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Discussion Starter #1
I just rebuilt (beefed up) my sway chains on my hitch. That got me to thinking (I know, Google it.) How tight, or loose should the chains be?
Currently (thinking anti-sway bar and towing travel trailers) I have the chains set to about 1/2" to 3/4" inch of side-to-side.
I figured the less the implement moves, the less stress there is everywhere else on the frame as a whole.

Class is in. I need educated. :kidw_truck_smiley:

Thanks
 

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It probably depends on whether or not you are using a QuckHitch (like the iMatch). I have my iMatch on all the time and tightened up so that I only have about 1/2: of sway. If I wasn't using the iMatch there might be times when I'd want a little more slop in the system to make it easier to connect implements.

When I first got my machine it had about 1.5" of slop in the sway setup and I found it unnerving when the ballast box would shift from side to side and the whole machine would lurch with it. I kept thinking I was running over something.
 

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It probably depends on whether or not you are using a QuckHitch (like the iMatch). I have my iMatch on all the time and tightened up so that I only have about 1/2: of sway. If I wasn't using the iMatch there might be times when I'd want a little more slop in the system to make it easier to connect implements.

When I first got my machine it had about 1.5" of slop in the sway setup and I found it unnerving when the ballast box would shift from side to side and the whole machine would lurch with it. I kept thinking I was running over something.
What he said
 

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For most implements you want the chains as tight as you can get them without causing any binding in the hitch when it raises and lowers. The last thing you want is a heavy implement floppy side to side and slamming the chains. This usually means that when changing implements you have to first loosen the chains, swap implements and then re-tighten as necessary.

Just another reason why a Quick Hitch is so convenient as you never have to readjust your sway chains.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It probably depends on whether or not you are using a QuckHitch (like the iMatch). I have my iMatch on all the time and tightened up so that I only have about 1/2: of sway. If I wasn't using the iMatch there might be times when I'd want a little more slop in the system to make it easier to connect implements.

When I first got my machine it had about 1.5" of slop in the sway setup and I found it unnerving when the ballast box would shift from side to side and the whole machine would lurch with it. I kept thinking I was running over something.
I do have the iMatch. I never thought about factoring this into the equation. Currently (as mentioned in my OP) I have the chains about 1/2"-3/4" as you suggest. To me it just made the most sense.
As for not having the iMatch in place with odd implements, mental note taken.

Thank You, JimR :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For most implements you want the chains as tight as you can get them without causing any binding in the hitch when it raises and lowers. The last thing you want is a heavy implement floppy side to side and slamming the chains. This usually means that when changing implements you have to first loosen the chains, swap implements and then re-tighten as necessary.

Just another reason why a Quick Hitch is so convenient as you never have to readjust your sway chains.
Some say, ignorance is bliss. I won't claim the 5th, because honestly, I didn't have the sense enough to ask. And this was prior to having the iMatch.
I had piles of rock to move. Once I found a LS rake I hooked that hummer up and went to town. I was backing up to the piles, grabbing rock..using the rake. The tractor was canted. When I dropped the tines into the pile, it grabbed a large amount of materials. It was going well...dragging to where I needed. Then I must have gotten cocky. Grabbed to much. That cant I mentioned, when I grabbed a big fistfull in the tines, it snapped the loop that was welded to the arm. This is why I rebuilt the chains. LOL, OOPS.

Thanks for the input. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Why would one want slack in the chains?
 

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You really have to read the operators manuals for each implement. Unfortunately they all require different slack or tightness in the chains, for instance my rotary cutter requires at least a 1/2 inch slack, but my box blade and tiller need to tight.
 

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That defeats the purpose of an iMatch....nobody is doing that.:laugh:
 

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Slight slack

You really have to read the operators manuals for each implement. Unfortunately they all require different slack or tightness in the chains, for instance my rotary cutter requires at least a 1/2 inch slack, but my box blade and tiller need to tight.
I prefer a slight bit of slack in the chains, not much but just enough to allow an implement to slide over slightly if it bumps something hard. For example, if I'm running the bushhog and want to get close to a tree stump but miss by a half inch, I'd rather the mower be able to slightly move and slide by the stump than be absolutely tight and break a chain or worse.

