Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to upgrade from a 2520 to possibly a 3 series. I am still on the fence on whether or not the 3 series is big enough for me. My 2 series does most everything I ask of it except I wish I had more loader capacity. I still use it to mow my yard as well as till the garden, run a 5ft brush hog, move dirt, manure, rock, push snow, etc... I also use it to move around pallets of wood pellets which I currently have to break down to about 800-900 pounds so I can stack them. I even move a large round bale from time to time, mainly just to pull it out of the row and flip it up on end so we can pitchfork it to our livestock.

One of the biggest things I am NOT looking forward to is added emission stuff, I know of lots of people that have had nothing but nightmares with it on their diesel trucks and bigger ag equipment which makes me lean towards a 3x20 over 3r.

Any major issues with DPF on the 3r?

What improvements did they make between the two series?

Anything the 3r has over the 3x20 that you can't live without?

How is visibility between the two in cab setup? I have read that the hood may obscure some of the view due to the addition of emission equipment requiring more space under the hood.

On my 2 series I like the visibility and how I can see my pallet fork tips easily, will I give that up on a 3 series?

Is visibility better on the open station vs cab?

Cab would be really nice in temperatures 0 to -20 that we have had recently, but will I lose the ability to talk to bystanders when I am tight places stacking pallets in the shed or that sort of thing? Can the windows on the cab be opened?

Will I be able to continue mowing my yard with a 3 series and cab? Majority of my 2 acres of mowing is all open, only a couple places around a few trees I have to watch my ROPS now, but I have a LX277 AWS that I can use to mow close to the trees with.

A couple of the things I am looking forward to are greater loader capacity and the true electronic cruise.

Thanks for your feedback and input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
714 Posts
The loader on the 3E series might not have the capacity that you need so look into those specs. It's also not easily removable like the 3R. The 3E also doesn't have a mid PTO.

Edit: I read the OP wrong and thought he was talking about new 3 series tractors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Maybe after everyone thaws out from the cold I will get more feedback on the above questions. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,943 Posts
Maybe after everyone thaws out from the cold I will get more feedback on the above questions. :)
3R has a bit more horsepower in some models.
eThrottle, adjustable hydro pedal sensitivity.
Not a lot more that I know of.

Tim
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,867 Posts
I am looking to upgrade from a 2520 to possibly a 3 series. I am still on the fence on whether or not the 3 series is big enough for me. My 2 series does most everything I ask of it except I wish I had more loader capacity. I still use it to mow my yard as well as till the garden, run a 5ft brush hog, move dirt, manure, rock, push snow, etc... I also use it to move around pallets of wood pellets which I currently have to break down to about 800-900 pounds so I can stack them. I even move a large round bale from time to time, mainly just to pull it out of the row and flip it up on end so we can pitchfork it to our livestock.

One of the biggest things I am NOT looking forward to is added emission stuff, I know of lots of people that have had nothing but nightmares with it on their diesel trucks and bigger ag equipment which makes me lean towards a 3x20 over 3r.

Any major issues with DPF on the 3r?
No, not really

What improvements did they make between the two series?
They are virtually the same except for the engines and emission stuff, the cabs are essentially the same.

Anything the 3r has over the 3x20 that you can't live without?
No

How is visibility between the two in cab setup? I have read that the hood may obscure some of the view due to the addition of emission equipment requiring more space under the hood.
Since the 3R has the bigger boxed shaped hood to clear the DPF, front visibility is a lot less especially the using forks. I can see pretty well with my 3720.

On my 2 series I like the visibility and how I can see my pallet fork tips easily, will I give that up on a 3 series?
Somewhat, yes.

Is visibility better on the open station vs cab?
Open, but the hood is still in the way.

Cab would be really nice in temperatures 0 to -20 that we have had recently, but will I lose the ability to talk to bystanders when I am tight places stacking pallets in the shed or that sort of thing? Can the windows on the cab be opened?
Each door opens, as will the back window. It's pressurized cab though, so its really designed to be operated with everything closed. You can add a horn to get peoples attention, thats helpfully.

Will I be able to continue mowing my yard with a 3 series and cab? Majority of my 2 acres of mowing is all open, only a couple places around a few trees I have to watch my ROPS now, but I have a LX277 AWS that I can use to mow close to the trees with.
Many mow with cabbed 3R's, you can get a 60" or 72" mower.

