Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
927 Posts
I have looked everywhere it seems - does anyone make a hydraulic thumb kit for the 260B backhoe?

Otherwise - has anyone tried this newer one from BXpanded that bolts into existing holes on the 260B?

Factory Mount Barracuda BH Thumb

Thanks!
Just get the bxpanded thumb. I don't have the 260B (mine is a 260) so it mounts a little different. But it is relatively inexpensive, and very easy to use.
I have said this a million times, but if you are going to be pulling any stumps, get the bxpanded ripper tooth as well. Trust me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,656 Posts
Just get the bxpanded thumb. I don't have the 260B (mine is a 260) so it mounts a little different. But it is relatively inexpensive, and very easy to use.
I have said this a million times, but if you are going to be pulling any stumps, get the bxpanded ripper tooth as well. Trust me.
Two things I still need to order for my 260B. I was going to get the trenching bucket too, but its not that much smaller than the 8" bucket I have now, and Ive already paid for that one, lol.


As to the hydraulic thumb on the 260, I cant see much of an advantage, but it would add a bit of cost.
Youd need a 3rd function kit, separate from what you would use on the loader (because the location of the switch for it would be VERY hard to get to from the backhoe seat). Where would you run it from? Im sure you might be able to find a place in the backhoe, but Ive not ever looked. Someone else might know better where a good place to tap for something like that would be. Then youd need a cylinder, and hoses, and youd have to route them in such a way that they wouldnt interfere with anything or get caught while digging. It would most likely not be removable. You could add quick connects near the cylinder I suppose, and dismount the thumb.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,266 Posts
As to the hydraulic thumb on the 260, I cant see much of an advantage, but it would add a bit of cost.
Youd need a 3rd function kit, separate from what you would use on the loader (because the location of the switch for it would be VERY hard to get to from the backhoe seat). Where would you run it from? Im sure you might be able to find a place in the backhoe, but Ive not ever looked. Someone else might know better where a good place to tap for something like that would be. Then youd need a cylinder, and hoses, and youd have to route them in such a way that they wouldnt interfere with anything or get caught while digging. It would most likely not be removable. You could add quick connects near the cylinder I suppose, and dismount the thumb.
A manual or electric diverter on one of the stabilizer circuits is a great way to operate a hydraulic thumb. Hose are easy, you just follow the other ones up to the boom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,656 Posts
A manual or electric diverter on one of the stabilizer circuits is a great way to operate a hydraulic thumb. Hose are easy, you just follow the other ones up to the boom.
See, leave it to the pros, lol!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Bxpanded thumb

Hello All,
First time replying on GTT, so not sure if I'm posting correctly. Anyway, I recently installed the BXpanded thumb on my 260B. Very easy install and it works great. I have been using it to build rock walls for my wife's never ending landscape jobs. Picking rocks out of a pile and putting them in place. Easily folds up out of the way when not in use.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,045 Posts
A manual or electric diverter on one of the stabilizer circuits is a great way to operate a hydraulic thumb. Hose are easy, you just follow the other ones up to the boom.
Agreed with Kennyd!!!:good2:
Also, you can make any thumb hydraulic by removing the adjustable link with a cylinder of the correct length.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I attached the stationary thumb today and tried to pick up a large rock - it is definitely going to take some getting used to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
A manual or electric diverter on one of the stabilizer circuits is a great way to operate a hydraulic thumb. Hose are easy, you just follow the other ones up to the boom.
Ken,

You have way more experience at this than I do, but If I were going to go to the trouble and expense of adding a hydraulic thumb I would not want to add a diverter. I would add a 3rd ESCV with a button on the curl/dipper-stick lever. Number 1 your hand is already there if you are "thumbing" something. 2. You don't have to try and manipulate another lever that if you forget to divert flow to, will raise or lower your outrigger. 3) You are probably going to want control of the boom at this time and you would be out of hands. :unknown: I would think it would be easy to tee into any circuit before it goes to its respective valve to get fluid, as that is just a big manifold from the power beyond circuit.

If you are already going to the expense and effort to add a hydraulic thumb with an electric diverter, you might as well just make it an electric third function valve. Just takes :gizmo:

Just my $.39
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,266 Posts
Ken,

You have way more experience at this than I do, but If I were going to go to the trouble and expense of adding a hydraulic thumb I would not want to add a diverter. I would add a 3rd ESCV with a button on the curl/dipper-stick lever. Number 1 your hand is already there if you are "thumbing" something. 2. You don't have to try and manipulate another lever that if you forget to divert flow to, will raise or lower your outrigger. 3) You are probably going to want control of the boom at this time and you would be out of hands. :unknown: I would think it would be easy to tee into any circuit before it goes to its respective valve to get fluid, as that is just a big manifold from the power beyond circuit.

