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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tractors are a great example of the more I learn, the less I know.
I've read so much about 3 point hitches, and they're so simple, I thought I knew it all. Now when I go to use one for the first time, nothing makes sense.
The first thing I don't understand is how I have a cat I hitch on my 1025R, and my cat I ballast box pins are too small. Why would I need bushings when they are both cat I?
Next, the top pin from my ballast box is too big to fit through my top link (see picture). So everything is cat I, but two pins are too small and one pin is too big. That doesn't make sense to me. Can anyone help me understand?

There's a bigger "issue" that I need help understanding, but I'll put that in another post.

Thanks,
Dave.

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Yup, you’re right. It’s confusing.

Even though you have CAT 1 stuff, the quick hitch uses larger bushings to make the connection. It’s just how it’s done. I don’t know why, it is what it is. But there are several aftermarket QHs that use CAT 1 pin sizes. Personally, I just buy the bushing kits in bulk and have them on all my implements and don’t worry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yup, you’re right. It’s confusing.

Even though you have CAT 1 stuff, the quick hitch uses larger bushings to make the connection. It’s just how it’s done. I don’t know why, it is what it is. But there are several aftermarket QHs that use CAT 1 pin sizes. Personally, I just buy the bushing kits in bulk and have them on all my implements and don’t worry.
Thanks Jason, it's refreshing to know that I'm not completely out of my mind.
 

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You’re not the first to experience that, nor will you be the last. You can find many threads here with similar questions about quick hitches.

There has to be a reason for it, but I don’t know what it is.
Make sure to get the bushings with the big shoulders on them.
794048

But remember, these kits don’t usually include the top link bushing. It’s separate. Thankfully it’s cheap.
 

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Keep in mind that Cat 1 lift arm pin and a Cat 1 toplink pin are different sizes.

A Cat 1 lift arm pin is 7/8" in diameter.
A Cat 1 toplink pin is 3/4" in diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
You’re not the first to experience that, nor will you be the last. You can find many threads here with similar questions about quick hitches.

There has to be a reason for it, but I don’t know what it is.
Make sure to get the bushings with the big shoulders on them.
View attachment 794048
But remember, these kits don’t usually include the top link bushing. It’s separate. Thankfully it’s cheap.
I seem to have an issue even without a Quick hitch involved. Is the picture below normal? Instead of a bushings, can I change the pin on the ballast box to match the hitch?

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Keep in mind that Cat 1 lift arm pin and a Cat 1 toplink pin are different sizes.

A Cat 1 lift arm pin is 7/8" in diameter.
A Cat 1 toplink pin is 3/4" in diameter.
The 3/4" pin doesn't fit through my toplink. Do you think this is just an oversized pin?

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My toplink hole diameter seems to be 5/8", the 3/4" pin will not fit through it.

I seem to have an issue even without a Quick hitch involved. Is the picture below normal? Instead of a bushings, can I change the pin on the ballast box to match the hitch?

View attachment 794072
Yes, you can change the pins. If they are bolt on, it's pretty simple although an impact wrench might be needed. If they are welded on, you can still change them but personally in that case I would go for the bushings.

That almost looks like you have Cat O pins if your lift arm is a Cat 1.
 

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something is amiss here. i don’t see a quick hitch in the picture, so the QH bushing thing isn’t the issue.

I don’t think that the op has all cat1stuff, or the diameter of the lift pins would match up with the swivel eyes on the lift arms. a cat 0 to cat1 bushing may take care of the lift pins, or preferably get the correct size lift pins, and get the correct size top pin.

time for a tsc run.z
 

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You’re not the first to experience that, nor will you be the last. You can find many threads here with similar questions about quick hitches.

There has to be a reason for it, but I don’t know what it is.
Make sure to get the bushings with the big shoulders on them.
View attachment 794048
But remember, these kits don’t usually include the top link bushing. It’s separate. Thankfully it’s cheap.
I bought 2 pair of cat 1-2 and cat 2-3 bushings at TSC. I use these. Can transfer between implements. These pictured cannot be transferred without a lot of work on those roll pins.
 

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Tractors are a great example of the more I learn, the less I know.
I've read so much about 3 point hitches, and they're so simple, I thought I knew it all. Now when I go to use one for the first time, nothing makes sense.
The first thing I don't understand is how I have a cat I hitch on my 1025R, and my cat I ballast box pins are too small. Why would I need bushings when they are both cat I?
Next, the top pin from my ballast box is too big to fit through my top link (see picture). So everything is cat I, but two pins are too small and one pin is too big. That doesn't make sense to me. Can anyone help me understand?

There's a bigger "issue" that I need help understanding, but I'll put that in another post.

Thanks,
Dave.

View attachment 794034
You will get the hang of it very quick. The bushings are nothing more the spacers to fit things nice. What threw me off in the beginning was that the cat-1,2 and 3 sizes for both pins and holes were different for top and bottom. I struggled after a few trips to tractor supply because I assumed the standards were the same for both bottom and top links. I ended up just buying a couple of sets of everything including all different types of clips to hold pins and bushings in place. One puzzle I still haven’t solved yet is remembering where I purchased a set of CAT-1 to CAT-3 bushings. They are pretty cool. One bushing does 2 size difference. I might have got them from an old fashion shop and equipment dealer I went to in the beginning but don’t remember. They are not very common, but I’m surprised, they would come in handy quite a bit. I took a set of different sizes sets and tac welded them to achieve the same. I’ve also had to cut bushings so they would fit in implement clevise. Good luck and stock up.
 