A couple of the things I am looking forward to are greater loader capacity and the true electronic cruise.

Thanks for your feedback and input.
I'll try...see above. Long posts with tons of questions are hard to get lots of replies though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,003 Posts
If you're planning on mowing with this tractor, I'd recommend the drive over deck (autoconnect if you can get it) - regardless of what tractor you end up with. I have an older 3520 that came with a MMM. It's not a drive over deck and it's a major PITA for me to take on and off. Actually, so much of a PITA that it's off permanently now and I mow with a zero turn. :)

I've been really happy with my 3520. The only thing that I ever wish for every now and then is more loader capacity - but I'd probably wish for more loader capacity with a 4-series! If cost isn't an issue and your terrain allows for it, I'd go with a cab if you're going to be doing winter work with it. As far as talking to your helpers while you're moving stuff, maybe a set of little handheld walkie-talkies would do the trick.

Can't give any opinions on anything emissions related.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I have a 2014 3033R Cab and love it. The cab is basically all glass and visibility is no problem whatsoever. The whole rear window swings open pretty wide from the top, the left door has a gas cylinder that will keep it fully open if you want, the right door does not and always wants to close.

I think a 3 series cab is too big and heavy to mow a yard with, but I already had a M-F GC2400 for mowing lawn. My used 3033 came with a drive over MM mower, and I had to try it out of course, and found several things I didn’t care for at all. Yes, it was easy to put on and take off, but the mower hangs down way too low when fully raised, and the height of cut isn’t near what JD says it is. I like to cut my lawn at about 3.5“ and could barely get that with the MM. Also, it is hard to get in and out of the cab with the MM on. I ended up selling the mower, because I use this tractor for bush hogging mostly. 5’ bush hog.

The ”Load Match” is great, cruise control is nice, I use it snow blowing, just set the cruise so the mid PTO speed stays around 2100rpm and don’t need to have foot on hydro pedal. I do not use it bush hogging however.

My 3033 does not have a turbo or DEF. It does have a DPF and as long as you’re using the tractor as it should be used, mostly full throttle for PTO speeds, you don’t even notice DPF regen at all. I bought mine with 32 hours on it and now have 484 hours and have only seen regen twice on my dash! Now it is possible I missed a couple, but what I am stressing, it is a seamless operation.

Hopefully this answers some of your trepidation and questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'll try...see above. Long posts with tons of questions are hard to get lots of replies though.
Appreciate your feedback on this. I am really torn between keeping the ability to mow my yard with the tractor and loader capacity. Ideally I should probably buy a 4 series and then have a zero turn for mowing the yard. :) Sounds like differences between the 3r and 3X20 are minimal. If I can run across a good low houred 3X20 I will probably go that route, but it is hard to turn down 0% interest for 60 months. I have run the neighbors 6150M and it has DPF and long as the tractor is being worked I haven't noticed the DPF, have had it cycle on me a few times when using it for loader work, however he has had to replace the turbo on it with less then 2000 hours, kept throwing a code all the time and it had to deal with the emissions stuff on it. Think it was in the $2k range to replace and was not covered by JD. I do like how when it is started in the building there are no fumes and it is extremely quiet.

Is there a difference in the sound of tractor, such as one quieter then the other inside the cab?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I have a 2014 3033R Cab and love it. The cab is basically all glass and visibility is no problem whatsoever. The whole rear window swings open pretty wide from the top, the left door has a gas cylinder that will keep it fully open if you want, the right door does not and always wants to close.

I think a 3 series cab is too big and heavy to mow a yard with, but I already had a M-F GC2400 for mowing lawn. My used 3033 came with a drive over MM mower, and I had to try it out of course, and found several things I didn’t care for at all. Yes, it was easy to put on and take off, but the mower hangs down way too low when fully raised, and the height of cut isn’t near what JD says it is. I like to cut my lawn at about 3.5“ and could barely get that with the MM. Also, it is hard to get in and out of the cab with the MM on. I ended up selling the mower, because I use this tractor for bush hogging mostly. 5’ bush hog.

The ”Load Match” is great, cruise control is nice, I use it snow blowing, just set the cruise so the mid PTO speed stays around 2100rpm and don’t need to have foot on hydro pedal. I do not use it bush hogging however.

