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I’m starting to look for a log splitter. I have the dual rear SCVs being installed on my 2038r currently. I’d like a hydraulic powered splitter that is also JD quick hitch compatible. That’s the real hard thing to find. So many splitters out there it’s hard to get that type of info. TBH I’m not sure what tonnage splitter is should be looking for. It’s just for what I can burn in my wood stove in central VA so it’s not like I seriously need a lot of heat from it. Most trees I’d be splitting are in the 16-22” diameter range.


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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 
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I use a regular hydraulic splitter with a 5-8 HP Engine I would hate to run the tractor engine just to split wood? Splitters are so cheap now. Had mine over 15+ years and is a 20 ton model and will spit our 3-5 cord a year of fir and tamarack we put up. We heat only with wood 6 months of the year mostly. This way you leave the splitter being used by the stack while you go get more fire wood. Then while it is being split throw it in the bucket to take it where you stack the wood. This way your tractor is not tied up to a splitter and cost wise may be cheaper in the end. Just my thought but a splitter run off the tractor would be nice. I want a 35KW generator to run off mine sometime. If I get one I will set up a 400 amp transfer switch and do it right. I do know my tractor gets good 1/2-3/4 GPH dealing with snow. Not sure I want my tractor floored for hours/days on end to get 540 PTO RPMs??
 

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I agree I have a 24 ton with a 8 horse Honda Motor that I have had since 94. I know we have continuous flow switch on our 2038 but I would hate to run my tractor at PYO speed that amount of time. You can get a nice stand alone splitter pretty reasonable
 

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I’m starting to look for a log splitter. I have the dual rear SCVs being installed on my 2038r currently. I’d like a hydraulic powered splitter that is also JD quick hitch compatible. That’s the real hard thing to find. So many splitters out there it’s hard to get that type of info. TBH I’m not sure what tonnage splitter is should be looking for. It’s just for what I can burn in my wood stove in central VA so it’s not like I seriously need a lot of heat from it. Most trees I’d be splitting are in the 16-22” diameter range.


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I have to agree with the rest of them on here. I split wood for our heating and would hate to not have my tractor while splitting. I use the tractor to carry the wood to the staging area. 20 - 25 ton splitters can be found on CL for around $500 - $600. We bought our for $500, it is a 24 ton and has spit everything I have put in it. When I am done with it, I just run the engine until it runs out of fuel or split until it runs out of fuel before storing it as it may set for a few months before using it. Especially in the summer.
 

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I have a Powerhorse log splitter and love it, I do not split wood for house heating, just the fireplace. Works great, just fits my quick hitch, and I added length to the tongue of my kart, so I can split wood and put in kart which is below and behind splitter.
Cut up to 20” round oak no problem. If I had to cut several cords a year, might have gone to a separate splitter as others have said.

I have had tractor for 9 years, with all duty’s has 277 hrs on it.
 

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You have to take into consideration the hydraulic flow rate of your tractor. From what I have read over the years a splitter run from these small tractor hydraulics is painfully slow.

Look at the flow rate of a dedicated splitter and compare that to the available flow of your rear SCV.

Back in the day when I did all my own firewood I got into a rythym - a slow splitter would not have worked.
 

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I agree with the majority of replies. Get a stand alone splitter if you are going to be splitting more than just campfire wood. We heat the house and shop with wood supplemented by lp. With large rounds I can use the tractor to lift them on to the splitter instead of putting the splitter in the vertical position. Watch CL. We bought a 34 ton with a 10 hp honda engine about six years ago for $900 off CL. The size you need depends on what wood you will be splitting. I'm sure a 20 ton would be fine for pine, poplar and other soft woods. For oak, elm, walnut, and locust like we split I wouldn't go any less than 27 ton.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Good to know on the tonnage. I totally get the speed thing and why a stand alone makes more sense. But I also really don’t want another engine to maintain. Also a 3-point hutch splitter is also smaller so storage in the limited garage space is easier. I have two wood piles side by side just behind my shed. One for split and one to split. So I don’t have to move lumber just before or during splitting. I have a gravel area right up to both piles where I’ll split. I just measured the logs I have in the pile. Largest is 19” most are ~14”. Most of it is oak and beech. I don’t need that much wood. I split everything this last winter by hand with a maul so I’m not that worried about the splitter speed.


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It would be painfully Sloooow. Plus you would want to haul the wood to the splitter location with something. Like a tractor:dunno:. Don't feel left out. I too thought of this until I researched and stumbled upon the flow rate issue. You could probably burn it faster than you could split it using the tractor hydraulics. But if like you said, speed is not a priority, then have at it. I'd like to see the setup anyway.:bigthumb:
 

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Good to know on the tonnage. I totally get the speed thing and why a stand alone makes more sense. But I also really don’t want another engine to maintain. Also a 3-point hutch splitter is also smaller so storage in the limited garage space is easier. I have two wood piles side by side just behind my shed. One for split and one to split. So I don’t have to move lumber just before or during splitting. I have a gravel area right up to both piles where I’ll split. I just measured the logs I have in the pile. Largest is 19” most are ~14”. Most of it is oak and beech. I don’t need that much wood. I split everything this last winter by hand with a maul so I’m not that worried about the splitter speed.
I hear/see that comment a lot on threads like this when people are talking about getting a tractor mounted splitter or a generator. I think you really have to think about how much "maintenance" a single cylinder gasoline engine really takes. Not much in my opinion. Keep the gas tank clean, run the gas out of it when you're not going to use it for quite a while and change the oil every so often. How long does it take to change the oil on an engine like that? Again, not much. It's certainly a lot cheaper/quicker/easier to change the oil on a stand alone splitter than it is to change the oil and hydraulic fluid on the tractor.


