[frankg]

Good afternoon everybody! Well, even though my lights aren't working, I'm still super excited. My wife and I just bought a 3.5 acre treed parcel of land and I recently started clearing trees from the footprint of the house. To help with doing that, I bought my first-ever tractor. I looked around at a few different Kubota's and New Holland's, but settled on a JD 2720. I'm hoping the 32 HP is enough tractor for what I need now, and will still be a sensible tractor for general use after the house is up. Anyway...I bought the tractor used and when I drove it off the trailer at our property, I tested the turn signals (not sure why), but they worked fine. I drove the tractor around the property a few times and then parked to check it out a little further. I tried the turn signals again and they no longer work. I then tried the headlights, nothing. Hazards, nothing. I did a general search in this Forum and for a different model tractor this issue turned out to be a bad switch. Does that sound like it could be the case here as well? If so, is that a fairly easy fix? Again, this is my first tractor. I have more tools than mechanical ability, but am certainly willing (and I believe capable). With that said, if this is going to require a major effort, I'm happy to leave it to the experts. I was considering taking it to the local JD dealer after I'm done using it to clear the trees (while the builder is starting his work) just to have them give it a once-over...some type of multi-point inspection to be sure that, in general, things appear to be working the way they should. This was no small investment and I want to be sure it is operating properly. If this lighting issue is one that should be handled by the experts, I can have it fixed when I take it in.

Thanks in advance for the information.

 

[jgayman]

Just to confirm, the tractor starts and runs fine and the only thing not working is the lights?

 

[frankg]

Just to confirm, the tractor starts and runs fine and the only thing not working is the lights?

That is correct.

 

[jgayman]

That is correct.

Have you checked all the fuses.

 

[frankg]

Have you checked all the fuses.

I have not done anything at this point. It seems awfully strange that 3 fuses would all go bad at the same time. I had checked both the hazards and the turn signals, both of which worked previously. Then, less than 30 minutes later, none of the lights are working. I suppose checking fuses is a good first step. Assuming the fuses are all good, looking for possible solutions.

 

[jgayman]

Maybe this diagram will help. Looking at the technical manual for things that all the lights have in common other than the light switch.

 

[frankg]

Thank you for the page from the the manual, but I have to admit ignorance when it comes to electrical diagrams. Are you suggesting that it could be something other than the switch that would impact all the lights?

 

[jgayman]

Looking at the diagram, assuming all the fuses are intact, other than a common ground it appears the only thing the lights have in common is the switch. I see there are separate fuses for the two headlights.

I assume the light switch still "feels" normal as you rotate it back and forth? Does the instrument panel work and does the tach light up at night? You could also check the plug on the back of the light switch to ensure it hasn't become loose or disconnected.

 

[frankg]

Yes, the switch doesn't feel loose at all. I'll check the fuses first, but then move towards replacing the switch. I appreciate all the information and time!

 

[frankg]

Do you happen to have the part number for that switch? I'm not sure if that's in the technical manual where the electrical diagram was?

 

[jgayman]

Do you happen to have the part number for that switch? I'm not sure if that's in the technical manual where the electrical diagram was?

No, they don't list any parts in the tech manual. Below is the parts illustration and part number.

Part Number:		AM879483
Part Price:		83.48 USD

Description:

Switch - SWITCH, LIGHT COMP.

 

[frankg]

Thanks again!

 

[KHodges]

I was considering taking it to the local JD dealer after I'm done using it to clear the trees (while the builder is starting his work) just to have them give it a once-over...some type of multi-point inspection to be sure that, in general, things appear to be working the way they should. This was no small investment and I want to be sure it is operating properly. If this lighting issue is one that should be handled by the experts, I can have it fixed when I take it in.

What year model is the tractor, and how many hours on it? The 2720 is a great machine, but who knows how it was treated before you got it? If the lights were working one minute, but not the next, it may be as little as a loose connection or a fusable link. It's probably not a bad idea to have a Deere mechanic give it a good once-over for any other issues. Do you know when it was last serviced (oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, transmission oil and filter? Does it start easily and not smoke after 30 seconds or so? You're correct, you made a big investment and these machines, when properly looked after and maintained, will give long years of service.

