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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Dash light came on, my manual says it’s low fluid or clogged filter. 3 leaks on it so I was pretty sure it was fluid. Every time I checked it showed full. I did what a friend said, wait over night, let it cool down then check fluid levels. I checked hydraulic and it’s still showing to much, just guessing I’d say 3-4qts maybe even more. I resently changed engine oil and 1qt will move fluid up on the dipstick slightly over .25 inch. That knocking is coming from the hydraulic pump. If it’s under pressure (turning wheel) the pump doesn’t knock anymore.... last owner put new fluid in it. He owned a mechanic shop but I wouldn’t be surprised if they messed up, seems like if you don’t do it yourself there will always be a problem. I’ve been running it a few months now and it hasn’t been knocking, front loader bleeding down fast was the only issue, occasionally the loader would jerk going up until everything got warm, still strong, would pull trees and lift 2,400lb pallets ... believe the pump is messed up but I’ll go through the other steps first before spending I believe $800 on a new one

A man mentioned if it’s low the pump should whine not knock.

Tazzman:

Follow up, The AC Is working great, everything drains like it should, no leaks, will freeze you out of it on 100 degree day. I turned it off thinking less pull on motor maybe it would help cool. Don’t believe I’m having a engine cooling problem just a problem with the old factory gauge, maybe sensor. Someone said to much hydro fluid may cause heating so I need to look into that. I will replace it will a new water coolant gauge since one stated a pyro gauge is most for turbo operated machines like my truck.

I’ve only been using the 8ft offset that’s sorta when the hydraulics started acting up. It’s a very slow go but I like it, needs new front blades because notches are worn smooth. I don’t think it needs to be done every year. Sorta happy I just found tires for it and took the cylinder off the 14ft to operate it. Probably will park it under a tree lol. The 14ft, here in Texas my weather app says we have some rain coming next week. Ground is so dry that’s why I hit it with the offset thinking maybe even if it’s a little rain it will soak in.

Stopped on the hwy and spoke with older man who always has a nice field of oats. He told me to put fertile out and disc it lightly in the ground out of the sun, rain or no rain. Then 100lb an acre of bob oats around the first of oct. after that throw 20 lb an acre of rye grass out over the oats to protect then against winter. Saying oats thrive now-dec, feb-March they stop then going into spring they kick it into high gear so they can seed. 80 year old man... seemed to know a lot. Rotates his cattle over 100 acres sorta like me but I’ve only got 30. Rotate the cattle and they become less picky and it tricks their minds they will eat weeds and such. All this talk was hitting home with me because I noticed the same thing with my herd. States that oats have so much protein he only puts the herd on them for 2 hrs then back on dry grass. Doing this he’s never bought hay. This again is hitting home run with me since the hay field may not be big enough for a 3rd cut and I was thinking about grazing it and rotating them, this was before the older man even mentioned it. My reason was that i wanted a good stand of oats and the cows may eat them down to fast.
 

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I read something about burnt bushings May be causing the problem? Bushings in the pump I’m guessing... the man seemed like it was a easy fix... im mechanically inclined but I can’t say I know much about tractors. So far everything is a hard learning experience. Replacing AC took me over a month. To me that’s embarrassing.
 

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2950 Hydraulic oil level should be check with tractor at operating temperature and engine idling.

Noise from the main pump is most likely coming from the main pump drive. Check condition of Cushion #3, Couplings #2 and #4, Cap Screws #5, Splines inside Drive Shaft #6 and Splines on Pump Shaft. Also where screws #1 retain coupling to the engine crank pulley.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
2950 Hydraulic oil level should be check with tractor at operating temperature and engine idling.

Noise from the main pump is most likely coming from the main pump drive. Check condition of Cushion #3, Couplings #2 and #4, Cap Screws #5, Splines inside Drive Shaft #6 and Splines on Pump Shaft. Also where screws #1 retain coupling to the engine crank pulley.

That does make since since it’s spinning fast. When I check the condition of cushion and couplers what exactly am I looking for? Slack? Would something in the drive cause the dash light to come on as well? I was under it earlier after looking at my manual. Will replace the filter and clean the screen before I mess with the pump... the drive spins the pump besides noise it still isnt working right as far as how hydraulic systems should work. Has to be at a high rpm around 1500 to function. In one of the instructions in my manual it says “carefully install new packing coated with grease in transmission case grooves” this sounds like Spanish. Will it be self explanatory when I order the new filter then unbolt that cover to expose the old. Guessing the new filter comes... with grease on it.

