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As anyone who has used a tractor knows or will soon find out, you need to be able to take "stuff" with you to complete various projects.

I looked long and hard at the Big Rack Carry All unit as it looks to fit the bill for being the ideal carry all. I just can't bring myself to spending nearly $3,000 for the "fully equipped version" of the Original rack and I can't see the newest rack at the lower price point meeting my needs for carrying my winter snow equipment when plowing snow. Bottom line, the Big Rack Carry All unit is certainly a fine piece of equipment and appears to be very well contructed and engineered, the problem is I am just too cheap to spend that much for a carry all. Who knows, maybe I will change my mind. But right now, I am going into this season with the one below.

I looked at the King Cut brand 3 point Carry All and also the other manufacturer which several on GTT has selected. I like the 3 point mounts on the unit I selected as I want them to be "ahead" of the carry all unit itself so they are not an issue with the mounted surface or require cutting notches for the 3 point arms to attach, as I have seen done on some of the other brands. So, the mount method and the fact that a store nearby had the King Cut Carry All in stock for a retail price of $149 was my deciding factor for the "base" frame purchase.

I was able to get the unit for $129 with a sale the store had ongoing.

Mrs. Bear had to help me get this out of the rear of my SUV and once she saw it, she said "I sure hope you are painting that to match your tractor". Yep, honey already have the paint and planning on it being green.

Here I am taping off the labels from the original manufacturer. No need to get right to the edge of the label at this point.

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Trimming the label edge with a razor blade provides a very nice finished edge on the paint and it looks like it was always green when I finished.

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I mounted the I Match Bushings and taped them off. Here is the frame in the paint coating process. I put a total of 5 coats of paint on it since it's going to see heavy use. I actually painted the unit upside down first to make sure the bottom was well coated. Then I flipped it over and applied 5 coats of paint to the "topside".

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Since I am still getting used to having a FEL and the 3 point hitch on my new tractor, I was actually thinking about how I was going to support the carry all while I was building it. Then it occurred to me to just put it on the 3 point hitch.......:banghead:

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I decided to go with 5/4 deck boards as I wanted something which was treated and would not have to paint and I also wanted to be able to space the boards out just enough to permit water to run off and allow the carrier to dry off easily when it's put in the garage covered in snow after being used. I used carriage bolts and flat washers and Nylock nuts for securing the wood. I cut each board at 36" of length as I specifically did not want the carry all any wider than the tractor tire tracks and also low enough that I could see the platform myself from the seat.

I plan to mount a 3,500 lb winch on the tractor side of the carry all and the brackets are being fabricated at this time. The winch and the dedicated battery to run the winch are going to be on the "front side" of the carry all in enclosed battery boxes so that they are not in the weather while mounted on the carry all. While I show the wood parted in the center in this photo, I was measuring things for the winch mount and brackets at the time and the actual final assembly was not done with the gap in the boards shown. Instead, I am going to cut a hole in the front board for the winch cable to pass through.

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The last board to be mounted in the rear of the carry all frame required that the frame be drilled for the carriage bolts to secure the final piece of wood. The frame is pre-drilled in such a fashion that when using the 5/4 deck boards which are 6" wide, the actual hole location in each board is in a different place and not necessarily the center of the board. So, each board has to be marked and drilled separately or they won't fit properly. Note the Raspberry Pop Tart box on the ground to catch the drill shavings so they don't end up in the driveway.

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I used a large 1/2" flat washer to space the boards when installing them on the base as well as the front of the carry all frame to provide the consistent gap. The ends of the boards were all squared off before mounted so they lined up nicely with one another.

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To avoid a sharp corner which I would surely run into when not looking when the platform is elevated when mounted to the tractor, I cut the corner off just to make it a little less painful when I ultimately run into it, which has already happened.........

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The way the very top of the frame is built, it can not be drilled to mount the top piece because there is no access to the back of the frame for securing the nut on the back side of the bolt. The angle iron prevents any access to the back of the area where the hole would be drilled. That's OK because i want to be able to see the actual platform from the seat for backing purposes in tight quarters.

