Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,343 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Since these blades are getting popular again now that they can be used on the new 2032/38R models, I thought I'd start a new thread for/about some helpful modifications and additions.

First up, adding a new urethane cutting edge and extension wings, I felt the blade was a bit narrow (66" wide) for my 3720, so I wanted to extend it 4" on each side. I had the urethane edge on my old #380 plow I modded to fit my old 4110, it was great! SOOO much quieter and still very effective. That thread was posted The urethane parts where purchased from Universal Urethane Products, the blade was 78" x 6" x 1" thick, and the wings 10" x 12" x 1".The longer 5/8"-11 x 3" plow bolts are from McMaster Carr, part # 90934A806

Remove the steel edge, and lay on the new one leaving 1-1/2" showing on the bottom. I also left 4" on each end since I was extending mine 8" total. The urethane material is cut easily with regular carbide tipped woodworking blades-slow and easy. Regular drill bits are used as well. Now you can drill the 5/8" or 3/4" holes about 1/2 way through, then remove the steel edge so you can lift the new edge off the floor to finish the holes:

drill cutting edge.jpg


Now you can do a test fit with the longer bolts, note you will now have to mount the steel edge upside down (another gripe: Why don't they put the holes in the middle so you can reverse it?):
IMG_5956.jpg



Once you know all the holes will line up, insert the wing behind the steel edge-it will clamp it tightly when the lower bolt are tightened. Bend in towards the blade the best you can, this stuff is super hard to bend (it's 90 durometer for the techies) and mark/drill the two 1/2" holes from the rear:

drill extension.jpg


Now remove the cutting edge, and mount the wings, the lower hole will be covers by the steel so you will need to use a 1/2" carriage bolt and suck it in so it's flush. Use regular 1/2" bolts on the top:

carraige bolt.jpg

extension bolted on.jpg

IMG_5971.jpg



Here is top view, I am going to leave the wings and cutting edge unsupported for now and see how it acts in the snow, I have a simple plan to support them should I need to but as I wrote above, this material is really stiff and hard to bend.

extension mocked up.jpg
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,343 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Next up, the Skid Shoes:
These series of blades (and previous models too) have an issue with the skid shoes, when the blade is straight up and down in normal use, the skids are angled forwards so only the front part is contacting the ground. The fix is quite simple, but does require a welder and some steel stock to complete properly.

(Sorry I do not have real-time shots of this mod, I seem to have lost them from when I did my old 380 blade)
First, mount the blade on the machine and have it resting on the floor so you know it's positioned correctly. Now cut the top part of the u-shaped bracket from the weld. Then you well be able bend the top part of the bracket away from the blade, thereby making the skid shoe level with the floor:

DSC09850 (Large).jpg



Now you can measure the space created (should be about 3/4") and cut a new piece of steel to fit and make the two welds:

DSC09849 (Large).jpg


I recently bought a used 366 blade and front 3PH to put on my 3720, I fully expected to have to make this mod, but I discovered that someone (probably the selling dealer) had already done so, that just proves how well known this issue is-whey it have not been rectified in 20 years is beyond me. Here is how it was done:

IMG_5967.jpg
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,343 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Last up for now, but I have a few more ideas in the works. It was 60* out today so hard to focus on a snow plow blade:laugh: If you have any mods you've made to your blade please post them up to this thread.


The little kick-stand/parking-stand they put on these new blades is really nice, except for the short pin they include to use it. You have to kneel down and reach under the frame (almost blindly) to remove the hairpin, then repeat to reinstall it. What a pain in the buttocks. I did notice though that the holes are on both sides of the frame, hmmm.
IMG_5984.jpg




So I found a long hitch pin at TSC, 5/8" x 5-3/4" usable length that would fit the bill perfectly, then I added a short piece of chain to the hairpin so as not to loose it so easily. Now you can remove and reinstall the pin without getting down on your knees.
IMG_5985.jpg

Hitch pin.jpg

IMG_5986.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,029 Posts
Hiya,

Here's the pin setup I use after living with the lynchpin and wingnut for the first few uses. I found that no matter how tight I put the wingnut, it would always get loose then the lynchpin would fall out. When that happened with the blower or broom nothing bad happened other than it getting floppy on the hitch, however with the blade, as it's under a heavy load when working, it bent the big bolt like a cheese stick. What happens is the supplied lynchpin is smaller than the hole in the bolt and A frame so it has a tendency to walk out because it allows lateral movement under use as you can't tighten it with your hand enough to lock everything in place. (after the first use I tried tightening the wingnut with channel locks, no use, they just gaff it up and it still falls apart after a short time)

Items to throw in your parts bin:
1) Cotter pin
2) Wingnut
3) Lynchpin

Items to go get:
1) Hex nut M16x2.00 (I believe but I'm going on memory here)
2) M16 lock and SAE flat washer (SAE washers are smaller in diameter and thicker than standard flat washers)
3) Square bail 3/8" PTO retainer pin (TSC is where I got mine)

