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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some of you know that middle of last year, I bought a 1026R and then traded up for a cabbed 3720 with the 300cx loader. Got a 4n1 bucket and the 42" pallet forks for it. Planning on having a small hobby farm with a few head of cattle, etc.

Love the tractor but I may have an issue and want your opinions from other owners.

1. When I had the 1026R, the thing was a little beast. It would easily lift the front of the tractor off the ground with the bucket when I was doing things like back dragging the bucket, etc. My 3720 will not lift the tractor off the ground unless I drop the bucket and then curl down on the bucket. It seems weak and I do need to back drag on my driveway from time to time to smooth out spots.

2. Went to the local Lowes and got a pallet of concrete 42 x80lb bags for some fencing and yard projects, and had them split the load into 2 pallets. When I got home to unload the pallets, the tractor wouldn't lift either pallet. Again, I have to curl the bucket back and then pull it back off the other pallet. Total load on either pallet couldn't have been more than 1700lbs. I am sure have seen guys on here talking that they use their 3x20' to lift much more than that but want to verify before I call the dealer. I just feel that the loader is weak on it, but other than that I love the tractor.

The only other issue I have with it is that the 375 backhoe swings wild and needs some kind of restrictor on the left,right movement. If you barely touch it, it's like watching kung-fu it moves so fast. Hard to control compared to the backhoe I had on the 1026R or the ditch witch I had.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I had 2 3720's, a cabbed and open station.

Both would lift the front of the tractor off the ground without using the curl, but the loader did not go down that far, so only a few inches before the cylinder bottomed out with no more travel.

These loaders are speced as to what they lift at the pins. The farther out from the pins, the less it can lift. So with the weight out a long way on your pallet makes it harder for the loader to lift.
 

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2. Went to the local Lowes and got a pallet of concrete 42 x80lb bags for some fencing and yard projects, and had them split the load into 2 pallets. When I got home to unload the pallets, the tractor wouldn't lift either pallet. Again, I have to curl the bucket back and then pull it back off the other pallet. Total load on either pallet couldn't have been more than 1700lbs.
Here are the specs for the 300CX with the 3x20 series I just took from the latest brochure:

Lift capacity at pivot pin (Max Ht) 1,598 lb
Lift capacity at 500 mm ahead of pivot pin (Max Ht) 1,122 lb
Lift capacity to 59" at pivot pin 2,125 lb
Lift capacity to 59" at 500 mm ahead of pivot pin 1,649 lb


The brochure states the following:

Lift capacities, pivot pin vs 500 mm ahead: The lift capacity at pivot pin is a gross measure of loader lifting ability. The lift capacity 500 mm ahead of pivot point is often the better measure of working lift capacity.


Breakout force at pivot pin 3,327 lb
breakout force at 500 mm 2,418 lb

The total weight of bags was 3,360 apart from the pallets. Split is 1,680 which matches your 1,700 lb if we give each pallet 20 lb but I am guessing that they might have been a little more especially if they were hard wood pallets. At a little less than 5' of height at the pivot pin it should have been able to lift 2,125 and at 500 mm out or 19.7" from the pivot it can lift 1,649 lb. If we take the statement out of the JD brochure and what it says about lift capacity then this is more the realistic number. There is the weight of the pallet fork to consider in the equation as well. I am not sure what that weight is. Could it be 200 lbs? if so this could be the reason it was doing all it could do. It also makes sense that you could curl it since there is a lever in its design that is working so that you get more leverage. I don't know, but my guess is that you were right on the limits of the loader. Maybe others can chime in here who are more experienced than me.

1. When I had the 1026R, the thing was a little beast. It would easily lift the front of the tractor off the ground with the bucket when I was doing things like back dragging the bucket, etc. My 3720 will not lift the tractor off the ground unless I drop the bucket and then curl down on the bucket. It seems weak and I do need to back drag on my driveway from time to time to smooth out spots.
On this point I would guess the 1026 is much less weight. I have a 300CX on my 990 and it is hard unless I am on the right pitch of the ground to lift the front end up without using the pivot. Again I am not experienced with the 1026R nor the 3x20 series. I am sure others will comment.
 

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Doesnt sound right. My 3320 easily lifts the front right up. Its a very strong machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, I did check out the info on the manual and this was being lifted at 18" off the ground, so it seemed based on the 59" lift capacity that it should have just picked it up and ran with it. The pallets are not 4' size either, they are stacked on 36" pallets so there should be 1/3rd of the load past the 24" measurement. I'm happy that I can at least move them around without doing it by hand.:good2:

When I try to lift it or curl it does sound like a click or something in the back of the tractor that is repeated. If I try to lift sometimes I hear 2 clicks back there or 3 depending on throttle. This tractor is outfitted with the 3rd function and 4th and 5th function valves as well. So I have diverter valves that may be blocking some of the flow. I remember someone that had a 3x20 series that I think was cabbed that was moving like 2200lbs worth of shingles or something with his forks. That is why I was surprised that the concrete was causing it so much work.

I will try to rig up a gauge and see what it says. Then I will know for sure. If I find that it is low, is there a place that I can adjust that or just take it to the dealer?

Also, any thoughts on the backhoe swinging wildly?
 

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Also, any thoughts on the backhoe swinging wildly?
What RPM are you running the tractor at? Maybe idling down a bit would help.
You could put flow restrictors in at the cylinders, but since you have a lever operated valve, I would just "train" myself to feather the valve more carefully. Then you would have full flow when you needed it. Maybe it's too touchy for that??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Even close to idle it is still to jerky. I'll set up tomorrow and take a vid and show you what I'm talking about. This thing doesn't feather well really, the loader especially. But the Backhoe seems to throw the valve open with the slightest movement in any direction. The Dipper controls are smooth and work well, but the problem is on the position side.
 

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There is definitely something not right with your setup. I have had a 3520 and now have a 3720 cab. I can lift the tractor off the ground without curling the bucket with ease. I have also lifted pallets with both machines close to 2,000 pounds. This is my main machine for lifting pallets on/off of a truck.
 

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You should not hear any "clicking" if just operating the joystick, if you are-then I would think some of the flow is getting diverted and causing your problems.
 

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There is definitely something not right with your setup. I have had a 3520 and now have a 3720 cab. I can lift the tractor off the ground without curling the bucket with ease. I have also lifted pallets with both machines close to 2,000 pounds. This is my main machine for lifting pallets on/off of a truck.
X 2. Mine works great. I did find a new way to reach the top of my trailer today. It needed a waxing.:fed:

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