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Discussion Starter #1
Well, my dealer strikes again.

Their lack of a proper and thorough PDI is very evident.

I was poking around under the hood a couple of weeks ago and noticed the coolant recovery tank was bone dry. (Tractor had 34 hours on it at that point). So, popped the radiator cap and noted that the coolant was about 3/4" below the bottom of the neck. Went to the Deere dealer and got some pre-mixed Coolguard and filled up the recovery tank. I've run the tractor about 5 times since then and the level in the recovery tank has not budged, nor has the radiator level. In my estimation it should have taken about two full thermal cycles for the coolant to fill up the radiator.

I've removed the hose from the radiator to the recovery tank and blew through it, bubbles in the tank, so no obstruction there. When I took the overflow hose off the radiator I noted coolant present ,so that does not appear to be obstructed either. I've looked at the cap and no obvious issues that I can see. Cap was and is installed properly. I see no coolant leaks and tractor has never overheated.

First thing to check I guess, is the cap. I guess it could not be allowing any pressure to build up, therefore, no vacuum as it cools off. Anyone's thoughts?

Thanks!

Jeff
 
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Keep an eye on your temperature gauge and run it, you have a 6 year warranty.
 
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First thing to check I guess, is the cap. I guess it could not be allowing any pressure to build up, therefore, no vacuum as it cools off. Anyone's thoughts?

Thanks!

Jeff
You didn't say whether or not you had checked the coolant level previously or when the tractor was first delivered. If not, then I would say it was low from the dealer. The engine couldn't have gotten too hot else you would have noticed it on the temperature gauge. That tractor may also have an over-temperature error light.

I know on my 2720 the level in the overflow tank pretty much stays at the same level all the time - hot or cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You didn't say whether or not you had checked the coolant level previously or when the tractor was first delivered. If not, then I would say it was low from the dealer. The engine couldn't have gotten too hot else you would have noticed it on the temperature gauge. That tractor may also have an over-temperature error light.

I know on my 2720 the level in the overflow tank pretty much stays at the same level all the time - hot or cold.
Oh, I know darn well It had to have been delivered that way. I was just a little embarrassed I did not check it sooner. The radiator is by no means "low" (has at least an inch of coolant above the tubes) it is just not as full as it should be.

I'm just puzzled as to why it will not draw fluid into the radiator from the recovery tank? Radiator cap "looks" OK and is properly installed and tight. :good2:

Jeff
 

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Oh, I know darn well It had to have been delivered that way. I was just a little embarrassed I did not check it sooner. The radiator is by no means "low" (has at least an inch of coolant above the tubes) it is just not as full as it should be.

I'm just puzzled as to why it will not draw fluid into the radiator from the recovery tank? Radiator cap "looks" OK and is properly installed and tight. :good2:

Jeff
For the radiator to draw coolant in from the over flow tank the line from the tank and the radiator has to be full, fill the radiator and run it, it will purge the air out sooner or later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
For the radiator to draw coolant in from the over flow tank the line from the tank and the radiator has to be full, fill the radiator and run it, it will purge the air out sooner or later.
I've done that at least 5 times. Recovery tank is full.
 

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I've done that at least 5 times. Recovery tank is full.
Did you also fill the radiator to the top?
It takes time to purge all the last bit of air out.
 
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I've done that at least 5 times. Recovery tank is full.
Fill radiator until it runs down the tube to recovery tank and replace cap.

The radiator must be full for recovery tank to function properly.

Good Luck Sir!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fill radiator until it runs down the tube to recovery tank and replace cap.

The radiator must be full for recovery tank to function properly.

Good Luck Sir!
I agree, cap is suspect. However, Every time an engine with a recovery system operates, it builds pressure in the radiator. So even with it slightly low, it should be drawing coolant back into the radiator as the engine cools off and the coolant contracts, creating a vacuum.

So after 5-6 times to operating temperature and then subsequent complete cool downs I should see some drop in the recovery tank. I'm not.

