumb is in an extended position. When the thumb is not in use, the bucket sits normally. The smaller pieces on the interior of the frame protect from the bottom boom hinge point, which tends to make contact on the frame when the thumb is in use.

Nick
 

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Does the main boom pivot / pin (where it attaches to the frame) actually rest on the long 2x6's (or 2x4's)??

If I make this out of steel I just wanted to make sure the inside distance between the longer (38" or 40") boards wasn't critical.
 

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Thanks to all the great folks here that share their ideas I also built me a backhoe dolly. I also know you better post a picture! :laugh:

backhoedolly.jpg
 

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I built the the dolly same as the original 18"x38" all 2x4s and 5" casters. It work perfectly to remove the 260 from the 1025r. The only issue that concerned me was the bucket would curl up while being stored. This would cause the BH to tilt and slide back on the dolly over time. My solution was to add two 2x4s in the center for the base of the boom to rest on. I really only need the one 2x4, the extra one was just a spacer when I was experimenting with location and just decided to leave it in. After the BH is off the tractor I can bring the boom and dipper all the way in and adjust the bucket to rest nicely in it's cradle. I disconnect the hydraulics, insert the the boom pin and then relieve hydraulic pressure from all the controls and nothing moves or drifts.
 

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There are a few threads and posts about dolly builds for the 260 backhoe. There's obviously room for interpretation about how to put one together but I was hoping to find some clear direction about what might be best. I didn't find that, so I set out to build and document my attempt so that others would know how to duplicate and improve upon my work.

View attachment 48158 View attachment 48159

First up: the casters. I wanted big and fat ones so that the backhoe would roll easily on the concrete of the garage and maybe be manageable on the hard-packed dirt driveway. 5" casters seemed the biggest I could go, however most of the 5" options used only 1" - 1-1/4" wide tires. I eventually found that Harbor Freight has some 5" x 2"-wide casters. These are some big and weighty casters! They don't have locks, but otherwise fit the bill. I bought four of them, all swivel. My family helped me take advantage of 25%-off coupons so the total cost was just over $50 for them.

The casters have big mounting plates so I got 3/8" lag bolts to mount them. In each caster plate I used two 2-1/2" lag bolts to go through two pieces of 2x4, and two 1-1/2" lag bolts to mount the other side that only goes through one 2x4. Washers on all of them, of course.

And a couple 2x4s, of course. The dolly measures 40" long and 18" wide. There are three 18" wide support members. The gap between the first and second member (where the bucket sits) is 7". I ripped another piece of 2x4 to 2" wide, and this is against the support member where the backhoe frame sits. This 2" wide piece is important because it brings the height of the backhoe frame closer to the dolly at the point where the backhoe will pivot off of the subframe on the tractor. A handful of deck screws holds it all together. I set the casters 1-1/2" in from the edge of the dolly frame, just because I thought it looked nice spaced like that.

Total cost was under $60.

The dolly is low enough to roll under the backhoe. It angles between the left-right swivel for the boom and the stabilizer. There's less than 1/2" of clearance between the top of the dolly and bottom of the backhoe so there's not a lot of room, but it fits in easily.

View attachment 48165

Line up the dolly below the backhoe. The dolly is just long enough to get the backhoe off. The bucket needs to be lowered into a somewhat-level position and the dipper stick needs to be as close to the tractor as it'll get. Under the backhoe, the dolly will bump the left-right swivel pivot for the boom. Lower the boom to the dolly enough to take pressure off of the backhoe subframe so that the pins can be released from the top of the subframe, then raise the boom to lift the backhoe off of the backhoe subframe. Stabilizers don't need to be lowered.

View attachment 48166 View attachment 48167

That extra piece of 2" wide 2x4 allows the backhoe to pivot off of the subframe and easily clear it. Here the boom arm is all the way "up," tilted back onto the dolly and the backhoe pulls away!

View attachment 48168 View attachment 48169 View attachment 48170

Woot, it works!

