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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 3046R is a bit tippy, seems fairly common based on GTT posts. R1 tires, 58 inches edge-to-edge, 61 inch bucket. I'd like more stability, especially having seen a recent photo on GTT of someone mowing and tipping over. I researched the forum and decided that $$$ Bora 2-inch spacers would be in my future. Then I went up to the shop to look at my wheels and tires again and discovered that the wheels are on the most narrow setting (see pic below). Called my local dealer, and they said if I want more stability on this tractor I need to get wheel weights. I have filled tires, lots of ballast, and THIS wheel setup. And I recently saw a GTT post with a photo of a cab version of the 3046R with the wheels at the widest setting.

Then I looked through the manual and it says this under "Changing Wheel Spacing and Tread Width": "Rear tires can be mounted in one position only." Nothing at all about remounting the wheel insert on the other side of the rim, which would give me two inches more on each side without the need to buy and install spacers. I've also seen a diagram on the forum about the 8 positions typically possible on similar wheels -- I did that kind of adjustment on my Ford 1910 maybe 25 years ago.

I figured I could swap my setup to mount the left on the right side, etc. but that would probably add 6 inches to each side. With a 61 inch bucket I want to keep to 2 inches per side so that I can mostly cover my tracks when back-blading.

So -- advice anyone? Really disappointed in my JD dealer, but if worse comes to worse I may stop by and talk to their mechanics -- the parts and sales folks are clueless about these kinds of issues (and maybe that's true everywhere).

782818
 

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Then I looked through the manual and it says this under "Changing Wheel Spacing and Tread Width": "Rear tires can be mounted in one position only."
Maybe they were referring to the R4 Tires and Rims.

The rims you show pictured are adjustable.

If they are loaded they are a bear to handle and I'd recommend getting help. Me, I'd call a tire service and have them come out since I don't have the proper tools, like a wheel lift / dolly.
 

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I'd vote on moving your rim to the outside of the center plate (y)
 

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I am the one that flipped the tractor and I have the same wheels and tires that you have.

I am in a little bit different situation because I have to run my tractor in vineyard rows so I am limited in the width that I can have.

But I am probably going to get weights and move my wheels out (If they will work in that position).

Our wheels are 4 position wheels. You have two options on the dish and two options on the mounting rim to dish. It appears that your dish is out and that your rims are in. So that would be in the 3rd widest position. To go to the widest position you would need to remove the wheel take the dish off the rim and move it to the other side. The remount the 8 bolts that hold the dish to the rim, and remount it to the Tractor.

If you have a bottle jack you can jack up your tractor and do this fairly easily.

But if you do not want to do it yourself, this is something that a mobile tire person could do very easily for you.
 

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Yes you can mount in multiple different orientations with the R1 tires. I have to check but I think I have mine mounted on the inside of the rim mount and also have the 61" bucket. To help with ballast I have three wheel weights on each rear tire (no fluid). That made a huge difference in stability.
 

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Looks like the hubs are already in the the outer most position, about all you can do is move the wheel to the outside for max width. As mentioned, if loaded with liquid ballast they can be a bear to handle.

After that Wheel spacers would be in order to go any wider.
Personally I think all 3Rs really should have wheel spacers to get them stable, especially on a cab model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes you can mount in multiple different orientations with the R1 tires. I have to check but I think I have mine mounted on the inside of the rim mount and also have the 61" bucket. To help with ballast I have three wheel weights on each rear tire (no fluid). That made a huge difference in stability.
That makes the most sense to me, and the direction I was headed in when I posted, wanted to get some independent opinions. I had similar wheels and R1’s on my Ford and did change things up.

I see 2 options: get mobile service to do this, or use my car floor jack and my beefy jack stands with my son’s help. He’s a big strong guy.

I have filled tires and a Heavy Hitch. The HH is typically on when I am on a slope for grapple work to offset the weight of logs, and I rarely go perpendicular to the slope. Don’t mow on a slope, fortunately.

Thanks for all the replies!
 

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I have the larger R4s on my 3720, adding 2" spacers made a noticeable difference.

Edit: Also, you don't have to lift loaded tires, you can maneuver them carefully while keeping them upright and never letting them tip over...a second set of hands does help though.
 

