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Hello, I just installed my brand new 260 backhoe on my 2305. I have read before where people complained about the speed and rapid/jerky movement of the boom. I have operated different backhoes in the past and owned one for 33 years so I chalked this up to inexperienced operators, WRONG! lol, this thing is all over the place. You can control it if you move the stick super slow then increase or decrease the input but that's just silly and non productive. I thought I remembered someone talking about installing a valve or a restrictor orifice. any ideas? Also the attaching pins to the sub frame have an excessive amount of clearance and when going from down pressure to dig to raising the boom it bangs hard. I think I will tack shims I mill to size to the sub frame rather than to bush and bore, any ideas or experience on that? Thank you in advance for any help.
 

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My only backhoe experience is with the 260 so I have no point of comparison otherwise. What I do is run the backhoe at slow idle until I gain a little muscle memory operating the controls then slowly ramp up the rpm to get a quicker response without banging the boom around. Since the digging force at 1500 rpm is the same at 2400 rpm, and only the cycle speed changes when you throttle up, I just keep the rpms down for more precise control. It does mean that it takes longer, but I could spend all day digging holes.
:thumbup1gif:
 

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slow down 260 bh

Hello, I just installed my brand new 260 backhoe on my 2305. I have read before where people complained about the speed and rapid/jerky movement of the boom. I have operated different backhoes in the past and owned one for 33 years so I chalked this up to inexperienced operators, WRONG! lol, this thing is all over the place. You can control it if you move the stick super slow then increase or decrease the input but that's just silly and non productive. I thought I remembered someone talking about installing a valve or a restrictor orifice. any ideas? Also the attaching pins to the sub frame have an excessive amount of clearance and when going from down pressure to dig to raising the boom it bangs hard. I think I will tack shims I mill to size to the sub frame rather than to bush and bore, any ideas or experience on that? Thank you in advance for any help.
If you get a good solution, I'd like to know it. Operating at or just off idle to 1500rpm works best for me, but it's slow.
 

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You can simply install a throttle valve,,,
or a blind fitting, with an appropriate size hole drilled, in one line.

For the non-every day user,,, these both give good results.

Both cause a little oil heating, but, if you are not all day digging,,,
it does not matter.
 

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Absolutely, they are not a large backhoe, but honestly, after you run it for a while and let yourself get used to it, you will get pretty good with it. I have used mine quite a bit and now have zero problems. IMHO these backhoes are no different than any other piece of equipment, you have to get used to it. I have operated every type of equipment, including cranes, and have yet to find two of the same type from different mfg. that operate the same. They just don't.
It is up to you as to what you want to do. Orificing constant hydraulic flow on a supply line is not a good idea as it will create tremendous amounts of heat in the oil. If you do install and orifice, it should be in the work ports.
 

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Absolutely, they are not a large backhoe, but honestly, after you run it for a while and let yourself get used to it, you will get pretty good with it. I have used mine quite a bit and now have zero problems. IMHO these backhoes are no different than any other piece of equipment, you have to get used to it. I have operated every type of equipment, including cranes, and have yet to find two of the same type from different mfg. that operate the same. They just don't.
It is up to you as to what you want to do. Orificing constant hydraulic flow on a supply line is not a good idea as it will create tremendous amounts of heat in the oil. If you do install and orifice, it should be in the work ports.
I agree with Ray.
I have been an operator for over 30 years.
The 260 is a dink that has one swing cylinder, etc. You just need the seat time with it or throttle it down a little.
I love it for what it is....MINE!:yahoo:
 

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Try to always boom with a secondary function - IMO this is why the boom is so fast when no other functions are running, they gave it more flow to allow for secondary operations.

Put a little time in the seat and it will become second nature. What you really have to watch out for is when you are getting good at it and run out of/quit travel on the secondary while booming up!!! You'll swear that boom is coming for your forehead not to mention the "clank" at the end of travel and debris emptying from your bucket onto your lap!

It's not a construction hoe, it is a tinker toy...but man does it beat a shovel and wheelbarrow!
 

