260 BH - FEL Required - Why? Now I know

Ah-Ha!

There is the weight balance and of course it would look completely dorky without a loader.

I think it is pretty typical for this type of BH mounting. In fact, I think all the 2000 series machines are done this way as well.

BethesdaEC said:

There is the weight balance and of course

it would look completely dorky without a loader.

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Yes it would.
Also, what Randy said.
I use the FEL/BH mounting frame work for my snow plow frame mounting also.

Green Paint

I am now considering the 260 Backhoe myself and I too wondered how and where this sub frame bolted up. I was aware the mower deck could be installed at the same time as the 260BH and i have yet to see any pictures of the sub-frame other than the one posted above. For the like of me though, I couldn't see a reason for having both the mower and the 260BH installed at the same time other then to save storage space at night. The tractor has limited ground clearance as it is.

In my opinion, unfortunately, the brackets around the FEL mount looks like an unsightly afterthought. It sure looks like a candidate for green paint!! When you get some seat time with the 260BH, I'd like to know how it performed and jst as importantly, where its weak. I know its not a full sized excavator but the sales team keep telling me I'd be surprised as long as I am patient as the hydraulics are slower. My concern is its ability to pull out large stumps and move rocks to clear property. I cant justify the $7400Cdn unless it does what I need it to do, which is to clear land for finishing, garage foundation and top finishing. I'd also be curious to see any pictures of a mechanical thumb if you have one.

In the meantime, the missus says I will have to wait for the 260BH (spent over 25k on this new toy so far in the last two months), so I will have to be satisfied to read with envy for now.

Thank you very much for that picture. Could I perhaps see a few more?

Cheers,

Gord

gngyoung said:

I am now considering the 260 Backhoe myself and I too wondered how and where this sub frame bolted up. I was aware the mower deck could be installed at the same time as the 260BH and i have yet to see any pictures of the sub-frame other than the one posted above. For the like of me though, I couldn't see a reason for having both the mower and the 260BH installed at the same time other then to save storage space at night. The tractor has limited ground clearance as it is.

In my opinion, unfortunately, the brackets around the FEL mount looks like an unsightly afterthought. It sure looks like a candidate for green paint!! When you get some seat time with the 260BH, I'd like to know how it performed and jst as importantly, where its weak. I know its not a full sized excavator but the sales team keep telling me I'd be surprised as long as I am patient as the hydraulics are slower. My concern is its ability to pull out large stumps and move rocks to clear property. I cant justify the $7400Cdn unless it does what I need it to do, which is to clear land for finishing, garage foundation and top finishing. I'd also be curious to see any pictures of a mechanical thumb if you have one.

In the meantime, the missus says I will have to wait for the 260BH (spent over 25k on this new toy so far in the last two months), so I will have to be satisfied to read with envy for now.

Thank you very much for that picture. Could I perhaps see a few more?

Cheers,

Gord

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Gord, I've had my 1026R for less than a week, and I'll admit that it hasn't moved any dirt yet. I only have weekends to play, and I'm kind of getting to know the tractor first.

You probably know that the subframe for the 260BH stays with the tractor and the BH "quick connects" on brackets just behind the PTO. You have to remove the 3PT trailing arms and top arm too. With the BH off, you can put the 3PT stuff back on fairly easily.

I think the attachment to the FEL arms frees up the main chassis mounting points for the MMM as I can see other mounting holes underneath. I'm not sure as I didn't need to get a MMM yet. Yeah, green paint would be good.

I did take a few more pics of the undercarriage showing the subframe and I will post tonight. You do lose a couple of inches of ground clearance just inboard of the rear wheels where there are a couple of support rods going around the transaxle, but I don't think it goes below the lowest point of the transmission.

In regard to a mechanical thumb, check out the Bro-Tek site, they look like a Kubota add-on site, but they also sell some items for JD.

Gotta get back to work, I'll post and discuss more as a I learn.

More photos 260BH subframe on 1026R

gngyoung said:

Thank you very much for that picture. Could I perhaps see a few more?

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Here are some more photos I had taken of the BH subframe. You'll also notice that the clearance between the frame and the rear tire will not allow chains to be used as it is. Maybe wheel spacers would help, but I'm not sure.

I also included a snapshot of the BH subframe installation manual which shows the pieces included (sorry for the poor quality).

If anyone wants additional pics, I can try this weekend.

Great pictures.

One thing i did notice is you have a "cap" covering you mid pto. I know this came up in one of the other threads, and some of use were looking to protect the mid pto when not in use. Does this have a part # on it, or is it like we may have discovered in the other post that is is just a temp cap for transportation? (and being you did not get a MMM they did not remove it)

Can we get some pictures of the back of the tractor without the BH installed when you get the opportunity? Thanks :thumbup1gif:

This is a great thread for those who are interested in a BH on a 1000 series.


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Sawdust said:

Great pictures.

