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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody. This exact topic may have been previously posted but if it has I'm sorry to reinvent the wheel. I also apologize for the length of the post, I thought the background might be in order.

I own a 4066M that's has a substantial modification. I picked up a Curtis cab from them on clearance. The cab was made for the "R" series. The ONLY difference I could find that would impact my cab installation was the location of the loader joystick. (mounted on the upper right frame of the D170 loader) My dealer told me there was not a kit that would relocate those controls. Since the controls are mounted next to the driver seat on the ”R" series H180 loader I kept looking. I finally found the kit and ordered it. I'm not much of a mechanical guy so I had everything delivered to Linhard's automotive in Cockeysville, MD and left town. I was going to be away for several weeks and they were going to work on it as time permitted as this was their not so busy time.

Well I came home and found that my tractor was exactly what I wanted. The hydraulics for the loader had all been properly installed. The front and rear cameras with monitor had been installed. The fan, auxillary lights and required switch box had been installed as well.

Fast forward 4 months and now I thought I wanted a rock bucket then decided what I REALLY need is a grapple bucket. A "grid" bottom grapple bucket will allow me to pick up some big rock filled dirt, shake a bit of dirt out and keep the rocks. Also the grapple bucket has more uses down the line than a rock bucket. (I need the rocks now for a gabion box wall I need to build to control some erosion. All the rocks found during other projects have been dumped in one area and covered) That means I need front hydraulics. The first question that needed answering was full time or diverter. The more I thought about it the more I believe diverter is best for me. It'll be better for me not to try doing 3 things at the same time. I've seen a bunch of places including my almost (30 miles) neighbor Kennyd from Bolt on hooks sells diverter valves for 1, 2 & 3 series but nothing big enough for my 4066H (it's no longer an M and it's not an R do it must be a hybrid) I've seen a few different things on the interweb but I'm really not sure what I'm looking at. Right now I'm leaning toward Summit hydraulics but I couldn't tell you why....

I THINK this is something I can hook up myself with some help from the folks on GTT. ANY help or opinions are appreciated. The pictures aren't the best but I had to include the one with my GSD.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Kennyd, here are the pics you requested, unfortunately the way the unit is tucked in I would need to do a major disassembly to get a picture from any angle other than from below. My big question, what are those cylinders on the bottom, they're a little bigger and longer than a "C" cell battery? There is soooo much about this that I don't know that I don't know what I should be asking. There aren't any "tractor people" living nearby that I know to seek help from. 12 houses on my street and I think I'm the only one that owns a lawnmower and I have 3, the big Deere, my "baby" Deere - a 455 with mower, blower and blade and my primary grass cutter a Z930M.
 

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The "cylinders" contain the centering springs and detent balls for the float mode.

Looks like they did a nice job!

That's what the forum is for, to ask questions and help others when you can:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, correct me if I'm wrong. I buy a diverter kit.

Diverter gets "mounted" somewhere past the 4 factory couplings.

The lines to the dump and curl get to supply the diverter. Outlet 1 from the diverter gets plumbed into dump/curl lines. Outlet 2 gets lines mounted to the center crossbar on the loader frame.

Electric momentary switch gets mounted to joystick below knob unless kit comes with a joystick. Switch gets power from battery or other live circuit. Switch also has cable which wires to diverter valve to shut off outlet 1 and diverting hydraulic flow to outlet 2.

Job compete, go play?

What kind and size fittings? What size (diameter and pressure - length will vary based on mount location) hydraulic lines do I need? (3 sets, 1 from factory outlet to diverter, 1 from diverter back to dump/curl and 1 from diverter to the crossbar) Where do I get a decent mount for diverter and hose ends? Do I try to mount the diverter on the inner arm of the loader, that's some thick a$$ steel. Am I missing anything? I have plenty of butt connectors and shrink tubeing. And I got a few wrenches.

