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I can get a good deal from a old farmer on a 72" King Kutter finish mower. My question is would that be to mush for my 1025r, it like new for $400. would I be ok with it. I have 1 1/2 acres all flat and then the old guy across the road he has about 2 maybe 2 1/2 all flat also. Would you buy it for a 1025r Thanks
 

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Is it cat 1 limited or cat 1 on the 3pt.There's a difference in the pin height.You may also have to adjust the pto shaft.You would have to check what the pto of the mower is rated for (rpm and hp)
 
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Official "Groovie" Dude
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If the price was right, go for it. Would he be willing to hold it until you could mow once with it to test it out on the tractor?

PTO HP is probably at the lower end on the spec sheets for the mower. I'm thinking if you mow when it's not too tall or wet it should do fine. If you run into a tough patch you just slow down.

One thing to watch would be the weight when lifted. Could make your front end light.
 

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I was going to get a 72 inch RFM for my 1025R, but I sold it and upgraded to a 4066R before I got that far. As long as you mow as often as you are supposed to, meaning that you don't let the grass get too tall, I don't see a problem. I ran a 60 inch brush hog on it through much taller stuff, so I feel that the 72 inch RFM would work OK, unless you were trying to cut stuff 3 ft tall. Even then, you could just take less than a full swath, if necessary.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I can get a good deal from a old farmer on a 72" King Kutter finish mower. My question is would that be to mush for my 1025r, it like new for $400. would I be ok with it. I have 1 1/2 acres all flat and then the old guy across the road he has about 2 maybe 2 1/2 all flat also. Would you buy it for a 1025r Thanks
I keep my grass at 3 inches tall and the the older guy is like a carpet. He had a stroke but he use to use his cub and cut near the house 2 - 3 times a day drove us nuts nice people but fussy. He know I will do it once a week when I will do it, winter up in the north/ Got a whol3 7 hrs doing both of the drives, He to me if he was better he would one in his barn said it looks like fun it is it is.
 
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I've used a rear mount 72" Woods for over 20 years and I think it's too much for the 1 series especially if you have hills. Before getting my 3039 I had a 29hp Kubota and while the engine would handle it in normal grass cutting, the front end was very light when you raise it and turn or anytime it was raised for that matter. A 6' finish mower is quite heavy.
 
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I've used a rear mount 72" Woods for over 20 years and I think it's too much for the 1 series especially if you have hills. Before getting my 3039 I had a 29hp Kubota and while the engine would handle it in normal grass cutting, the front end was very light when you raise it and turn or anytime it was raised for that matter. A 6' finish mower is quite heavy.
Yep. Had the same problem when i had my 1025R. Leaving the loader on solved the problem.

Sent from my Samsung Note using Tapatalk
 

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https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200328411_200328411

I'm thinking a 72" is probably a bit much for a 1 series but I've been wrong before.
But $400 for a $2000 mower is a steal. Now I was told my dealer that I wouldn't be able to run a rotary cutter with my 1023 and I have never lacked for HP or had any problems with it.
 
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If the price was right, go for it. Would he be willing to hold it until you could mow once with it to test it out on the tractor?

PTO HP is probably at the lower end on the spec sheets for the mower. I'm thinking if you mow when it's not too tall or wet it should do fine. If you run into a tough patch you just slow down.

One thing to watch would be the weight when lifted.
Could make your front end light.
That might actually be the stopper, Northern Tool site lists the 72" finish mower at 720 lbs.
 

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Everyone talking about hosepower -but what about weight?

A 72” mower behind a little 1-series is a terrible accident waiting to happen. On any kind of hill that mower will drag that tractor on a ride you will never forget.

If you want to run a 72” mower get a bigger tractor.
 

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I used a 72" rfm on a Kubota B2400 at times when I didn't want to deal with dragging the belly mower under the tractor. Yes it was heavy and yes it made the front of tractor light however I really didn't care. It's not like I was mowing with the mower in the raised position. For the most part the mower was just riding on its wheels with the tractor pulling it. The tractor handled the mower just fine however I wasn't cutting 8"+ grass with it. If I remember correctly the 2400 had 24 engine and around 20 pto horsepower so it's comparable to the 1 series.
 

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Too big, I am running a KK 60" on a 2038R and wouldn't want anything bigger unless I was cutting 100% flat fields.
 

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I can get a good deal from a old farmer on a 72" King Kutter finish mower. My question is would that be to mush for my 1025r, it like new for $400. would I be ok with it. I have 1 1/2 acres all flat and then the old guy across the road he has about 2 maybe 2 1/2 all flat also. Would you buy it for a 1025r Thanks
YES!!!

You're just dragging it behind you. If you need to lift it, put some weights on the front. Don't think it's harder to spin the blades as it is turning a bunch of tines on a 60" tiller 8" in the ground. He said it's flat land. My tiller probably weights as much as that mower. Yes it lifts the front end but I have weights to put on the front to take care of that. And do...
 

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Everybody makes valid points. For $400 bucks, in like new condition.....I'd buy it and try it. If it's too much, you could always sell it, and probably for more than $400. Deere used to rate the 1 series for being able to run a 72" RFM, not sure if they still do. I have always wanted to try it. Front weight would be a must.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That might actually be the stopper, Northern Tool site lists the 72" finish mower at 720 lbs.
the King Kutter is model RFM 72 YK which weighs 590 pounds so I'm still good the 3 pt can raise 671lb if I remember right
 

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Everybody makes valid points. For $400 bucks, in like new condition.....I'd buy it and try it. If it's too much, you could always sell it, and probably for more than $400. Deere used to rate the 1 series for being able to run a 72" RFM, not sure if they still do. I have always wanted to try it. Front weight would be a must.

