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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not wanting to highjack the other thread with a similar name, but wanted to take it one step further. This certainly applies to The 3R series, but i am sure it can be applied to most of the newer tractors.
I'm going to do this in 3 parts, Define what you want to add, and why will be part 1. Choosing the right parts to accomplish your goals will be Part 2. And what to expect after you spent your hard earned money and did you really get what you wanted will Part 3.

Part 1
My tractor is a 2020 3033r, hydrostatic, with a loader, a John Deere AV20 grapple, an MX5 rotary cutter, and a never been installed a RB2172 rear Blade a 3H 3rd SCV that was on it when i got and appeared to be a factory install and an I Match.
I need to maintain a long driveway, about 2500 feet, gravel, fairly new, was in excellent condition when we moved in about 6 months ago.
I wanted something to help me maintain the driveway. Have the rear blade, and plan to use it to bring back the rocks from the side and maybe cut a small ditch to help water drain. I bought the RB2172 because it can be offset, rotated and tilted. Didn't realize when i got it that it only had 3 options to tilt. Wanted to buy a land plane, got one actually with scarifiers so wanted to be able to rotate it to dig deeper or back to smooth out.
So that's what i wanted. Knew i need more hydraulic options. More connections. I did not understand hydraulics at all and still just have enough knowledge to get me into trouble.
I wanted to buy whatever parts i needed and do a clean install myself.
So my first thought is to buy your tractor and implements carefully. This forum has been a bonanza of knowledge for me. There so many great vendors on here that give excellent advice. There are dozens of ways to accomplish what you want..choose wisely.
I sat down and my list was pretty easy to make...
1. I wanted to use a Top and Tilt kit without having to get off the tractor and move hoses around. Every time i unplug a hose i get a little hydraulic fluid on me and i hate the feel of it. I'm too old to adjust the draft arms and top link manually, somedays its all i can do to just get on the tractor.
2. I love my grapple (it stays on the tractor all the time), and i love being able to operate from the button on the joystick. But sometimes i just have a hard time knowing open from closed and then sometimes the grapple slows down or jerks if i am moving the grapple up or down or tilting it. So not sure if i want more buttons...too many thing to think about, I need plain and simple, something i can't forget.
3. I was open to all suggestions but really wanted to stay as close to factory parts as possible. (This is the be careful what you wish for thing.) My thought was if i bought the factory kits, everything would be in the kit and it would slide together as smooth as butter....Everything would be in the kit, no trips to anywhere or online to get something i forgot.

That's it something simple to operate and INSTALL. Something that would allow me to do everything without getting off the tractor. Something that looked like it came from the factory and something where one function would not interfere with another.

Stay tuned for Part 2 where we discuss the options to accomplish the goals...and some of the surprising things i found out about the "One box has everything you need part"

Premium Member
8,651 Posts
Tuned in for part 2

2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Part 2A
The choices:
Almost endless. After market third function kits, diverters manual and electric, multipliers, sorta like a diverter but more, John Deere power beyond, Electro Hydraulic 3rd SCV, Diverters and 4th and 5th SCV kits.
The cheapest diverter kits can run $350 and up with multipliers going to $650 and up depending how many sets of functions you want to add.
John Deere kits of all kinds start around $1000 and go upwards easily to over $1700.
With most of these kits you have to start with something, meaning you have to have the most basic kind of Additional (over and above your loader functions, if you have one) control valve (SCV)

If you don't have an EH 3rd SCV, You need to add that first.


Chances are your 3R came with one of these.
Part # BLV10500, runs about $1000. ++ Installation.

From Summit Hydraulics you can add a universal 3rd Function valve kit for about $450. Just remember if you add one of these or a similar kit from any vendor you will still have to plumb hydraulic lines from the tractor to the valve.

Either one of these gets you started in the hydraulics race and will have two connectors and an electric switch to control the operation of a function (Grapple, top link, tilt link or any other single function)

You can use either of these for multiple functions but you will have to change the hoses at the quick connection of these Electronic Control Valves. Thus if you have a hydraulic top link and a tilt cylinder, can control one at a time with a hose swap every time you eat to change to a new function.

Next up is a Diverter valve, commonly electrically controlled, by you can find some manual diverter valves although i can't really understand why.
Ken's bolt on Hooks has a real nice kit for 3R Tractors. Its run around $325. Summit hydraulic, Artillian and many others make all shapes and sizes. Some are designed to be mounted on or around the loader, but they all be mounted just about anywhere depending on you level of mechanics. Most of them come with fittings if you like, but few offer hoses as part of the deal.

The Basic diverter with double your capabilities with hose connections. Instead of the one set that comes with the 3 function valve, you will now have 2 sets of connections. You can control two functions, but NOT simultaneously. Although some say you can control two or more functions at the same time, depending how the wire is done.
So since i wanted to have my grapple always at the ready and have the top and tilt kit with each of those functions requiring on SET (2) hose. I could have the top and tilt connection to the diverter but the grapple hoses would be disconnected laying on the rear somewhere. I could switch the out but that would deviate from my Want list in Part 1.

