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I just came in from clearing my driveway again (Erie, PA:banghead:) and noticed I am already starting to wear my bucket. I have been weighing the options of which snow removal implement would be best. I have narrowed it down to either a 6 foot snow pusher or a power angle plow. The main question I have is how wide of a plow should I be looking for? I haven't had any issue this week with my 6 foot bucket pushing 2-3 feet of snow the length of my driveway so could I get away with a 7 foot plow or should I keep it around 6 foot? My tractor is a 3033R with R4 tires.
 

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Some may say the 84" is fine, but I would suggest the 72", less chance of the blade pushing the tractor around when loaded.
 

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I think you could probably get away with either of them. If you are doing more stacking than plowing then I'd stick with the 6'. If you do go with the 7', keep in mind, even if you go with a 7' plow, you don't HAVE to take a full bite. You can always back off and sweep half the blade.
 

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Remember that when angled you lose width. What kind of plowing are you doing? Long staright drieways I would get an 84" as its casting off to the side anyways. If you are doing a lot of cleanup then I would get a 72", less likely to wack something.

Actually since you have a 72" bucket I'd use that for close quarters cleanup and the 84" for the rest. It shouldn't push the tractor around too much unless you are trying to bust thru large drifts.
 

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Well thanks for the help. I just worked out a deal with a guy I work with for a 7.5 foot meyers plow that I will need to adapt to my JDQA (just ordered some plates for $99) for $250. The frame is freshly shot blasted and painted. The moldboard is nicely powder coated and will need skinned. I will need to get a sheet of something (either stainless or mild steel), a new set of shoes ($50), if needed angle cylinders ($150), and hoses ($100?) to run from my rear remotes. Hoping to be in this for $6-700. If it turns out to be too wide, I can cut some width off down the line.
 

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Well thanks for the help. I just worked out a deal with a guy I work with for a 7.5 foot meyers plow that I will need to adapt to my JDQA (just ordered some plates for $99) for $250. The frame is freshly shot blasted and painted. The moldboard is nicely powder coated and will need skinned. I will need to get a sheet of something (either stainless or mild steel), a new set of shoes ($50), if needed angle cylinders ($150), and hoses ($100?) to run from my rear remotes. Hoping to be in this for $6-700. If it turns out to be too wide, I can cut some width off down the line.
I use the 84 inch AF-11 on my 4052R loader and I can sometimes get pushed around with it. For my purposes(1/4 mile gravel driveway) it’s been awesome. I just can’t always plow with it in float if it’s super slippery.

Good luck with the plow and with the never-ending lake effect!
 

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Hiya,

I'm late to the thread but I would still recommend a snow push over a loader plow every time. I had a loader plow, I sold it to someone that quickly sold it to someone else. I see it on CL every year or 2. Loader plows are an idea that works well on paper and not so well in the real world. There is a reason you see snow pushers in every parking lot, they work very well and are a lot faster than a plow, blower or bucket.
 
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Bluebandit,
We don't get much snow here in Central Illinois, or at least we haven't for the last several years, so I'm not sure how valuable my experience is, but I have been using a loader-mounted 7.5 foot Meyer truck plow for the last couple of years. Here is a link to some photos of my setup: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/large-frame-compact-utility-tractors-lcut/144770-using-rear-selective-control-valve-operate-3rd-front-end-loader-function-3320-300x.html#post2490898
I was fortunate to find a used plow that included the angle cylinders and part of the framework. I had a local weldshop fabricate the adapter plate that you see mounted to the tractor in the photos. To save weight, I removed the very heavy cutting edge that came with the plow and tack welded a 2" diameter piece of conduit to the blade after I cut a slit with an angle grinder. It seems to do a good job of pushing snow without picking up the gravel. It's a long, fairly flat drive, so it's not a very demanding situation.

Ken
 

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Hiya,

I'm late to the thread but I would still recommend a snow push over a loader plow every time. I had a loader plow, I sold it to someone that quickly sold it to someone else. I see it on CL every year or 2. Loader plows are an idea that works well on paper and not so well in the real world. There is a reason you see snow pushers in every parking lot, they work very well and are a lot faster than a plow, blower or bucket.
With all due respect, I couldn't disagree more with this. A loader plow is all I will use after years of experience with various attachments. A snow pusher is only good for straight lines, such as parking lots and open spaces. Forget about curved driveways, no steering control.

My loader plow will take any conditions, be it a light dusting, ice, or a heavy storm. I can stack snow up high, no problem. As winter progresses, it's a simple switch to the bucket to manage excess build up when needed, which is usually one of two times at most.
 

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With all due respect, I couldn't disagree more with this. A loader plow is all I will use after years of experience with various attachments. A snow pusher is only good for straight lines, such as parking lots and open spaces. Forget about curved driveways, no steering control.

My loader plow will take any conditions, be it a light dusting, ice, or a heavy storm. I can stack snow up high, no problem. As winter progresses, it's a simple switch to the bucket to manage excess build up when needed, which is usually one of two times at most.
I agree wholeheartedly with Chris here, I’ve been using a loader plow (HLA 1000 60”) on my 2032r since 2013 or so and there is no faster, better, more accurate and useful way to clear my open spaces and 700’ of curving drive than a plow. I just cleared 12” yesterday and then pushed back all my drifts/edges/piles in about 2 hours.
 
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It all depends on the task. As said a snow push would not be very good on a long driveway but for contractors doing long straight pushes such as parking lots its a must have. Most of us have smaller areas and can get by with a bucket for the same purpose but having a good blade if you have a long driveway is a must have. I also use a box blade for pulling snow away from the shop and house.
 
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Well thanks for the help. I just worked out a deal with a guy I work with for a 7.5 foot meyers plow that I will need to adapt to my JDQA (just ordered some plates for $99) for $250. The frame is freshly shot blasted and painted. The moldboard is nicely powder coated and will need skinned. I will need to get a sheet of something (either stainless or mild steel), a new set of shoes ($50), if needed angle cylinders ($150), and hoses ($100?) to run from my rear remotes. Hoping to be in this for $6-700. If it turns out to be too wide, I can cut some width off down the line.
Post some pics of the build and where did you get the JDQA plates from?
 
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Post some pics of the build and where did you get the JDQA plates from?
You can buy blank plates from Artillian, not sure where he's getting his.
 

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I made a 7’ one for my 790. Works real well and am real happy with it, I do a lot of plowing when we get snow. If I could have found one at the time I would probably gone with a 6’ or 6.5. Heavy wet snow tends to push the front around a bit, but I do chain up all fours when needed. I bought an old western plow off cl and made the quick coupling myself out of heavy angle iron. Real happy with it. As someone said don’t have to use the whole plow if it to heavy, take smaller portions. Just my 2 cents.
 

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