Agree with CP. Buy it, put it on craigslist and sell it, then buy a new 5' mower.
 

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Often things which "appear" to be like new have been touched up and "spit polished" to appear "like new" and you want to make sure it really is the deal it appears to be. Things to double check closely before you buy to make sure it's the deal it appears to be include;

1. Check the underside of the mower deck carefully to make sure it's clean and not all rusty to the point of possible trouble. A mower which is never cleaned underneath can be trouble over the years. The larger the mower, the less likely it is cleaned under neath simply due to the weight of lifting it.

2. Check the spindles to make sure they are tight and look like they have been greased. If possible, put a grease gun on them to make sure they take grease.

3. Check the belt on the deck as a good mower belt can approach $80 to $100 depending upon size, etc. If it's got the original belt, you might plan on getting one as a spare so you have it.

4. Make sure the PTO shaft length will work. If you have to buy a new PTO shaft, the deal starts to lose some appeal.

5. Make sure the blades can be sharpened and aren't too worn. A set of GOOD, HIGH QUALITY blades will cost $50 or more.

6. Make sure the anti scalp wheels and their spindles aren't rusted in place. Those designed to rotate on a spindle should when you are turning the tractor or you could be tearing up your neighbors nice lawn trying to help him and that wouldn't be good.

7. Make sure the hitch pin placement height on the mower will allow the 1 series 3 point to lift it up. Measure the pin height on the mower when on the ground and then check it against the low and high arm positions on your tractor. The limited lift height on the 1 series could be an issue in "picking up" the mower. Check before buying or you might need pallet forks to move it.

8. Make sure the gearbox doesn't appear to have leaked any oil. If possible, I would check the fluid level in the gear box. Some have a allen headed plug and can be tough to remove. Also, some of the gear box plugs are tapered and I have had to use 3 foot pipe's on a long handled wratchet to break the plugs loose. The gear box is critical because if it's bad, the deal is a bad one. The gear boxes can easily be $600 or more to replace. Bad gear boxes are rare but if they are run out of oil or hit a major object when mowing, it's very likely trouble.

If all looks good after close inspection, Buy it, try it safely with either your Front End Loader on or with front suitcase weights for counter balance on the tractor. If the 72" Woods is too large, sell it this spring at a profit to get what you want / need. Buy Low and Sell Higher.

Woods makes a very good product and taken care of, they will last forever. Plus Woods is a strong company and has good parts availability, even for older equipment they built. In the 3 point mower world, Woods is one of the better manufacturers.

On flat ground with the proper counter balance on the front, I would try this mower on my 1 series. After all, most finish mowers have guide / anti scalping wheels and that takes a lot of the weight off the hitch when running the mower. But I wouldn't plan on mowing any ditches or uneven terrain.
 

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the King Kutter is model RFM 72 YK which weighs 590 pounds so I'm still good the 3 pt can raise 671lb if I remember right
That rating of 671# is at the pins or holes in the arms. A mower like that sticks WAY out behind the arm pins.
 

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That rating of 671# is at the pins or holes in the arms. A mower like that sticks WAY out behind the arm pins.
This is completely true and a very valid point. It was for this very reason my Kubota got light in the front when raising the mower but weights solved the problem. For what it's worth though, when I was using the mower on the Kubota I rarely raised it with the 3 point. I would raise it a few inches off the ground to sit on blocks when taking it off the tractor (don't like it being stored so close to the ground) and I would raise it to get it off the blocks when I wanted to use it. Other than that the mower just tagged along behind the tractor with all its weight riding on its wheels. If I had a 1 series I really wouldn't hesitate to use the mower for lawn cutting purposes within my own property. If you have plans of loading the mower/tractor onto trailers to go mow elsewhere or planning to run up and down the roads with the mower raised, I would probably consider one smaller. With the mower riding along behind the tractor I really don't think it weighs enough to be throwing the tractor around or anything like that. I don't know what a 1 series weighs but surely it outweighs the mower by several lbs.
 

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This is completely true and a very valid point. It was for this very reason my Kubota got light in the front when raising the mower but weights solved the problem. For what it's worth though, when I was using the mower on the Kubota I rarely raised it with the 3 point. I would raise it a few inches off the ground to sit on blocks when taking it off the tractor (don't like it being stored so close to the ground) and I would raise it to get it off the blocks when I wanted to use it. Other than that the mower just tagged along behind the tractor with all its weight riding on its wheels. If I had a 1 series I really wouldn't hesitate to use the mower for lawn cutting purposes within my own property. If you have plans of loading the mower/tractor onto trailers to go mow elsewhere or planning to run up and down the roads with the mower raised, I would probably consider one smaller. With the mower riding along behind the tractor I really don't think it weighs enough to be throwing the tractor around or anything like that. I don't know what a 1 series weighs but surely it outweighs the mower by several lbs.
I understand that a finish mower would rearely be lifted. But having a property with plenty of hills, I can envision that mower - even when trailing behind on its wheels - pulling a little tractor like that sideways on a side hill and taking it for a ride.

I would think twice about pulling a 72” finish mower behind my 2520 with loaded tires and a full rack of weights on the front.
 
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