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Up Next, the actual mounting of items to the carry all........
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I looked at a wide range of mounting methods for the carry all. The traditional garage wall mount brackets for shovels, etc. would work but there is no way to secure the item in many of the mounting brackets. In the end, I went with these......They weren't cheap, but I like the quality and their diversity.

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Hopefully, I can get a hand from a moderator to help me re-orient these photos.

The mounts are made of rubber with a strap to secure the item being held in a variety of sizes. I got these from Amazon and I think the total cost for the rubber mounts was about $55

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Here they are holding my multi use power head for trimming, edging, tilling, etc. Note the wide range of adjustment in the straps holding the power head. It will likely end up being my most popular attachment point for the front of this carry all.

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Since my tractor had the ROPS removed for the cab installation, I also lost my ROPS mounted tool box. So, I decided to mount the tool box on the Carry all, but I didn't want to take up space on the main "wall" of the carry all, so I decided to mount the tool box on the front side of the carry all. I mounted the bracket which was used on the ROPS on the front of the carry all, tractor side. You can see the I Match in the photo.

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There is plenty of room to access the carry all and have the tool box handy.

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It also has plenty of room to open and it's easy to reach into from either side, while the drivers side is certainly closer to reach the tool box.

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Discussion Starter #4
The carry all has a wide range of needs for carrying items which are of different sizes and shapes. For the winter snow plowing, I need to be able to carry my little 2 cycle snow blower to avoid having to shovel snow., I also need a place to mount the snow melt carrier and spreader "tools", my favorite which is the plastic bowl. With the right wrist action when throwing, the bowl is an excellent way to spread the snow melt over a wide area and avoid wasting material.

I decided that turn buckles were the best way to secure the container and allow for it's easy removal. The carrier holds 50 lbs of snow melt perfectly. I do have a small tarp cover which I made to cover the container to keep the moisture off the snow melt while on the carry all.

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I also needed a way to mount the little 2 stroke snow blower. I mounted a range of "D" rings through the wood with grade 8 bolts and flat washers, top and bottom and secured them with Nylock nuts. The "D" rings are positioned to meet the tie down needs, not necessarily in any type of pattern which is why they are in various locations and facing different directions.

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I have storage on the left side of the platform for at least 200 lbs of Snow melt in bags and much more, which will add weight for traction and also keep the material handy should I need it. There are "D' rings to allow me to strap the bags on the carry all so they don't move around.

The snowblower has been a life saver as it eliminated the need to shovel steps, etc. and the snow blower is light enough to "carry it" with the chute handle and rear handle and use it step to step and in front of over head garage doors, etc. to give me room to drop the plow and back drag so the door openings are perfectly clean.:good2:

The little snow blower is reaching the end of it's life and parts are becoming an issue as it is at least 12 years old and it could be 15 or more years now, time flies. I run it on True Fuel and it's like being on Nitro Methane. I am not sure what I am going to replace it with. Perhaps even a small battery powered snow blower as the technology evolves and the products improve. Not having to "Shovel" and lift and throw in the bent over at the waist position is very important for the spinal fusion's happiness.......:laugh::lol:

Back Up Camera on it's Way
I have a wireless camera for the rear of the tractor and a 7" monitor which will be here tomorrow. I already have the power wire for the camera power and I am going to mount the camera on the top of the I Match, using the top hole for the center link for the mounting point. This way the two LED rear lights on the cab will illuminate the area and the camera will benefit from the lights and not be hampered by their brightness.

Safety Light Mounting being Fabricated along with Winch Mounts
Also, I have an adjustable mount for my revolving light being built in addition to my winch mounts. This will allow me to mount the light on the carry all and then once out of the garage door, raise the light to the height to clear the top of the cab from a visibility perspective and it will be seen from both the front and rear of the tractor. I also am trying to fabricate this light mount so that I can simply lower the carry all on the 3 point hitch to allow the safety light to clear the garage door and that way I won't have to get out of the cab when entering or leaving the garage stall. It appears it's going to work just right. Gizmo gave me this idea the other day on the Good Morning thread by talking about "Two Birds with One Stone". Thanks Gizmo. :good2:

More to come as the need arises for the carry all.......This is only the beginning.......