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You will get the hang of it very quick. The bushings are nothing more the spacers to fit things nice. What threw me off in the beginning was that the cat-1,2 and 3 sizes for both pins and holes were different for top and bottom. I struggled after a few trips to tractor supply because I assumed the standards were the same for both bottom and top links. I ended up just buying a couple of sets of everything including all different types of clips to hold pins and bushings in place. One puzzle I still haven’t solved yet is remembering where I purchased a set of CAT-1 to CAT-3 bushings. They are pretty cool. One bushing does 2 size difference. I might have got them from an old fashion shop and equipment dealer I went to in the beginning but don’t remember. They are not very common, but I’m surprised, they would come in handy quite a bit. I took a set of different sizes sets and tac welded them to achieve the same. I’ve also had to cut bushings so they would fit in implement clevise. Good luck and stock up.
OP does NOT have a quick hitch as shown in his pictures. His bottom pins are Cat 0 ( needs changed to Cat 1) and his top pin just needs replaced with the appropriate size that fits his top link.
 

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You will get the hang of it very quick. The bushings are nothing more the spacers to fit things nice. What threw me off in the beginning was that the cat-1,2 and 3 sizes for both pins and holes were different for top and bottom. I struggled after a few trips to tractor supply because I assumed the standards were the same for both bottom and top links. I ended up just buying a couple of sets of everything including all different types of clips to hold pins and bushings in place. One puzzle I still haven’t solved yet is remembering where I purchased a set of CAT-1 to CAT-3 bushings. They are pretty cool. One bushing does 2 size difference. I might have got them from an old fashion shop and equipment dealer I went to in the beginning but don’t remember. They are not very common, but I’m surprised, they would come in handy quite a bit. I took a set of different sizes sets and tac welded them to achieve the same. I’ve also had to cut bushings so they would fit in implement clevise. Good luck and stock up.
Kenny has them - BoltonHooks.com Both the "mushroom" and clevis/captured styles of bushings.
Scroll about halfway down: John Deere iMatch™ Accessories - BoltOnHooks LLC
 

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I seem to have an issue even without a Quick hitch involved. Is the picture below normal? Instead of a bushings, can I change the pin on the ballast box to match the hitch?

View attachment 794072
You should be able to change the pin on the implement, some are just much easier than others. If its the standard bolt on pin it will be much easier than alternatives. I can't tell because we can't see the base and back of the pin's mounting location. If its welded on, it can still be changed, just with much more effort.

In the long run, it's much simpler and more convenient to have an easy to attach and de-tatch method for your 3ph implements. The Quik Hitch provides this simplicity. The only way I wouldn't suggest the Quick Hitch is if you only plan on having only one 3ph implement and don't plan on taking that implement on and off very often. Very few SCUT owners never own more than ONE 3ph implement.

3ph ballast boxes are one of the toughest to attach directly to the 3ph because when loaded, they are very heavy and hard to reposition. Without the QH, you have to get the implement pins aligned with the 3ph arm bushings, which can take some wrestling and climbing on and off the tractor numerous times to get everything aligned. That problem is eliminated with the use of a QH.......

Downsides to the QH, if you want to call them that, Include;

1.
Initial cost to purchase the Quick Hitch which depending upon brand / model, is going to be $100 to $350. Personally, I would and did purchase the Deere QH hitch and would do it again, despite it being the highest price.

2. The need to have a set of bushings for each implement, roughly $15 to $30, depending upon source and kit purchased.

3. Using the QH moves the implement back a couple of inches from the rear of the tractor, which extends the length of the machine slightly and extends the ballast of the 3ph back the width of the QH. (which is really insignificant in most cases).

Advantages include;

1.
Once the QH is installed and bushings added to your implements, no tools, no pins, just back up, hook up and go.

2. Able to attach and drop implements from the seat of the tractor*, which is extremely handy. (*Assuming no PTO shaft has to be connected).

3. The only adjustment necessary between implements is the adjustment of the top link length, which is very easy.

4. No more different sized pins, no changing adapters or bushings between implements.

So, yes, you can likely change the pins on the ballast box and make adjustments to each additional implement you add by changing its mounting pins, etc. OR you can purchase the QH, a set of bushings for each 3ph implement and be done with the screwing around..........
 
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is that shiny red implement a ballast box? can you step back a bit and take a photo of it?

you mentioned replacing the lift pins with larger pins. that might require that you drill out the holes that they are bolted into. i think that lift pins are the same size on both ends, so if you upsize the pin, you will also have to upsize the hole. but then, im not sure exactly what you are working with.

i would suggest getting what you have configured and working correctly before tossing a quick hitch into the mix. what implements do you have? if you are just getting started, a QH may not be of much benefit yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
something is amiss here. i don’t see a quick hitch in the picture, so the QH bushing thing isn’t the issue.

I don’t think that the op has all cat1stuff, or the diameter of the lift pins would match up with the swivel eyes on the lift arms. a cat 0 to cat1 bushing may take care of the lift pins, or preferably get the correct size lift pins, and get the correct size top pin.

time for a tsc run.z
I think you are exactly right; I'll post pictures below showing that you summed up my issues.
 
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