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Discussion Starter #1
After some great feedback from the forum over the last while I was just about to pull the trigger on a new 2038R with the 220R loader and 270B backhoe, but decided to take one more look at the 3R tractors. The obvious difference is the weight (about 450 lb on the base tractor) but what I hadn't paid attention to was the substantial difference in specs by moving up to 3R with the 320R loader and 385A backhoe. The total loader lift spec isn't much higher (about 10%) but the breakout force is almost 50% higher. The backhoe difference (at least by specification) is huge - again around 50% more dipperstick and bucket digging force and a whopping 300+% boom lift (256 lb vs 820 lb). Even the Kubota BH77 hoe on their little B series tractors dwarfs the 270B backhoe specs.

So here's my question: is the actual working difference between these 2R and 3R tractors and attachments as notable as the difference in specs would suggest? Has anyone every used both back to back, particularly in tough loader/backhoe situations? Are people satisfied with the loader and hoe capability on the 2R? For that matter, does anyone have experience with the Kubota B series tractors with the BH77 hoe vs the 2 Series with the 270B hoe? (I'm still planning to buy the Deere but the lower spec of the 270B is frustrating)

Here in Canada, the cost upper with loader and backhoe between the 2038R and the 3039R is a bit over $8k, so it's quite a step up in cost. Moreover, I'll be trailering the tractor frequently (65 miles each way) and working in the bush, so the lighter and slightly narrower 2038R is appealing, although the higher ground clearance of the 3R might also come in handy in the rocky terrain. And of course there is also the much higher front axle load spec on the 3R....

Decisions, decisions....
Any and all input would be greatly appreciated!
 

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For comparison: I had a B3200 with a LA504 FEL.

I now have a 3039R with a H160 FEL. I had the option of the higher capacity H165 when I purchased the tractor, but it would have meant an additional delay. The H160 had better spec's than the loader I had, and it did most everything that I needed it to do.

The orange loader had a 54" bucket with a Piranha toothbar. The green loader has a 60" bucket with a Piranha toothbar.

The loader on the 3039R is hands down better / more capable than my previous tractor. Some of that capability gain I attribute to being on a larger frame size tractor with more weight and power, or what I call grunt.

I have the 375A backhoe. I have never had a backhoe on any other S/CUT. I did have / use a JD110 TLB in the past.

If I wanted to I could toss the 3039R around with the 375A. The 385A you are looking at has even more ability.

Personally I would not want a backhoe on a lighter / smaller tractor.

*** I know there are several with the 1 & 2 series that are very happy with their backhoes and I am not saying that they aren't capable machines. *** :flag_of_truce:

What I am saying is if I had a choice between a 2 series backhoe and a 3 series backhoe, I'd go with the 3 everyday of the week and twice on Sunday....:kidw_truck_smiley:

I did look at adding the BH77 to my B3200. It felt small compared to the 375A. What is absolutely no comparison is how they mount to the tractor. I can install or remove the 375A effortlessly in a matter of minutes.

Hope this helps. Good luck in your search, and remember, we like pictures. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Sounds like you are trying to find someone to say $8k for a stronger backhoe and a few differences is worth it! See if you can rent both first and then decide. I wish I had, because it is difficult to tell if a tractor is the “right” tractor for your applications before you sign on the dotted line. My mistake was buying a 1025r thinking it was all I ever needed, until it wasn’t. Having upgraded to the 2038r I feel like I have the right machine now. Minus the backhoe I should have got :banghead:
 

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Since this is a huge decision and one you will have to live with for a long time, see if your dealer will let you try each out. My dealer had a pile of stone and dirt at the back of their lot where you could try out the machines.

Even though you wouldn’t actually be digging into virgin ground you would still get a very good feel of the capacity of each machine.

As you said, it is about impossible to make a decision like this just on spec sheets.
 

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Are people satisfied with the loader and hoe capability on the 2R?
No. I'm not. The curl function is weak. I can lift things easily that I can't curl. For example, I sold an RC2048 rotary cutter a few weeks ago. It weighs a little over 500lbs. I put it on a pallet and lifted it with the loader. The guy buying it said, "Can you curl it a little so it doesn't slide off?"

