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4 wheeler won't run

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This isn't a Deere but you all are always so helpful I figure you'll be able to help here too.

I have a Suzuki Eiger Quadrunner 400 4x4, no idea what year but I would guess early 2000's. It has been running fine until I let it sit for around a month without using it. I only run ethanol free gas in it.

It is strange because it cranks just fine and will idle just fine with the chock on. I'll let it sit at full chock for about 1-2 minutes and then I can turn the chock down and it still idles just fine. As soon as I even remotely start to press the throttle it dies. If I back off the throttle is starts to idle fine again. It will idle for as long as I let it sit there. But as soon as I give it the throttle it dies and starts to blow smoke.

Like I said I only run ethanol free gas in it and I changed the spark plug to see if that would help and that just helped it crank even better which wasn't really an issue anyway.

Any thoughts about what the issue is? I'm assuming the carburetor which if it is, what can I do to clean it up? Or with the age, do I just need to get a new one?

Thanks in advance!
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Before tearing into the carbI would replace the fuel lines. On an older machine they can deteriorate. Even if they look OK when the carb calls for fuel they can suck themselves shut which it sounds like may be happening.

On the same frame of thought - how about the bottom of the gas tank? Is there a screen where the fuel pickup is that could be blocked?
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Replace the fuel filter too - but, what I really think is....your float is stuck. It is stuck at a level to idle but as you accelerate your throttle it will not allow more fuel in fast enough. Float is stuck or just not moving free enough.
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Before tearing into the carbI would replace the fuel lines. On an older machine they can deteriorate. Even if they look OK when the carb calls for fuel they can suck themselves shut which it sounds like may be happening.

On the same frame of thought - how about the bottom of the gas tank? Is there a screen where the fuel pickup is that could be blocked?
Some good ideas. I'll check into it.
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Replace the fuel filter too - but, what I really think is....your float is stuck. It is stuck at a level to idle but as you accelerate your throttle it will not allow more fuel in fast enough. Float is stuck or just not moving free enough.
What do you mean by my float is stuck? I'm not very savvy when it comes to engine repair.
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Does this only happen when it's in gear? What if you rev it in neutral? Do you have a brake sticking somewhere that's causing an issue when it's in gear only?
I had a similar problem with my 4 wheeler last year (2004 Yamaha). I have always used gasoline with Sta Bil additive and had never had any problems. It would only start and run with the choke on. It would cough and die when the choke was turned off - even when warmed up. I assumed some of the carb orifices were gummed up. After some research, I found a fuel system cleaner that was supposed to be superior to other cleaners. It was not cheap but I gave it a try. The product was Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner. Directions said to use 1 oz. per gallon of fuel. I estimated the amount of fuel in the tank and added the Techron. I ran the engine for a while to let the fuel with additive go through the carb. I shut it off and let it sit for a day. After a few days, it started running better. I used this additive on the next tank of fuel also. The 4 wheeler has run like a new one every since the 2nd tank of fuel with additive was consumed. I now add some of this additive a couple times a year.
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If the carb has a big plug on the bottom of bowl....Remove it......Let some gas flow through and out.

Sounds to me like the primary jet is plugged........its the one just under the plug..6mm socket will remove it if this is a Mikuni type carb. Sometimes you can loosen hose clamps on both ends of carb and twist it to get better access.
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If the carb has a big plug on the bottom of bowl....Remove it......Let some gas flow through and out.

Sounds to me like the primary jet is plugged........its the one just under the plug..6mm socket will remove it if this is a Mikuni type carb. Sometimes you can loosen hose clamps on both ends of carb and twist it to get better access.
In my personal experience, jets don't "really" plug - the passages through the carb body do. The only way to get a carb back into proper operating condition is to remove it, tear it down -completely- soak the parts that you can in a carb cleaner (including the body), use a very fine gauge wire to probe the passages, and then blow everything out with a ton of compressed air.

If your jet has accumulated some gunk, toss and replace it. Way simpler than trying to get it completely clean. Once it's back up and running, run a few ounces per tankful of gas of SeaFoam until it runs properly again.
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In my personal experience, jets don't "really" plug - the passages through the carb body do. The only way to get a carb back into proper operating condition is to remove it, tear it down -completely- soak the parts that you can in a carb cleaner (including the body), use a very fine gauge wire to probe the passages, and then blow everything out with a ton of compressed air.

If your jet has accumulated some gunk, toss and replace it. Way simpler than trying to get it completely clean. Once it's back up and running, run a few ounces per tankful of gas of SeaFoam until it runs properly again.

I'm a single cyl 2 stroke biker.
Carbs were simple and still are.....I can let mine sit for years and be going again in minimal time.
Gas is sucked from the bottom......a single drop of water will plug the main jet. Drain bowl. Tip bike both ways to clear over flows...its always worked for me.


Muli cyl 4 strokes are a pita.......Dealing with wrestling 4 carbs out of some huge Kawi or GW...No thanks.
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I'm a single cyl 2 stroke biker.
Carbs were simple and still are.....I can let mine sit for years and be going again in minimal time.
Gas is sucked from the bottom......a single drop of water will plug the main jet. Drain bowl. Tip bike both ways to clear over flows...its always worked for me.


