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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,
So if you notice my other posts I’m looking to use my new CTC FEL

I shimmer and installed the THRV

I bought the HH weight bracket for the 3PH and the iMatch too and 8 weights

While my x758 came from factory with the 3PH I took off the arms when it arrived as I actually bought it from someone else and never used it myself and took the arms off.

The problem I’m having is the 3PH arms are raised and don’t appear to go down more than a half inch, what’s wrong?

Do I need to adjust something?

I have the valve shut off under the hydraulic lines, this too was from factory, to divert the hydraulics to the back ‘for now’. No change. It’s like it tries to lower and stops.
I have the click-n-go mounts but not the weight bracket, so I don’t think that affects anything as I saw another YouTube of a guy with one and the only time you can’t do both is when the click n go weight bracket is on you can’t add the arms obviously

Can someone help? No idea what’s wrong and the Deere manual is terrible, what’s new

I’m looking to drop the arms load up with my weight bracket pick it up, then shut off the valve to the back to then add my FEL

Any advice?
 

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Look on the back of the machine you should see something that looks like a threaded rod with a spring pin through it. That is the adjustment for the lower limit for the 3pt hitch. Raise it up all the way and start turning the threaded rod, a lot, and then try and lower it. I can never remember which direction I need to move it.
 

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I keep saying I am going to order one of these for my cordless drill to make the process easier.

https://www.amazon.com/BAL-R-V-Products-Group-21100003/dp/B01966ASEG

Basically I do what you are talking about and raise the 3pt and spin it one way to lock it all the way up when using it for ballast (99.99% of the time). When I need to take it off, I raise it all the way up and spin that lower limit threaded rod the other way a bunch of times to the arms drop almost all the way to the ground. Then I clip on the HH cart and set it down and flip the levers on the quick hitch. Then I can go pick up my box grader or whatever else I am using.

There are a lot of turns to adjust this because it gives you pretty fine control over how far the 3 pt will go down. Maybe you are running a rear tiller and only want a certain depth. This is how you would dial it in. The thing that sucks is it is hard to have repeatability if you need these limited depth stops as there is no indication on where the stop is. You have to raise it up, turn it a few times and lower it down and measure.

For me the separate 3pt control is a big reason I want to go to a bigger machine. You can have it on the 1 Series just not on the X. Though there are some people that have done H3 conversions where they add a joystick and have a separate control for the rockshaft hydraulic cylinder. I have considered it but keep leaning toward a newer machine once my Z950R is paid off.
 

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This is a different machine but the location is about the same.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/jd-3-point-hitch.JPG

Look at the photo near the left rear tire. You can see what looks like a rod with a pin through it. You should have a threaded rod with a pin through it just like that on your machine. It might be all black though where this one stands out a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Do you use your loader with the 3PH raised like this? In which case I can just manually load it this time

I’ll try that thread on the left though,
Is it this thing? It is friggin wedged tight how is anyone meant to adjust that

Thanks so much for the help guys
 

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Do you use your loader with the 3PH raised like this? In which case I can just manually load it this time

I’ll try that thread on the left though,
Is it this thing? It is friggin wedged tight how is anyone meant to adjust that

Thanks so much for the help guys
Yes that is it.

It is a pain to adjust which is why I posted the link of the socket thing that some people use. Others had an old socket and used a grinder to cut slots in it to make their own.

It likely hasn't seen much adjustment so it will be stiff. Some penetrating oil can help and I lube mine from time to time.

Keep in mind even with the front lockout when you do your dump/curl function on the FEL the 3pt will still go up/down a little. It just moves really slow. The only way to fully lock it out is to raise the 3pt like yours is now, and turn that lower limit stop all the way to the up position. It will still move about an inch but it is better to have it up out of the way when trying to do work.

The only thing I do differently is I normally extend my top link bar so it isn't tilted so close to the back of the seat. Mine is normally a bit more straight up and down.

I don't have a great photo but something like this. I had gotten a load of mulch in these shots so I was spreading that around.



 

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Oh and yes, I have manually loaded it rather than mess with the lower limit.

Many times if the rear weights are off, they are on my Z950R but I still have the 3pt, Quick Hitch and HH still on there just without suitcase weights. In the winter sometimes I completely take off the 3pt. I think I mentioned this to you in the past but here is a tip I found out.

