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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy,
So I got the sector and shaft out now. Both have wear. The bolt in the yoke was tight but the yoke was turning on the sector shaft.
Are either salvageable? Sector seems nice and snug. The u-joints on the steering shaft seem tight also.

Thoughts? Ideas?

PS. It's snowing. :(
 

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My brother had a similar situation on the steering linkage of his Ford 1210. Replacement parts were only available for one side and they were like $300. We decided to put it back together, tighten the bolt and then put two weld beads around the junction of the yoke and shaft. Problem solved. If it ever needs to be disassembled 5-mins with an angle grinder will remove the weld beads. It probably sounds like a crude fix but it's been several years and the steering remains nice and tight.
 

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Two thoughts.

Take a cutoff grinding wheel and open up the slot. There are enough teeth left there that if you can get it to clamp down further it should grab. It looks like it is worn enough that even though the bolt was tight the slot probably stopped it from clamping down hard enough. This would be my first thought.

2nd. If you do that and it does not hold clamp it down and drill a hole though both pieces and put a bolt through them. That is an ugly fix and does not allow for it to adjust to the length you might need.

He posted the same time as me. This is a good plan as well.
My brother had a similar situation on the steering linkage of his Ford 1210. Replacement parts were only available for one side and they were like $300. We decided to put it back together, tighten the bolt and then put two weld beads around the junction of the yoke and shaft. Problem solved. If it ever needs to be disassembled 5-mins with an angle grinder will remove the weld beads. It probably sounds like a crude fix but it's been several years and the steering remains nice and tight.
 

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Steve, after installing arm and tightening bolt, do you still have a gap? If you do, it's the best its gonna be. If not, grind it again. If you need to remove arm, heat is the only way to go now that you have red Locktite...could have used blue. Use welding as your last resort. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep, still has a gap. Once I get the rest of the tractor back together I'll give it a proper test in this snow.
I think the prior owner parked it underwater after every use. Every bushing and linkage is seized.

Does the 316 have a fan at the back of the transaxle? I have a splined shaft at the back but nothing on it.

Also, is the Neutral Return Guide (#20) a roller or just a stationary pin?

Thanks
 

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I cannot find a spline shaft but according to the parts illustration there is a fan on the drive shaft.

 

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Steve, Previous owner may have had a tiller on the rear. Mounting the tiller drive requires removing the existing fan and installing the tiller drive pulley with a "built-in" fan. This was removed prior to the sale.

As far as the return to neutral linkage, I believe...not 100% sure...item 20 gets bolted solid to your fwd/rev lever linkage and does not rotate. When you press on the brake pedal(s), item 20 moves item 18, which then moves the fwd/rev lever into neutral. If you have any creep in neutral, this is your starting point...get this into neutral and then adjust rear linkage to hydro unit.

Hope this helps rather than confuses! Bob
 

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The neutral return is a bushing that like to seize.

Looking at pictures I’m thinking 316 onan not 316k. I think the fan was only on the kohler models. Either way unless your doing ground work or towing heavy loads in hot weather it’s completely unnecessary.
 

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Yes, 316 Onan.

Good thing I didn't get the batt box back in yet. Have to loosen up that damn bushing.
Maybe tomorrow I can blow the snow. LoL
Part of the reason they freeze is because the brake is unnecessary with that hydro. Without split brakes the only time I use the pedal is to park it running, and that still doesn’t use that feature.
 
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well, got it all back together. I didn't have time to work on the neutral bushing but I took your advice and just used the speed lever. Also didn't swap out the seat or put the side covers back on.
Go the driveway all done after our 15" snowfall on Thurs.
My S.O. was pretty anxious to get the driveway cleared.

Question though on the tire chains. They seem to be rubbing on the brake levers. Is that the wrong size chains, wrong tires (10.5" I believe), or...??
 

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If your tires are set to narrow, clearance is at a premium.

My loader stays in wide. Other tractors I try to keep in narrow with tight chains.
 
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Steve, Center section of the rear rims are "offset." Mounting them as you have them give you the narrow width. Remove, turn around and mount. You'll have the wide width.

A helpful hint on wheel weights: Get carriage bolts that are threaded all the way to the square near the head...or thread them yourself 1/2-13. Insert bolt, flat washer & nut, and tighten or at least snug. This holds the bolt in place on the rim. No more struggling to hold weight with one hand, carriage bolt with other hand, and install washer(s) & nut with ???
 
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He-he, We ALL did! Just tryin' to help!

BTW, EXCELLANT post by Chuck with great follow-ups. Bob
 
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