I’ve been trying to find out oil capacity for the system but I’m not having any luck. JD dealership may have it when I order filter.

Last question, on a older tractor can I get by with cheaper fluid then the JD brand? When I changed it in the 2015 model i went with there’s because I was told the breaks run in it blah blah blah but it was $120 for 5 gallon buckets if I’m remembering right. I have half a bucket left. Haven’t checked but maybe it hasn’t sweated and allowed moisture inside the bucket.
 

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The 29 series tractors are famous for getting internal leaks, which could cause the oil to overheat. You should take some pressure readings around the tractor and make sure all pressures are good, theres a port to read high low shift, should be around 160 psi.
 

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The 29 series tractors are famous for getting internal leaks, which could cause the oil to overheat. You should take some pressure readings around the tractor and make sure all pressures are good, theres a port to read high low shift, should be around 160 psi.
Internal leaks got brought up once when I was asking people about the loader falling down. That was months ago.... say it over heats, on morning start up the oil should be normal. On start up the dash light pops on immediately saying low fluid or clogged filters.

I did text the last owner to see if he cleaned the filters when he drained and changed the oil. He never replied back. I wanna take that as a no....
 

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A internal leak could give low pressure readings at idle which would cause that light to come on, then when you increase throttle, pressures rise light goes out, but the leak would cause the system to work harder creating more heat. Not saying you have a leak, but there are test ports that you can get a idea of the tractors condition.
 

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That does make since since it’s spinning fast. When I check the condition of cushion and couplers what exactly am I looking for? Slack? Would something in the drive cause the dash light to come on as well? I was under it earlier after looking at my manual. Will replace the filter and clean the screen before I mess with the pump... the drive spins the pump besides noise it still isnt working right as far as how hydraulic systems should work. Has to be at a high rpm around 1500 to function. In one of the instructions in my manual it says “carefully install new packing coated with grease in transmission case grooves” this sounds like Spanish. Will it be self explanatory when I order the new filter then unbolt that cover to expose the old. Guessing the new filter comes... with grease on it.

I’ve been trying to find out oil capacity for the system but I’m not having any luck. JD dealership may have it when I order filter.

Last question, on a older tractor can I get by with cheaper fluid then the JD brand? When I changed it in the 2015 model i went with there’s because I was told the breaks run in it blah blah blah but it was $120 for 5 gallon buckets if I’m remembering right. I have half a bucket left. Haven’t checked but maybe it hasn’t sweated and allowed moisture inside the bucket.
The filter will not come with grease on it. You need to put grease on the packing, key 1 and install in the transmission case, then install the filter in the housing as a unit. When I did my 2030 last time I pinched the packing and had a massive leak at startup :nunu: Then I tried putting the packing on the filter housing, but it did not fit the housing right, second massive leak :hide: Finally I installed in the transmission case as I should have first and no leaks :yahoo:

I am guessing your tractor holds about 13 gallons. I would buy John Deere Hy Gard. Last time I bought some in July it was $70 for a 5 gallon pail.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That does make since since it’s spinning fast. When I check the condition of cushion and couplers what exactly am I looking for? Slack? Would something in the drive cause the dash light to come on as well? I was under it earlier after looking at my manual. Will replace the filter and clean the screen before I mess with the pump... the drive spins the pump besides noise it still isnt working right as far as how hydraulic systems should work. Has to be at a high rpm around 1500 to function. In one of the instructions in my manual it says “carefully install new packing coated with grease in transmission case grooves” this sounds like Spanish. Will it be self explanatory when I order the new filter then unbolt that cover to expose the old. Guessing the new filter comes... with grease on it.

I’ve been trying to find out oil capacity for the system but I’m not having any luck. JD dealership may have it when I order filter.

Last question, on a older tractor can I get by with cheaper fluid then the JD brand? When I changed it in the 2015 model i went with there’s because I was told the breaks run in it blah blah blah but it was $120 for 5 gallon buckets if I’m remembering right. I have half a bucket left. Haven’t checked but maybe it hasn’t sweated and allowed moisture inside the bucket.
The filter will not come with grease on it. You need to put grease on the packing, key 1 and install in the transmission case, then install the filter in the housing as a unit. When I did my 2030 last time I pinched the packing and had a massive leak at startup
Then I tried putting the packing on the filter housing, but it did not fit the housing right, second massive leak
Finally I installed in the transmission case as I should have first and no leaks


I am guessing your tractor holds about 13 gallons. I would buy John Deere Hy Gard. Last time I bought some in July it was $70 for a 5 gallon pail.
Thanks for the information I’m sure I’ll need it and it was probably $75 for 5 gallons when I purchased it lol. Seems like everything together with the filter was over 200 for the 2015 model. All I know is thinking that the oil was to high but I’m pretty cheap lol.