Referring back to picture 1 in the initial post is it possible to mount the diverter to the bracket holding the factory outlet mounts. If I mount it there I may be able to cut back on 1 set of hydraulic hoses?

Kennyd, it looks like we could have had this conversation in PM since you're the only one responding. I REALLY do appreciate your help.

Side note does anyone have an opinion on the MTL grapple bucket on eBay? I don't need something providing years of heavy daily service. I'm just a retired weekend warrior trying to clear a few acres.
 

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Ok, correct me if I'm wrong. I buy a diverter kit.

Diverter gets "mounted" somewhere past the 4 factory couplings.

The lines to the dump and curl get to supply the diverter. Outlet 1 from the diverter gets plumbed into dump/curl lines. Outlet 2 gets lines mounted to the center crossbar on the loader frame.

Electric momentary switch gets mounted to joystick below knob unless kit comes with a joystick. Switch gets power from battery or other live circuit. Switch also has cable which wires to diverter valve to shut off outlet 1 and diverting hydraulic flow to outlet 2.

Job compete, go play?

Yes, you got it! It is that simple...see attached schematic, any diverter will be plumbed similarly to this.

What kind and size fittings?
The couplers are 1/2" ISO 5675 "AG" style. We sell them as do other places. The fitting to the hardlines are probably ORFS (o ring face seal) bit you will need to learn some about different fittings and how to measure them.

What size (diameter and pressure - length will vary based on mount location) hydraulic lines do I need? (3 sets, 1 from factory outlet to diverter, 1 from diverter back to dump/curl and 1 from diverter to the crossbar)
3/8" for the feed hoses, and 3/8" or 1/4" for the two the front since your only operating a small cylinder. I'm getting a hose making setup online so I may be able to help some with those too.


Where do I get a decent mount for diverter and hose ends? Do I try to mount the diverter on the inner arm of the loader, that's some thick a$$ steel. Am I missing anything? I have plenty of butt connectors and shrink tubeing. And I got a few wrenches.
You need to fab the diverter mounts, none are off-the-shelf. Some kits come with generic ones (did you see the one I linked?) I have a simple solution for the front using a tubing clamp.

Referring back to picture 1 in the initial post is it possible to mount the diverter to the bracket holding the factory outlet mounts. If I mount it there I may be able to cut back on 1 set of hydraulic hoses?
You would generally mount the diverter on the loader somewhere, like on the right side upright. It becomes part of the loader that way.

Kennyd, it looks like we could have had this conversation in PM since you're the only one responding. I REALLY do appreciate your help.
No PM's please...no one else benefits from that. MAYBE someones else will reply...but :banghead:

Side note does anyone have an opinion on the MTL grapple bucket on eBay? I don't need something providing years of heavy daily service. I'm just a retired weekend warrior trying to clear a few acres.
No opinion, they are popular because they are CHEAP. Probably OK for your 4-series, but they are to heavy for the smaller tractors even though many "think" they are OK, they are blinded by the cost.
See comments above please...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WoW, I am smarter than I look ....

One more question, do you ever sleep? Your responses are always quick and you reply on a ton of threads, here and at least one other forum....and you run a business and have another job.

Thank you again....
 

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WoW, I am smarter than I look ....

One more question, do you ever sleep? Your responses are always quick and you reply on a ton of threads, here and at least one other forum....and you run a business and have another job.

Thank you again....
Not much...:laugh:
 

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I bought a DSV-62-08-12 from Bailey for my diverter setup.

Not sure if it's okay to link to another forum but here is how I did my 4310.

Links are fine as long as they are relevant, I saw you thread on TBN too. My only issue with your setup is the mounting location, it's very vulnerable there and quite frankly looks bad in my opinion. Putting the valve inside the right upright hides it, and there is plenty of room.
 

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Do you have any rear SCV(s)? If not, do you for see a need for any?

If you do, I would use it for the grapple. I would also add quick couplers to the mount for loader quick couplers (for easier loader removal).