Too much slack isn't good as others have stated. Having a heavy implement hit the end of the chain after a long sway is hard on everything, including me. It doesn't take much slack to allow an implement to move over an inch or two when needed.

Treefarmer
 

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You really have to read the operators manuals for each implement. Unfortunately they all require different slack or tightness in the chains, for instance my rotary cutter requires at least a 1/2 inch slack, but my box blade and tiller need to tight.
You are absolutely correct! In fact, the operator's manual for the tractor makes the very same statement in the 3PH operation section. Some implements want a wee bit of slack.

The rub is that things like a ballast box don't come with a manual. :)
 

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The rub is that things like a ballast box don't come with a manual. :)
In my case, the rub is the draft links on the rear tires! (Sorry, this looked like a good place to jump in.)

I have been looking into this. Seems it is not too uncommon for the early (Gen I ?) 2032R like I have. I have three 3-pt attachments and no manuals for any. I'll list them with the spacing on the outer shoulders of the pins. The measurements are Stanley tape measure accurate. It seems the "standard" is exceeded only by its absence.

JD ballast box 24.25"
A&E Eagle ditcher blade 25.25"
King Kutter landscape rake 27.125"

Also, a friends KK blade with the same looking 3-pt attachment as my rake looks to be about 26.5"

By keeping the sway links as tight as possible the blade barely worked without rubbing on the tires. No way to adjust the landscape rake without it rubbing. I took the gas axe to it and redid the 3-pt so now it turned out to be about 24-15/16". It may get its maiden voyage today to test my "farm code" welding skills.

I since came up with another idea to gain an inch or two. On the 2032R, the sway links pull the draft links outwards. I found a piece of 1" schedule 80 pipe in my stack of stuff. I cut a couple of pieces off to be spacers between the draft links and lynch pins. Will also try this out. Can report back if there's any interest.
 

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The stabilizers always attach to a point on the same plane as the tractor mount for the lift arms. But, the attachment point for the stabilizers is not at the same place as the lift arm ball mount- it will be to the inside, or outside, of the lift arm mounting point, and at an angle. Because of this, and depending on where the stabilizer attaches in relation to the lift arm mount (amount of angle), the stabilizer can travel a slightly different arc than the lift arm. Therefore, it is possible- again, it may depend on where the stabilizer mounts, and the angle from the lift arm- for the stabilizer to tighten up as the arms are raised. I witnessed this on my Kubota B7100- if the stabilizers were snugged but not tight when the implement was down, they would be banjo tight when the implement was raised.
I've built a lot of stabilizers for customers who have stretched and broken their turnbuckles.
I believe that the stabilizers, for this reason, should not be banjo tight. Their intention is to keep the implement from swaying, not in an absolute fixed position. I keep my own slighty loose, allowing about a half inch of movement from side to side. This is more than sufficient to keep the implement from swaying, and able to direct it when backing up.
 

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You are absolutely correct! In fact, the operator's manual for the tractor makes the very same statement in the 3PH operation section. Some implements want a wee bit of slack.

The rub is that things like a ballast box don't come with a manual. :)
I would think you would want the chains tight while using the ballast box, I don't think you would want that moving around much.
 

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I run my sways full tight with the quick hitch and ballast box, but it drives me nuts when your driving on a side hill and the box shifts in the quick hitch and make a loud squeak or clunk/bang.

have thought about making some shims for the quick hitch pins to take up the gap.
 

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have thought about making some shims for the quick hitch pins to take up the gap.
I posted about this in post 12. I tried out the landscape rake with the 3-pt modifications. I also shimmed like you said. You can see the spacer just inside the linch pin. Before the modifications, there was less than zero clearance between the draft links and tires. Now there is about 1-1/4" on each side. There was probably other ways to accomplish this, but I'm always looking for an excuse to weld.

IMG_0608-1024x1024.JPG
 
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