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Discussion Starter #1
We went over the weekend to pick up the parts haul from the same guy I bought my 317 from.

100$ for a mint 140 seat, really nice 212 hood with 3 intact mounts and one that's pulled the bolts out but is still in one piece, one single awful side panel from my 317, a motor, what's left of my brother's 300 minus the engine, a steering wheel for his patio 140, a transmission speed control handle, and a headlight lens.

My brother's 300 is for parts, so I stole the steering wheel, rear plate, the intact brake pads and drum, and the choke cable, and my brother took the front lines, front plate, H2 valve and handles, and the front tires.

We will be selling what's left, which isn't much, just the bad transmission and the steering components.

So about the motor: it's a K321 from a 214. It's...seen better days. It has had a fuel pump replacement, which went on with no gasket, and of course leaks like a sieve. It must've ran without oil, the original owner decided to run it till it blew up, then rebuilt it, even worse than original. They added an insert to fix the excessive tolerance on the crank, replaced the whole piston, and honed it.

EVERYTHING THEY DID IS WRONG.

The insert was added onto the heavily scored crank, which of course was grabbed by the ridges and it began spinning the insert.

They honed it incorrectly by shoving the hone in and not moving it at all while holding the button on the drill, so the crosshatching is horizontal.

The motor, to no one's surprise, threw another rod after just about 4 or 5 hours of running.

Luckily for me, it threw both rods into the oil pan, which ruined the pan and required RTV, Silicone, and a pan gasket to seal after the first thrown rod.

Good thing we have a 140 crank and piston I can use to replace the damaged ones, so I guess I'll rehone the cylinder and reuse the new piston head from the 214 motor and the rod and crank from the 140 motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I spent 6 whole hours yesterday and still wasn't able to get the flywheel off. I've been at this for almost a week at this point. I'm getting tired of this. My whole weight on a pry bar on the flywheel and still won't pop. It's like the freaking hulk pounded the flywheel on with a sledgehammer.



Anyway, I decided that since the flywheel is being an annoying son of a heck I'd just take the rest of the motor apart.

Oh.

My.

God.

The list of stuff they did wrong keeps piling up. Here's the updated version.

Didn't mic crank when adding insert
Honed it sort of correctly (They roughed it up but not well)
Fuel pump screws hand tightened (didn't use a screw driver or anything)
No gasket on fuel pump
No gasket, seal, gaskets, or sponge in breather
incorrect baffle in breather
gaskets in breather replaced with way too much silicone
Rod and cap in backwards
Coil shroud on sideways
Muffler chopped open and rewelded
Baffle and muffler shield horribly cracked and damaged
Condensor not bolted down
Pliers used on everything
Yikes.



So, the bore is roughed up, but the crosshatching is horizontal, not diagonal. Would I still be able to use the bore and have the rings seat?
 

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Mudrig, The Kohler Service Manual recommends a puller to remove the flywheel, "El Cheapo's" can be bought at Harbor Freight and many auto parts stores have these to lend/rent.

Cylinder honing: The concept of the 45º cross hatch is primarily for oil retention during the seating process. Rings are hard, walls are soft and oil is maintained between the cross hatch lines so your walls wear in and not pick-up and/or gall. You should be OK with horizontal honing lines, but I'd mic the bores and see if there's any stock left to possibly hone them correctly. If no stock, kep your fingers crossed and run as is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did use a puller and all that accomplished was ripping the threads out of the flywheel. This thing is torqued on at least 10x over spec.
 

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Mudrig, 2 solutions: cut flywheel in half and remove (NOT SUGESTED!!!) or re-tap. Drill existing hole larger, progressively about 1/32 or 1/16 at a time, and re-tap. Install puller and snug. Apply PB and let sit overnight. Snug puller til tight, REAL tight, and tap puller screw with steel hammer. Use a steel hammer, you want a "shock effect". When flywheel does come off, it's gonna fly off, so don't be in front of it and be prepared! The crank shaft is tapered and just a little over-tightening makes it a bear to remove the flywheel. When re-assembling, put never seize on crank shaft, it prevents galvanic corrosion (a battery affect between 2 dissimilar metals that will actually weld them together) between the 2 parts.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I got the flywheel off, yay!!!!