No, I can't, sorry, my loader is too weak. :(

Here in Canada, the cost upper with loader and backhoe between the 2038R and the 3039R is a bit over $8k, so it's quite a step up in cost.
Well it's a good thing the 3033R is a lot less than that, and is about the cost of a 2038R, and HP isn't nearly as important as most people think. :)

Any and all input would be greatly appreciated!
If I were buying a tractor today, and if I never owned a 2R with its superior ergonomics (e.g. integrated rear SCVs vs. slapped-on rear SCVs, better control layout, etc.), I wouldn't even consider it. I would go straight to the 3033R or 3039R, or maybe 3046R. The 3033R would be all I need, HP wise (I don't run a business with my tractor, so a minute here or there doesn't matter to me) but since I can afford a 3046R, and these crazy doubled warranties mean I won't care as much if the turbo+dpf melt my entire engine compartment, it's like...why not. Although...I'd probably opt for the 3039, because getting 50% more power from the same engine block (3046vs3033) just doesn't feel right to me. It's not a twin tubro, so it's going to be missing something somewhere in the power range.

If I had known what I know now when I bought my 2032R, I would have bought a 3033R without a second thought.

Now...having owned a 2R, it would be hard to downgrade to the comparatively primitive user interface of the 3R. This is why I am waiting for JD to redesign the 3R to make it more "modern" like the 2R, and then I'm trading. I don't really care how long it takes, since I love my 2032. What I want is a 2032 with larger tires and more loader and three point lift.
 

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If I had known what I know now when I bought my 2032R, I would have bought a 3033R without a second thought.
I have the 1st generation 2032R but would echo this. Every time I go to the dealer for anything I wander the lot looking at machines and kick myself for not buying a cabbed 3039R right off the bat.
 

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No. I'm not. The curl function is weak. I can lift things easily that I can't curl. For example, I sold an RC2048 rotary cutter a few weeks ago. It weighs a little over 500lbs. I put it on a pallet and lifted it with the loader. The guy buying it said, "Can you curl it a little so it doesn't slide off?"

No, I can't, sorry, my loader is too weak. :(
Get Ken’s pressure gauge and turn it up! (Within specifications)
 

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For dirt work the loader on my 2038r is plenty. I have the standard size materials bucket and I can pickup a overflowing bucket full 95% of the time without issue. The only time I couldn’t was when it was sopping wet clay. All other dirts (wet or not) and gravel it picks up fine. But once you switch over to using forks... That’s where you can hit the limits easier. Occasionally I’ll have to take a couple pieces of fire wood off my pallet to be able to lift it 6” off the ground (see pic). My next tractor will be a 3r with a cab, more for the cab/AC then loader. But I will hold out until the 3r gets a redesign. The 2r’s operator station ergonomics is that much better.




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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

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I had a 3046r with the H165 loader. I now have a 2038r with 220r. You can definitely tell a difference in the overall power between the two tractors.

If I could spend your money I would get the 3046r. It’ll put a smile on your face and the ehydro is awesome!


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It seemed that my 220R was weak, so I check my Tractors pressures. I was toping out at about 2700 PSI, the spec is 2488-3040 PSI, so I adjusted mine up to about 3000 PSI. I haven't had the chance to lift something heavy yet, so I can't tell if it made much of a difference.
 

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My pressure is fine. It can lift a 1500lb stack of firewood, plus the extra weight of cheap Titan forks, to about 60". The curl function is just weak on many of these compacts. The 2R is much stronger than the 3E, and the 3R has the strongest one of the "little" compacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like you are trying to find someone to say $8k for a stronger backhoe and a few differences is worth it! See if you can rent both first and then decide. I wish I had, because it is difficult to tell if a tractor is the “right” tractor for your applications before you sign on the dotted line. My mistake was buying a 1025r thinking it was all I ever needed, until it wasn’t. Having upgraded to the 2038r I feel like I have the right machine now. Minus the backhoe I should have got :banghead:
I really wish I could rent both of the units I’m considering but there’s no dealership in the area that has rentals. Glad you feel the 2038R is the right machine for you. Adding the backhoe might be a nice wish for Father’s Day!
 

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Since this is a huge decision and one you will have to live with for a long time, see if your dealer will let you try each out. My dealer had a pile of stone and dirt at the back of their lot where you could try out the machines.

Even though you wouldn’t actually be digging into virgin ground you would still get a very good feel of the capacity of each machine.

As you said, it is about impossible to make a decision like this just on spec sheets.
Great idea - I truly wish I could. The local dealers don’t have any units with backhoes- they tend to only order them in as needed. Thats why I posted question to get the views from others with first-hand experience.
 