That Heavy Hitch cart is nice in that you can clip it on. Leave all the weights on there then pull the pins on the 3pt arms where they attach to the tractor. Then wheel the entire thing off as an assembly. The car will hold the HH, Quick Hitch (iMatch in your case), 3pt arms and all weights just fine. Since it is on wheels you can just wheel it out of the way into storage and then wheel it back when you need it again. When hooking it up I attach the side arms first then adjust the 3pt up/down until I can connect that top link in the middle. Then lift the entire thing up and pull the cart. Of course this means you are adjusting that lower limit. Nothing gets lost this way and it makes it easier (for me anyhow) to put the 3pt arms on or take them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So should I keep it locked where it is while I at least use my FEL?

Or should the ballast be lower for the FEL use and not so high up?
 

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So should I keep it locked where it is while I at least use my FEL?
You don't have to but I would recommend it. If you don't lock it in the up position it will go up/down with your dump/curl function.

Here is an example of a time when you won't want to lock the 3pt all the way up. I was doing mixed FEL work with my box grader. This is the only time I do FEL work and allow the 3pt to go up and down.

I know, I know I was doing work with the mower deck on... :nunu: As mentioned before I haven't had the mower deck on in 3 years now.

 

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Eire, Your 3-pt may be in the lowered position, applying pressure to the stop and making it difficult, if not impossible, to adjust. Raise 3-pt, just a little and try to turn. Bob
 

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Eire, Your 3-pt may be in the lowered position, applying pressure to the stop and making it difficult, if not impossible, to adjust. Raise 3-pt, just a little and try to turn. Bob
Good point. Like with the mower deck, all adjustments to the lower limit should be done with the 3pt all the way up. If it is sitting on the lower limit, it will be even harder to turn that threaded rod. However they can be hard to turn anyhow if not adjusted for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
For now, just to get on to working for the day with the FEL does it make sense just for now anyways to leave in the locked up position with the ballast and HH/iMatch and suitcase weights on???
 

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For now, just to get on to working for the day with the FEL does it make sense just for now anyways to leave in the locked up position with the ballast and HH/iMatch and suitcase weights on???
Yes

I guess just saying yes is too short. So I had to type more words...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For now, just to get on to working for the day with the FEL does it make sense just for now anyways to leave in the locked up position with the ballast and HH/iMatch and suitcase weights on???
Yes

I guess just saying yes is too short. So I had to type more words...
Sorry man. I just don’t want to screw something up and when you hear yes but xyz...I’m just confused this is all new to me
Thanks for the help
 

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Sorry man. I just don’t want to screw something up and when you hear yes but xyz...I’m just confused this is all new to me
Thanks for the help
It was new to me at one point in time as well. Others helped me back in the day and now I pass that on. :good2:

I just replied to your PM with help on mounting and dismounting it. Once you do this a few times it only gets easier.

I remember when I first got my machine I didn't even know how to connect or disconnect the shaft for the front blower.

Now that I know my way around the machine this is my way of doing spring cleaning. Manual, I don't need no stinking manual I have it in my head.



The first time I did this the kids were like, Dad, you got us a go cart. No son, it is the tractor.. It doesn't look like the tractor...
 

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I have the same set-up on my 322. No 3-pt, but it's also my mover height stop. Now, if ya'll have to constantly adjust the stop, here's a "helpful hint":

Screw the stop in nearly all the way so you don't bend the screw in this next step.
Drive the split pin out and install a nut...5/8-11 I believe... onto the screw.
Two ways to do the nut thing:
1. Install a castle nut with slots towards tractor and then a #10 screw & nut. Tighten nut, place correct size socket & ratchet on nut, and that's it, adjust away!
2. Drill a standard hex nut 1/2 way thru with a 1/4" drill. Install onto screw until hole in nut lines up with hole in shaft. 1/4" drill thru the other side of the nut and install split pin...may need to be ground flush.

I've gone 1 step further! I've got an adapter to drive 1/2" drive sockets with my cordless drill. Set direction, squeeze trigger, done!

I hate wearing gloves and I found turning that split pin is really tuff on the fingers...and very quickly too! Whether wrench, ratchet, or drill, this is so, so, SOO much faster, easier, and less painful! Bob
 
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