One thing i did notice is you have a "cap" covering you mid pto. I know this came up in one of the other threads, and some of use were looking to protect the mid pto when not in use. Does this have a part # on it, or is it like we may have discovered in the other post that is is just a temp cap for transportation? (and being you did not get a MMM they did not remove it)

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It's a pretty thin temp cap that probably came on the tractor and it doesn't cover the entire shaft. It's about a inch short. There's one on the rear PTO also. I'll be looking for something better in the future.

dieselshadow said:

Can we get some pictures of the back of the tractor without the BH installed when you get the opportunity? Thanks :thumbup1gif:

This is a great thread for those who are interested in a BH on a 1000 series.

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Thanks, and I was planning to do just that. I've had the BH off, but only a few inches for curiosity, I didn't even disconnect the hydraulic hoses. I didn't want to drip too much fluid on my first day.

As I see there is a lot of interest, there'll be more pic to come. It's the least I can do for all the help I've gotten here so far.

Tomfive,
Impressive pictures, and with details. A true contributor. I enjoyed them all and want to say thanks.
You sure know how to set the bar high.

BH removed from 1026R - Photos

dieselshadow said:

Can we get some pictures of the back of the tractor without the BH installed when you get the opportunity? Thanks :thumbup1gif:

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Here you go.

The removal was fairly easy, took me about 3-4 minutes on the first try... including taking the pics. Reattachment took a little longer, probably about 8-10 minutes (without pics) because I wasn't sure how to close position the tractor and then re-positioning a couple of times.

Here's the removal sequence:
Put stabilizers down.
Drop bucket to unload the BH so the pins are loose.
Pull the pins in both sides.
Tilt the BH with the boom and it lifts and separates from the tractor.
Disconnect hydraulic lines and loop both (for dust issues on BH and need to do on PBK)
Drive away.

Reattachment is the just the reverse, but you may have to re-position and re-position and re-position ... just kidding, it's pretty easy once you get used to it.:lol:

The subframe stays with the tractor, which seems different from other BH's I seen. And after removal, you can put the 3PT hitch back on if needed.

Tomfive, that's great! Awesome post and excellent pictures. Better than anything currently on JDs website. :thumbup1gif: I'm sure I'm not the only one who will appreciate your time and effort here.


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Excellent photos

Tom,

By far you've exceeded any other online pictures that I could find. Thank you very much. I appreciate the effort you've taken. The pictures are very telling. It does look like the ground clearance is reduced some but at the same time the lower part of subframe would slide over rocks or obstructions fairly easily I think so I'm not concerned.

I would still like to know how you powerful it is. I've seen the kubota and woods offerings and at a glance they don't stack upmtomthe John Deere however the wallenstein model has 2400 pounds of digging force, about 400 more than the jd model but what sets the 260 apart is the quick hitch/no tools. Let us know how it does what you expect, and what it wouldnt do.

Thanks again

Gord

I fully agree, thank you for the awesome photos, as this has been troubling me for some time also. I am now almost ready to call the dealer to quote it. About what should I expect to pay out the door to add this to my stock 1026r?

My thanks to everyone too.

Regarding the price, I can only say that your dealer will probably quote between 4.5 to 5K for the 260BH installed. There will probably be shipping and installation costs added to the cost of the BH itself. As I tried to show, there was a bit of installation required for the subframe.

My dealer rolled all the added costs into one package with the tractor and FEL, so it's hard to tell exactly what your final price will be. (and I'm not sure if we're allowed to quote pricing on DT or not)

As for its capability, it may be a little while, last weekend, it got so cold here, I didn't spend much time using my tractor other than exploring. But I'll definitely post how well it does, I expect it to perform really well. I should be able to do some digging this coming weekend.

I know this is an old thread but I am considering getting a 260BH for my 1026. Great pictures of the sub frame and how it's installed. One concern I have now is the clearance on the rear tires. I use rear chains in the winter and the BH could be a show stopper for me if I can't use them. Has anyone here used chains with the sub frame on? Guess I could remove the sub frame for the winter but I assume that's not an easy job either. Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Caper said:

I know this is an old thread but I am considering getting a 260BH for my 1026. Great pictures of the sub frame and how it's installed. One concern I have now is the clearance on the rear tires. I use rear chains in the winter and the BH could be a show stopper for me if I can't use them. Has anyone here used chains with the sub frame on? Guess I could remove the sub frame for the winter but I assume that's not an easy job either. Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks!

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Welcome,
There are quite a few threads about using chains, if you search the term "spacers" you should find some. I think to play it however-it's best to get some 1-1/2" spacers to increase the clearance to the subframe.

Kennyd said:

Welcome,
There are quite a few threads about using chains, if you search the term "spacers" you should find some. I think to play it however-it's best to get some 1-1/2" spacers to increase the clearance to the subframe.

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Did they change the mounting framework for the MY2013 1025R 260 BH? I have yet to have any chain rub? I do not seem to have any issues. And no spacers.