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2017 3039R, MDS 60" grapple, RC2060, UA 42" pallet forks,
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy Friday!! This has just under 200hours on it. I'm planning on changing the oil next week, and have some questions. The users guide shows 12 steps, is that really all there is? How do the cylinders drain, or is their residual oil left in the system? Will it use the full 5.5 gallons? Is it true these are self bleeding, meaning that air pockets will not be a problem? If it does have a suction filter

I'm changing the oil because I've noticed little things here and there, curl doesn't have the fine touch it used to, lift doesn't seem to work for rated 1200 lbs, seems like I could only lift 7-8 80# cement bags(I excluded fork and pallet weight from total) and dropping 3-pt it bounces down, rather than a smooth descent. It does seem like symptoms are slowly getting worse. I'm hoping the filter and oil change will help with those issues.

I noticed in past posts that Coaltrain mentioned that there was a sump filter on a 3038E, that was shown under OMLVU28546 which is for a newer 3038E than my serial number which uses the OMLVU20279 manual. And the differences between the two serial numbers ranges for transmission oil and filter service intervals is VERY different:

3038E serial number up to 609999 using OMLVU20279 manual:
Every 50 Hours
• Check front axle oil level.
• Lubricate machine.
Every 200 Hours
• Change engine oil and filter.
• Inspect alternator belt.
• Check wheel bolt torque.
Every 400 Hours
Change transmission oil and filter.
• Replace fuel filter.

3038E serial number range 610000 - 709999 using OMLVU28546 manual:
791717

SOOO, the newer 3038e deere wants transmission oil and filter changed after 50 hours including cleaning suction screen, however my older one shows 1st transmission oil and filter change at 400 hours. Were there so many problems with the hydraulics that forced this service interval change between the two serial# ranges? I might be asking the wrong audience... sorry for the rambling, just trying to understand all this prior to oil change, and how these things will affect it. anf final question, if there is one, where should I look for this suction filter? thanks in advance
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How do the cylinders drain, or is their residual oil left in the system?
The loader cylinders will not drain. There will also be some residual left in other places - just the way it is.

Will it use the full 5.5 gallons?
What I do unless I’ve done enough oil changes on a certain piece of equipment is this -

If it calls for 5.5 gallons start with 4.5 gallons. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes then check the level. Then keep adding a quart at a time while waiting in between until you have it just right.

While you are waiting those 15-20 minutes intervals do your cleanup, put your tools away, grease the loader check the torque on your wheel bolts, etc.

Is it true these are self bleeding, meaning that air pockets will not be a problem?
Yes, they are self bleeding. Once the engine is running for a few seconds you are good to go.
 

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2017 3039R, MDS 60" grapple, RC2060, UA 42" pallet forks,
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The loader cylinders will not drain. There will also be some residual left in other places - just the way it is.



What I do unless I’ve done enough oil changes on a certain piece of equipment is this -

If it calls for 5.5 gallons start with 4.5 gallons. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes then check the level. Then keep adding a quart at a time while waiting in between until you have it just right.

While you are waiting those 15-20 minutes intervals do your cleanup, put your tools away, grease the loader check the torque on your wheel bolts, etc.



Yes, they are self bleeding. Once the engine is running for a few seconds you are good to go.
Thanks Stan, I appreciate the insight!
 

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Happy Friday!! This has just under 200hours on it. I'm planning on changing the oil next week, and have some questions. The users guide shows 12 steps, is that really all there is? How do the cylinders drain, or is their residual oil left in the system? Will it use the full 5.5 gallons? Is it true these are self bleeding, meaning that air pockets will not be a problem? If it does have a suction filter

I'm changing the oil because I've noticed little things here and there, curl doesn't have the fine touch it used to, lift doesn't seem to work for rated 1200 lbs, seems like I could only lift 7-8 80# cement bags(I excluded fork and pallet weight from total) and dropping 3-pt it bounces down, rather than a smooth descent. It does seem like symptoms are slowly getting worse. I'm hoping the filter and oil change will help with those issues.

I noticed in past posts that Coaltrain mentioned that there was a sump filter on a 3038E, that was shown under OMLVU28546 which is for a newer 3038E than my serial number which uses the OMLVU20279 manual. And the differences between the two serial numbers ranges for transmission oil and filter service intervals is VERY different:

3038E serial number up to 609999 using OMLVU20279 manual:
Every 50 Hours
• Check front axle oil level.
• Lubricate machine.
Every 200 Hours
• Change engine oil and filter.
• Inspect alternator belt.
• Check wheel bolt torque.
Every 400 Hours
Change transmission oil and filter.
• Replace fuel filter.