If you are already going to the expense and effort to add a hydraulic thumb with an electric diverter, you might as well just make it an electric third function valve. Just takes :gizmo:

Just my $.39
Well here is my $.01 added in since I hate odd numbers :lol:

With a true 3rd function, when you activate it ALL of the flow from the IN lines would be directed to the small thumb cylinder, so you may very well loose the other controls too.

Tee'ing into any circuit will not work, that would put the thumb and other cylinder in "parallel" and neither would function well.

I've not used a thumb before, but I do have quite a few hours in a mini-X and regular backhoes, but in my mind I'd think you would just move the thumb into a position and then mostly use the bucket curl to pull in things and clamp to the thumb-just as you would with a fixed version. I only advantage I see is that with a hydraulic one you can position or stow it from the seat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
Well here is my $.01 added in since I hate odd numbers :lol:

With a true 3rd function, when you activate it ALL of the flow from the IN lines would be directed to the small thumb cylinder, so you may very well loose the other controls too.

Tee'ing into any circuit will not work, that would put the thumb and other cylinder in "parallel" and neither would function well.

I've not used a thumb before, but I do have quite a few hours in a mini-X and regular backhoes, but in my mind I'd think you would just move the thumb into a position and then mostly use the bucket curl to pull in things and clamp to the thumb-just as you would with a fixed version. I only advantage I see is that with a hydraulic one you can position or stow it from the seat.
Ken,

Thanks for the response. (I'll add $.02 this time to keep things even :lol:) :hide: I do not see the flow issue as being a problem. Are not all of the functions on the backhoe for example plumbed in parallel already? With all of the controls in neutral fluid flows out to the backhoe into a pressure manifold (so to speak) and then back to return through whichever valve / cylinder combinations are selected. How would operating the thumb be any different than curling the bucket at the same time you are moving the boom and or dipper stick? Now if you moved all three of those and tried to move the thumb too, I can see things slowing down. (in my experience, with more than two functions going on at the same time with these systems stuff slows down) No different than raising and lowering the loader while curling the bucket, one or both are going to slow down.

If you do a lot of "thumb work" I can see the advantage to being able to move the thumb and curl the bucket. For example if you need to get in a narrow spot a curled bucket may be too large to meet a fixed thumb.


Jeff
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,266 Posts
Ken,

Thanks for the response. (I'll add $.02 this time to keep things even :lol:) :hide:
Thanks, I appreciate that LOL

I do not see the flow issue as being a problem. Are not all of the functions on the backhoe for example plumbed in parallel already?
Yes, but the valves in the stack are proportional so your not always directing the full flow to the circuit. A true 3rd function solenoid valve is ON or OFF, ALL or NOTHING.

With all of the controls in neutral fluid flows out to the backhoe into a pressure manifold (so to speak) and then back to return through whichever valve / cylinder combinations are selected. How would operating the thumb be any different than curling the bucket at the same time you are moving the boom and or dipper stick?
If the solenoid valve was on the IN side of the stack, there would be no fluid to the stack when operated.

Now if you moved all three of those and tried to move the thumb too, I can see things slowing down. (in my experience, with more than two functions going on at the same time with these systems stuff slows down) No different than raising and lowering the loader while curling the bucket, one or both are going to slow down.

If you do a lot of "thumb work" I can see the advantage to being able to move the thumb and curl the bucket. For example if you need to get in a narrow spot a curled bucket may be too large to meet a fixed thumb.


Jeff
See my replies above Jeff. Not saying I'm right or wrong, but maybe we are just thinking differently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,973 Posts
If I were going to go this route to actuate my thumb on my 46, I’d go with a diverter like Kenny mentions, but I would mount the controls on the stick of the BH that controls the bucket as Jet Dr said-as its the most useful and sensible spot. Having an Artillian diverter for my grapple and my plow I am fortunate enough to have experienced and enjoy the control provided by having a momentary switch I can feather gently or quickly to achieve the function I want. A thumb and a bucket being used to pick up a log, stone, etc. need to be able to be used slowly and precisely at times and quickly at others, that kind of differential function can really only be achieved with a diverter like an Artillian.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
See my replies above Jeff. Not saying I'm right or wrong, but maybe we are just thinking differently.
Ken,

In seeing an actual manifold removed from a backhoe (Your reference posts for switching backhoe from SAE to ISO) I see what you mean. That manifold just has a "goes insa" and a "goes outsa" line and then the all the pressure / return lines for the various cylinders. I was under the impression there was an actual manifold with hoses that went to the valve(s) and back to a return manifold. (Too much time with aircraft hydraulics; I guess).

So I guess the best way would be a compromise so to speak. A diverter valve in the line(s) for (in my opinion, bucket curl) with the switch mounted on the bucket / dipper stick lever.

Thanks. This was a good discussion, for something I may never use. :hide::thumbup1gif:

Jeff:bigbeer:
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top