If you need to use the rear SCV, unhook the grapple lines and secure them out of the way.

It's not really doing three things at once. I use a rear SCV for my grapple. My SCV has detents that allow me to move the lever to detent and let go of the lever. The grapple either opens or closes (what ever was chosen) and when it is either opened or closed the lever pops out of detent. I am usually changing gears (direction, wish the 2030 had a reverser), not operating the loader.

If you do not have any rear SCV(s) and do not want any, get the diverter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Zebra,

The thought, rear services, had crossed my mind but I really don't see a need for them. On previous tractors I had power beyond but I no longer have/need/want a log splitter..... Went with a pellet stove. My 3-point chipper and backhoe have their own hydraulic supply with PTO driven pump. Thanks for the thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Kennyd et. al. I was just looking through the extra/spare parts I had from the kit for relocating my selective control valve. I was looking for something to mount the diverter on to use existing holes and pieces. A) I think I found something useful after minor modifications. B) HOLY COW, hadn't realized it but apparently both setups (original and revised location for the SCV) use the same valve. Instead of breaking out the new one they used the existing one, just moved it. So I have a brand new LVA21358 SCV. I had no idea it's value (I thought I had paid less for the entire kit) What is the best, most profitable way to pass this on to someone who can use it? eBay, Craigslist, for sale on the forums? All 3 at once...
 

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Kennyd et. al. I was just looking through the extra/spare parts I had from the kit for relocating my selective control valve. I was looking for something to mount the diverter on to use existing holes and pieces. A) I think I found something useful after minor modifications. B) HOLY COW, hadn't realized it but apparently both setups (original and revised location for the SCV) use the same valve. Instead of breaking out the new one they used the existing one, just moved it. So I have a brand new LVA21358 SCV. I had no idea it's value (I thought I had paid less for the entire kit) What is the best, most profitable way to pass this on to someone who can use it? eBay, Craigslist, for sale on the forums? All 3 at once...
I would start with the forum. Help a member here first.

Craigslist can set you up for thieves/scammers, only come to see what you have, unless you meet somewhere, or want to send a too big check and have send the part and the difference.

Ebay AND PayPal take a cut 10% and 3%, but a larger buyer pool.
 

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Links are fine as long as they are relevant, I saw you thread on TBN too. My only issue with your setup is the mounting location, it's very vulnerable there and quite frankly looks bad in my opinion. Putting the valve inside the right upright hides it, and there is plenty of room.
All different ways to cook a goose.

I keep my trees limbed up to clear my canopy so I have little to no chance of damage where I located the valve. Where I put it gave me unobstructed routing of the hoses so I get full range of motion without the risk of chafing.

I did have to reclock the outer hoses to 10 o'clock and I put shorter third function hoses on from the original setup.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
As long as the goose is indeed cooked, not charred on the outside and raw in the middle, gotta get it right.

On that note I found the SCV joystick that came with the new kit. I had put the original back on because the new one is plastic. However when I pulled it out I found a really nice feature. It has this round flat spot that measures about 1.75 inches across. The inside is round and hallow like it was made for a push button. There's even a wire channel. I don't think I've seen a round switch, just oblong with a round button.
 

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That's Deere's newer ergonomic handle, they are great! They often have a switch pack installed like below, but if your handy you can easily add a single momentary switch to operate your diverter. Sounds like it's all coming together for you :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Handy yes, mechanically inclined not so much. I couldn't find that item in your store....I definitely want to get it though.

I'm not real excited or comfortable about building a kit from pieces. The kit from hydraulic store says it's good for tractors up to 50hp. (I'm at 66, 52 at PTO) The volume and pressure are within range. That's why I was leaning toward the Summit. The price from hydraulic store is good too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All,
I'm looking for the round switch (or something like it) if you know a source please link it in.

Also looking at switches I see they're asking normally open/closed. My guess is 50-50 because you're closing one to open another.....

Thanks
 
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