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It turns over strong, but just wont fire. I have replaced gas, plugs, battery, wires, electronic ignition. I can see by the clear fuel filter it has gas. It puffs out smoke, but wont fire. It has the Marvel carburetor that will have gas sitting in the "throat" after I try to start it. The choke does function properly and I tested each cylinder for spark and its there. What am I missing?
 

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Does the carb have any kind of fuel cut off? Possibly an electric solenoid? My former 2030 gas tractor had one that failed and it would not a start.

Have you check compression? Low compression = hard or non starting.

Have you checked the dist cap, inside for carbon tracking. Sometimes a cap will be so bad spark goes to all cylinders and none fire. Or the spark gets shorted to ground.

Has the dist been removed and not reinstalled correctly?
 
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Since new wires, is it possible they are not going to correct plugs? :dunno: Been there, done that :banghead:
 
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Ran compression test with throttle wide open have good, even compression. Thought I'd try once more to start it forgot throttle was wide open but then it started won't start with throttle a little open but will wide open That a marvel carb issue?
 

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There may be a plugged passage(s) in the carb. Clean, see if very fine wire will go through any passages. Sometimes a soaking will clean better than just spraying cleaner at it. Blow compressed air through all passages.
 

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Are your spark plugs wet? Maybe it's flooding?

If you are getting black smoke during cranking and start at neat WOT you are too rich!
 

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Same thing happened Sunday to a 3020 I was looking at....and bought. Would not start. Turned out the wires in the key switched had to be fiddled with and it started right up.
 

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Still hard starting...

Transported to home and would not start, would not turn over. A couple of things:

*Mechanic said that the 400CCA battery wasn't enough amps even though new. So I went to TSC and the biggerst they have is a 460CCA. Put it in.
*Pulled each wire off the ignition switch, starter button and the wire harnesses coming off the dash and cleaned the connections.
*Noticed the shift lever wasn't in park, so put it in park..

Tractor turned over and started...with a shot of ether. Since then, it seems to start better cold. Once warm, it is a dog to get going

I noticed before the mechanic installed the new manifold, the 2 manifold outlets were open to the air. I saw in the manual that you leave them open/unblocked in warm weather and turn them(??) for cold weather. The mechanic put the blocks on which looks like it is set up for cold weather. I asked him about it and he said oh no, they have to be on and they have special expensive gaskets that are permanent. I am in a fog as to which way to go. Once it gets going and I travel it seems to run a little rough and usually that is fuel, air or plugs (it has new points).

I had read here too that you need to jiggle the steering wheel while starting so the hydraulic pump isn't fighting the engine turning over. Any insight on these thoughts and issues? Thank you
 

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I know there aren't a lot of 3010/3020 gassers around, but do I remember right that they were quite "cold-blooded"? I think I also recall two different carburetors.

Can any of you guys recall any fix?
 

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If you own a 3020 gas tractor you need to always have a spare set of plugs, autolite 386 work better than the champions, a hotter coil and copper conductor plug wires help. They run rich and are hard on plugs. When mine start to foul though it really doesn’t affect starting it always starts good. It will start missing on one or two cylinders typically. I have not noticed mine or others being cold blooded but it shouldn’t be with black smoke coming out the exhaust.


This place has a fix for it but it is a bit pricey. I have not bit the bullet on this and I probably should but everything I have seen says his carburetor fix works.

https://www.robertscarbrepair.com/carbid.asp


https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=25288
 
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Can anyone shed some light on this question? If open or closed doesn't matter then I won't fool with it.
 

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Can anyone shed some light on this question? If open or closed doesn't matter then I won't fool with it.
If that manifold has been off, perhaps it is not sealed correctly. When the tractor is running rough, spray some ether all around the area where the manifold meets the head and see if it makes a difference. Also spray all around the carburetor mounting flange. If it smooths out, it would indicate that you have an air leak.
 
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Can anyone shed some light on this question? If open or closed doesn't matter then I won't fool with it.
Unless there is a crack between the Warming Passage and Intake Throat withing the manifold, no, it doesn't matter.

Try doing what DR stated.

I have seen the intake manifold gaskets deteriorate over time.
 

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Okay, will give it a try. Although the manifold was replaced due to an air leak prior to me picking up the tractor. When I saw the tractor before I made the manifold replacement a condition of sale, I noticed the 2 open holes and I remember thinking that it was strange....it looks like something should be over those holes. Well, he put the covers on when he replaced the manifold. I have no experience with JD's let alone a "modern" tractor from the mid 60's. I am only familiar with 40's/50's Farmalls.

BUT, I will give the ether a try and look at the plugs as well. Thank you.
 
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Can you post a photo of the whole page. It appears both descriptions say set it to hot but I cant read the rest of the right paragraph. Mine is never run in freezing conditions but the blocks are both set to what that page shows as hot on mine.
 
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