It's not perfect, or, Version 2.0:

  • Most obviously, the dolly could be two inches shorter, negating the need for the extra 2" wide 2x4.
  • I should have used 2x6s for the long pieces. The caster plates are big, slightly wider than the 2x4 (so, probably about 3-3/4" wide). I hope there's enough material left on the 2x4 around the screw holes to support the weight of the backhoe. Using 2x6s would have provided that extra width.
  • Caster selection is a big consideration. Harbor Freight has 6" x 2" casters that I looked at using, but I'm fairly certain they are too big, even if the caster is mounted to the 18" horizontal supports on the dolly, preventing the dolly from rolling under the backhoe. These are some big casters, though. Most of the other (narrower-wheel) casters are not quite as tall. I think that means 6" casters might fit if mounted to the horizontal supports on the dolly. Other 5" casters would be shorter, but I think they would still be big enough for the backhoe to go "up" and lift off of the subframe without use of the stabilizers. The reason I'd consider other casters is to get something with locks. I have nightmares of the backhoe rolling over and smashing my beautiful fiberglass kayak!
Nice Job!
 

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I built mine off of the original design but with 2x6. One key reminder: ** put the travel pins in the backhoe after removal ** If you don't put the big pin back, the backhoe will relax, & be more of a challenge to re-install. Not the end of the world but, definitely easier if you put the pin back preventing it from moving.



I have taken my backhoe off, & put it back on multiple times since building this dolly. It's a 5 minute or less process, without any help. The first time, I didn't put the pin back in.... it only added a couple minutes to the process but, I always put it back now, & she doesn't relax.
 

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Thanks for everyone's contributions. I built my dolly today with two slight modifications. I went with 4 swivel casters because I need to maneuver it into a tight spot and I made the length 41 inches. I first made it 38 but then I was spending a lot of time trying to get it just right so the bucket would sit properly. I had a piece of 2x12x41 lying around so I ripped it in half. The extra 3 inches made a huge difference for me. It dropped right in first time and the extra length does not compromise anything.

Previously I had been dropping the BH on some level ground and it could be a pain lining everything up to get it back on, especially this spring after things settled from the winter. This is one of those things that I wish I had made up sooner.
 

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Thanks for everyone's contributions. I built my dolly today with two slight modifications. I went with 4 swivel casters because I need to maneuver it into a tight
Cool...! I'm going to modify mine. My original build had two swivels. I'm gonna switch it out to four swivels. I find myself switching back & forth between backhoe, & 3pt fairly frequently. The projects I have lined up for this summer require both.
 

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One more copy

Another successful build with the 2x6 modification and 4 swivel casters. All from scrap lumber from a deck build. Only had to cut 3 pieces, the rest were perfect to the original 40 x 18 specs. Amazed how easy it came off the tractor just using the bucket pressure.
 

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Built the Dolly.. Now to get the backhoe.

My dealer has had my tractor all week to get my backhoe installed. We've had heavy rains and snow recently and the grass is growing fast. I'll need to mow soon after it gets back. So I wanted to have the dolly ready when the tractor and backhoe get home.

Since I didn't have the backhoe for any measurements, I built this dolly on faith. The original edition is great, and there have been a lot of minor tweaks in the copies. I'm hoping I distilled all of this information into a dolly build that works the first time.

I have a question for those who have built and used this dolly previously: I know the dolly just fits under the backhoe frame. When you were loading and unloading, was your FEL on the tractor? The FEL on the front end will definitely change distance-to-ground of anything on the back. I'm wondering if I'll have to put the FEL on just to remove the backhoe. Hopefully, the height of the dolly is such that it works either way.
 

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My dealer has had my tractor all week to get my backhoe installed. We've had heavy rains and snow recently and the grass is growing fast. I'll need to mow soon after it gets back. So I wanted to have the dolly ready when the tractor and backhoe get home.

Since I didn't have the backhoe for any measurements, I built this dolly on faith. The original edition is great, and there have been a lot of minor tweaks in the copies. I'm hoping I distilled all of this information into a dolly build that works the first time.

I have a question for those who have built and used this dolly previously: I know the dolly just fits under the backhoe frame. When you were loading and unloading, was your FEL on the tractor? The FEL on the front end will definitely change distance-to-ground of anything on the back. I'm wondering if I'll have to put the FEL on just to remove the backhoe. Hopefully, the height of the dolly is such that it works either way.
That's too pretty to use...

Throw it down a steep hill into a ditch, then drag it up and down the driveway a couple times to season it some, then it'll be perfect. :bigthumb:
 
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