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Discussion Starter #1
I am not near my tractor, nor will i see it for 2 months :(

I tried the Parts websites and it *seems* the 4M/R share a drawbar but the 52 and 66 may use a different one as the part number only listed 4M/R....

Anyway, I need the size of the large hole in the end - I want to get a shackle for it and want to know what size pin I can use - if you have the thickness that would be awesome as well :)

Has anyone tried one of the twisted shackle mounts? Never seen one before i was googling trying to get this dimension - they look pretty cool - do they work?
 

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It is bigger than 1 inch. Just get a 1 inch pin and be done with it.

Dave
 
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It is bigger than 1 inch. Just get a 1 inch pin and be done with it.

Dave
If the hole in the drawbar is 1 5/16, I'd get a 1 .25" pin to have closer tolerance and lessen the chance of "wobbling/warbling" the hole :dunno:
 
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If the hole in the drawbar is 1 5/16, I'd get a 1 .25" pin to have closer tolerance and lessen the chance of "wobbling/warbling" the hole :dunno:

The problem with getting too big of a pin, is that you lose the capability of being able to twist the attachment separate from the tractor, unless the attachment has a much bigger hole in the tongue. One of them needs a bigger hole to allow rotational twisting.


Dave
 

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The problem with getting too big of a pin, is that you lose the capability of being able to twist the attachment separate from the tractor, unless the attachment has a much bigger hole in the tongue. One of them needs a bigger hole to allow rotational twisting.


Dave
Most big implements I used to pull quite a few years back always had large line up tongues for drawbar pulling, hence when operating them they bang forward and aft against the pin. So having a loose pin is not good IMHO.
 

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Most big implements I used to pull quite a few years back always had large line up tongues for drawbar pulling, hence when operating them they bang forward and aft against the pin. So having a loose pin is not good IMHO.

I fully understand that, but usually they are pulling against the slack. You still need to allow for the rotational forces.

Dave
 

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I have used a twisted shackle for 30 years,, but, only with under 20 HP tractors,,
That twisted shackle looks wimpy,,, to me,,
I purchased this twisted shackle (7/8" version) for my 3046R. It looks suspiciously similar to the JD PM18290 twisted shackle. It's heavy and definitely plenty strong. While not a big deal, it is nice being able to just drop a chain straight down through the shackle opening.

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Discussion Starter #10
I purchased this twisted shackle (7/8" version) for my 3046R. It looks suspiciously similar to the JD PM18290 twisted shackle. It's heavy and definitely plenty strong. While not a big deal, it is nice being able to just drop a chain straight down through the shackle opening.
That is the exact one I was looking at, just the 1" version, the JD version is $75 and the Koch version $21 - both rated at 25K

I am not sure but 25,000# WLL might be overkill for the guy using the 20HP tractor and if I ever tested that type of load on my 4 series i would probably destroy a TON of tractor parts long before that clevis
 

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I fully understand that, but usually they are pulling against the slack. You still need to allow for the rotational forces.

Dave
I don't see where axis y or x make any difference, the undersized and the right size pin will still have force against it with the drawbar. You simply move the tractor a skosh to release the pressure and remove the pin. We must have differing opinions and will leave it at that.:flag_of_truce:
 
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