Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 2007 3320 seems to have had a rough life before I bought it. I've been gradually fixing and replacing parts (and adding attachments of course!) since I got it. The tractor itself is now in pretty nice condition and everything seems to be working well. The 300CX loader, although it works very well, could use some improvements. Several of the pin joints are looser than I would like, and I want to tighten them up. However, buying new parts just to tighten up the pin joints seems like an expensive, and perhaps not necessary, project. I think that I'd like to disassemble these joints, bore out the worn parts, and add sleeves to take up the 'slop'. I thought that the first step should be to buy a service manual for the 300CX loader, hoping that it would include some details about the diameters of the pins, etc. However, I've not been able to find any service literature for the 300CX. Has anyone seen any service literature for this loader? Also, has anyone attempted to do what I'm suggesting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,933 Posts
My 2007 3320 seems to have had a rough life before I bought it. I've been gradually fixing and replacing parts (and adding attachments of course!) since I got it. The tractor itself is now in pretty nice condition and everything seems to be working well. The 300CX loader, although it works very well, could use some improvements. Several of the pin joints are looser than I would like, and I want to tighten them up. However, buying new parts just to tighten up the pin joints seems like an expensive, and perhaps not necessary, project. I think that I'd like to disassemble these joints, bore out the worn parts, and add sleeves to take up the 'slop'. I thought that the first step should be to buy a service manual for the 300CX loader, hoping that it would include some details about the diameters of the pins, etc. However, I've not been able to find any service literature for the 300CX. Has anyone seen any service literature for this loader? Also, has anyone attempted to do what I'm suggesting?
I have never seen service literature for a 300x/cx loader but surely it exists? I have never done anything your suggesting to a compact tractor loader. We certainly have done exactly what your suggesting to some of the equipment we relied on to farm with however. Considering the cost of new equipment and the fact of what we had was in overall decent shape, this was worth every bit of the time and effort it took.

I'm extremely curious as to what others suggest to you, personally... I think this is an awesome idea and would like to gain some knowledge here for possible future needs.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,966 Posts
I've never seen service manuals on any of the CUT loaders. Deere only lists Operator's Manuals and Parts Manuals for the 300CX on their publications site. No service manual available.

I don't know of anyone that's done it on a CUT loader but there are companies that specialize in boring, sleeving and replacing the pins on heavy equipment. There is a company quasi-local to me that advertises doing this on-site for construction equipment. If they can do it for a Deere 310SG backhoe, they can do it for a CUT.

I have no idea what that sort of thing costs to have done but I'm sure it's less than buying the equipment needed to do it properly would be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I've seen those types of services advertised, and I agree that it wouldn't make sense to buy the machining equipment. But if your next door neighbor has the machining equipment.....:good2:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,966 Posts
Heh. If your neighbor has the equipment, let him get at it! Buy him a case of beer (or two!) for his troubles.

Just make sure the work is done before you start cracking open the beers! :bigbeer:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,949 Posts
I think I'd start by removing the pins and measuring them with a micrometer to determine the extent of the wear. It might be a little more difficult to measure the pin bores. Replacing the pins and keeping them lubricated to reduce most of the slop might be the easiest and most economical way to proceed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I suppose that I'll end up having to replace some of the pins, if not all of them. But they are EXPENSIVE. And there are a lot of them. There's really no urgency to get this done, so that's partly why I thought I could take it a step at a time. And I agree that the first step is to measure the pins and the bores. That's why I was looking for a service manual: to get the pin and bore diameters. But that's not looking like it's going to happen.
I'm hoping that the pins are hardened and that the bores are the softer material.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,966 Posts
The primary pins (6 of them) used on the 300CX are Deere p/n AW33494. You can find the specs for them here.

The bushings are Deere p/n W49646. Specs for them can be found here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
JimR,
Thanks for that information. I went back out and looked at the tractor. Those pins and bushings seem to be fairly tight. The ones that I'm concerned about are the joints related to the bucket cylinders. It seems that there is around 0.020 - 0.030" movement at each joint. That was strictly a guess because I didn't put the dial indicator on them. Down where the cylinders attach to the links, there is some looseness between the pin and the cylinder as well as between the pin and the links. I also noticed that the Quick Attach mounting points are somewhat loose as well. Adding all these up makes it noticeable to me.
I've never had a bit of a problem with function; it's just not as tight as I'd like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
437 Posts
The ones that I'm concerned about are the joints related to the bucket cylinders. It seems that there is around 0.020 - 0.030" movement at each joint. That was strictly a guess because I didn't put the dial indicator on them. Down where the cylinders attach to the links, there is some looseness between the pin and the cylinder as well as between the pin and the links. I also noticed that the Quick Attach mounting points are somewhat loose as well. Adding all these up makes it noticeable to me.
I've never had a bit of a problem with function; it's just not as tight as I'd like.
Neb, I think you're good. I went out and stuck a dial indicator on at the cylinder end. Yea, there's quite a bit of slop in all of that assembly. The loader was at rest with the bucket on the floor and I could only wiggle the cylinder with one hand while trying to take a picture. I'm pretty sure I could get another .010~.015" standing straight up and a good grip on the cylinder end.
Where it attaches to the bucket is pretty sloppy too but I don't know if you'd want that fit much better.
I bought the loader new in 2013 and as I remember it's always been kinda sloppy down on that end.
At rest on floor.jpg lifted up.jpg Quick attach slop.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I checked a couple of joints this morning with a dial indicator. I put the indicator on the cylinder itself and moved the bucket up and down manually to see how much longitudinal slop there was in the joints. The joint pictured had about 0.100" of movement. I would attribute about half of that to the pin to cylinder joint, and about half to the pin to link joints. I also put the indicator on the upper bucket cylinder joint and got about 0.050" there. I still think that it's too much because all of the looseness added up makes it noticeable. But I'm going to wait until my neighbor has some free time to look at it with me. It always helps to have another opinion.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
423 Posts
I checked a couple of joints this morning with a dial indicator. I put the indicator on the cylinder itself and moved the bucket up and down manually to see how much longitudinal slop there was in the joints. The joint pictured had about 0.100" of movement. I would attribute about half of that to the pin to cylinder joint, and about half to the pin to link joints. I also put the indicator on the upper bucket cylinder joint and got about 0.050" there. I still think that it's too much because all of the looseness added up makes it noticeable. But I'm going to wait until my neighbor has some free time to look at it with me. It always helps to have another opinion.
There are lots of pivot points to a loader system so some slop is a inherent evil.
Go to a local dealer and shake a couple brand new machines for comparison.
Keep it greased and let her buck!
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top