3038E serial number range 610000 - 709999 using OMLVU28546 manual:
View attachment 791717
SOOO, the newer 3038e deere wants transmission oil and filter changed after 50 hours including cleaning suction screen, however my older one shows 1st transmission oil and filter change at 400 hours. Were there so many problems with the hydraulics that forced this service interval change between the two serial# ranges? I might be asking the wrong audience... sorry for the rambling, just trying to understand all this prior to oil change, and how these things will affect it. anf final question, if there is one, where should I look for this suction filter? thanks in advance View attachment 791717
JD changed their service schedule around on the 3E series at least once, maybe twice. I don't believe there were any hydraulic issues at least mine has never had any that were related to the tractor that caused them to change their service schedule.

You have to include the weight of the forks and pallet when determining how much weight you are lifting. Also, how much ballast out back do you have, that effects how much you can lift as well.

As for the bouncing 3 pt hitch, that's not a good sign. I have seen other threads on here about that but can't recall what the issue was. Changing the fluid is always a good first step, usually the easiest thing to do. Remember there are two filters on a 3E series, JD calls one of them a screen. There is a big filter and a small one, both are screw on as IIRC. You will never completely drain the system so don't worry about the oil in the lift cylinders.

Hydraulic systems on JD's are all self bleeding so don't worry about the air in the system. When you fill it back up don't over fill it. Be patient as it may take a hot minute to get the hydraulics all functional again. Good luck, this can be a messy event.
 

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2017 3039R, MDS 60" grapple, RC2060, UA 42" pallet forks,
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
JD changed their service schedule around on the 3E series at least once, maybe twice. I don't believe there were any hydraulic issues at least mine has never had any that were related to the tractor that caused them to change their service schedule.

You have to include the weight of the forks and pallet when determining how much weight you are lifting. Also, how much ballast out back do you have, that effects how much you can lift as well.

As for the bouncing 3 pt hitch, that's not a good sign. I have seen other threads on here about that but can't recall what the issue was. Changing the fluid is always a good first step, usually the easiest thing to do. Remember there are two filters on a 3E series, JD calls one of them a screen. There is a big filter and a small one, both are screw on as IIRC. You will never completely drain the system so don't worry about the oil in the lift cylinders.

Hydraulic systems on JD's are all self bleeding so don't worry about the air in the system. When you fill it back up don't over fill it. Be patient as it may take a hot minute to get the hydraulics all functional again. Good luck, this can be a messy event.
Thanks 69project!! I had an RC2060 on the back - some 700lbs there. And the tires were filled with beet juice. I meant to say that I was excluding the weight of the forks and pallet from the 1200 lbs I could lift, so I was hoping for about 900lbs of cement I could lift or more than 10 80lb sacks.

I've read horror stories about trying to get those hydraulic filters off, I wonder how a pipe wrench would work? And I am prepared to take off that left wheel, I'm sure hoping I don't have to, but you gotta do what you gotta do, right? And yes, I'm going to try real hard to be patient after re-filling and starting - it's sorta like waiting on the birth of your first kid - or delivery of your first tractor 😄. I'm sure hoping this will resolve the issues, it's been a good tractor since I got it 3 years ago, some scary times, but mostly good feelings. thanks again!!
 

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I have a 2017 3032e, and changed mine at 50 hrs then at 100. Filters were pretty tight, but I had no issues changing mine with the rear wheel in place. I was having issues with leak down on my FEL as others have noted at times. While bushhogging I would have to raise the hydraulics up quite often.

My 50 hr change I went back with the low viscosity like the factory fill. Droop issues continued. The next season went with hi viscosity oil, and the bleeddown has all but stopped.

The trans change is pretty simple, hardest part was holding the 5 gallon bucket of oil and not spilling any lol.

Strap wrench worked fine on the filters, I wish they used the end socket type on these. You can give the orings on the filters a shot of lube before you start, it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thankyou PrarieFarmer! I will shoot some penetrating oil on the orings - good idea! I haven't noticed any leakdowns, knock on wood... I'm going up Wednesday to work on that, I'm hoping that those filters are hard to get off, indicating they are original and hopefully fluid and filter change resolve my problems. I bought the JD hy-gard, from what I saw it is a hi-viscosity oil. thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok, that's a done deal. The filters came off easy, maybe due to PrarieFarmer's advice, I did shoot some penertrating oil around the filters and then moved some dirt around to warm up the oil and help the penetrating oil do it's thing. The whole process is documented pretty well in the owners manual so I can't think of anything to add there. The tractor's loader feels better as far as the curl function, it sounds quieter in general, I haven't been able to do a lift test to determine if I can lift more bags of concrete. I'm pretty sure one of those filters was plugged causing insufficient hydraulic oil flow and creating my problems. The oil was a bit brown, but not bad, and it smelled good, not burnt. Many thanks to coaltrain, 69project, prariefamer and all others whose posts I had read previously researching this problem. As Bruce Willis said in one of his movies, Yippee-Ki-Yay!!
 
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