 

[frankg]

What year model is the tractor, and how many hours on it? The 2720 is a great machine, but who knows how it was treated before you got it? If the lights were working one minute, but not the next, it may be as little as a loose connection or a fusable link. It's probably not a bad idea to have a Deere mechanic give it a good once-over for any other issues. Do you know when it was last serviced (oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter, transmission oil and filter? Does it start easily and not smoke after 30 seconds or so? You're correct, you made a big investment and these machines, when properly looked after and maintained, will give long years of service.

The tractor only has 540 hours on it, which for a 2008 tractor, seems hardly used. With that said, just like any other engine-driven machine, not used enough can be just as bad as used too much. That's why I was planning to take it in.

 

[Tomfive]

Depending on your electrical abilities, I would check fuses and check the switch before I would spend $80+ dollars for a new switch. If you have a volt-ohmeter and know how to use it, the checks aren't too difficult.

But first off, looking at the electrical schematic posted earlier, F1 looks like a main fuse/fusible link, and F4 feeds all the light circuits as they are both before the light switch. F6 and F7 are after the switch and connect the flashing circuit and headlights/taillights circuits respectively.

If only the lights are affected, then start with F4. If F1 blew, I think that other things would not work, but it doesn't hurt to check it too. So if F4 looks good, check to see if you have 12V at the switch. Then check whether there is continuity between the switch terminals as you rotate the switch. You can then check further down the line.

There is a possibility of a bad ground, but there should be multiple paths from bulbs back to ground, or they are grounded to the frame at multiple locations. It doesn't hurt to check grounds too.

It's hard to diagnose remotely, but this should be a start ... good luck

Just my 2 cents.

 

[frankg]

Depending on your electrical abilities, I would check fuses and check the switch before I would spend $80+ dollars for a new switch. If you have a volt-ohmeter and know how to use it, the checks aren't too difficult.

But first off, looking at the electrical schematic posted earlier, F1 looks like a main fuse/fusible link, and F4 feeds all the light circuits as they are both before the light switch. F6 and F7 are after the switch and connect the flashing circuit and headlights/taillights circuits respectively.

If only the lights are affected, then start with F4. If F1 blew, I think that other things would not work, but it doesn't hurt to check it too. So if F4 looks good, check to see if you have 12V at the switch. Then check whether there is continuity between the switch terminals as you rotate the switch. You can then check further down the line.

There is a possibility of a bad ground, but there should be multiple paths from bulbs back to ground, or they are grounded to the frame at multiple locations. It doesn't hurt to check grounds too.

It's hard to diagnose remotely, but this should be a start ... good luck

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for your response. I have VERY limited electrical abilities. I could certainly look at the two fuses, but beyond that, I think I would be over my head. Heck, at this point, I've been looking all over the internet trying to determine how to remove the dash assembly. I'm "assuming" that's what I would have to do to replace the switch, unless I'll be able to get to it from behind the dash after lifting the hood. This is all made more difficult because the tractor is not physically outside where I live. While this is not a huge property, the tractor is in great shape and I like my "tools" to work as they should.

 

[jgayman]

Depending on your electrical abilities, I would check fuses and check the switch before I would spend $80+ dollars for a new switch. If you have a volt-ohmeter and know how to use it, the checks aren't too difficult.

Here are the tests for the switch. Also included is illustration showing cowl mounting screws. According to step #2 below, they recommend just lifting the dash panel enough to access the light switch connector. Not sure how true that is.

 

[KHodges]

…….. unless I'll be able to get to it from behind the dash after lifting the hood.

Fuel tank is in the way; I think you have to remove it anyway as part of deconstructing the pedestal.

 

[frankg]

Looking more and more like a stealership job!

 

[coaltrain]

To change the switch you will need to remove or at least loosen the dash cowl to move it back enough to access behind it.

The first step is removing the steering wheel. That steering wheel has been on there for 12 years and isn’t going to just pop off.

I had to remove mine a couple years ago when I added a temp gauge. I followed the advise here - I soaked the steering wheel shaft (where the nut is) for 3 days with penetrating oil. I sprayed it 3 times a day for 3 days before I even attempted it. Then using my knees to out upward pressure in it I tapped it all around with a 3# hammer - popped off with the 3rd tap.

After that it’s just removing the throttle lever which is easy and 4 or 5 small bolts/srews.