So here's how to fix it so it will stay put.
1) First off, mount up the implement your going to use
2) Make sure it's centered on the A frame. (You don't want to use the bolt to draw the assembly together, this is important as if it isn't centered properly, the first time it encounters a load it will shift and center itself, then the bolt will be lose and you risk breaking parts)
3) Get your new stuff together, the washers and nut on the bolt and the PTO pin (assembled on the bolt in this order top down: nut, lock washer, SAE washer and thick rectangular plate)
4) Drop the bolt in from the top
5) Slip the pin through the middle hole in the bolt, clip the bail closed
6) Rotate the bolt so that the big end of the PTO pin is facing forward
7) Push the bolt up with one hand so that the PTO pin is centered in the scallop cut on the bottom of the A Frame channel the bolt goes through. (Make sure it's in both front and rear cutouts)
8) Hand tighten the nut so that there is a slight amount of tension on the pin
9) Push the pin as forward as possible so that the big end of the pin is up against the rear face of the implement part of the A frame hitch.
10) Tighten down the nut to a reasonable torque. (I use a standard 1/2" ratchet and snug it well, I figure it's about 30 Ft/Lbs. You have to remember that a 3/8" pin in sheer is holding this together, if you lean on the nut, you will bend or sheer the pin)
11) If you have a lock nut, lock it down. (I have found that it's not needed and the lock washer holds it well)
12) Stand back and admire your new setup that won't fall apart every 20 minutes like the original one does.

OK, picture time.
First we show the pin in the proper place. Notice it's orientation, the large head up against the implement plate and centered in the scallop cuts.
a frame bolt bottom.JPG

Second, we see the top side with the nut, lock and SAE washers on place.
a frame bolt top.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: jgayman and Kennyd

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,343 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Great post Tom, thanks! I will be doing that to mine next time I get it mounted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Hiya,

Here's the pin setup I use after living with the lynchpin and wingnut for the first few uses. I found that no matter how tight I put the wingnut, it would always get loose then the lynchpin would fall out. When that happened with the blower or broom nothing bad happened other than it getting floppy on the hitch, however with the blade, as it's under a heavy load when working, it bent the big bolt like a cheese stick. What happens is the supplied lynchpin is smaller than the hole in the bolt and A frame so it has a tendency to walk out because it allows lateral movement under use as you can't tighten it with your hand enough to lock everything in place. (after the first use I tried tightening the wingnut with channel locks, no use, they just gaff it up and it still falls apart after a short time)

Items to throw in your parts bin:
1) Cotter pin
2) Wingnut
3) Lynchpin

Items to go get:
1) Hex nut M16x2.00 (I believe but I'm going on memory here)
2) M16 lock and SAE flat washer (SAE washers are smaller in diameter and thicker than standard flat washers)
3) Square bail 3/8" PTO retainer pin (TSC is where I got mine)

So here's how to fix it so it will stay put.
1) First off, mount up the implement your going to use
2) Make sure it's centered on the A frame. (You don't want to use the bolt to draw the assembly together, this is important as if it isn't centered properly, the first time it encounters a load it will shift and center itself, then the bolt will be lose and you risk breaking parts)
3) Get your new stuff together, the washers and nut on the bolt and the PTO pin (assembled on the bolt in this order top down: nut, lock washer, SAE washer and thick rectangular plate)
4) Drop the bolt in from the top
5) Slip the pin through the middle hole in the bolt, clip the bail closed
6) Rotate the bolt so that the big end of the PTO pin is facing forward
7) Push the bolt up with one hand so that the PTO pin is centered in the scallop cut on the bottom of the A Frame channel the bolt goes through. (Make sure it's in both front and rear cutouts)
8) Hand tighten the nut so that there is a slight amount of tension on the pin
9) Push the pin as forward as possible so that the big end of the pin is up against the rear face of the implement part of the A frame hitch.
10) Tighten down the nut to a reasonable torque. (I use a standard 1/2" ratchet and snug it well, I figure it's about 30 Ft/Lbs. You have to remember that a 3/8" pin in sheer is holding this together, if you lean on the nut, you will bend or sheer the pin)
11) If you have a lock nut, lock it down. (I have found that it's not needed and the lock washer holds it well)
12) Stand back and admire your new setup that won't fall apart every 20 minutes like the original one does.

OK, picture time.
First we show the pin in the proper place. Notice it's orientation, the large head up against the implement plate and centered in the scallop cuts.
View attachment 516138

Second, we see the top side with the nut, lock and SAE washers on place.
View attachment 516146
I just came across this thread. I agree with you about the wingnut.
I ended up getting a KIPP tension lever. I feel I can get good torque on the pin without having to tighten that wingnut. It also is ratcheting by pulling upward and moving to a different notch.
I also use a lock washer like you do. I am attaching a few pictures.
 

Attachments

1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top