I’d like to say what happened and maybe hear what someone thinks might’ve caused this. I went this morning to start it, heard it knocking and cut it off. Then I read to check it with it running and in neutral. Go outside to do that but left the key on with AC fan blowing and batteries dead so charged the batteries. Charge it up, go outside and start it to check the level of fluid. Said to myself the hell with the knocking I need to know the fluid level. So it was running idle then I use the loader and it was jerky. Idle it up and then everything started working fine after a minute. No more knocking either. The i idled it down thinking well it always worked better idled up and the motor is to loud to hear knocking. Idle it down, no more knocking and everything works like it did before (Fixed itself) knock on wood.

I check the fluid and just like with the machine off it’s to high. I didn’t drain it like a normal person yet filled my disc hydraulic line up then unhooked it and pressed it on the disk to let it spew out (tree huggers love me)... I did this about 16 times lol. I believe it’s at the right level now. Everything seems to work fine. What do y’all think caused this? Air in the pump? Oil got to hot like the guy above said? I was working it solid in the field for hours. Shouldn’t have gotten air in the lines. I though that stuff was suppose to work it’s way out.
 

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I think there are other hyd oil that meet J20C spec's but they won't be the cheaper type hyd oils some businesses sells. Repairing hyd problems on closed center hyd system can be costly so definitely use good oil that meets the JD oil spec's. I recommend besides changing hyd filter to check/clean sump screen(key 30) & check to be sure filter relief valve(keys 18 & 20) is seating & not stuck open. On subject of planting oats I planted them for yrs to graze yearlings on & never had any Winter weather killed oats & you live further south than me.
 

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Ditto on checking the sump screen. I was unable to get mine out of the 2030 :banghead: Maybe with a rear tire off and an impact I could have :dunno:, but I was not having hydraulic problems that would be related to the screen.

I recently changed the fluid in the 6415. I had to buy 15 gallons of HyGard :gizmo: and two different hydraulic filters :gizmo: It has three drain plugs and the O-rings on them were almost $4 each. The screen cap also had an o ring. About $400 to do this service myself just for parts and fliud.

It's screen was easy to remove :good2: and had very little debrie on it. It had some lint that might have been shop towels, very small metal chips from machining (they had a blue tint) and some very small blue plastic? particles.

I think this the first time the screen has been out :nunu: I got the clogged filter light at 2700 hours. I had planned to change filters and oil at 3000 hours. When I replaced the filters the spin filter (the other is in a housing) was still painted JD green.
I now think the original owner never did the 100 hour filters and oil change, or the changes every 750 hours :nunu::nunu::nunu: The oil that came out was dark and a little thicker than HyGard looks new. There was some "sludge" in the housing for the one filter, dark gray, looked like a light weight grease :dunno:

I would not go cheap, I doubt a cheap oil would have held up as long as HyGard did.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ditto on checking the sump screen. I was unable to get mine out of the 2030
Maybe with a rear tire off and an impact I could have
, but I was not having hydraulic problems that would be related to the screen.

I recently changed the fluid in the 6415. I had to buy 15 gallons of HyGard
and two different hydraulic filters
It has three drain plugs and the O-rings on them were almost $4 each. The screen cap also had an o ring. About $400 to do this service myself just for parts and fliud.

It's screen was easy to remove
and had very little debrie on it. It had some lint that might have been shop towels, very small metal chips from machining (they had a blue tint) and some very small blue plastic? particles.

I think this the first time the screen has been out
I got the clogged filter light at 2700 hours. I had planned to change filters and oil at 3000 hours. When I replaced the filters the spin filter (the other is in a housing) was still painted JD green.
I now think the original owner never did the 100 hour filters and oil change, or the changes every 750 hours
The oil that came out was dark and a little thicker than HyGard looks new. There was some "sludge" in the housing for the one filter, dark gray, looked like a light weight grease


I would not go cheap, I doubt a cheap oil would have held up as long as HyGard did.
I had a 2015 with 250hrs just as clogged as yours but it was white paper like material for some reason. Hydraulics on that tractor were short. Cost around 300 for the filter and 2 5 gallon buckets. Still have half a bucket left over.
 