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Try to always boom with a secondary function - IMO this is why the boom is so fast when no other functions are running, they gave it more flow to allow for secondary operations.

Put a little time in the seat and it will become second nature. What you really have to watch out for is when you are getting good at it and run out of/quit travel on the secondary while booming up!!! You'll swear that boom is coming for your forehead not to mention the "clank" at the end of travel and debris emptying from your bucket onto your lap!

It's not a construction hoe, it is a tinker toy...but man does it beat a shovel and wheelbarrow!
Yep.
Out of all of the functions the boom jump is the most annoying to me.
You notice it when you are trying to hold a ditch grade and it wants to pop up.
 

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I agree with Ray.
I have been an operator for over 30 years.
The 260 is a dink that has one swing cylinder, etc. You just need the seat time with it or throttle it down a little.
I love it for what it is....MINE!:yahoo:
I can just imagine how frustrating this is. All I've ever run are full size excavators and backhoes. When I was an instructor I insisted on smooth movements once the basics were learned.

Heck - I am still trying to get used to the non-self leveling bucket on my loader after 8 years.
 

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Over the past years , guessing I've used mine over 200 hrs. I've found out to important things
Don't get in a hurry and Keep the RPMs less than 2100 .

If I haven't used the BH for quite a while, I keep my hands just below the bottom of the control knobs ,seems to help ,my younger brother suggested doing this the first time he tried showing me how to use my new toy.:laugh:
It is no toy , far ,far better than a shovel.
 

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Yep.
Out of all of the functions the boom jump is the most annoying to me.
You notice it when you are trying to hold a ditch grade and it wants to pop up.
Try using the float function on the boom. Works great to hold grade...

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

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Over the past years , guessing I've used mine over 200 hrs. I've found out to important things
Don't get in a hurry and Keep the RPMs less than 2100 .

If I haven't used the BH for quite a while, I keep my hands just below the bottom of the control knobs ,seems to help ,my younger brother suggested doing this the first time he tried showing me how to use my new toy.:laugh:
It is no toy , far ,far better than a shovel.
My #46, could not handle the knobs, took them off....

IMG_0219_1.jpg
 

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Try using the float function on the boom. Works great to hold grade...
I've read that the 260 BH has this capability :dunno:, could you elaborate bit. Like how to engage the float mode.
 

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I've read that the 260 BH has this capability :dunno:, could you elaborate bit. Like how to engage the float mode.
Works just like the float on the FEL. Look at the picture on the front of the BH controls. Notice that the boom when pushed forward has two "functions" pictured - the first is the power down function. If you push beyond the stop on boom down the boom will go into float mode.

1487183553188.jpg

In float, you use the dipper to clean out the bottom and the curl to define the bite that you are taking. You are basically "wiggling" the curl and dipper between pull and curl for the length of the stride.

If you only want to clean the bottom of the ditch and not dig deeper, lay the bucket "flat" on the bottom of the ditch (i.e. angle the cutting edge to only scrape, not dig) and drag the dipper across the bottom - all this will holding the boom full forward in float mode. Because you only have the weight of the boom and not a power down boom the bucket will ride easily along the bottom of the ditch. As the ditch gets shallower/deeper, the bucket will follow the contour of the ditch.

When I dig I tend to be deeper out in the ditch away from the BH. To level it off I extend the dipper and drop the boom with my curl set level to the deepest part of the ditch, then I begin to dipper in. The bucket will ride level on the ditch until it hits the up-slope of the ditch and begin to dig. Depending on how much of a rise I have in the ditch I may either release float and take a full on bite at the correct level or simply let the bucket ride up the slope taking a small bite as it does.

Not sure if you ever used a hand plane or a jointer but it is the same kind of process. It lets you reference a flat/level surface (bottom of the bucket) to try and level material to a given plane.

So the tractor isn't green but this video demonstrates the float operation. Pay attention to his left hand you can see him push the boom into float.
 