My 3033 does not have a turbo or DEF. It does have a DPF and as long as you’re using the tractor as it should be used, mostly full throttle for PTO speeds, you don’t even notice DPF regen at all. I bought mine with 32 hours on it and now have 484 hours and have only seen regen twice on my dash! Now it is possible I missed a couple, but what I am stressing, it is a seamless operation.

Hopefully this answers some of your trepidation and questions.
I wasn't aware of the MMM issues such as mow height, thanks for the reply.

Load match sounds like a nice feature with cruise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If you're planning on mowing with this tractor, I'd recommend the drive over deck (autoconnect if you can get it) - regardless of what tractor you end up with. I have an older 3520 that came with a MMM. It's not a drive over deck and it's a major PITA for me to take on and off. Actually, so much of a PITA that it's off permanently now and I mow with a zero turn. :)

I've been really happy with my 3520. The only thing that I ever wish for every now and then is more loader capacity - but I'd probably wish for more loader capacity with a 4-series! If cost isn't an issue and your terrain allows for it, I'd go with a cab if you're going to be doing winter work with it. As far as talking to your helpers while you're moving stuff, maybe a set of little handheld walkie-talkies would do the trick.

Can't give any opinions on anything emissions related.
I wasn't aware the the earlier 3X20 models didn't have the drive over deck, I just thought they did since my 2520 has it. Was the offered in that series and how does one tell for sure if it has it or not. Do you have the MMM height issues that the 3rs have?

What is your loader capacity? Can it lift up a 2000# pallet? Not wanting to get very high off ground, just want to be able to move one around from time to time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,200 Posts
You are going to need a 4 series for a 2000# pallet and that is stretching it. I mow my yard with my 4066R and a 110 inch RFM, so it can easily be done. And that is with R4 tires. While R3 turf tires would be better, yard mowing is only part of what I do with it, so the R4 tires are the better all around compromise. I also have a 10ft 3pt Rhino brush hog for the heavy duty stuff, plus many other implements.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
@offroad00 As long as you have loaded tires and rear ballast you won't have any problem lifting 2000# to move it around. A 320R loader is rated to lift 2125# at the pivot to 59".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
You are going to need a 4 series for a 2000# pallet and that is stretching it. I mow my yard with my 4066R and a 110 inch RFM, so it can easily be done. And that is with R4 tires. While R3 turf tires would be better, yard mowing is only part of what I do with it, so the R4 tires are the better all around compromise. I also have a 10ft 3pt Rhino brush hog for the heavy duty stuff, plus many other implements.

Dave
Everyone keeps bursting my bubble. I like the maneuverability of my 2520 now and it is nice that it doesn't tear up the lawn as well. I may just keep borrowing the neighbors 6150M or skid loader when I need more loader capacity since there doesn't appear to be a one tractor fits all. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
@offroad00 As long as you have loaded tires and rear ballast you won't have any problem lifting 2000# to move it around. A 320R loader is rated to lift 2125# at the pivot to 59".
Thanks for the information!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,200 Posts
I could barely lift this hunk of concrete. I doubt a 3 series could lift it. The 110 inch RFM provides 1500# ballast.

Dave

776177
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,867 Posts
@offroad00 As long as you have loaded tires and rear ballast you won't have any problem lifting 2000# to move it around. A 320R loader is rated to lift 2125# at the pivot to 59".

Thanks for the information!

But the load is never at the pivot point...
The 300cx I have is the same as the 320R with different stickers, and it is not picking up 2K in any real world scenario.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mark02tj

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,200 Posts
And with forks, a lot of that load is 4ft or more out there.

Dave

Sent from my Samsung Note using Tapatalk Pro
 
  • Like
Reactions: mark02tj

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Everyone keeps bursting my bubble. I like the maneuverability of my 2520 now and it is nice that it doesn't tear up the lawn as well. I may just keep borrowing the neighbors 6150M or skid loader when I need more loader capacity since there doesn't appear to be a one tractor fits all. :)
That really is the problem, “there doesn’t appear to be a one tractor fits all”!
Even with just 10 acres, I have a relative small tractor and a smaller one! Both have respective jobs to do, and do them very well. My M-F GC 2400 replaced a Craftsman mower and will last me out! Both have easily removable loaders of different sizes which come in handy.
Don‘t give up hope yet, look around, you may come up with the perfect tractor yet!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the encouragement, I will keep looking for my unicorn. I keep telling the wife I want a mower with a cab come retirement and the rate things are going that will be further out then I hope so I have plenty of time to find one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: shyoung1
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top