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I think there are other hyd oil that meet J20C spec's but they won't be the cheaper type hyd oils some businesses sells. Repairing hyd problems on closed center hyd system can be costly so definitely use good oil that meets the JD oil spec's. I recommend besides changing hyd filter to check/clean sump screen(key 30) & check to be sure filter relief valve(keys 18 & 20) is seating & not stuck open. On subject of planting oats I planted them for yrs to graze yearlings on & never had any Winter weather killed oats & you live further south than me.
Tx did the cold weather stunt your oats? I think that’s what the old man meant. If I read right weather has to get around 15 degrees to kill them.

And your diagram, I have no clue where that is on the tractor but I’ll try to locate the area. If it will just stay running long enough to do this work I’ll definitely change it all soon as the first of January hits. Right now I’ve got plenty of tax deductions for the year and the tractors breaking me $$$..... next year is paint, new tires, hydraulic change. Just changed the oil in it last month. Bought two 5 gallon buckets on sale. The rest should cover a oil change in the dually.
 

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Oats always go dormant during the Winter. IMHO I think ryegrass will do more harm to oat stand than good BUT ryegrass beats the heck out of a snowball for cattle feed. Do you know where hyd filter is located on your tractor? Screen in photo is located a little to the rear of hyd filter.
 

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Oats always go dormant during the Winter. IMHO I think ryegrass will do more harm to oat stand than good BUT ryegrass beats the heck out of a snowball for cattle feed. Do you know where hyd filter is located on your tractor? Screen in photo is located a little to the rear of hyd filter.
Here is what my manual pulls up, I got under it yesterday and found the trans filter, screen and 3 drains.

20lbs an acre on rye is pretty light tho right? The old man has a really nice field. I’m not one to just stop and talk unless I’m impressed and want to learn or want to buy something. Maybe since it goes dormant he’s planting it also so cattle can graze it, not for hay. I know native rye pisses me off it gets in my coastal because the first cut is dried rye and spring flowers. I Pull cattle and let it seed out where I graze....I’m not sure really. Where you grazing yours or bailing? If I were to bail oats I wouldn’t plant rye
 

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While growing up my Dad planted oats every fall. He grazed his beef cattle until about Feb 1 then when oat seed heads reached early milk stage then he cut & sq baled the hay. I'll bet with the invasion of ryegrass in fields in Texas you'll have plenty of ryegrass in your oats similar to your Coastal fields without planting any ryegrass seed. For several yrs after '87 before I became disabled I planted oats strictly for winter grazing for yearlings.
 

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While growing up my Dad planted oats every fall. He grazed his beef cattle until about Feb 1 then when oat seed heads reached early milk stage then he cut & sq baled the hay. I'll bet with the invasion of ryegrass in fields in Texas you'll have plenty of ryegrass in your oats similar to your Coastal fields without planting any ryegrass seed. For several yrs after '87 before I became disabled I planted oats strictly for winter grazing for yearlings.
Do you remember how much fertilizer he put on and at what stage. I know one man who won’t Fertilize till they are up and 3-4 inches. Then there’s the only man I spoke with that plows his fertilizer in the ground because he doesn’t want to drive over them. Oats probably have lots of protien. We only do round because of no storage but good square bales with protien. Cattle don’t need that much in a round bale...
 

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Too much water has run under the bridge for me to remember the type/amount of fertilizer my Dad applied to a crop as that was 60+ yrs ago. I choose to cover fertilizer with soil whenever I have the opportunity to limit fert lose due to voliltalzation(sp). Back when I planted oats for grazing I had 250#-300# N-P-K with sulfur fert(per soil analysis) & then 120# oats per acre slung out by fert truck then I went over ground with field cultivator. The fellow that owned the yearlings did the same thing.
 

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Too much water has run under the bridge for me to remember the type/amount of fertilizer my Dad applied to a crop as that was 60+ yrs ago. I choose to cover fertilizer with soil whenever I have the opportunity to limit fert lose due to voliltalzation(sp). Back when I planted oats for grazing I had 250#-300# N-P-K with sulfur fert(per soil analysis) & then 120# oats per acre slung out by fert truck then I went over ground with field cultivator. The fellow that owned the yearlings did the same thing.
Ok thanks tx 120lbs an acre seems like a lot through my old seed drill but I sure like the way it looks when it’s sprouts. I’m going to call JD and price the filter stuff. Dunno which part of Texas your in but south it’s flooding. Not much yet in central but I’ve got the ground tore up real good. 3 inches of hard rain shouldn’t drain just sit. Then I’ll hit it with the other disk and smooth it up.
 
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