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As Brads Vineyard said, you have the option of also unbolting the outer rim from the cast center section, and swapping them from the left side of the machine to the right and right side to left, facing the tread the same direction it is now. That will allow the option of the second widest and widest positions that your combo offers. It will put your valve stem to the inside. But, you should/will gain a considerable amount of width.

Do you have an operators manual for your machine? It will specify all of this, in it.


Edit; Are they still cast centers, or stamped steel?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As Brads Vineyard said, you have the option of also unbolting the outer rim from the cast center section, and swapping them from the left side of the machine to the right and right side to left, facing the tread the same direction it is now. That will allow the option of the second widest and widest positions that your combo offers. It will put your valve stem to the inside. But, you should/will gain a considerable amount of width.

Do you have an operators manual for your machine? It will specify all of this, in it.
The manual I got only said what I noted in my original post above. I am on target to go to a 2-inch wider setting tomorrow morning. The super wide option can be accomplished by just swapping sides like I noted above, but I don’t want 6 inches wider per side. The two inches is based on width of bucket and Kenny’s (& that of others) positive experience in going 2 inches more per side, adding 4 inches to total rear width. I’m confident that will do what I need.
 
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Gotcha. In the manual for my machine, it gets very specific on changing rear wheel positions.
If you also swap sides, tread facing forward, valve stem inward, but have the center section inverted (dish inward, opposite of your pic) you will have other width options too. I'm not sure how they would specifically differ on your machine (numbers wise), in that configuration, but it's more options to choose from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Gotcha. In the manual for my machine, it gets very specific on changing rear wheel positions.
If you also swap sides, tread facing forward, valve stem inward, but have the center section inverted (dish inward, opposite of your pic) you will have other width options too. I'm not sure how they would specifically differ on your machine (numbers wise), in that configuration, but it's more options to choose from.
Yep, thanks SRG. My Ford 1910 manual also was that specific, and that’s why I widened the Ford rear R1’s 25 years ago. My JD manual is not great. However, a post on another thread had a nice diagram from another tractor that is much as you describe. I’ve also done this mod on an older Kubota and a neighbor’s old Case. Just wanted to check in with the GTT pros before getting out the wrenches, jack stands and floor jack. In my next life I will rewrite JD manuals.
 

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Sounds like you got it.
Odd that the manual is so vague on the subject.
 

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Pretty poor on JD's part saying those are one position wheels.
They are 8 position wheels. All positions may not fit your tractor.
Center can be dish in or dish out (2 positions)
Wheel/rim can be mounted inside the center or outside the center (2 positions)
Wheel/rim can have valve stem inboard or out board. (2 positions)
2 x2 x2 = 8 positions
A better manual would tell the tread width for each position and tell which, if any positions, were not usable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Done — ready for the drag races!

782977
782978
 

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Thats why I love the AG tire/wheel combo. Very versatile, with the adjustability.
 
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How much did you gain? The only way to get wider yet is put the wheels valve stem in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How much did you gain? The only way to get wider yet is put the wheels valve stem in.
As expected I got 2 inches more per side, for a total of 4 inches wider. I know I can flip the wheels (left to right and right to left to keep the tread in correct position), but my target was 2 inches more per side.

And yes, I know about all the options for these kinds of wheels. Did this with 3 other non-JD tractors with R1 tires. Easy, quick, and I got the expected increase in stability.
 

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Steve,

I am thinking about doing the same on my tractor. It is at Deere right now so I can not measure mine to see how wide it will be by adding the 4".

Could you measure the overall with of your tires now that you made the swap? I would really appreciate it. I want to confirm the total width before I go ahead and have Deere do it while it is in the shop.

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Steve,

I am thinking about doing the same on my tractor. It is at Deere right now so I can not measure mine to see how wide it will be by adding the 4".

Could you measure the overall with of your tires now that you made the swap? I would really appreciate it. I want to confirm the total width before I go ahead and have Deere do it while it is in the shop.

Thanks in advance
Brad — 60 inches edge to edge, HUGE improvement in stability.

Edit: so mine must have been 56 inches before the shift. I measured more carefully this time.

786108
 
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