I will admit that I have a PTO powered wood chipper and not a stand alone one. But.... a comparable stand alone chipper would have cost me probably triple what I paid for the PTO mounted chipper. Unlike a splitter or a generator, it takes a lot more to power a wood chipper capable of handling a 9" log. Hence, the tractor power.


I might agree to a point on your storage issue though. But, the 3 point mounted splitters that I've seen don't look like they'd be too easy to move around if you needed to shuffle something in your barn/shed/storage area. A stand alone splitter can be moved by a single guy.

Good luck on your decision. I'm sure that whatever you decide, it will be right for YOU!! :good2:
 
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Like said.... The tractor size is usually a no issue, but gallons per minute available to the splitter are important.
If the gpm is not available from your tractor, the splitter will run, but even at full throttle it will run so slow you won't like it.

With that in mind some companies make a 3pt splitter that is powered by a pump on the rear PTO. Some make them where the pump is mounted to the splitter frame and pump is driven by a PTO shaft.

I've seen where a tractor splitter has been converted to the PTO driven pump with a oil tank and filter added. If you are handy with assembling parts and modifying implements, you might save some money with one configuration over the other.

With a tractor powered splitter, work backwards from the GPM required by the splitter, to the size PTO pump required to produce the flow rate needed, to the hp required to run that pump. If your tractor has the required PTO hp. Go for it.
 
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Good to know on the tonnage. I totally get the speed thing and why a stand alone makes more sense. But I also really don’t want another engine to maintain. Also a 3-point hutch splitter is also smaller so storage in the limited garage space is easier. I have two wood piles side by side just behind my shed. One for split and one to split. So I don’t have to move lumber just before or during splitting. I have a gravel area right up to both piles where I’ll split. I just measured the logs I have in the pile. Largest is 19” most are ~14”. Most of it is oak and beech. I don’t need that much wood. I split everything this last winter by hand with a maul so I’m not that worried about the splitter speed.


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I agree on not having another engine. That is why I went with a Honda engine on my splitter. Very low maintenance, unlike some of the other junk I own.

Here is a website with several 3 point splitters to look at: https://www.logsplittersdirect.com/quick_search.php?style=5003&grade=0&watts=0&brand=0

I would get something that is at least a 20 ton or better.
 

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My splitter is 12 ton and has no issues with 16” long 16” diameter oak logs, also as for speed my splitter cuts both ways and takes up to 18” logs, fast enough for me but again I am not about production speed. ( and safer give me time to keep hands out of the way;) )I think you tractor has I higher flow rate than my 2305 so it would be faster than mine. .02$
 

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I agree on not having another engine. That is why I went with a Honda engine on my splitter. Very low maintenance, unlike some of the other junk I own.

Here is a website with several 3 point splitters to look at: https://www.logsplittersdirect.com/quick_search.php?style=5003&grade=0&watts=0&brand=0

I would get something that is at least a 20 ton or better.
If you do buy a stand alone splitter get one with a Honda engine. I change the oil in ours once a year. Run it out of gas if it won't be used for awhile. Put fresh gas in for the next use and it starts Everytime, no problem. You can't beat those Honda small engines.
 

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A standalone splitter will work much better.

I bought a cheap Craftsman log splitter about 20 years ago. It has a 5 HP B&S engine on it. Never had a single issue and we split about 5-8 cords a year with it.

My parents have a 3pt hydraulic splitter that they run off of their 120 HP NH tractor. The rear remotes on that machine are putting out nearly 18 GPM. My splitter is at least 2X as fast and I'm using a fraction of the fuel.
 

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what are you going to buy? made a decision yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
what are you going to buy? made a decision yet?
As much as I wanted a 3-point splitter I think I’m going to get a stand alone. Thinking I’ll get it next week. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200628784_200628784 Looking at this because it’s available locally, has a Honda motor, and seems nice overall.

My reasons against the 3-point were I’d have to buy/make hoses as they don’t come with those. Also many of the ones I otherwise liked don’t have a stand or enough frame below them to make removing from the hitch possible without blocks or a cart or modifications. The stand alone is ready to go, just assemble and add oils.

It’s snowing again and the stove is on it’s last load of wood and what’s left is to hard for me to split by hand since I’m a weak desk jockey.


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That is a great looking splitter. should last a lifetme
 
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Agreed nice choice.......:bigthumb:
 
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