Some Diverter are also multipliers or you can just actually hook multiple diverters up in a chain if you will to have more connections available. Prices on these multiplier diverters can reach or exceed $650 plus hoses. While that would give me the capability to have all my hoses connected at on time (Grapple, top and tilt) it seemed to complex for me to remember which function was on each switch and i was concerned that the control on each function may not be precise.

The John Deere way.
Ah yes the money shot.
Deere goes about this a little differently. While you could just keep adding more EH 3rd function valves it would get way too expensive wayyy to fast.

So you can add more Function by adding a Deere kit for the 4th and 5th SCV's
This is one kit from JD


It was referred to in another post as Part #BLV10839. The kit in this picture is fact not BLV10839, but it is BLV 10761.
The two kits are almost identical. Same spool Valve, same metal lines and most of the misc parts are the same. There is one MAJOR difference. The bracket to mount to the tractor is different. Easiest way to tell the difference is the curved guard around the rear lights is in the BLV10761. While the BLV 10839 will work, there will be a problem when you go to mount the bracket and the light... Price on either of these kits is $900-1000, and it should come with EVERYTHING you need to mount it and begin using in that 'one' box.
This kit gives you two levers to operate two functions without affecting any of the other functions on the tractor. At least in theory.

Deere also offers a diverter kit which gives you the extra connectors in this location.


This kit,BLV 10983 priced around $1600, uses the spool valve that normally operates the loader (the joy stick), and allows you redirect commands on the joystick from the loader to whatever function you have created plugins in to the 4 connection that are mounted to the black bracket in the picture. so you operate the switch to change the functions from the loader to whatever, this appealed to me as well by not have to get off the tractor and swap hoses around.

And this is basically the choices you have. Don't make decisions on the part numbers here contact whomever you are buying the parts from to get the proper parts the first time.

Part 2B Which did i choose coming later.


14 Posts
So where is part 2B?

I'm in this same boat, same tractor, but with the complication of having a cab and a backhoe. Just got the 3rd function after allot of trouble when they finally figured out I had some different type of PB Kit installed. They cut me some slack but that replacement wasn't cheap. I have the old one in a box and the "new" one looks just like all thee pictures I see now. Much tidier with a smaller foot print, and a better top link hook. Very happy with it. Good thing, add the cost of the JD EH 3rd SCV at, like you mentioned, approaching $1700, plus labor,,,,, and I'm feeling a little but hurt after all of it.

And still, I want more. I want TnT. So really interested in which direction you went. You did a great run down, I wish I had this 2 years ago.

For those of you with cabs:

The BLV 10761 won't work with the cab of course, because you need to be able to reach the value control handles and they don't pass through the glass well.

To my great sadness, I do believe the BLV 10983, the joystick diverter one, would interfere with the backhoe I'm told (or read somewhere). Please someone, Ken, correct me if I am wrong. It's not easily removed for BH use either.

After all I've spent, I'd still be willing to pay that JD price to have that functionality for a TnT and/or articulating frail mower. That's the best value control on the tractor in your hand there, so it's going to cost you to use it.

Right now I see my only choice as:

1 cab) Bolt on Hooks 3R UDVK 3rd SCV Diverter Kit for 3033R / 3039R / 3046R Cab Tractors. Looks nice and tight in there. I forgo the TnT for a single hydraulic top line. FEL grip switch is either grapple or top link. For frail mower, I'd have to disconnect grapple and top link. Also has to be removed for backhoe, but pretty easily done, and I only use the BH 2-3 times a year. I can live with this. Almost a perfect tractor! (It could be that a TnT is not a option that can be used with a BH. As it is, the top-link has to be removed to install the BH, I would guess the tilt cylinder would to)

2 cab) Summit has a new "Electric Rear Remote Valve Kit for Compact Tractors (Two Spool, Three Spool, Four Spool)". Looks interesting. Plugs in-line with your PB port seamlessly. Controls are not integrated well, and its made for an open cab only, but it operates independently of anything else. It's large, and needs to be mounted high on the tractor to not be in the way of the 3-point. I would have to stick with the 2 port because of size and try to tuck it into the same spot as the Bolt on Hooks diverter, create some custom bracket, hope I can remove it easily, and the hoses that come with it likely not work because of positioning. I'm not sure I could pull this off and not have some interference issues somewhere, there is only so much space back there. The back window opens so NOTHING goes above a certain line.

Right now, I'm headed down path 1. I see how a TnT might not be BH friendly anyway. Although path 2 is really temping with two new independent 4th and 5th functions.

Are there other reasonable alternatives? Advice? At this point in my life, I'd rather spend more and have less hassles and better functionality.

Sorry, I didn't mean to hijack your thread. Hopefully this adds to it for those with a cab and/or backhoe. I'd love to hear that you found another way! Please!
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