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Thanks BBarn. The #46 doesn't have this feature.
Good write up for those that have the #260. :good2:

With the #46 I rake the ditch bottom to clean it then go back with a curled bucket (cutting edge off the bottom) holding down pressure I slide/pull the bucket along the ditch bottom packing it.
 

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Over the past years , guessing I've used mine over 200 hrs. I've found out to important things
Don't get in a hurry and Keep the RPMs less than 2100 .

If I haven't used the BH for quite a while, I keep my hands just below the bottom of the control knobs ,seems to help ,my younger brother suggested doing this the first time he tried showing me how to use my new toy.:laugh:
It is no toy , far ,far better than a shovel.
Similar to a method I used with people new to equipment. Even though the Gradall and excavators had electronic joy sticks, I would notice some guys who were struggling had a death grip on the joy sticks - like they had to put their own strength into them to make the machine dig. I would them force them to use their thumb and forefinger only. Lots of weird looks but they would get the idea in an hour or so.
 

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Did not know this... thanks for the tip!

Works just like the float on the FEL. Look at the picture on the front of the BH controls. Notice that the boom when pushed forward has two "functions" pictured - the first is the power down function. If you push beyond the stop on boom down the boom will go into float mode.

View attachment 314025

In float, you use the dipper to clean out the bottom and the curl to define the bite that you are taking. You are basically "wiggling" the curl and dipper between pull and curl for the length of the stride.

If you only want to clean the bottom of the ditch and not dig deeper, lay the bucket "flat" on the bottom of the ditch (i.e. angle the cutting edge to only scrape, not dig) and drag the dipper across the bottom - all this will holding the boom full forward in float mode. Because you only have the weight of the boom and not a power down boom the bucket will ride easily along the bottom of the ditch. As the ditch gets shallower/deeper, the bucket will follow the contour of the ditch.

When I dig I tend to be deeper out in the ditch away from the BH. To level it off I extend the dipper and drop the boom with my curl set level to the deepest part of the ditch, then I begin to dipper in. The bucket will ride level on the ditch until it hits the up-slope of the ditch and begin to dig. Depending on how much of a rise I have in the ditch I may either release float and take a full on bite at the correct level or simply let the bucket ride up the slope taking a small bite as it does.

Not sure if you ever used a hand plane or a jointer but it is the same kind of process. It lets you reference a flat/level surface (bottom of the bucket) to try and level material to a given plane.

So the tractor isn't green but this video demonstrates the float operation. Pay attention to his left hand you can see him push the boom into float.
 

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Works just like the float on the FEL. Look at the picture on the front of the BH controls. Notice that the boom when pushed forward has two "functions" pictured - the first is the power down function. If you push beyond the stop on boom down the boom will go into float mode.

View attachment 314025

In float, you use the dipper to clean out the bottom and the curl to define the bite that you are taking. You are basically "wiggling" the curl and dipper between pull and curl for the length of the stride.

If you only want to clean the bottom of the ditch and not dig deeper, lay the bucket "flat" on the bottom of the ditch (i.e. angle the cutting edge to only scrape, not dig) and drag the dipper across the bottom - all this will holding the boom full forward in float mode. Because you only have the weight of the boom and not a power down boom the bucket will ride easily along the bottom of the ditch. As the ditch gets shallower/deeper, the bucket will follow the contour of the ditch.

When I dig I tend to be deeper out in the ditch away from the BH. To level it off I extend the dipper and drop the boom with my curl set level to the deepest part of the ditch, then I begin to dipper in. The bucket will ride level on the ditch until it hits the up-slope of the ditch and begin to dig. Depending on how much of a rise I have in the ditch I may either release float and take a full on bite at the correct level or simply let the bucket ride up the slope taking a small bite as it does.

Not sure if you ever used a hand plane or a jointer but it is the same kind of process. It lets you reference a flat/level surface (bottom of the bucket) to try and level material to a given plane.

So the tractor isn't green but this video demonstrates the float operation. Pay attention to his left hand you can see him push the boom into float.
Ha!
Had no idea the boom had a float mode.
Never heard of such a thing on a backhoe. Lol
 
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