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Discussion Starter #1
My 3520 has a bit over 500 hours, I purchased it used a year ago. The Right Steering Cylinder Ball Joint has no grease fitting and the rubber cup around the joint is torn apart. Do I need to replace the whole cylinder assembly or can the ball joint be replaced separately? It isn’t an emergency but I don’t like the inability to properly grease it and I’m sure dirt and sand is going to get in there. Thanks for any thoughts or experience with this!
 

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Well I’m posting a reply in case someone else has this problem. Apparently this ball joint was made in 2 versions, with and without grease fitting. I was able to get the replacement for the torn black rubber which is now a clear silicone substitute. Package of 2 for ~$25. I’m guessing the new material is for a reason. I will post pics when I get around to doing the job.
 
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Thanks for the info, I may need this one day :good2:

Do you have the part number for the pack of two?
 
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I may need it sooner rather than later!

Wouldn't mind seeing a video of the replacement process as well!! :)

Sent by Tapatalk using the tiny keyboard on my phone. That explains the typos!
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info, I may need this one day


Do you have the part number for the pack of two?
My tractor is at my cabin and I left there today. The package with the replacements is with the tractor. I will definitely post the part # when I get back there!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I may need it sooner rather than later!

Wouldn't mind seeing a video of the replacement process as well!! :)

Sent by Tapatalk using the tiny keyboard on my phone. That explains the typos!
I will definitely post pics as I do it...not sure I can do a video since I’ll be figuring it out as I go. I took some pics of the ball joint before I left my cabin and I’ll post the best one tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This pic shows the ball joint with the missing rubber. The hole in the center top is not a broken grease fitting, it’s a cap. Since the package comes with 2 replacement seals, I’m guessing the left side joint probably needs a good inspection too. There is a groove at the bottom rim of the top member of the joint. The new seals come with large retainer rings that seat in the groove. There are also 2 smaller rings for the bottom of the seal. When I get into this I’ll do my best to document it.
2BD08128-E531-4563-BA4A-FD28008CE88D.jpeg
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the info, I may need this one day :good2:

Do you have the part number for the pack of two?
Kenny-

Here is the package with the part#. It was indeed the correct part for my 3520 steering cylinder ball joint.
5F262C0A-52A5-4659-A858-CB70B704BA45.jpeg
A09ADE95-0314-437D-83DA-A044F24D2D70.jpeg
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I may need it sooner rather than later!

Wouldn't mind seeing a video of the replacement process as well!! :)

Sent by Tapatalk using the tiny keyboard on my phone. That explains the typos!
Mark-
I replaced the grease seal for the ball joint on my 3520 today. I’m happy to report that it’s not very difficult to do. I’ll post a series of pics that step through what I did. Here’s the end result.
3520DAFD-8A29-4437-9E7C-0AF178867691.jpeg

Sorry it’s rotated 90° but the upload does it.
 
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Here’s the torn grease seal before the repair
E04D1CA5-F241-45F2-AAD3-50880F5511E1.jpeg
First step is to remove the cotter pin and the 1-1/16 castle nut. I had no procedure or torque spec for the castle nut so I noted how many threads were showing and marked the castle nut slot that aligned with the cotter pin hole. The castle nut is right hand thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Next step is to pop the tapered ball joint shaft out of the lower mount. This is done with a ball joint separator A.K.A. “Pickle Fork”. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for $10.
C14A6F7B-526A-46F0-9601-CDDC7BFB16F2.jpeg
Jam the Pickle Fork into the space where the damaged seal is and hit it with a 3 lb. sledge. It will take a few good whacks to pop the shaft out.
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Here’s the exposed/removed ball joint.
DC4C7137-CBF0-4178-AE9D-76DAF10E1D44.jpeg
The “Pickle Fork” and what’s left of the original seal are in the background.
After I got it out, I cleaned the whole thing with kerosene and a toothbrush.
 

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After I cleaned it up, I test fit the new seal.
29207148-783E-4AEF-AAD0-F0520ACD1B8E.jpeg
 

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Next I packed the underside of the joint and the new seal with grease.
6E30771C-A0DC-44C0-8BEF-5937C0E33EEA.jpeg
 

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Now slide the new seal into place and put the upper and lower retaining rings on.
AA37547E-47FA-4033-A9A4-8DD181B2A795.jpeg

The large retaining ring was the only tricky part for the whole job. I couldn’t figure out how you’re supposed to get the thing on. It is a 2 turn helix of spring steel. I found that stretching it out like a slinky was the trick. I gently stretched it. Hold one end into the grove and then wrap it around the seal lip. I carefully used a small flat blade screwdriver to help position the ring as I went around the seal. The small ring is simple, open it up a bit and pop it onto the bottom groove of the seal.
 
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Great write-up, thanks Chuck :good2:
 

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Now just drop the tapered shaft back into the lower, tighten the 1-1/16 castle nut and put in the cotter pin.
D5ADA09A-71DF-417B-A844-1CFFDF1F93BB.jpeg
I tightened it up to the mark I made on the castle nut and put in a new cotter pin. I hope this makes sense and helps somebody some day. I’ll be glad to clarify anything that doesn’t seem clear enough. Looks to me like this procedure will apply to both steering cylinder ball joints and the tie rod ball joints as well.
 

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THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting this!!

Sent by Tapatalk using the tiny keyboard on my phone. That explains the typos!
 
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