It was just...loose. Like I lifted it and it didn't even pop, just slid off.
Huh.
Oh, and I figured out why it was so stubborn. The keyway must've been worn, so they filled it with welds and welded the key in...? Another thing to add to the Journal of Destruction™.

So I got the crank out and decided to test fit a rod with horribly worn end (probably .30 out of spec), and it was tight on the shaft. As in literally no rotation on the journal. So they used too big of an insert. That explains why it threw another rod.

But hey, the block and skirt are perfectly fine! A little sludged up, but fine either way. Good.
Also I do believe it's well within spec. I shoved the rod in and it fits nice and tight. Also good.
Crank teeth on the donor crank are fine, so are the camshaft teeth. Also good!
Governor seems fine. Every part is pretty much usable, except the rod and crank, of course.
 
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I'm glad to hear you've got some good news! With all of the extra parts you have, you've got a crank & rod(s) ? Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep. A 140 crank and rod and I'm using the flywheel from the 214 motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yep. We have a crank and rod from a 140 motor we tore down, I'll be using it plus the newish 214 piston head and wrist pin. NO play in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So hopefully this week I can go pick up my free 140.

69 H1, might be a patio, has hood and everything. No engine and broken steering box. Excited!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, I test fit the motor in the 317 with the wierd 300 canopy mount brackets and what do ya know, they fit perfectly. An inch and a half was just right to mount the motor, with the narrow base deep pan. Just need to order a ring compressor and a gasket kit to put the K321 in, and get the engine mounts made.

You can barely see it but the pan does line up. Flywheel shroud also barely fits.

Here's the 317+212 side panels+K321. The side panels need some trimming to allow the fenders to move forward but it'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So we went up to the backroads of west virginia and went and picked up a Kohler magnum 18 from a snapper for the 317. It's sat for a while, only turns half a turn, so I think it has a stuck valve or two. Hoping to dump it into the 317 and just send her!
 

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Until it ended up being the huge amount of rust in the cylinder instead of a stuck valve. What is the next engine of the week going to be?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pulled the heads off, found out the reason it only turns over half a turn is because there was a crap ton of rust in the cylinder.
Got that cleaned out and now it's good. 3.122 inches, so it's pretty close.
Got the magnum 18 set in the frame. Just need to get a key for my driveshaft and get the head bolts torqued down. Wiring still needs to be done.

Headlight switch was an absolute nightmare to get out.
Last night I got the 300 seat swapped and fenders cleaned and bolted down. This seat was AWFUL. All 4 bolts are ripped out of the seat pan so the PO of the fenders removed the padding, flipped the bolts, then added a bunch of washers.
The fenders are super nice, and so are the side panels I got for the tractor, which, by the way, didn't fit. To get the side panel to fit, I ended up just breaking off one of the tack welds then peeling the air scoop off the side panel. Guess it works. Just need to get the fuel tank in and hooked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nice. Thinking about mounting my remote oil filter above the air cleaner (it will have the square one which is large and flat), that way I can easily put a catch pan underneath and if any drips make it past they'll just end up oilling the precleaner. Could I run it with the 200 series side panels on it? I don't see why it would hurt anything, the air comes from the back of the tractor and goes across the heads and out the bottom, under the muffler box.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Waxed the hood, looks pretty good. Ended up buying another tractor with a magnum 18. That engine is going into the 317 and the current motor is going in the Snapper. Gonna keep the square air cleaner on it just to make people confused as to why the "Onan" has such a small air cleaner.
 

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I like the cool air cleaner on my Mag 18:


Reminds me of an old Mopar air cleaner!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That looks... incredibly goofy.
 

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Not only looks goofy, but tires are mounted backwards!
 
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