I've drained and refilled dozens of radiators over the years. You never get them completely full, that is why you also top off the recovery tank and let it draw the rest of the coolant from there. That is not happening here. I plan to have the cap tested.

Jeff
 

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Well, my dealer strikes again.

Their lack of a proper and thorough PDI is very evident.

I was poking around under the hood a couple of weeks ago and noticed the coolant recovery tank was bone dry. (Tractor had 34 hours on it at that point). So, popped the radiator cap and noted that the coolant was about 3/4" below the bottom of the neck. Went to the Deere dealer and got some pre-mixed Coolguard and filled up the recovery tank. I've run the tractor about 5 times since then and the level in the recovery tank has not budged, nor has the radiator level. In my estimation it should have taken about two full thermal cycles for the coolant to fill up the radiator.

I've removed the hose from the radiator to the recovery tank and blew through it, bubbles in the tank, so no obstruction there. When I took the overflow hose off the radiator I noted coolant present ,so that does not appear to be obstructed either. I've looked at the cap and no obvious issues that I can see. Cap was and is installed properly. I see no coolant leaks and tractor has never overheated.

First thing to check I guess, is the cap. I guess it could not be allowing any pressure to build up, therefore, no vacuum as it cools off. Anyone's thoughts?

Thanks!

Jeff
I had the same issue with my 3039R. Since I live 55 miles away the dealer was more than happy to give me some pre-mix rather than make a service call under warranty
 

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Shortly after I got my 3039R I noticed that the overflow reservoir was down a little from when I brought it home.

I topped it off and it has been good to go since.

I'm thinking your cap might be a good suspect.
 
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Shortly after I got my 3039R I noticed that the overflow reservoir was down a little from when I brought it home.

I topped it off and it has been good to go since.

I'm thinking your cap might be a good suspect.
As already mentioned, I think it's because of a failure on the manufacture's part for not having enough run cycles on the engine to eliminate all of the air from from the cooling system by bleeding it. Of course then it falls on the dealership to do it during the PDI. Well, we all know about the short cuts that are taken on anything that's done during a PDI, with the correct air pressure in the tires being a common one. As mentioned in a previous comment, my cooling system was low on my 3039R and I had to top it off too. After that it hasn't been low since then.
 
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Oh, I know darn well It had to have been delivered that way. I was just a little embarrassed I did not check it sooner. The radiator is by no means "low" (has at least an inch of coolant above the tubes) it is just not as full as it should be.

I'm just puzzled as to why it will not draw fluid into the radiator from the recovery tank? Radiator cap "looks" OK and is properly installed and tight. :good2:

Jeff[/QUOT

Possibly caused by the air space between the overflow tube entrance inside the radiator to the top of the coolant in the radiator. If there is a continuous fluid flow without an air space between the radiator fluid and the reservoir fluid, you have a continuous uninterrupted flow of fluid between the fluid in the radiator and the fluid in the reservoir enabling the fluid to flow in both directions. Does any one remember the days when we tried to siphon gas from one vehicle to put in another and if you got air in the siphon tube by raising the tube too high out of the tank you have to suck on the hose again to get it started. Once the flow was started it was good to go. I think this analogy is similar to the flow of the radiator coolant flow to the reservoir tank and back to the radiator as the engine cools. Once that air gap is there it quits flowing. If the the reservoir was sealed whereas you could draw a vacuum on it, you wouldn't need a tube going to the bottom of the reservoir tank into the fluid because a vacuum in the tank would draw the fluid out because of the internal tank vacuum that's created by the coolant in the radiator cooling and contracting

To make a long story shorter. I would say keep the radiator filled to the overflow tube entrance and make sure the bottom of tube in the reservoir is covered with at least an inch of fluid so when the radiator fluid cools and contracts it will form a vacuum on the overflow tube and draw the fluid back into the radiator that was expelled when the coolant expanded from being heated.
 
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