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Discussion Starter #1
I just recently replaced my dash panel and now when I turn the key to the ON position I hear the initial click but now the relay continues to click about every second it clicks and when I turn the key to Crank it try’s to crank at the same rate the relay is clicking. I changed the relay out with a new one and still the same problem. Has anyone had an issue like this before. I really need my tractor going as it has finally dried up and I need to finish my driveway out.
 

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Have you tested the battery?
 
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I haven’t tested it but I did run jumper cables to it from a excavator. Did the same thing.
It could still be the battery terminal connections and/or battery cables or ground connections. Assuming of course that you just clamped the jumper cables onto the cable clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I’ll have to see if I can get it load tested. It’s not an old battery. I replaced it the same time I did the panel toward the end of last year. The cables are tight on the posts.
 

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I’ll have to see if I can get it load tested. It’s not an old battery. I replaced it the same time I did the panel toward the end of last year. The cables are tight on the posts.
Typically whenever you have a problem that even remotely could be a battery problem it pays to check all the connections. Start by removing the cables and cleaning both the battery terminals and inside the cable clamps. Next check the connections at the other end of the ground cable and positive cable.

Check the voltage at the battery during cranking. A surefire test to ensure everything is okay is to attach a voltmeter to the other end of the positive cable and ground. Crank the engine. If the voltage stays around 10 volts or higher during cranking (or attempting to crank) then chances are the battery is good and your getting good voltage to the starter.
 

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I’ll have to see if I can get it load tested. It’s not an old battery. I replaced it the same time I did the panel toward the end of last year. The cables are tight on the posts.

Beings how it sounds like you changed out the dash 3-4 months ago, did the tractor ever start after the dash swap?
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I’ll have to see if I can get it load tested. It’s not an old battery. I replaced it the same time I did the panel toward the end of last year. The cables are tight on the posts.

Beings how it sounds like you changed out the dash 3-4 months ago, did the tractor ever start after the dash swap?
Yes sir I used it after the dash swap. No issues. It’s been sitting for a few months now without being cranked. I will check connections. Also will try the volt meter at the battery during cranking.
 

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Voltage drops to around 8.5 during cranking. Wish I could post a video.
That’s too low. Is that measured at the battery terminals or at the other end of the cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's at the battery posts. I am also thinking it may be the switch. I did get it started, I was messing with the back of the switch and the starter solenoid relay locked in like it usually does. Engine turned over normally and fired off. While it was running my dad bumped the console and it shut down. After that I never could get even the start relay to click like before. Fixing to try a new switch since they are generic.
 

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Ok update, it was the ignition switch. Stopped and started it several times. Everything acting normal!! Thank yall.
That's still a pretty weak battery if the voltage drops down to 8.5 when you put a load on it. Don't be surprised if it dies on you in the near future. Hopefully if you run it a good long while it will charge back up and stay that way.
 
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That's still a pretty weak battery if the voltage drops down to 8.5 when you put a load on it. Don't be surprised if it dies on you in the near future. Hopefully if you run it a good long while it will charge back up and stay that way.
Yeah, usually looking for 9.6+ at draw
 

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3038e Starting Issue

Hi, adding to this thread with a "Play by Play" description of another 3038e starting issue.

The tractor worked flawless up until about two months ago. At that time it began to exhibit an intermittent starting issue where when the key was turned the starter would engage and turn the engine maybe one revolution then stop. If the key was released and turned again, the same one revolution and stop would occur. Eventually, after several tries the starter would stay engaged and turn over the engine until it started. This would not occur every time I tried to start so I attributed it to maybe a weak charge on the battery or dirty connections. So I cleaned connections and charged the battery. The problem remained but still intermittent and I was able to get it started about 50% of the time.

Last week however, I tried to start the tractor and it exhibited the one revolution and stop. This time it threw up a code "ECU A 1485.2". I could not get it started. Had the local JD dealer mechanic come out. He was unable to get it started so now it is at the dealer.

I will keep posting as to what they find.

Hope this helps someone else.

Also, FYI Warranty ran out on May 9th so I will see what JD can do if regarding customer satisfaction if the repair is significant!!
 

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Follow-up after tractor has been repaired.

After trying several fixes without success, the local dealer talked with a JD technical person. They suggested that the issue might be caused by intermittent contact of a 20A fuse near the battery. The dealer took a look and sure enough the fuse was fine but the connection was intermittent. They replaced the fuse connection/socket and the problem was fixed.

The dealer stated that in their experience, JD would not extend the warranty or cover the repair. The dealer offered to split the repair cost with me. I thought that was a fair offer so the issue ended up costing me $390 including pick-up and delivery of the tractor.

So, short summary - Intermittent 20A fuse connector caused the issue. Received prompt and professional service from local dealer. Dealer received good support from JD. Tractor is back on-line and looking for work.....
 
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