Muli cyl 4 strokes are a pita.......Dealing with wrestling 4 carbs out of some huge Kawi or GW...No thanks.
Yeah, been through a lot of similar stuff myself with all of the 2-stroke snowmobiles.

Yes, water is a biggie that can really screw things up easily. To clear it fully, if there is water, you have to completely drain the tank as well, pull the carb bowl plug, then crank the machine to get everything out of the lines.

When I was commenting about the plugged jets, I was specifically referring to debris as opposed to something like water that can block it. Mikuni makes a great carb because they're serviceable. Had far more than my share of carbs off of my and friends' machines on my workbench at various points. With multi-cylinder, the biggest issue is to ensure they're correctly synced when reinstalling them. It's actually fairly easy to do if you understand the basic operating principles but everyone makes it into brain surgery.... lol
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We just had a Artic cat do weird things it would die then start back up and run fine for a few minutes then die again. It turned out to be the fuel pickup in the gas tank had plugged Up.

This was my dad’s machine. He at first thought it was the gas filter, then thought it was the gas line getting sucked shut. It could be something in the carb.
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Does this only happen when it's in gear? What if you rev it in neutral? Do you have a brake sticking somewhere that's causing an issue when it's in gear only?
This happens when it's neutral as well. If I try to shift it into gear it dies.
I had a similar problem with my 4 wheeler last year (2004 Yamaha). I have always used gasoline with Sta Bil additive and had never had any problems. It would only start and run with the choke on. It would cough and die when the choke was turned off - even when warmed up. I assumed some of the carb orifices were gummed up. After some research, I found a fuel system cleaner that was supposed to be superior to other cleaners. It was not cheap but I gave it a try. The product was Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner. Directions said to use 1 oz. per gallon of fuel. I estimated the amount of fuel in the tank and added the Techron. I ran the engine for a while to let the fuel with additive go through the carb. I shut it off and let it sit for a day. After a few days, it started running better. I used this additive on the next tank of fuel also. The 4 wheeler has run like a new one every since the 2nd tank of fuel with additive was consumed. I now add some of this additive a couple times a year.
Even if it's not cheap, it's probably cheaper than a trip to a repair shop and definitely cheaper than a new one! I'll check it out.
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If the carb has a big plug on the bottom of bowl....Remove it......Let some gas flow through and out.

Sounds to me like the primary jet is plugged........its the one just under the plug..6mm socket will remove it if this is a Mikuni type carb. Sometimes you can loosen hose clamps on both ends of carb and twist it to get better access.
I'm ignorant here so excuse the stupid question, but I'm not really sure what you're telling me to do? I get the part about the plug, I can look for that. What's the primary jet? Will I find that once I pull the plug out? What's the purpose of taking the jet out? Will I be cleaning it? carb cleaner? Sorry if this is basic stuff. Thanks!
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In my personal experience, jets don't "really" plug - the passages through the carb body do. The only way to get a carb back into proper operating condition is to remove it, tear it down -completely- soak the parts that you can in a carb cleaner (including the body), use a very fine gauge wire to probe the passages, and then blow everything out with a ton of compressed air.

If your jet has accumulated some gunk, toss and replace it. Way simpler than trying to get it completely clean. Once it's back up and running, run a few ounces per tankful of gas of SeaFoam until it runs properly again.
I looked on YouTube at a video of taking the carb apart and cleaning it, and it looks complicated. The parts were TINY!
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This happens when it's neutral as well. If I try to shift it into gear it dies.
Your comment seems to be contradictory. If it happens in neutral OR in gear, I'm not following why you mentioned that shifting into gear causes it to die?

If the motor bogs down badly under throttle application, even when in neutral, then there would seem to be some sort of fuel supply problem. Many times, there is a fuel pump of sorts and a bad diaphragm in those can be the cause of an issue like this.
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Remove plug ands let some gas drain out.
Any dirt or moisture will get flushed out.

Lets keep it simple and just try the above........

Removeing the jet would be purely for inspection. Its a small brass part with a tiny hole through it that can possibly get plugged. The "needle" attatched to the slide is what meters the flow of gas up through this jet as you manipulate the throttle control.
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Your comment seems to be contradictory. If it happens in neutral OR in gear, I'm not following why you mentioned that shifting into gear causes it to die?

If the motor bogs down badly under throttle application, even when in neutral, then there would seem to be some sort of fuel supply problem. Many times, there is a fuel pump of sorts and a bad diaphragm in those can be the cause of an issue like this.
The motor seems to run fine at ideal. If I give it throttle in neutral it dies. If I give it throttle in gear it dies. Sometimes, even just shifting it into gear causes it to die before I can even start to press the throttle.
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Remove plug ands let some gas drain out.
Any dirt or moisture will get flushed out.

Lets keep it simple and just try the above........

Removeing the jet would be purely for inspection. Its a small brass part with a tiny hole through it that can possibly get plugged. The "needle" attatched to the slide is what meters the flow of gas up through this jet as you manipulate the throttle control.
I'll see if I can get to this and if this clears it up. Thanks!
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