Thanks for looking.
 

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That is one first class setup that you have. Like I've said before, you sure have set the bar high for the rest of us! Thanks for the pictures.
 

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:bigthumb: looks good sulley bear-as always u never fail to impress us. very nice and well thought out.:good2:
 

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You need a nitrous oxide bottle mounted right next to the fire extinguisher.
Hooked up to the engine of course LOL You know to get at that hard snow bank at the end of the driveway.
 

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Nice Job SB. It took you some time to build that item.
 

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Nice work, Sulley Bear. It is sure to see a lot of action with the work you have planned for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You need a nitrous oxide bottle mounted right next to the fire extinguisher.
Hooked up to the engine of course LOL You know to get at that hard snow bank at the end of the driveway.
Believe me, that thought crossed my mind as I used to have very similar bottle retention straps in my race car trailer.

My shop was an official NOS Refill Station for several years and we went through a LOT of Nitrous. I don't recall what we charged per pound but I do know that for some reason, I always got the large refill tanks with the medical grade NOS which means it didn't have the odor chemicals added to it like the non medical grade NOS often has. My crew chief's father was our "Gas Supplier" for welders, torches, NOS and any other bottled gasses..........

We even put a NOS system on our team golf cart as after the official drag racing events, a bunch of us teams would drag race golf carts and mini bikes. We grenaded the motor in our Yamaha gas powered golf cart but we won the race.........:laugh::lol::lolol:I think our golf cart would go 47 mph........before the engine exploded.

That NOS is powerful stuff. I could NEVER do that to my tractor. I like it way too much, not to mention what it would do to the warranty..... Those days are long behind me now..........:good2:
 

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Nice carry all Sulley. Thanks for taking the time to post the pics and write up. Keep us posted on how it works for you and any updates or revisions/additions you make to it.
 
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Very cool project with "out of the box" engineering . I don't have much need for one of those , but what you did may inspire me to do something like that just because it's cool . Nice work . :bigbeer::bigbeer::bigbeer:
 

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Great looking project. Any issues connecting to the imatch especially the top hook? thanks. Greg
 
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I would like to design a carry all for watering flowers and plants that are far away from the house. I was thinking of getting a carry all, wood flooring it, a cheap 50 gallon barrel mounted, somehow, to the floor. Then, some sort of pump that would plug into my 12v socket that I could attach a short length of water hose to. I just don’t know enough about water pumps to know what I’m looking for. Wouldn’t need to be powerful, just enough to push out a 20 foot or so length of hose.
 

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Yank,

Check this out. It might safe you some time. From Mills Farm and Fleet. Comes with Boom and Wand.

Fimco 40 Gal. 3-Point Sprayer
Fimco

★★★★★ ★★★★★ 4.5 out of 5 stars. Read reviews.
4.5
(2)

Product #: 0000000063623
| SKU: 100199422
$329.89
$280.40 CLEARANCE
 
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Very nice carry all. It is always a first class job when you are done, Its easy to see why you are a success at life. Enjoy it and be safe. :good2::good2:
 

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Gebada, that does look pretty nice
 

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I would like to design a carry all for watering flowers and plants that are far away from the house. I was thinking of getting a carry all, wood flooring it, a cheap 50 gallon barrel mounted, somehow, to the floor. Then, some sort of pump that would plug into my 12v socket that I could attach a short length of water hose to. I just don’t know enough about water pumps to know what I’m looking for. Wouldn’t need to be powerful, just enough to push out a 20 foot or so length of hose.

I might suggest looking at your local boating supply store or online for a "12 volt submersible bilge pump"..

Add some discharge hose, maybe add a lighter plug to the wiring, plug it in, drop it in the barrel.... and water away! I think I've sen some pics on the forum of someone who did just that...

I don't know how long the wiring is that would come attached to the pump, but adding some more wire and making a good water/corrosion proof connection wouldn't be too hard.... I don't think?... ???
 

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Nice job sully. I did something similar

You can search for firemark carry all. Tried to post link but it didn’t work
 
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