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Great idea - I truly wish I could. The local dealers don’t have any units with backhoes- they tend to only order them in as needed. Thats why I posted question to get the views from others with first-hand experience.
Same here with my dealer and many other Deere dealers in the area. No dealers seem to want to order tractors on speculation that it may sell, not too far down the road. So, as you say, if you want to "try" out these things, such as backhoes etc.,,.. what are you to do? You're then stuck ordering blind and hope that it works out for you.

Even when Deere has their "Drive Green Event", "Green Tag Days", it has always surprised me what little variety of any particular series they have on hand. By way of example...after the new Gen 2 2025R's came out.....my previous Deere dealer had two in the springtime a year or so ago and has not had one since then. :dunno:
 

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Great idea - I truly wish I could. The local dealers don’t have any units with backhoes- they tend to only order them in as needed. Thats why I posted question to get the views from others with first-hand experience.
Ask your dealer / salesperson if they have a customer who bought one that you could talk to.

I have done a couple "demos" for my salesman. When they bought their machine, I got a referral credit.

He doesn't call me unless he knows the buyer is serious.


Dealers don't keep some of this in stock because of floorplan costs and inventory taxes.
 

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My pressure is fine. It can lift a 1500lb stack of firewood, plus the extra weight of cheap Titan forks, to about 60". The curl function is just weak on many of these compacts. The 2R is much stronger than the 3E, and the 3R has the strongest one of the "little" compacts.
Your 2032R is lifting close to 1800#? That's quite nice. My 2520 maxes out closer to 1200#, I believe.

Rob
 
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Your 2032R is lifting close to 1800#? That's quite nice. My 2520 maxes out closer to 1200#, I believe.

Rob
I'm not sure. A completely full IBC cage with tightly packed wood weighs bout 1600lbs (someone weighed it in a youtube video). I don't tightly pack it or fill it all the way. So mine can be anywhere from 1300 to 1500, depending on how wet it is, how I stacked it, etc. Also, my titan forks weigh 300lbs. I don't know how much my bucket weighs...it could be close to that, so it might be a wash. I seriously doubt I am lifting 1800lbs.

And I can't lift it over about 60 inches, and can't curl it at all. So the loader is lifting well beyond its rated capacity, which is not unheard of. But this stuff is so heavy I move very gingerly with it, afraid to snap a loader arm.
 
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I'm not sure. A completely full IBC cage with tightly packed wood weighs bout 1600lbs (someone weighed it in a youtube video). I don't tightly pack it or fill it all the way. So mine can be anywhere from 1300 to 1500, depending on how wet it is, how I stacked it, etc. Also, my titan forks weigh 300lbs. I don't know how much my bucket weighs...it could be close to that, so it might be a wash. I seriously doubt I am lifting 1800lbs.

And I can't lift it over about 60 inches, and can't curl it at all. So the loader is lifting well beyond its rated capacity, which is not unheard of. But this stuff is so heavy I move very gingerly with it, afraid to snap a loader arm.
I think my pressure is a bit lower then yours. With my tote filled to the top rail it’s a 50/50 chance I can lift it off the ground. If I can, then I can usually only lift a foot. I have Artillian forks which are a tad lighter. I recently got Ken’s pressure gage and will test my pressure next time I have reason to run the tractor.


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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 
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I think my pressure is a bit lower then yours. With my tote filled to the top rail it’s a 50/50 chance I can lift it off the ground. If I can, then I can usually only lift a foot. I have Artillian forks which are a tad lighter. I recently got Ken’s pressure gage and will test my pressure next time I have reason to run the tractor.


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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
I don't think your pressure is lower than mine, at least not solely judging by what we're discussing. I don't fill it to the top rail.

015.JPG

This is the first photo I posted, and this one it's filled to the top. But...look at how the logs are just tossed in there. They aren't stacked, so there is a lot of empty space. When I loaded some more of these, I stacked them more neatly but did not go up as high, because it was heavier that way. If I stack the wood neatly, I only go a little above the access hole.
 
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I don't think your pressure is lower than mine, at least not solely judging by what we're discussing. I don't fill it to the top rail.

View attachment 687464

This is the first photo I posted, and this one it's filled to the top. But...look at how the logs are just tossed in there. They aren't stacked, so there is a lot of empty space. When I loaded some more of these, I stacked them more neatly but did not go up as high, because it was heavier that way. If I stack the wood neatly, I only go a little above the access hole.
Ah, yeah we typically stack them in 2 rows so they are about as packed as I can make them.


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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 
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